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The 

Story of Arizona 



BY 

WILL H. ROBIXSON 

Author of "The Man from Yesterday" "The 

Golden Palace of Neverland," "The 

Knotted Cord," Etc. 



ILLUSTRATED 



THE BERRYHILL COMPANY 

PHOEXIX, ARIZONA 
Publishers 






Copyrighted, 1919 

BY 

THE BERRYHILL COMPANY 

All rights reserved 



flpK 30isia 



^ 



i\' 



\ 



¥ 



HAMMOND PRESS 

W, B. CONKEY COMPANY 

CHICAOO 



©CI.A51551 i 



TO THE 

PATRIOTIC MEN OF ARIZONA 

WHO IN THIS GRAVE CRISIS OF THE WORLD'S HISTORY, 
THOUGH COUNTING THE COST YET WITH EYES EVER 
EAGER AND HEARTS FULL OF HIGH PURPOSE, HAVE 
CROSSED CONTINENT AND SEA AND TODAY ARE WRITING 
ON THE BATTLEFIELDS OP FRANCE WHAT MAY WELL BE 
THE MOST GliORIOUS PAGE OF THE STATE'S HISTORY, 
THIS BOOK IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. OCTOBER, 1918. 




i^'^%#St.*r>f^"'^l^ 









THE OCATILLA 

Elcliiiig liy Wallac L. DcWnlf 



/ 



/si'X 



IT. 

III. 

IV. 

V. 

VI. 

VII. 

VIII. 

IX. 
X. 

XI. 

XII. 

XIII. 

XIV. 

XV. 

XVI. 

XVII. 

XVIII. 

XIX. 

XX. 



XXI. 



CONTENTS 4y 

House and Canal Builders of the Desert- 
Cliff Dwellei-s of the Uplands - - - - 13 
The Coming of the Spaniards - - - - 33 

Spanish Mission Days 53 

The Arrival of the Americans - - - - 77 

The War with Mexico 86 

The Boundary Survey 97 

The Gadsden Purchase ------ 103 

Mining and Transportation from the Gadsden 
Purchase to the Civil War - - - - 113 

Attempts to Establish Territorial Government - 122 
Filibustei's in Mexico — War Department 

Camels - 127 

The Vengeance of Cochise ----- 133 

The Civil War ------- 139 

Prospecting Parties in Civil War Times - - 152 
Arizona a Political Entity ----- 157 

Military and the Indians ------ 183 

Saloons and "Bad Men"— The Bogus Baron of 
the Colorados ------- 223 

Transportation After the War— Pack-trains, 

Stages and Sixteen-mule Freighters - - 244 
Arizona Mines After the Civil War - - - 250 

Labor 287 

Tilling the Soil— The Roosevelt Reservoir— 
Verde Reservoir Sites— The Laguna Proj- 
ect— In-igation Resources of Arizona- 
Crops- Cotton Growing— Stock Raising- 
Ostriches— Bison 296 

Churches and Schools— The Mormons— The 
Restoration of San Xavier— Other Churches 
— Y. M. C. A.— Schools— The State Univer- 
sity—Modem Indians and Indian Schools - 323 

5 



6 CONTENTS 

XXII, The Spanish- American War— The Rough 

Riders 346 

XXin. Arizona at Last a State— Anthem, Mower 

and Fla^ 351 

XXIV. Scenic Arizona— The Grand Canyon— Auto- 
mobile Roads— Hotels 367 

XXV. Arizona Cities of Today— Tucson-Phoenix— 

Prescott—Bisbee— Douglas— Other Towns - 379 
XXVI. Arizona's Part in the World's War - - - 403 
XXVII. Arizona Plant Life (Written in collaboration 

with John J. Thorber, A. M.) - - - - 416 
XXVIII. Some Arizona Beasts and Birds - - - 436 



PREFACE 

AS every one knows, the real purpose of a 
preface to a history is to give the author 
an opportunity — quite casually, of course — 
to toss modest floral tributes at himself as he tells 
you not only what a Matchless Volume he has just 
written, but as well calls attention to the erudition 
employed by himself in going only to original 
sources for his information, and in so doing con- 
sulting freely the works of Confucius, Tatistchev 
and Sheherazade — all in their original tongues. 
If this is done with sufiicient dash and elan, as 
the gentle reader holds the M. V. in her hands, 
tears of grief will gather in her left eye at the 
thought of all the people dead and gone who will 
never have the opportunity of reading the M. V., 
while in her right eye crystal drops of joy will 
glisten over the feast of reason that will soon be 
hers. 

Now, as to our erudition as the author of The 
Story of Arizona, permit us to say that the lan- 
guages employed by the early chroniclers of the 
Southwest were Spanish, Injun and Mediaeval 
Arizonese. Just to show our familiarity with the 
liquid vowels of Castile we here modestly state 
that we can remark in Spanish, "The shoes of our 
uncle's cousin are tv/o sizes too large to be worn 
by our brother-in-law's stepson," with all the grace 



8 PREFACE 

of a Cervantes. "Me hace V. el favor de pasarme 
el chili con came," as De Tornos so truly says. In 
Injun we can call to a Pima as we meet him in 
the road, "Pap t' hay!" as nonchalantly as a Salt 
River missionary, and when it comes to Arizonese, 
we look only with sadness upon the tenderfoot 
who calls a reata a lariat and thinks a remuda is 
a new Hooverized war bread. 

If there is any doubt in the minds of the gentle 
reader about our access to Original Sources we 
can only say that when we arrived in Arizona, 
John Hance was still engaged in digging the Grand 
Canyon and Herbert Patrick had barely completed 
the hump on Camelback Mountain, from which 
it will be seen that at least a part of what has been 
here indited has the authority of contemporaneous 
observation; as for the rest, we have spared our- 
selves no labor in always going to the fact factory 
for facts. 

While we may seem to be wasting a good deal 
of high-priced paper on this preface, we must say 
that in trying to compress the events of nearly four 
centuries into a single volume we found that our 
space would not permit any elaborate system of 
notes and citations. Many of our sources of 
information will be found in the bibliography con- 
tained herein. We also obtained much valuable 
information from bulletins issued by different 
branches of the University of Arizona and the 
United States Forestry Service, as well as from 
the proceedings of the State Legislatures and from 
different Arizona officials, including the Secretary 



PREFACE 9 

of State, the Superintendent of Public Instruction, 
the Adjutant General and the State Game Warden. 

To come down to the primary purpose of this 
M. v., while we have seriously endeavored to make 
the story a comprehensive, if brief, survey of the 
evolution of the land of Father Kino into the Com- 
monwealth we now know as Arizona, making it in 
a way a pageant of cowled friars, steel-capped 
Spanish conquistadores, painted Indians, bewhis- 
kered miners, swaggering cowboys, and finally, the 
prophetic-eyed reclaimers of the desert, its first 
object is to give entertainment to the reader — 
something, after all, that should not wholly be 
lost sight of on the part of the author. 

Also, we have kept in mind that when Mrs. 
Emerson de Moliere Browning, of Phoenix, or 
Mrs. Many Horses, of the Navajo Reservation, is 
called upon to prepare a "paper" to be read before 
her respective woman's club, she has the right to 
expect that when she turns to The Story of Ari- 
zona she may do so in the unwavering faith that 
there is an authority somewhere for all that has 
been set down therein. In retelling stories that 
have more than one version, like the account of 
the Oatman tragedy, the killing of Mangas Colo- 
rado or the Penole Treaty, we have used the one 
that seemed to bear the most evidence of accuracy. 

Under the weight of our responsibilities to 
Mrs. Many Horses, we regret that we have had to 
be, at times, statistical; that in spite of our most 
stringent quarantine regulations, figures and dry 
facts would creep in. In consequence, while there 



10 PREFACE 

are chapters that even we are willing to admit are 
not wholly without interest, there are others that 
read in places with the jocund sprightliness of an 
abstract of title. We would like to mark these 
arid spots with danger signals, but our skeptical 
publisher fears we might get them in the wrong 
place, and comfortably assures us that the reader 
will find them soon enough as it is. 

Finally, if we should be accused of putting 
more emphasis upon the picturesque than upon 
the ponderous, of spending more time with Padre 
Garces and the young man who dropped his sweet- 
heart into the muddy waters of an irrigation ditch 
than with him who sits in the seat of the mighty, 
we can only say that we never intended writing a 
Who's Who. We'd lots rather be accused of veil- 
ing Who's Interesting — and vital. 

It would probably be suspected, even if we 
didn't mention it, that another pen than ours had 
a prominent part in writing the chapter on Arizona 
Plant Life. Personally, our relations with trees 
and flowers are entirely friendly. We can tell a 
pine from an oak at a glance, know the bank 
where the Wild Thyme runs her overdraft, and 
have watched beds of poppies metamorphose dull 
brown earth to a cloth of gold for many springs; 
but when it comes to introducing the public to the 
plants of the State, not only by their nicknames, 
like "Johnny Jump-ups" or "Owls' Clover," but 
also occasionally dropping such awful noms de 
flora as Baccharis sarathroides, just to show one's 
familiarity with the language of the horticultural 
Horace, we know it is time for us to call for help. 



PREFACE 11 

Now, we believe that when one is looking for a 
dentist or a photographer to operate on him, the 
best is none too good. We also believe that when 
one has found one that can keep him from looking 
like either Mutt or Jeff — or can fill an aching void 
with concentrated comfort — he has discovered a 
blessing straight from the gods. That is the way 
we felt when Professor Thornber said he would 
help us out. 

If John J. Thornber, A. M., needed an introduc- 
tion to nature lovers of our section of out-of-doors, 
we would simply say that he is the professor of 
botany at the University of Arizona and "the" pre- 
eminent authority on his specialty in the South- 
west. As that isn't necessary, we will only mention 
that he is the kind of a man who likes above all 
things to get out into the wilds during vacation 
where he will sit down with his shrubs and plants 
and hold conversation with them as he does with 
his students in classroom. Do they reciprocate 
his affection? Do they? Why, within twenty-four 
hours they are telling him how the four-o'clocks 
managed with the advanced time; how Miss Iris 
Douglasiana got overheated and almost had a 
sunstroke; and how Old Man Cactus got his feet 
too wet during the last rain and had dreadful 
spinal rheumatism. 

So you see. Gentle Reader, with an authority 
like this, statements mentioned in the Plant chap- 
ter have upon them a most incontrovertible seal 
of authority. WILL H. ROBINSON. 

Chandler, Arizona, 
June 30, 1918. 




W ^4 



g I 
O 5 



The Story of Arizona 



Chapter I 

HOUSE AND CANAL BUILDERS OF 
THE DESERT— CLIFF DWELLERS 
OF THE UPLANDS 

THE recorded history of primitive man begins 
not with the written word or page, but 
when he fashions and leaves behind him 
weapons, tools and utensils of a time-resisting sub- 
stance, or protects his dead by interment, so 
within the confines of the territory now known as 
Arizona the earliest people of whom we have any 
real knowledge are the builders of canals and 
adobe houses in the Salt and Gila valleys, the cavt 
and cliff dwellers and the stone house builders of 
the highlands of the State, and while their history 
is of necessity largely veiled from the investigator, 
still by study the ethnologist has learned much 
concerning their habits, and finally has been able 
to make shrewd conjectures as to what ultimately 
became of them. 

In spite of the extravagant theories of imagina- 
tive romancers who would have us believe that 
these folk possessed a culture comparable to that 

13 



14 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

of Nineveh or Philae, we must keep in mind that 
they were Indians, and although they attained a 
civilization that was far above that of the savage 
tribes surrounding them, yet theirs were the lim- 
ited lives necessitated by an existence in an age of 
stone. 

Nearly all of these ancient people were farmers. 
In the lower Salt and Gila River valleys, on ac- 
count of the aridity of the climate, they raised their 
crops by irrigation. According to surveys made by 
Herbert R. Patrick, James C. Goodwin and others, 
they constructed in the Salt River Valley 150 miles 
of main irrigating canals (in one place through 
solid rock), besides the necessary lateral ditches. 
These canals received their water from Salt River, 
which was raised to the required height by dams, 
doubtless built of brush and rock somewhat like 
those constructed by the early white settlers in the 
same region. 

All canals and their laterals, it must be remem- 
bered, were dug by hand without the aid of either 
horses or metal implements. Stone hoes and 
wooden shovels made of the trunks of ironwood 
trees were perhaps the tools most employed, and 
the dirt was carried away in baskets, probably by 
the women. 

Irrigating thus, these ancient people raised corn, 
beans, cotton and squash, also, probably, different 
native grasses, not as we would for stock, but for 
the edible seeds, which still form part of the 
Indian's diet. The growth of cacti, too, may have 
been stimulated by the application of water, for 



HOUSE AND CANAL BUILDERS 15 

many varieties of fruit from this thorny plant were 
highly prized by the aborigines. Nor must the 
possibilities of the mesquite bean and the squaw- 
berry as articles of diet be forgotten, and the trees 
and bushes which produce them were left on the 
farms to bear valuable crops for the husbandman. 

Fields were cultivated by these primitive farm- 
ers and crops planted with the aid of sharpened 
sticks fashioned, as were the shovels, with the stone 
ax, assisted perhaps with fire. In addition to the 
more temporal dwellings made of reeds and brush 
with thatched roofs which housed some of the 
farmers on or near their own fields, they had towns 
that could almost be called cities, composed of 
substantial adobe houses exceedingly well built 
and often rising in pyramidal form to three or four 
stories in height. While many of them may have 
been used as communal dwellings or tenements, 
some were doubtless designed as storehouses for 
grain and various supplies and others were used 
as citadels or dedicated to devotional or civic pur- 
poses, as there is abundant evidence that religious 
and administrative activities occupied no incon- 
siderable portion of their time. 

In 1887, Frank Hamilton Gushing, a member 
of the Hemenway-Southwestern archaeological 
expedition, explored the ruins of a community of 
these early people, which lie five miles west of 
the present town of Chandler. Here he found the 
remains of a veritable city, which he called "El 
Pueblo de los Muertos"— "The City of the Dead"— 
in the center of which he uncovered many large 



16 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

communal houses and beyond them found the 
remains of more sparsely settled suburbs extend- 
ing for the distance of two miles. 

The largest of these houses had even greater 
dimensions than the famous Casa Grande, and 
must have, for its time, made a most imposing 
appearance. It was surrounded by smaller edi- 
fices, and the entire group was enclosed by an 
adobe wall, which, it is evident, was built as pro- 
tection against marauding enemies as well as to 
insure privacy to its occupants. 

As further evidence that these people lived in 
constant danger from surrounding savage tribes, 
to whom pillage was one of the natural occupa- 
tions of life, it may be noted that while there were 
windows and portholes in the outer walls of their 
houses, there were no doors. The dwellers and 
peaceable visitors entered and made their exit 
by means of ladders against the outer wall and 
trap doors in the roofs leading to the rooms within, 
which is the procedure in many of the modern 
pueblos. 

The walls of the houses were made of adobe, 
and built not of sun-dried brick, but by piling on 
more and more clay until the top was reached. It 
was always seen to that the wall of the house was 
of sufiicient thickness to insure at the same time 
protection against hostile tribes as well as the 
fierce summer heat of the desert. In the better 
finished houses the clay surface of the inner walls 
was rubbed by hand until it attained a high polish. 

The rafters between the stories were made of 



HOUSE AND CANAL BUILDERS 17 

small tree trunks upon which was laid a layer of 
reeds, which in turn was covered with a coating 
of cement-like clay. 

In the yards or streets of El Pueblo de los 
Muertos, Mr. Gushing found public ovens and large 
cooking pits lined with clay or natural cement. 
The largest of these pits was fifteen feet across 
and seven feet deep. 

Within the houses were found the remains of 
many dishes and utensils of a pottery not unlike 
that fashioned by some of the modern Indians; 
also, there were stones for grinding corn, stone 
axes, hammers and hoes, cotton cloth, skin- 
dressing implements, bone awls, and a score of 
other articles of the chase and of war and of 
domestic and religious usage, including various lit- 
tle images, some not over an inch long, carved 
from stone — fetishes and what not. 

All this, you see, is of the Stone Age, these peo- 
ple knowing nothing of the refining or smelting of 
ores. It is true that a roughly fashioned cutting 
instrument of copper was found by Frank Gushing 
in a small cave near Tempe, but it was doubtless 
smelted accidentally from a piece of ore that hap- 
pened to line a cooking pit. Also, in a ruin west 
of Phoenix, William Lossing discovered three little 
copper bells, like sleigh bells, with pebbles inside 
to serve as clappers. Their appearance shows 
them to be of unquestioned Mayan manufacture. 
One of them, now owned by Dr. E. H. Parker, of 
Los Angeles, is of beautiful design and fashioned 
out of fine copper wire coiled into shape and 
fused into one solid piece. 



18 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

In the corners of certain rooms at El Pueblo 
de los Muertos what were taken to be remains of 
persons of importance were found buried in 
vaults. Others of their dead were first incinerated, 
and the remaining ash and charred bones were 
interred in urns made of pottery with inverted 
saucer-like lids. 

Two of the skeletons found in Los Muertos were 
nearly six feet in length. Most of them, however, 
were short in stature. 

In 1694, Father Eusebio Francisco Kino, a Jesuit 
friar, visited the now famous ruin called "Casa 
Grande" — Big House — which lies about twelve 
miles from the present city of Florence and about 
three miles from the Gila River, and said mass 
there. Lieut. Juan Mateo Mange, who accom- 
panied the friar on a second visit, describes the 
principal ruin as but little more extensive than 
it is today, though at least one of the surrounding 
buildings, now nearly obliterated, then had not 
only walls but remains of ceiling beams as well. 

The number of these aboriginal people who 
lived in the Salt and Gila valleys at any one time 
is largely a matter of conjecture. The 150 miles 
or more of irrigating canals which comprise the 
Salt River Valley system could have irrigated ap- 
proximately 240,000 acres of land, which would 
have been sufficient for the support of a hundred 
thousand people. Besides this there were canals 
on the Gila which could have provided sustenance 
for the support of a hundred thousand more. 
However, it is unlikely that all these canals were 



HOUSE AND CANAL BUILDERS 19 

in use at any one time or that all of the fields 
under them were continually tilled. 

The courses of the Salt and Gila rivers are, to 
some degree, ever changing. A spring flood might 
so cut the channel of the river at the intake of the 
canal that it may have taken a year or more to re- 
pair it, or it may have led to the abandonment of 
the canal in favor of a better location. Continuous 
cultivation in one spot might partially exhaust 
the soil, or in low lands alkali might rise to the 
surface. 

Also, we do not know that all of the various 
centers of population, large and small, were occu- 
pied at the same time. Scientists like Bandelier 
and Mendelitf remind us that the modern Pueblan 
Indians frequently move an entire village. Speak- 
ing of the New Mexican Indians, in his "Final 
Report," Bandelier says, "With the exception of 
Acoma, there is not a single pueblo standing where 
it was at the time of Coronado;" and we read 
in Mendeliff's "Aboriginal Remains," "A band of 
500 village-building Indians may leave the ruins 
of fifty villages in the course of a single century." 

Still we must remember that the Hopi villages, 
except for the destruction of Awatabe, were pretty 
much in their present location at the time of 
Coronado, and that like them and Acoma, the 
larger aboriginal cities of the Salt and Gila coun- 
tries, as things temporal go, were reasonably per- 
manent. 

At Casa Grande the excavations made by Dr. 
J. W. Fewkes showed that in some cases com- 



20 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

munal houses were built upon the ruins of one or 
two earlier buildings. In its present form Casa 
Grande has been known since the seventeenth cen- 
tury. For how many centuries previously was the 
house as we now see it occupied? For how many 
centuries more were the earlier houses used? 

One may easily be pardoned for believing that 
it would take considerable of an upheaval to 
induce the inhabitants of either Casa Grande or 
the Pueblo de los Muertos to abandon it. 

So to go back to our original theme, even if the 
smaller villages could change their locations from 
time to time, and there might always be idle land 
under some of the canals, the total population of 
Casa Grande, El Pueblo de los Muertos, Casa 
Blanca, Snake Town, the Mesa Ruin, the Cross Cut 
Ruin and others that we have not even space to 
mention — these people who tilled the desert acres, 
who worshiped their gods in the sanctuaries, who 
danced on the hard earth of their plazas so many 
years ago — might easily have reached a very con- 
siderable number. 

Cliff dwellings are found in all that portion of 
Arizona lying east of a longitudinal line bisecting 
Prescott and north of the latitude of Phoenix; occa- 
sionally, too, they are found in other parts of the 
State. 

They are especially numerous along the upper 
reaches of the Gila and Salt, in the walls of the 
Canyon de Chelly, in and about Navajo Mountain, 
and other places where friable cliffs with natural 
recesses could be enlarged and chambers added to 
the original niches. 



HOUSE AND CANAL BUILDERS 21 

The perfected cliff dwelling consisted of a 
house of masonry built within these caves. 

The simplest of the habitations might consist 
of but one small room, with the original rock form- 
ing all the sides but the front, while the more 
elaborate would be veritable castles — communal 
houses, perhaps five stories in height, and contain- 
ing as many as 140 rooms. 

These various eyries occur at all levels, some 
only a few feet from the base of the cliff, others 
several hundred feet up its face, access to which 
could be had only by means of rude stairways cut 
in the rocks or by means of ladders, some of which 
are still in existence — well made with rounds tied 
to the two poles with stout pieces of bark. 

In the better class of buildings the workman- 
ship is excellent. The stones from which the walls 
were made, while rarely dressed, were carefully 
selected and skillfully laid in mortar, with both 
outside and inside surfaces regular and even. The 
walls were often plastered on the inside and occa- 
sionally on the outside as well. Sometimes the 
inner surfaces were covered with clay paint. All 
of the plastering was done by hand, and frequently 
the original finger prints can easily be discerned. 

One of the best known cliff dwellings in Ari- 
zona is the one styled "Montezuma's Castle." This 
ancient communal dwelling, five stories in height 
and containing many rooms, is built in a large 
recess in the face of a precipitous limestone cliff 
facing Beaver Creek, a tributary of the Verde. 

The bottom of the building is forty feet above 



22 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

the base of the cliff, and the natural rock which 
overhangs it gives admirable protection from 
wearing storms. Thus preserved from the ele- 
ments and inaccessible to visitors save by means 
of ladders, it is in comparatively good repair and 
presents a sharp contrast to the buried communal 
houses of the desert. 

Ladders were also used as means of passage 
from floor to floor, and, as is the case in all aborigi- 
nal dwellings, the doorways are small; this is for 
excellent reasons. In the winter a small door 
admits less cold air than a large one and is more 
easily covered by a skin curtain or a stone. Also, 
it must be remembered, that the aborigine was 
ever more or less at war with his neighbor. If a 
friend, upon entering the house, must of necessity 
bow his head, it may be ascribed to courtesy; if an 
enemy is forced to assume the same posture in 
making his entry, he is in an admirable position 
for you to crack him over the head with your 
stone ax. 

In addition to those in Arizona, cliff dwellings 
in large numbers, many of them most interesting 
and elaborate, have been found in New Mexico 
and Southern Colorado and Utah, and from them 
altogether have been taken such a variety of arti- 
cles that we have even a better conception of 
their inhabitants, perhaps, than in the case of the 
desert canal builder. 

Many of the articles, especially stone imple- 
ments, were similar to those found in the Pueblo 
de los Muertos. Special mention, however, should 



HOUSE AND CANAL BUILDERS 23 

be made of some of the highland pottery, beautiful 
in color and design, and with a glaze that has / 
never been equalled by the modern Indian. A 
curious feather cloth has been found, in addition 
to different cotton weaves; also, fiber mats and j 
sandals, as well as bone awls, beads and the like. / 
From the cliffs we learn that the leaves of the 
mescal were used as an article of food as well as 
the usual squash, corn and beans. 

Dessicated bodies, or mummies, in good state 
of preservation have been exhumed from care- 
fully sealed tombs. The bodies had first been 
wrapped in cotton cloth of fine texture, then in a 
piece of coarser cotton cloth or feather cloth, and 
finally all enclosed in matting tied with a cord ^ 
made of the fiber of cedar bark. 

The cliff dwellers, though to a less extent than 
the canal builders of the desert, also were farmers, j 
Leading from "Montezuma's Well," a small, 
curious basin of very deep water, ten miles north 
of Montezuma's Castle, an ancient canal of these 
people can easily be followed. The water was and 
is strongly impregnated with lime and made a 
coating of natural cement which remains to mark 
the sides and bottom of this waterway of an all- 
but-Torgotten day. 

In considering these people it must be remem- 
bered that not all of the tribesmen of the cliff 
dwellers lived in cliffs. In the famous ruins in 
the Rito de los Frijoles (Bean Canyon) in New 
Mexico, the ancient city of Ty-u-on-yi, all the part 
of one tremendous communal dwelling, resting on 



24 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

the canyon floor, according to Bandolier, was occu- 
pied by a portion of the same people who at the 
same time were dwelling in the cliffs of the Rito's 
sides. There was also a type of small stone house 
that was built on the New Mexican plateau whose 
antiquity is supposed to antedate the cliff dwell- 
ings. The larger communal house of the New 
Mexican plateau came later. Stone houses in Ari- 
zona, like the one whose ruins now stands on the 
brink of Montezuma's Well, were doubtless built 
and occupied by the cliff dwellers. 

As a little sidelight on the manners of these 
people, it is interesting to note that near many of 
the cliff dwellings, as well as in different places 
near the old desert habitations, aboriginal artists 
have carved smooth surfaces of the cliffs and large 
boulders with a variety of drawings, pricked into 
the surface of the rock by means of stone imple- 
ments. 

Some of these, like the pictographs which adorn 
the cliff above Apache Springs on the south side 
of the Superstition Mountains, are, for the most 
part, outlines of animals — mountain sheep, deer, 
antelope, mountain lions and the like. Clearly 
this w^as simply an open-air gallery where the 
artists of the tribe produced evidences of their 
skill for the pleasure and admiration of their fel- 
low tribesmen. 

Other drawings, like some of those found in 
San Tan Canyon, near the Gila, doubtless have a 
symbolic meaning. Here we find the conventional 
drawings of a deity, the sun with rays, and various 



HOUSE AND CANAL BUILDERS 25 

geometrical designs, all of which seem to have had 
an esoteric significance. 

There is abundant evidence that the tribes of 
these ancient people, as is the case with many of 
the modern Pueblo Indians of the Southwest, were 
divided into various clans, each of which had its 
own private ceremonies, and it is thought that 
some of these drawings were symbolic of their 
ritual. 

Just who the various peoples were — the canal 
and the house builder of the desert, and the cave, 
cliff and house dweller of the highlands — is a 
matter of more or less conjecture. Different 
groups of them doubtless talked different lan- 
guages and in some cases were possibly of differ- 
ent stock, yet all seemed to be linked together by 
a similar culture and a similar state of civilization. 

The accepted theory is that these people came 
from the south, but whether their culture was the 
result of some connection with other advanced 
tribes is obscure. 

The Mayan bell found by William Lossing cer- 
tainly indicates that articles of trade had found 
their way up from the Mayan country. In the 
University of Arizona, Prof. Byron Cummings has 
a number of stones found in the Salt River Valley 
on which faces and other designs are etched that 
bear strong resemblance to Toltec work, and 
although the contrary has often been stated to be 
the case, at least one image bearing the Aztec char- 
acteristics has been found in the Salt River Valley; 
so it would seem well within the limits of possibili- 



26 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

ties that not only did our people have knowledge 
of the higher cultural tribes mentioned, but also 
may have had their tribal blood enriched by them. 

Conservative as they are, Indian blood changes 
steadily, if but slowly. Members of friendly tribes 
intermarry in the usual way. Male members of 
hostile tribes steal women from one another — 
also in the usual way. Navajos are said to have 
learned blanket weaving from stolen Pueblan 
women — their descendants inheriting the inclina- 
tion and aptitude. 

As has always been the case since our knowl- 
edge of man commenced, a group of humans, 
stimulated by new conditions of environment or 
changed by some new infusion of blood suddenly, 
in this respect or that, rises head and shoulders 
above its fellows, and afterwards its descendants, 
influenced further by environment or habit as well 
as heredity, add to and crystallize these traits into 
form, and a new people takes its place in evolu- 
tion's long march upward. Thus it may have been 
with the tribes we are considering. 

As to when they first made their appearance in 
Arizona the question, naturally, is a most interest- 
ing one. In speaking of the cliff dwellers, George 
A. Dorsey, curator of anthropology at the Field 
Museum, says: 

" . . . It must be admitted in regard to cer- 
tain ruins, there is no evidence that they were not 
occupied several thousand years ago," while Ralph 
Emerson Twitchel, in his "Leading Facts of New 
Mexican History," writes, "Just when the occu- 



SOtJSE AND CANAL BUILDERS 27 

pancy of the cliffs began, whether five hundred or 
five thousand years ago, will probably always 
remain a mooted question." 

Persistent stories are heard of ruins found 
where lava has flowed over built walls or oUas, 
giving proof of an antiquity that reaches back to 
no one can say how many thousands of years. 
There is just one thing that keeps us from repeat- 
ing here some of the most interesting of these. 
Prof. Byron Gummings, of the University of Ari- 
zona, who has for years been making scientific 
investigations of Arizona ruins, said every time 
he heard of a ruin that had been covered by lava 
he had visited it — but he had never found the lava. 

Some of the writers are of the opinion that the 
ruins in the Salt River Valley are even older than 
the cliff dwellings. Frank Gushing was of the 
opinion that the people who built "Los Muertos" 
were there considerably Over a thousand years 
ago. 

That the tribes into which these people were 
divided lived for a long period in their various 
places of abode may be easily deduced from the 
range of antiquity shown in the condition of the 
different ruins. The walls of the present Gasa 
Grande, for example, both in the upper and lower 
floors, were in fairly good condition centuries after 
other communal houses along the Salt were re- 
duced to mounds of earth, while with the cliff 
dwellings, if one did not know better, an observer 
might fancy that Montezuma's Gastle was peopled 
a decade ago, it is in such good repair. 



28 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

No less interesting than the question of who 
these people were is the one, what became of them 
all? The old, popular theory was that at a time 
long ago the desert, canyon and mountain-top were 
all teeming with countless multitudes of people 
when suddenly, all in a day perhaps, some awful 
catastrophe, some dire cataclysm occurred, and 
to the last man, woman and child they were wiped 
from the face of the earth! Dramatic, truly; only 
it can scarcely be so. 

As to just what did happen, while there was no 
aboriginal Gibbon to write in graphic sentences of 
their decline and exit, let us see if by keeping in 
mind all we know we can not place a picture 
before our eyes that will not be wholly remote 
from the truth. 

To begin with, let us turn our mental calendars 
back to the time when the Moors ruled Spain and 
Pepin was King of the Franks, and conjure a 
vision of the irrigated farms and communal dwell- 
ings of the desert people of the Salt River Valley. 

It is late summer, and in a field our aboriginal 
farmer, clad only in sandals and breech clout 
(additional clothing is for a cooler season), gathers 
his rather runty ears of corn and big pods of beans. 
Working with him is his broad-backed spouse, 
wearing possibly a kilt of antelope skin, with a 
cotton garment of some sort covering the upper 
part of her body. She piles the corn and beans 
into her basket, and on her head carries load after 
load to the family granary. 

On an adjoining farm, perhaps, the woman 



HOUSE AND CANAL BUILDERS 29 

may be kneeling at the grinding stones making 
meal of the blue and white kernels of corn piled 
beside her, putting quite as much muscle into her 
work as do the men near by who are dressing 
skins or polishing hand axes. 

If we shift our point of view some eighty miles 
to the northeast to the Verde River we shall see, on 
the same day perhaps, a distant kinsman of our 
desert rancher, climbing by means of well built 
ladders up the face of a precipitous cliff a hun- 
dred feet or more, carrying a basket full of flat 
stones to where his waiting spouse, standing on 
the edge of a niche in the rock, mortars the stones 
in the wall that will make the front of their domi- 
cile. Still on the same day, if our mental vision 
holds out, we can look down upon a highland vil- 
lage on the MogoUon plateau and see in front of a 
house resembling in shape the desert dwelling, but 
made of stone, a woman before a primitive loom 
weaving cotton cloth, while the men make arrow 
heads of pieces of obsidian, or, if we drop in later, 
and enter one of the ceremonial chambers, we 
might see some of the older members of the tribe 
debating matters of tribal importance or taking 
part with the priests in a ceremonial petition to 
"Those Above" for rain, or success in battle. 

Years, even centuries, of such life go on; there 
is water for the farmer and game for the hunter. 
Then comes a change, and drought follows 
drought. Down in the desert country the corn in 
the granaries is almost exhausted. There comes 
a day when the predecessors of the savage Ute or 



30 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Apache attack the village on the Salt and carry it 
by storm. They kill the defenders, fire the roofs 
and watch the walls topple over on the bodies of 
their victims. What corn there is left they carry 
away. 

Is it diflicult to imagine after an experience 
like this that the fleeting remnant from the village 
thus sacked would go by night, a frightened band 
of fugitives, to join their kinsmen who lived in 
the fastnesses of the rocks? What if the tillage 
of the soil would be less fruitful; it was enough if 
the caverns in the lofty cliffs would give them 
sanctuary. 

However, we need not imagine that all of the 
inhabitants of the desert ranches went at one time 
or that war was always the impelling force. We 
have already seen how such calamities as pesti- 
lence, loss of irrigation water, or deterioration of 
the soil might cause a community to move from 
one spot to another in the same region. These 
and similar happenings might induce a people to 
leave their former surroundings altogether. 

Still more centuries pass and we witness the 
final abandonment of the cliffs. Why did they 
leave? Perhaps it slowly developed that the 
eyries were not as impregnable as first appeared. 
Certainly it must have been difficult to store water 
enough in their caves to withstand a long siege, 
and always there must have been auxiliary meth- 
ods of defense and counter attack. 

Presumably wiTh the changes in fighting tactics 
it appeared that a village on a mesa top fronting 
a high escarpment offered as much protection and 



HOUSE AND CANAL BUILDERS 31 

far more conveniences than a shallow recess five 
hundred feet up a precipitous cliff. Possibly the 
time came when the dwellers in these retreats felt 
strong enough to cope with their enemies on differ- 
ent terms. 

Two things we may be positive about: they 
did not go because they had to go, and they were 
not annihilated. Scourged by pestilence they 
doubtless were, and ravaged by war, but a rem- 
nant ever remained. The cliff dwellers left their 
eyries because they wanted to, and moved to the 
table-lands because they thought the change would 
be an improvement on their former way of living. 

Indeed, as we look at the ruins of the villages 
up and down the Little Colorado and throughout 
Tusayan, we can see that they did very consider- 
able moving during the many years before the 
Spaniards came, and, also, to some extent after- 
wards. 

Here we arrive at the answer to our problem. 
The people we have been considering never were 
exterminated. Their descendants are living today, 
and their relation with the ancient people is 
shown not only by the similarity of their building, 
their pottery and the patterns in their cloth, but 
by studying the ruins of the ancient ceremonial 
chambers and bits of sacerdotal paraphernalia 
found within them and fitting them to what we 
know of the modern tribes, the connection between 
the two is undeniable. 

It is not to be expected that the stock has been 
kept pure all the centuries from the Pueblo de los 



32 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Muertos or Montezuma's Castle to the present, but 
the characteristics of the people and much of its 
culture has been kept intact, and the Hopi of Ari- 
zona, and the inhabitants of such pueblos as Zuni, 
Acoma and Cochiti in New Mexico, in all likeli- 
hood are the direct descendants of both the canal 
builder of the desert and the cliff dweller of the 
hills. 



Chaptee II 
THE COMING OF THE SPANIARDS 

ALTHOUGH Fray Marcos of Niza was the first 
white man, so far as authenticated records 
go, to enter the land that is now known as 
Arizona, there is a possibility that the distinction 
should belong to another, who, like De Niza, was 
also a member of the Order of St. Francis. 

Early in 1538 the provincial of the Franciscans 
of New Spain sent Juan de la Asuncion and Pedro 
Nedal on a mission beyond the borders of New 
Galicia (Sinaloa), and although it has never been 
satisfactorily verified, it is believed by some au- 
thorities that Asuncion, at least, may have reached 
either the Gila or Colorado rivers near the con- 
fluence of those streams, though in summing up 
the matter the careful Bandolier says the evidence 
does not come up to the requirements of historical 
certainty. 

The immediate events leading up to the famous 
journey of De Niza may be said to have had their 
genesis with the arrival of Alvar Nunez Gabeza de 
Vaca and his companions in Culiacan at the end of 
their perilous trip across the continent. 

De Vaca, it wall be remembered, was treasurer 
and "high constable" of the ill-starred expedition 
of Don Panfilo Narvaez, who was authorized by 



34 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

the Council of the Indies to sail for the New World 
and conquer the country from the Rio de las 
Palmas to the Cape of Florida. 

From its start the history of the expedition is a 
continuous narration of disaster. Landing on the 
west coast of Florida, April 14, 1528, the four hun- 
dred men that made up the company decreased in 
numbers with appalling inevitableness. Two hun- 
dred and forty-seven was the count, when, after 
losing their ships and facing starvation in a hos- 
tile country, they embarked in rude boats of their 
own manufacture. In a stormy voyage along the 
northern coast line of the Gulf of Mexico their 
numbers decreased to eighty, and later to four by 
additional disasters. These four, however, De 
Vaca, Alonzo del Castillo Maldonado, Andres 
Dorantes and his negro slave, Estevan, a native 
of Morocco, have made enduring names for them- 
selves in history. 

After many attempts they succeeded in escap- 
ing from the natives who held them in semi- 
captivity near the coast, when they struck out 
boldly toward the west through what was to them 
an absolutely unknown wilderness, hoping that 
somehow they would find the settlements of New 
Spain. 

Doubtless even with their wonderful endurance 
and intrepid courage they would have failed had 
it not been for the reputation that Castillo and De 
Vaca achieved as medicine men, both themselves 
and the Indians believing that they could cure all 
diseases and even raise the dead by supernatural 
powers. 



THE COMING OF THE SPANIARDS 35 

The first of their countrymen they met was a 
small scouting party encountered after many 
months of arduous traveling through Texas (possi- 
bly New Mexico), Chihuahua and Sonora. Here, 
soon after they had crossed the Rio Yaqui, they 
came up with Capt. Diego de Alcaraz, who, with his 
men, was engaged in the common occupation of 
Spanish soldiers under the cruel Guzman, of har- 
rowing and enslaving the natives. 

April 1, 1536, eight years after they had landed 
in Florida, the four refugees arrived in Culiacan, 
where "with tears and praising God," they were 
received by the alcalde, Melchior Diaz. 

De Vaca was the historian of the party, and 
although his account was in the main temperate 
and conservative, it made a profound sensation in 
New Spain, the more so as it was coupled with 
fabulous rumors then current in Mexico concern- 
ing a wonderful country to the north. The most 
persistent of these tales, started by stories of 
Indians and romantically embellished, concerned 
the seven wonderful cities of Cibola, which in the 
end finally proved to be seven Indian villages in 
the Zuni country. New Mexico. In the stories, 
however, these towns were larger than the City of 
Mexico itself, and in the center of a land so rich 
in gold and silver that cooking utensils were made 
of these precious metals. 

The year before De Vaca reached civilization, 
Antonio de Mendoza, an able and deeply religious 
man, had been appointed viceroy, and upon the 
arrival of the refugees at the capital he entertained 



36 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

them royally, and determined, upon hearing their 
story, that for the glory of the church and emperor, 
he would add this country of the north to their 
dominion. 

After consulting with Bishop Bartolome de las 
Gasas and Francisco Vasquez Coronado, the vice- 
roy decided that instead of sending at the outset a 
large force of soldiers, he would dispatch one or 
two friars to spy out the land. 

Friars were always good travelers, resourceful, 
and, where there was a chance of winning souls, 
wholly fearless. With their piety and tact they 
might easily make a better impression upon the 
natives of the country than the soldiers, and hav- 
ing no worldly interests to bias their reports, they 
could be believed implicitly. 

At that time Marcos de Niza, a member of the 
Franciscan brotherhood, was holding the office 
of vice commissioner of New Spain and engaged, 
under the viceroy's orders, in instructing a large 
number of friendly Indians in the tenets of the 
church as well as teaching them the Spanish lan- 
guage. He was held in high esteem by his own 
order, and had been with Pizarro in Peru. 

Impressed with the fitness of the man, the 
viceroy selected him to undertake this perilous 
excursion into the Northwest. With the friar he 
would send Estevan, the negroid Moor (whom 
Mendoza had already purchased from Andres 
Durantes) and a number of the Christian Indians 
that had been with De Vaca and who might be 
able to act as interpreters with part at least of the 
northern tribes. 



THE COMING OF THE SPANIARDS 37 

Thus, without ostentation, the excursion 
started, Coronado accompanying it as far as Guli- 
acan. From that point, on March 7, 1539, Fray 
Marcos having a companion in a Friar Onorato, 
the party journeyed northward. 

For a while everything went most auspiciously, 
the natives being specially friendly, as word had 
been sent out that the viceroy had ordered that 
the Indians should not thereafter be enslaved but 
treated with all kindness. However, when they 
reached the Indian village of Petatlan, Onorato 
was taken ill, and Fray Marcos was obliged to go 
on without him. 

The expedition followed the line of the coast 
for several leagues, but after crossing the Rio 
Mayo turned inland, and upon reaching the im- 
portant village of Vacapa, the friar decided to 
remain for a time, sending Estavan ahead to make 
a reconnaissance. 

He told the negro to go north fifty or sixty 
leagues, and if he made any discoveries of moment, 
either to return in person or to send a message and 
stay where he was until he should arrive. 

As the negro had no knowledge of writing, the 
message was to be sent by a cross. One the size of 
a man's hand would indicate the discovery to be 
of small importance, while if the matter was of 
very great moment, indeed, one twice that size 
might be sent. Imagine the good friar's state of 
mind when, four days later, the Indians returned 
bearing a cross as tall as the friar himself, and 
with it came not alone the old story of Cibola, but 



38 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

accounts of three other magnificent cities which 
lay beyond them, Marata, Acus and Totonteac, 
whose glories even outshone those of Cibola. 

It may be said here that such towns really 
existed, much as they, or similar Indian pueblos, 
exist today, interesting undoubtedly, but scarcely 
glorious; Marata being, like Cibola, in the Zuni 
country, while Acus is the high-perched Acoma, 
and Totonteac one of a group of Hopi towns now 
in ruins. . , 

Glowing as was the report that his servant sent 
him, the worthy Fray Marcos does not seem to 
have been specially stampeded, for he waited two 
days longer and then continued his journey, going 
up the beautiful Sonora Valley, of which he "took 
possession" in the name of the viceroy and the 
emperor. 

The Indians he found here, whom he called the 
"Painted Ones," and who may have been the Pimas 
or Papagos, received the reverend traveler with 
all kindness, presenting him with quail, rabbits 
and pine nuts. They also told him that the people 
of Totonteac wore garments made of stuff like his 
woolen frock which they obtained from animals 
about the size of greyhounds. 

When they reached the head of the valley the 
friar and his party passed over the divide and 
descended into the valley of the San Pedro, where 
a short journey brought them into what is now the 
border of Arizona. 

All along the Rio San Pedro, Fray Marcos 
reported that he found a most prosperous people 



THE COMING OF THE SPANIABDS 39 

who lived in villages a quarter to a half a league 
apart, and were well dressed and wearing many 
turquoises. 

When he reached the mouth of the San Pedro, 
he crossed the Gila above the confluence of the 
two streams, and, while camping there, received 
his first word from Estavan since the message of 
the cross. The negro, it seemed, was having what 
may be described as a tour de luxe through the 
country, for the Indians reported that he had 
decked himself out with feathers about his wrists 
and ankles, and, like a field marshal might carry 
a baton, bore with him a gourd adorned with two 
feathers, one of red and one of white, besides a 
string of bells. 

Certainly he had succeeded in impressing the 
natives with his importance, for they had given 
him as an escort of honor, three hundred or more 
men and women. He was not waiting for orders 
from his pious master, as he had been instructed. 
Quite the contrary. He was the conquering hero 
going through the country in state, while his bare- 
foot, brown-gowned master might follow as he 
would. He left word that he was on his way to 
Cibola, which lay beyond the mountains. 

On May 9, 1539, Fray Marcos again set out on 
his journey, following the path Estavan had taken, 
selecting only thirty men of the large number of 
natives who wanted to accompany him. After 
they had left the camp, to his great surprise, his 
guides soon led him into a well-beaten trail which 
they followed for much of their journey, and each 



40 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

night he found a shelter which had been prepared 
by members of his own party who had gone ahead. 

For twelve days they journeyed through the 
White and Mogollon mountains, whose peaks were 
covered with snow, living well on the deer, rabbit 
and quail with which his hospitable guides pro- 
vided him; then, when near the Continental divide, 
they were met by an Indian who had been with 
Estavan, and who brought the direful information 
that while the negro had indeed reached Cibola, 
instead of meeting with the cordial welcome he 
had hoped for, he had been slain. 

At this, naturally, the friar's escort was much 
alarmed, but with the aid of gifts, De Niza induced 
them to proceed with him. The next day they 
came across two more of Estavan's escort who 
gave him the details of his servant's murder. 

It seems that when Estavan had come in sight 
of Cibola he had sent his much adorned gourd 
ahead to the chiefs of the town, and doubtless 
remembering what prestige the claim had given 
De Vaca, instructed his envoys to say that he was 
a great medicine man. 

Whether the Cibolans may have thought that 
Estavan's "medicine" was bad, and that he prac- 
ticed an art as black as his skin, or whether, as 
some commentators suggest, the gourd was a sym- 
bol of a people with whom the city was at enmity, 
or whether it was simply the arrogance of the 
man, in any event the chiefs received the deputa- 
tion with every indication of enmity, and throwing 
the gourd to the ground, told their visitors to say 



THE COMING OF THE SPANIARDS 41 

to their chief that he must leave at once or "not 
one of them would be left alive." 

However, no matter how much Estavan may 
have lacked in tact and obedience, he seems to 
have had no want of courage, for, decked with 
feathers and bells, he advanced confidently to the 
town, which was the usual pueblan community 
made up of adobe pyramidal houses — anything but 
the magnificent city of the Cibolan traditions. 

When the negro reached the edge of the vil- 
lage, which was situated on a sharp rise of ground, 
the chiefs would allow neither him nor his escort 
to enter, but stripped the negro of his trappings 
and robbed him of his possessions. 

The discomfited visitors spent the night out- 
side of the walls, and in the morning, while trying 
to escape, the Cibolans pursued and killed not 
only Estavan but some of his followers. 

It may be noted here that Cibola was, in all 
probability, Hawaikuh, one of the cities of the 
Zunis just across the border from Arizona in New 
Mexico. A tradition is still current there that a 
long time ago a very bad "Black Mexican" from 
the south visited them, and they killed him with 
stones and buried him under them. A variation 
of the tale is that the "Wise Men" of the pueblo 
escorted him to its edge and gave him a kick so 
powerful that he never struck earth again until he 
reached the country from whence he came. 

The possibilities of what the Cibolans in their 
present state of mind might do to a second for- 
eigner might well have daunted even Fray Marcos' 



42 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

strong heart, but instead of retreating, with gifts 
and brave words to encourage his escort, he went 
resolutely forward, determined to have a look, at 
least, at the city of his dreams, no matter what the 
cost. 

When he came in sight of the pueblo he was 
much affected. From a distance the several stories 
of its perhaps two hundred dwellings did make 
something of an appearance, especially when an 
observer had an imagination strong enough to 
supply what vision failed to record. 

With due solemnity and deliberation, though 
every minute must have been fraught with danger, 
Fray Marcos of Niza raised a mound of stones, 
planted a cross on it and in due form "took pos- 
session" of all the country he could see, in the 
name of the viceroy and the emperor. 

However, when the ceremony was over, "with 
more fright than food," as he frankly put it, he 
hastily started on his return journey to New Spain. 

When several months later he reached the 
City of Mexico and had audience with Mendosa, 
he had a great tale to unfold. Coronado after- 
wards very flatly said that the most he told was 
not so at all, and the little that was so was ex- 
tremely highly colored, but we must remember 
that when the gallant captain said that he was a 
greatly disappointed man. 

It is far more likely that the good Fray Mar- 
cos — whose excellent reputation covered many 
years — was simply a glorious and unreliable 
optimist. Much of his conversation with Arizona 



THE COMING OF THE SPANIARDS 43 

Indians had doubtless been confined to signs, 
and he translated what they really did mean into 
what he wanted them to mean. Other enthusiasts 
have done the same thing. In any event, he 
spun a great yarn. The buildings were not only 
many stories in height and built of stone, but 
the walls were set with turquoises. The women 
wore strings of gold beads, and the men girdles 
of gold and white woolen dresses, and they had 
sheep and cows and partridges and slaughter- 
houses and iron forges. And as if this were not 
enough, he added, "They use vessels of gold and 
silver, for they have no other metal, whereof there 
is greater use and more abundant than in Peru." 

It is wholly possible that de Niza did not tell 
the viceroy all the things that are attributed to 
him, but what he did tell was enough to make 
Mendosa immediately decide upon the conquest of 
the country. 

Although he enjoined the greatest secrecy upon 
the friar, the story was too sensational to keep, 
and within a few days the capital was aflame with 
excitement. Here was a chance for such captains 
as Cortez, Guzman and Alvarado to conquer more 
worlds; here was an opportunity for the scores of 
young nobles lounging about the plazas of the city 
to gain both gold and glory. 

The captains took the first ship for Spain, 
where they hoped to get permits for exploration 
from the Emperor Charles, while the young blades 
daily besieged Mendoza for commissions. 

The viceroy was a man of quick action, and 



44 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

while his rivals were still across the sea petitioning 
their monarch, Mendoza completed his plans. 
Don Francisco Vasquez de Goronado, a young 
Spanish nobleman, and for a short time governor 
of New Galicia, was to be captain general, and 
Pedro de Castaneda de Nacera, also of good birth, 
historian. 

The army of conquest, which was to be of suffi- 
cient size to absolutely insure success, was mobil- 
ized at Compostella, on the Pacific Coast, and on 
the morning of February 23, 1540, the most splen- 
did body of troops ever brought together in New 
Spain passed out of the city before the admiring 
eyes of Mendoza and his staff. 

First came three hundred cavaliers, young men 
of the best blood of Spain, mounted on the pick of 
the horses of the country, with Goronado, clad 
from head to foot in a glittering coat of mail, at 
their head. Other cavaliers, too, wore armor, and 
all had their heads protected with iron helmets 
or vizored head-pieces of bullhide. Each carried 
a lance in his right hand, whiL^ a sword clattered 
at his belt. To add a finishing note to the mag- 
nificence of these young gallants, bright-colored 
blankets hung gorgeously from shoulder to ground. 

The cavalry was only the first battalion, and 
back of them walked footmen with crossbow or 
arquebus, or with sword and shield, and still be- 
hind them came the light artillery with wicked- 
looking field pieces strapped to the backs of stout 
mules. 

The final division of all was composed of ser- 



THE COMING OF THE SPANIARDS 45 

vants and slaves leading extra horses and pack 
animals loaded with the belongings of the elegant 
young horsemen, and driving before them herds 
of oxen, cows and sheep. No wonder the people 
cheered and the viceroy was congratulated upon 
the country of gold that would be added to his 
domain. 

The distance to Culiacan, their first objective, 
was eighty leagues, but so impeded were the move- 
ments of the army by the herds and pack animals 
that they did not arrive at their destination until 
March 28th. 

The November before, Melchior Diaz, with a 
small escort, had been sent north on a reconnais- 
sance to verify, if possible, de Niza's report. He 
had gone forward as far as the Gila River country, 
and upon his return had met Coronado before the 
captain general had arrived at Culiacan. 

His reports verified many of the details Fray 
Marcos had given of the early part of his journey, 
and as he had not penetrated far enough into the 
country to prick the Cibola bubble, Coronado com- 
pleted his energetic plans for continuing his enter- 
prise. 

At Culiacan, influenced doubtless by what Diaz 
had said regarding the difficulties of traveling 
through the land to the north, Coronado now di- 
vided his forces. The first section was to consist 
of seventy-five or eighty cavaliers, thirty foot sol- 
diers and four priests, one of which would be de 
Niza. The second division would include the pack 
animals and the herds. 

Two weeks were consumed in reorganizing the 



46 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

forces, and at the end of that time Coronado ad- 
vanced with the lighter battalion, leaving the 
others to follow more leisurely. 

To further insure the success of the great enter- 
prise, the viceroy meanwhile was outfitting two 
supply ships which ultimately sailed from Nativi- 
dad on May 9th under the command of Hernando 
de Alarcon. These ships were joined by a third, 
and with great difficulties sailed up the Gulf of 
California, which had already been explored by 
Ulloa. At the mouth of the Colorado, Alarcon left 
the ships and with two small boats made two dif- 
ferent trips up the river in search of some tidings 
from Coronado. On the second trip he went a 
considerable distance above the mouth of the Gila 
River where he erected a great cross and buried 
letters for Coronado, with a notice on a conspicu- 
ous tree telling where they could be found. How- 
ever, they heard nothing of the expedition, and 
sailed for home. 

In the meanwhile Coronado and his men, in 
spite of rough going, advanced along a route not 
greatly different from that taken by Fray Marcos, 
and on July 7th finally came in sight of Hawaikuh. 

Alas for the golden stories of the friar! These 
soldiers of fortune, in their present state of mind, 
had no rosy spectacles of romance through which 
to view the Indian village that lay before them. 
Castanada said, "It looked as though it had been 
all crumpled up together." 

When they saw the advancing company of 
Spaniards a number of the Indians came out of 



THE COMING OF THE SPANIARDS 47 

their houses to meet them. Goronado sent for- 
ward part of his cavalry and two of the priests to 
parley with them, but the Indians greeted their 
visitors with a volley of arrows. At this the Span- 
iards raised their battle cry of "Santiago," and 
charged, and the Indians, dismayed at the steel 
swords and the hoofs of the horses, fled back to 
their walls. The invaders then advanced in force 
up a steep pathway leading to the village, which 
was perched upon the mesa. As the white men 
came up, the Indians stood on the terraces of their 
pyramidal houses and hurled stones and shot 
arrows at them. 

On came the Spaniards, with Goronado at their 
head. His shining armor made a conspicuous tar- 
get for the missiles of the Indians, and a few 
minutes later he was felled to the earth. His fol- 
lowers quickly rallied to his aid, and soon took the 
place by storm, with none of their men killed and 
but few injured. 

They immediately possessed themselves of the 
town, searching vainly for jewels and precious 
metals. But even if there proved to be no stew 
pots of gold, no frying pans of silver or pieces of 
turquoise set in the walls, there was plenty of corn 
and a place to rest, which after all was what they 
most needed. 

Had they not been expecting so much, both the 
people and the town ought to have been full of 
interest for the soldiers. The Indians, culturally, 
were far ahead of any others they had seen since 
leaving Mexico. Their houses were built of stone 



48 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

and the people themselves were clothed in beau- 
tifully dressed skins and cotton cloth. Besides 
corn, they raised on their primitive farms squash 
and beans. 

Goronado remained at Cibola, making it his 
headquarters for some considerable time. Shortly 
after his arrival he sent Don Pedro de Tovar, with 
an escort of cavalry, on into the Hopi country, of 
which he had heard much from the Cibolans. 

When Tovar arrived at one of the principal 
Hopi towns, the inhabitants refused to allow him 
to enter, when Friar Juan de Padilla urged the 
Spaniards to attack. One charge with the horses 
and guns thoroughly cowed the Hopis, who there- 
upon sued for peace, and loaded their conquerors 
with pine nuts, turkeys and other food. 

When the expedition returned to Cibola, Coro- 
nado took a number of semi-precious stones they 
had collected, and with a painted deer skin, made 
up a package for the viceroy, which he dispatched, 
together with a letter, by Juan de Gallego. With 
Gallego went Fray Marcos, now decidedly unpopu- 
lar as well as unhappy in the camp. Melchior 
Diaz, who was to send forward the second divi- 
sion of the army, also accompanied them. 

After an uneventful journey the three returning 
travelers found the army in a comfortable camp 
on the Sonora River, reaching there about the 
middle of September. 

Soon the army went north, when Diaz, who had 
been left in command of the camp, which was to 
be made permanent, decided to try to find the sup- 
ply fleet and Alarcon. 



THE COMING OF THE SPANIARDS 49 

With twenty-five men he traveled northwest 
until he reached the Colorado River, but though 
he found the letters Alarcon had left, the fleet had 
already departed. The expedition came to an ab- 
rupt end when, upon an inauspicious day, Diaz 
was accidentally transfixed with a lance and died. 
His followers immediately returned to the military 
camp on the Sonora River. 

When Tovar had returned from the Hopi coun- 
try he told Coronado that the natives had told him 
of a great river that lay to the northwest, whose 
banks were peopled with a race of giants. The 
captain general thereupon sent Don Garcia Lopez 
de Cardenas and twelve cavaliers to explore it. 

At the Hopi villages Cardenas found guides, 
and from thence proceeded over the plateau coun- 
try, which they found cold in spite of the summer 
season, and after several days were rewarded by 
seeing the Grand Canyon of the Colorado. 

Coming unexpectedly upon this tremendous 
marvel of Nature, it is no wonder that they were 
filled with amazement at its magnitude and majes- 
tic beauty. For several days they explored the 
rim, trying vainly to find a trail leading to the 
river, which to them looked like a silver thread, 
and which the Indians insisted was half a league 
wide. Three of the most active of the men did 
make one effort to climb down the sides, but hours 
after returned to say that they had attempted the 
impossible, for "rocks which from the tops had 
appeared to be no taller than a man, were found 
upon reaching them to be taller than the tower of 
the cathedral at Seville." 

4 



50 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

The discovery of the Grand Canyon of the Colo- 
rado practically ended the explorations of 
Coronado in Arizona. 

After the return of Cardenas, the captain gen- 
eral marched eastward into New Mexico, where 
the record of his explorations was sadly marred 
by the bad faith and cruelty shown by the Span- 
iards to the Indians. 

Ever lured on by the will-of-the-wisp stories of 
gold told them by the Indians, who soon discov- 
ered the white man's madness for the yellow metal, 
they journeyed into Texas, Oklahoma and even 
Kansas, where their farthermost point seems to 
have been reached somewhere beyond the Arkan- 
sas River. 

Finally, following many disasters, two years 
from the time they had started so auspiciously 
from Compostella, Coronado led his army back to 
Mexico. With the ranks of his army depleted by 
death, his men dressed in tattered skins of animals, 
worn by hardships and privations, their leader 
entered the capital of New Spain, "very sad and 
very weary, completely worn out and shame- 
faced," feeling that he was held responsible not 
only for their failure to find gold, but also for the 
fate of those who had died on the inhospitable 
deserts of the north. Nevertheless, though the 
viceroy received him with coldness, and though 
his name is tarnished with the treatment his men 
showed the natives, yet by reason of his splendid 
courage and dogged persistence in continuing his 
explorations in the face of constant perils, Coro- 



THE COMING OF THE SPANIARDS 51 

nado and such captains as Melchior Diaz have 
won for themselves enduring and justly earned 
fame. 

The inability of Coronado to find any trace of 
gold in the country to the north effectively ended 
all efforts at exploration in that direction until in 
1582 (forty years after Coronado's return), when 
Antonio de Espejo led a small expedition into New 
Mexico with the double purpose of looking for two 
missing Franciscans and searching for precious 
minerals. They made one trip into what is now 
Arizona, Espejo with nine followers going west to 
the Hopi villages and afterwards prospecting for 
metals in a section that probably included Yavapai 
County. 

In 1598 Don Juan de Onate organized a large 
expedition, consisting of 400 men, 130 of which 
were accompanied by their families, 10 Franciscan 
friars, 83 wagons and 7,000 head of cattle, with a 
view of permanently colonizing the fertile country 
along the upper Rio Grande. Like Espejo, he 
made one exploring trip into Arizona, where, after 
visiting the Hopi and other Indian villages, he did 
some fruitless searching for minerals. At a later 
time Onate went as far west as the Colorado River 
down which he journeyed to its mouth. 

The battles with the Indians of this really re- 
markable commander, his troubles with members 
of his army, his success in establishing colonies, 
belong to the annals of New Mexico rather than to 
those of Arizona, still it should be mentioned that 
Onate's expedition marked the beginning of the 



52 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

settlement of New Mexico by the Spaniards, and 
with the exception of a brief period following the 
revolt of the natives in 1680, its occupation by the 
white race was thereafter continuous. 



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SPANISH MISSIONS IN AEIZONA AND NORTHERN SONORA 



Chapter III 
SPANISH MISSION DAYS 

SPANISH mission activities among the Indians 
of Arizona began early in the seventeenth 
century when friars from the colonies on 
the Rio Grande first visited and later took resi- 
dence among the Hopis in the pueblos east of the 
Painted Desert. However, at the time of the New 
Mexican Revolt in 1680, four Franciscans, who 
were ministering in five of the towns of Tusayan, 
were killed by their parishioners and thereafter 
all through the Spanish rule the Hopis refused to 
have anything to do with the white man's religion. 

Among the Indians to the south the Spaniards 
were much more successful. The work here began 
with the arrival of the Jesuits in 1690. The padres 
of this order continued in charge of the field for 
seventy-seven years, when, in 1767, they were suc- 
ceeded by the Franciscans, who for sixty years 
more, like their predecessors, labored diligently 
and unselfishly for the salvation of their charges, 
until, in 1827, Mexico becoming independent of 
Spain, the Franciscans were banished from the 
country. 

The southern missionary field covered all of 
what was then known as Pimeria Alta, which, 
roughly, was bounded on the north by the Gila 
53 



54 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

and on the east by the San Pedro. On the south 
it ran well into Sonora, and on the west extended 
to the Rio Colorado and the Gulf of California. 
Although both Jesuits and Franciscans in this dis- 
trict tried to reach the northern tribes, their efi'orts 
were barren of success. Even in Pimeria Alta 
north of the present Mexican line but two missions 
of any permanency were established by the Jesuits 
and but two more were added by the Franciscans. 

The first and greatest of the Jesuit missionaries 
was Father Eucebio Kino. He was a native of 
Trent in the Austrian Tyrol, and believing that he 
owed his recovery from a serious illness to the 
intercession of St. Francis Xavier, resigned a pro- 
fessorship at the College of Ingolstadt in Bavaria 
to devote his life to the salvation of the Indians 
in the New World. 

In February, 1687, we find him near the present 
town of Ures in Sonora, where he founded his first 
mission, Nuestra Senora de los Dolores, which 
place he made his headquarters up to the time of 
his death, and from which he made his many mis- 
sionary journeys to Arizona. 

In December, 1690, Father Juan Maria de Sal- 
vatierra, superior and visitador, came to Dolores, 
and as he and Father Kino were inspecting the 
different missions and visitas which the latter had 
established in the district, they were met at Tucu- 
babai on the Rio Altar by a delegation of Sobai- 
puris Indians. These natives had journeyed south- 
ward from about the locality of San Xavier to ask 
if missionaries could not be sent to their own 
country. 



SPANISH MISSION DAYS 55 

Gladly acceding to their request, shortly after- 
wards the two Jesuits journeyed northward, cross- 
ing the border at or near the Santa Cruz River, 
being the first white men to enter what is now 
Arizona from the south since Coronado's visit 
one hundred and fifty years before. 

Salvatierra immediately returned to Mexico, 
leaving Kino, who remained a little while longer, 
investigating the possibilities of the country as a 
missionary field. 

Although he had little encouragement from the 
superiors of his order, Father Kino took a great 
interest in the Papagos, Pimas and other friendly 
tribes of Indians living in that part of Pimeria 
Alta, now known as Arizona, and during the re- 
maining sixteen years of his administration of 
missionary affairs from Dolores, made no less than 
fourteen journeys through different parts of that 
country. 

At this time the most northerly of the precidios 
or garrisons of the Spaniards was at Fronteras, 
situated near the San Pedro River, in northern 
Sonora. From this presidio there operated a fly- 
ing squadron whose purpose it was to defend the 
missions and missionaries from hostile Indians, 
particularly the Apaches, who about a half century 
before first appeared in Arizona, coming from the 
north, and from the time of their arrival gave 
evidences of the predatory and murderous charac- 
teristics which later turned Arizona into a verita- 
ble charnel house. 

However, in spite of manifold dangers, some- 



56 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

times guarded by an escort of soldiers, sometimes 
only accompanied by a companion friar or Indian 
guides, and often traveling alone. Father Kino jour- 
neyed up and down the Santa Cruz, the San Pedro 
and Gila rivers, preaching and ministering to 
Papagos, Pimas, Sobas, Coco-Maricopas and 
Yumas who lived in that district. The good father 
must have possessed a wonderful personality and 
adaptability as well as great courage, for nearly 
everywhere the Indians seem to have received 
him gladly, listened to his teachings and given him 
their children to be baptized. 

Knowing of the missions farther to the south, 
the natives were anxious to have like communities 
established in their own country, and although 
Father Kino's greatest desire was to see this accom- 
plished, he was unable to get the support to carry 
out the plan. Nevertheless, at many of the villages 
the natives built little adobe churches where 
Father Kino and his few associates might hold 
mass on their all too infrequent visits. 

The padres, besides ministering to their charges 
spiritually, also looked after their temporal well 
being. These people were semi-agricultural, liv- 
ing in villages and having little fields of maize, 
beans, squash and cotton. The padres gave them 
seeds of new varieties of grain and vegetables, and 
even helped them make a start raising horses, 
sheep and cattle. The success thus gained may be 
gathered by a letter written by Father Kino him- 
self: 

"The greater the means, the greater our obliga- 



SPANISH MISSION DAYS 57 

tion to seek the salvation of so many souls in the 
very fertile lands and valleys of these new con- 
quests and conversions. There are already rich 
and abundant fields, plantings and crops of wheat, 
maize, frijoles, chickpeas, beans, lentils ... in 
them vineyards, . . . reed brakes of sweet 
cane for syrup and panoche. . . . There are 
many fruit trees, as figs, quinces, oranges, . . . 
with all sorts of garden stuff, . . . garlic, let- 
tuce, . . . Castilian roses, white lilies." 

Mining in Arizona, too, had its first slight begin- 
ning in early Jesuit times, for our diligent and 
practical father mentions more than once veins 
of minerals which he had seen in various parts of 
the country. 

In 1694, acting on information he received from 
the Indians, our Padre Kino visited the since 
famous pre-historic ruins on the Gila, now known 
as the Casa Grande, being doubtless the first white 
man to see them. It is also interesting to note that, 
although the present church building at the mis- 
sion of San Xavier del Bac was not commenced 
until many years afterwards, it is recorded that 
in 1701 Father Kino laid the foundation for a large 
church at that place. 

In 1710, at the age of seventy, while still actively 
engaged in this work, this intrepid old soldier of 
the cross passed to his reward. It is told that dur- 
ing his mission work he baptized no less than 
forty-eight thousand Indians. Of him Calvijero 
says : "In all of his journeys he carried no other 
food than roasted corn; he never omitted to cele- 



58 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

brate Holy Mass and never slept on a mattress. 
As he wandered about he prayed incessantly or 
sang hymns or songs. He died as saintly as he 
lived." 

At the time of Father Kino's death the only 
permanent mission existing in what is now Ari- 
zona was at Guevavi, and what with the hostility 
of the Apaches and the weakness of the garrisons, 
the padres were unable to do missionary work 
north of that place for the next twenty years. 
Indeed, it is quite likely that no Spaniards what- 
ever entered the district unless it was an occa- 
sional expedition of the soldiers from Fronteras. 
By 1732, however, conditions had so changed that 
the Jesuits were able to make San Xavier del Bac 
a permanent mission, placing Father Felipe Seges- 
ser in charge, while Juan Bautista Grasshoff er was 
made the resident priest at Guevavi. From that 
time on there were gathered at these two places 
Indian neophytes who received spiritual instruc- 
tion from the padres and labored under their 
direction. 

As we know, the Spaniards were ever in search 
of the precious metals. An attempt, at least, at 
mining in Pimeria Alta was made early in 1726, 
and ten years later, at Arizonac, southwest of Gue- 
vavi and just south of the Arizona line, the famous 
Planchas de Plata were discovered. Here great 
plates or balls of native silver were found; one 
immense lump, it is said, weighed nearly three 
thousand pounds. In fact, the mine was so rich 
that when the fame of the strike reached Spain 
the king promptly appropriated it for himself. 



SPANISH MISSION DAYS 59 

In the meantime affairs at the missions, both 
in Arizona and Sonora, were going in a way not at 
all idealistic. The Pima and Papago Indians, from 
which tribes were gathered most of the neophytes, 
although comparatively tractable and peace-lov- 
ing, were wholly unused to disciphne and the 
white man's standard of labor. The zealous fathers 
seemed to have pushed them rather far, for on 
November 21, 1751, through the entire district of 
Pimeria Alta, the Pimas and Papagos joined the 
Ceres in a bloody revolt. The two priests in charge 
of San Xavier and Guevavi fled to Suamca in 
Sonora, which was protected by a nearby presidio. > 
Two other of the padres were killed at their mis- ^ 
sions in Sonora, as were about a hundred other 
Spaniards. Smelting furnaces that had been 
erected were destroyed by the Indians, and mine 
shafts filled in wherever found. 

By some means, within the next two years, 
priests and parishioners were reconciled; possibly 
the presidio, or garrison, which was established at 
Tubac in the Santa Cruz Valley, 1752, may have 
been a potent influence to that end. In any event 
the friars returned to Guevavi and San Xavier, 
and in 1754 established an important visita at 
Tumacacori, conveniently near the soldiers of the 
new garrison. 

We now read of Spanish colonists beginning 
to come up from the south, and see mentioned the 
name of Tucson, which is spoken of as an Indian 
village the fathers visited from San Xavier. 

The friars seemed to have attained some suc- 
cess in regaining the confidence of their charges 



60 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

when suddenly, in 1767, King Charles III expelled 
all of the Jesuits from his kingdom. Several rea- 
sons are given for this act: that it was the influ- 
ence of the Freemasons in the Spanish court; that 
the Pima uprising showed incompetency on the 
part of the fathers in charge; that the enemies of 
the order had showed the king a forged letter 
purporting to be from the Jesuit superior general 
and containing allegations that seriously affected 
the monarch's title to the crown. In any event a 
devoted and zealous body of earnest workers who, 
whatever mistakes they may have made, labored 
unselfishly in the face of grave dangers, were 
abruptly discharged with no, thanks from the coun- 
try whose frontier they had tried so hard to civil- 
ize. The church records show that altogether 
there were nineteen of the order who worked in 
this field. 

Immediately upon their removal the mission 
property was turned over to the royal comisario, 
and the Marquis de Croix, then viceroy of Mexico, 
sent an urgent appeal to the Franciscan college at 
Queretero, Mexico, asking for at least twelve 
priests of that order. 

In response to this request fourteen Francis- 
cans were sent to Sonora and there assigned to the 
different missions throughout the district. The 
church property was formally turned over to the 
order, and each friar was allowed by the crown 
the meager stipend of $300 a year towards defray- 
ing the expenses of his work. 

A year had elapsed since the Jesuits had gone. 



SPANISH MISSION DAYS 61 

and the two missions in Arizona, Guevavi and 
San Xavier, were in a deplorable condition. Not 
only had the property been sadly neglected by the 
civil custodians, but also the year of freedom from 
restraint enjoyed by the neophytes made the dis- 
cipline imposed upon them seem very irksome. 
Gradually, however, some of the Indians returned; 
some, who were wholly under the care of the 
padres, were furnished food and clothing for them- 
selves and families; others simply worked for pay 
by the day. 

Of all of the Franciscans in Pimeria by far the 
most conspicuous figure was Father Francisco 
Garces, who was assigned to San Xavier with the 
Indian village of Tucson as a visita. He was a 
younger man on entering his work than Father 
Kino, but no one could have been more zealous 
in his labors, more unmindful of the dangers of a 
hostile frontier, or more undaunted by the poverty 
of the missions. His faith and courage lifted him 
to a plane where failure could not reach him. 

So great were his zeal and piety that it was felt 
even by the Indians, who venerated him as an 
oracle and a holy man. However, he could be as 
stern with those who were hostile to his teachings 
as he was patient and kindly to those who listened. 

As an object lesson, he had a servant carry 
before him a large banner, which on one side 
portrayed the likeness of the Virgin Mary, and on 
the other a picture of a lost soul, writhing in the 
flames of hell. If, on visiting a new community, 
the natives were hospitable, he turned to them the 



62 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

picture of the mother of Jesus; if unfriendly, the 
lost soul was exhibited as a warning of their own 
inevitable fate. 

The first missionary journey of Father Garces 
was made to the Gila country within a few months 
of his arrival at San Xavier. The young padre 
kept a very complete diary, and what he tells of 
the various tribes is full of interest. The Pimas 
and Coco-Maricopas lived in much the same coun- 
try they do now, and Father Garces was especially 
impressed with the amount of cotton they grew, 
which they wove into blankets for both their men 
and women. The men also wore a cotton breech- 
cloth, while the women clad themselves in a short 
skirt made of the same material. 

While the Pimas, Papagos and Coco-Maricopas 
treated the priests with uniform kindness, the 
Apaches continued to be a perpetual menace, raid- 
ing the missions whenever the opportunity offered 
and ready at all times for both thievery and 
murder. 

Early in his ministry Father Garces became 
ill, and Fray Gil, who was in charge of Guevavi, 
came to assist him. In Gil's absence, the Apaches 
sacked Guevavi, damaged the mission building 
and killed all but two of the little band of soldiers 
that was guarding it. 

Later the same year the Apaches attacked San 
Xavier, destroying the mission buildings, but under 
Garces' direction it was quickly repaired. 

In spite of continuous obstacles and dangers, 
the mission showed steady improvement. In 1772 



SPANISH MISSION DAYS 63 

there was at San Xavier a fairly capacious adobe 
church building with, including men, women and 
children, two hundred parishioners. They had cul- 
tivated fields and cared for considerable live stock. 
At the visita of San Jose del Tucson there were 
about two hundred people, but no place of wor- 
ship, so some time during the year the zealous 
Fray Francisco Garces built at the foot of a hill, 
called "El Cerro del Tucson," a stone church, a 
mission house with a wall of adobe around it, as 
a protection against the Apaches. The pueblo 
stood about half a mile west of the present city of 
Tucson. 

At this time Guevavi had eighty-six people, the 
Indians there doing a little farming. Tumacacori 
had a population of ninety-three, but though there 
were both church and priest house, there was no 
minister in charge. There was also a small unfin- 
ished church at San Ignacio, just east of Guevavi. 
Calabasas, in the same district, was a visita with 
sixty-four people but no church. Add to this a 
little military post at Tubac, with less than fifty 
soldiers, and we have practically all of the mission 
communities of Arizona. 

As early as Father Kino's time it had been the 
ambition of both the padre and the military au- 
thorities to establish an overland route between 
the missions of Pimeria Alta and those of Cali- 
fornia. Finally, to this end, in 1774, Captain Juan 
Bautista de Anza, comandante of the presidio at 
Tubac, undertook the establishment of a trail. On 
January 8th he left Tubac with thirt>^-four soldiers, 



64 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

going by the way of Caborca on the River Altar, 
then northwest to the junction of the Gila and 
Colorado, and then, after a difficult march across 
the desert, on to San Gabriel, near Los Angeles. 
On this expedition the church was represented by 
Padres Garces and Juan Diaz, both of whom were 
interested in the Yuma and other Indian tribes liv- 
ing on the Colorado, and among whom there had 
been much talk of establishing a mission. 

In September, 1775, De Anza led a second party 
into California, starting from Horcasitas, and going 
through San Xavier down the Gila. This expedi- 
tion journeyed as far as the Golden Gate in Cali- 
fornia, where they founded a settlement, which in 
time became San Francisco. 

Early in the year of 1776, while Adams, Han- 
cock and their associates on the Atlantic Coast 
were occupied with events leading up to a famous 
Declaration of Independence concerning one King 
George, Father Garces, with his banner borne 
before him, thinking of very different matters in- 
deed, was journeying northward up the west bank 
of the Colorado River into unknown country, hop- 
ing to reach the Hopis, to whom he was especially 
anxious to preach the gospel. He encountered the 
Mohave and Chemehuevi Indians, probably near 
the present town of Parker, who received him cor- 
dially. After making a casual side trip of a hun- 
dred miles or so to south central California, he 
returned to Arizona and journeyed trails hereto- 
fore untrodden by white men into central Arizona. 
Somewhere near Prescott he met the Yavapai 



SPANISH MISSION DAYS 65 

tribe, and induced five of them to act as his guides 
to Hopi land. 

En route to the pueblos they visited the Havasu 
Indians, who lived then as they do now, down in 
the depths of the picturesque and beautiful Cata- 
ract Canyon, and marveled much over the charm 
of the spot. 

When he reached Oraibe, the cliff city of the 
Hopis, he found the natives still most antagonistic 
to the religion of the Spaniards. While offering 
the sorely disappointed Father Garces no violence, 
they would neither receive the simple gifts he had 
brought them, nor allow him to remain. They had 
no objection to the friar as a man, and permitted 
him to take his burros to the sheep corral and 
wander through the town, which he did with much 
curiosity, recording what he did and saw most 
minutely in his diary. 

The people gave every evidence not only of 
superior intelligence, but of considerable material 
prosperity. The houses, he said, were of more 
than one story in height, with doors closed by bolts 
and keys of wood. 

They had sheep, which, of course, came from 
the Spanish settlements on the Rio Grande, and 
Father Garces notes with interest that the ewes 
were larger than those of Sonora. Also, he said, 
they raised chickens, had gardens in which grew 
all of the common vegetables, and besides that, 
little orchards of peach trees. Their clothing was 
both picturesque and well made, the women wear- 
ing woolen smocks made of blanketing, sleeveless 



66 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

and reaching to the heels. Over this was worn a 
second smock of black or white with a girdle of 
various colors. Some of the men wore leathern 
jackets fitted with sleeves, and they completed 
their apparel with trousers and moccasins. 

That night, evidently believing that the friar's 
presence would make "bad medicine," the Pueb- 
lans would not allow Father Garces to enter their 
houses, so, forced to sleep in the street, he writes 
that his rest was disturbed by the harangues of 
different local orators and the playing of a flute. 

After remaining at the Hopi villages for three 
days, he was told definitely that it was time for 
him to depart. With crucifix raised before him, 
he made a final appeal, but the Indians would 
have nothing of his teaching, and gently but firmly 
escorted him to the edge of the town. 

Sadly disheartened by his failure, he returned 
to the Colorado River, journeying southward 
through the land of the Mojaves, and then east- 
ward, again visiting the Coco-Maricopas and 
Pimas. 

He reached San Xavier September 17th, after 
a journey of over twenty-five hundred miles, in 
the course of which he visited nine tribes and met 
some twenty-five thousand Indians. 

Since the establishment of the church at the 
"Pueblito del Tucson" four years earlier, this set- 
tlement seems to have steadily grown in impor- 
tance. Spanish settlers came there and the same 
year that Father Garces made his long journey to 
the Hopi country military quarters were erected 



SPANISH MISSION DAYS 67 

there, and the soldiers moved north from Tubac to 
occupy them. About this time the settlement 
seems to have taken unto itself a new patron saint, 
for hereafter, instead of being known as San Jose 
del Tucson, it was called San Agustin del Pueblito 
del Tucson. Fancy a Southern Pacific brakeman 
announcing such a name to a car of passengers ! 

Naturally the settlers at Tubac made a vigorous 
protest against the abandonment of their military 
post, but they seem to have received scant satis- 
faction from the authorities, who not only did not 
return the soldiers, but insisted that certain set- 
tlers who wished to leave for Mexico must stay 
where they were. 

The Franciscans were ever desirous of reaching 
farther into the frontier with their missions, and 
the crown administrators appreciated thoroughly 
that no other pioneers could, at so little cost to the 
State, so successfully enlarge their country's bor- 
ders. So it was that when Padre Garces and 
accompanying friars had, with Captain de Anza, 
visited the rich delta country of the Colorado 
where the Yuma Indians had their productive 
fields, both the representatives of the church and 
the military had been impressed with the thought 
that this would make an ideal spot for a new 
religious center. 

However, both Captain de Anza and Father 
Garces were of the opinion that it would be dan- 
gerous to establish a mission unless it could be 
strongly guarded by soldiers, for while the Yumas 
were agricultural, they were far more warlike 



68 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

than either the Pimas or Papagos, and the upris- 
ing of 1751 had not been forgotten. The powers 
higher up finally gave orders for the establishment 
of such a mission, but there were many things that 
made for delaj^s, and it was not until early in 1779 
that Father Garces and Father Juan Diaz were 
given orders to hold themselves in readiness to 
proceed to the country of the Yumas as soon as 
the necessary military force and supplies could be 
obtained. Then came more waiting when, finally, 
an army of twelve privates and a sergeant were 
furnished as the military equipment of the peril- 
ous undertaking and the intrepid dozen and one, 
together with the two priests, made the journey 
to the Colorado. 

The executive head of the Indians at that time 
was one Chief Palma, a dignitary of no mean sta- 
tion, for he had not only received a military deco- 
ration from Captain de Anza, but had been to the 
City of Mexico and been baptized in the cathedral. 

The loaves and fishes of the religion of the 
Spaniards had been very attractive to this Indian 
warrior. Coincident with the establishment of the 
proposed mission, Palma had been promised an 
unlimited amount of smoking tobacco, which he 
very much enjoyed; and a fine suit of clothes, 
entirely superfluous, considering the climate of 
Yuma and the sartorial habits of his tribe, but 
adding greatly to his dignity and standing. There- 
fore he was very anxious for the mission to be 
established. 

Naturally, the amount of gratuities which the 



SPANISH MISSION DAYS 69 

two priests were able to bring with them was very 
small, and the disgruntled aboriginal executive 
received the ecclesiastical arrivals with tempered 
cordiality. Nevertheless, the tact of Father Garces 
seems to have tided things over pretty well until a 
year later, when twenty-one soldiers, twelve 
laborers and twenty colonists journeyed over the 
deserts to the new settlement, each bringing with 
him a wife and a family of children. 

To make their welcome at the hands of the 
expectant savages doubly sure, these new colonists 
calmly took possession of what Indian fields they 
wanted, and asked the natives the old question, 
"What are you going to do about it?" For the 
time being it seemed nothing was done about it, 
and a pueblo was established on the west side of 
the river at the mouth of the Gila, which was 
called Concepcion, and a second village was laid 
out three leagues farther south and christened the 
unassuming name of San Pedro y San Pablo de 
Bicuner. 

For nearly two years the colonies maintained 
a precarious existence. The Yumas, next to the 
Apaches, were considered the most dangerous In- 
dians of the Southwest; add to that fact that the 
soldiers were brutal and licentious and we find a 
condition that made disaster a little less than 
inevitable. 

The padres, who realized fully the harvest that 
all this was leading to, did all they could to restrain 
their countrj'men and placate the Indians, but the 
trouble was past mending. 



70 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

The proverbial last straw was laid upon the 
none too patient camel's back in June of 1781 
through the aggressions of a new arrival of sol- 
diers. Captain Fernando Rivers, lieutenant- 
governor of Lower California, with a party of sol- 
diers and emigrants, stopped at Concepcion on his 
way to Santa Barbara. Part of his expedition he 
sent on to California, part back to Sonora, while, 
with a handful of soldiers, he remained, camping 
on the east side of the Colorado, where he pastured 
his horses and cattle — nearly a thousand head — 
upon the mesquite beans on which the Yumas 
largely depended for food. 

On Tuesday, June 17, 1781, the lightning struck! 
At Concepcion, while in the very act of celebrating 
mass. Father Garces was clubbed to death by the 
natives for whom he had labored so earnestly. 
The comandante of the village, who was also in the 
church at the time, was killed in trying to reach 
his command, as was the corporal who followed 
him. It is recorded that the heroic Garces gave 
the dying soldier absolution even though he was 
at the point of death himself. 

At Bicuner, the two priests, Diaz and Moreno, 
were killed, and, after having desecrated the 
images and altar, the savages destroyed the church. 

They next attacked the force of Captain Rivera, 
and although the Spaniards entrenched themselves 
and made a valiant defense, within a few hours 
the last man was killed. 

Two friars, through the aid of Chief Palma, 
who it seems was not wholly in accord with his 



SPANISH MISSION DAYS 71 

bloody tribesmen, succeeded in getting clear of 
the settlement, but were finally pursued and killed. 

When the news of the massacre reached the 
comandante of the military forces. General de 
Croix, he at once began plans for the severest 
retributive measures. Though chafing under the 
delay, it was a year before he could spare the nec- 
essary force, but in September, 1782, he sent a 
hundred and sixty soldiers, who, combining with 
a company of Spaniards and allied friendly In- 
dians from California, engaged the Yumas to 
deadly purpose. They did thorough work, one 
hundred and ten of the Yumas were killed, with 
eighty-five captured and ten Christian prisoners 
recovered. 

The story was told by the liberated captives 
that after the massacre the Yumas would not live 
in the vicinity of Concepcion, for every night a 
ghostly procession of the slain would wend its way 
about the mission, each carrying a candle, while a 
tall figure in white walked at its head, bearing a 
cross. 

It must be remembered that, however much 
the Spaniards suffered from the Yumas, there had 
been provocation for their ghastly work. No such 
extenuation could be credited to the Apaches. 
With them raids upon weaker people, either red 
men or white, for the purpose of plunder, was part 
of the plain matter of living, and the murders 
which accompanied these predatory acts were 
often committed in pure wantonness. So persistent 
were they in their attacks upon the settlements in 



72 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

the Santa Cruz Valley and other parts of Pimeria 
Alta that, in 1786, General Ugarte, the comandante, 
began a vigorous campaign against them in which 
work he was gladly aided by organized companies 
of Pima and Opata allies. 

Diplomacy as well as military prowess seems 
to have had a part in these operations, for at the 
end of an energetic campaign a treaty was inade 
wherein the Indians were to be furnished rations 
which cost the crown from $18,000 to $30,000 a 
year, and a policy adopted thereafter which surely 
should meet with the approval of those who con- 
sider that the gentle Apaches would never have 
given Arizona any trouble had it not been for the 
unkind treatment afforded them by the whites. 
The old chronicle says that they were furnished 
with supplies, encouraged to form settlements near 
the presidios, and as a crowning consideration, 
taught to drink intoxicating liquors. 

Still, even with all this thoughtfulness, occa- 
sionally not only the Apaches, but even independ- 
ent groups of the younger Pimas and Papagos went 
raiding. However, the military forces seem to 
have been strong enough to promptly bring them 
back to the paths of peace and mescal, and so 
quiet was the time in comparison with what went 
both before and after that from 1787 to 1815 may 
be considered almost the golden period of mission 
history — or at least gilded well enough so in look- 
ing back through the vista of a century it reflects 
a golden glamour not wholly unpleasant. Not only 
were the missions prosperous, but settlers came in 



SPANISH MISSION DAYS 73 

from Mexico, and stock raising and farming were 
engaged in in favored localities. Trade was car- 
ried on with Sonora by means of pack trains. 
Strongly guarded by armed escorts, the arieros 
would load their pack mules with hides, wool, 
buckskin and rich ore, and take the long journey 
over hills and deserts to Hermosillo or Guaymas 
and bring back zarapes, mantillas, cloth, sugar, 
imported wines, jewels and silver coins. 

Cattle and horses were raised along the Santa 
Cruz and the San Pedro, and in such ranchos as 
the San Bernardino, and driven down to the port 
of Guaymas and turned into Spanish gold. 

It was probably just prior to this time that a 
beginning was made on the present beautiful mis- 
sion of San Xavier. Padre Baltasar Carillo was 
in charge of the mission from 1780 to 1794, and it 
is fairly well established that the work was started 
early in his administration. 

There is a date, "1797," cut on one of the inner 
doors of the church, which very likely records the 
year of the structure's completion. This was dur- 
ing the administration of Padre Carillo's former 
assistant. Padre Narciso Gutierres, who in turn 
was assisted at different times by Mariano Bardoy, 
Ramon Lopes and Angel Alonzo de Prado. 

It will be noticed that all, with perhaps one 
exception, are very characteristic Spanish names, 
and it is to these men who built for the glory of 
God rather than for their own aggrandizement 
that the honor of making possible this beautiful 
structure erected in the midst of the desert is due. 



74 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Under the administration of these devoted 
fathers we may picture Arizona mission life at its 
best. We can hear the mellow tones of the bells 
in the tower of San Xavier filling the little valley 
of the Santa Cruz with their music. We can see 
in the early morning the Indian neophytes, stolid, 
but wholly devout, with uncovered heads and san- 
daled feet, assemble for matutinal prayers, and 
the rite once over, watch them with clear con- 
science shuffling off to breakfast of corn cakes and 
frijoles to discuss the cock-fight scheduled for the 
following Sunday afternoon. 

As the day proceeds we witness an animated 
picture. At a brickyard a vigorous padre, with his 
gown tucked up out of the way of his feet, is di- 
recting the firing of a kiln; at the smithy, a friar 
blacksmith is cunningly fashioning hinges for a 
door to the church or putting a bolt in an ox bow, 
which, by the way, will be tied to the beast's horns. 
Woodworkers are making boards with hand saws 
from timbers brought down from the Santa Cata- 
lina Mountains on the backs of mules or burros, 
and in the fields are Indians irrigating or weeding 
the mission gardens. At noon there are more corn 
cakes, prayers and frijoles ; in the afternoon, more 
work; in the evening, mission bells again bring in 
the tired workers to spiritual and material nour- 
ishment. The day, especially if it is Saturday, may 
be closed by a baile where the Indians dance on 
the hard ground to the music of the harp and the 
guitar. Yet we hear that some of the neophytes, 
preferring paganism vdth indolence to piety cou- 
pled with labor, would occasionally run away ! 



SPANISH MISSION DAYS 75 

At Guevavi, the oldest mission of Arizona, there 
never seems to have been more than a small adobe 
church, but at Tumacacori a very beautiful mission 
building was erected. Fray Beltasar Carillo was 
at Tumacacori from 1794 to 1798, and Fray Gutier- 
res from that time until 1820, and it is likely to 
these men, who did the building at San Xavier, 
should be given the credit for Tumacacori as well. 

The mission of San Xavier del Bac, beyond all 
question the most beautiful edifice in the South- 
west, is kept in fairly good repair. On the other 
hand, Tumacacori, which was not only more beau- 
tiful but far more ambitious than many of the 
California missions of nation-wide fame, is now, 
through most deplorable neglect, in sad decay. 

Beginning with the Mexican wars of independ- 
ence against Spanish rule, the short years of the 
prosperity of the missions of Pimeria Alta came 
swiftly to an end. From 1811 on, money and food 
were inadequately and irregularly supplied the 
soldiers at the garrisons, and the military force 
became thoroughly disorganized. Rations to the 
Apaches also were cut down, and in consequence 
the redskins promptly resumed their old habits of 
stealing stock, raiding ranches and murdering 
settlers. 

The padres did the best they could to hold their 
neophytes together, but on September 2, 1827, came 
the end of mission days. With the independence 
of Mexico achieved, orders were given at the capi- 
tal for the expulsion of the Franciscans, and they 
soon left the country. 



76 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

San Xavier was placed under the charge of the 
secular parish priest at Magdalena, but that was 
miles away, and naturally visits could be made 
but rarely. 

In a letter written in 1835, Don Ignacio Zuniga, 
former commander of the northern presidios, 
stated that since 1820 no less than five thousand 
lives had been lost in Pimeria, and that at least a 
hundred ranchos, haciendas, mining camps and 
other settlements had been destroyed, and from 
three thousand to four thousand settlers had been 
obliged to quit the northern frontiers. He also 
speaks of the hostility of the Pimas and Papagos, 
who had doubtless suffered at the hands of the 
military, as well as from the usual raids of the 
Apaches. 

A melancholy ending, surely, for a period that 
had promised so much — Guevavi, Tumacacori and 
San Ignacio deserted, a squalid town at Tubac, 
another but little better at Tucson, where the in- 
habitants depended more on the adobe wall for 
protection than on the soldiers, and San Xavier 
with priestless altar and silent bells. 

But the one bright ray perhaps in all this 
depressing cloud was the fact that the Papago 
neophytes did not forget — but hid securely the 
altar furniture for the time when their simple 
faith told them the fathers would return, and kept 
the affection for them in their hearts. 

We shall see later that this faith was not unre- 
warded. 



Chapter IV 
THE ARRIVAL OF THE AMERICANS 

THE efforts of Mexico to free herself from the 
rule of Spain had their beginning in 1810 
with the revolution inspired by Hidalgo, 
the fearless, liberty-loving curate of Durango. 
Although after brief successes Hidalgo suffered 
death at the hands of the king's soldiers, the cause 
triumphed, and in 1822, with the treaty signed by 
General Iturbide for Mexico and Viceroy O'Donoju 
for Spain, the independence of the country was 
achieved. 

However, even independence does not solve all 
of a nation's civil problems. In 1822, with great 
acclaim, Iturbide was crowned emperor; in 1823 
he was compelled to give back his crown; in 1824 
he^was executed by the new republic. What makes 
this of special interest to the Arizonan is that his 
state within those three years was a colony of the 
king of Spain, an outlying district of a New 
World monarch and a territory of the Republic 
of Mexico. 

In 1824 the new constituent congress joined New 
Mexico to Chihuahua and Durango in one "Estado 
Interno del Norte." As the capital was to be lo- 
cated in Chihuahua, Durango objected to the 
arrangement, whereupon the obliging law-makers 



78 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

made a territory of New Mexico and formed 
Chihuahua and Durango into states. 

The capital of New Mexico was, of course, 
Santa Fe, which then contained a population of 
about forty-five hundred people, and while the 
houses were of adobe, they were comfortable and 
picturesque, being built around a central court or 
patio. They were furnished simply, and bright- 
ened with Navajo blankets. 

Altogether that part of New Mexico had a popu- 
lation of over twenty thousand whites and eight 
thousand friendly Pueblo Indians. Along the 
upper Rio Grande were irrigated rarichos, rich in 
horses, cattle, grains, sheep and fruit. A good 
wine was made and there was a steady commerce 
between the territory and Chihuahua City. 

In contrast to this prosperity, in the western 
part of the territory — the present Arizona — by rea- 
son of the constant menace of the Apaches, things 
were in a sad condition. All the ranches had been 
abandoned, and the only Spanish settlements were 
the villages of Tubac and Tucson, whose existence 
was made possible by small garrisons of soldiers. 
At Tucson there was the additional protection of 
a surrounding adobe wall. 

The only mines that were worked to any extent 
in this section under Spanish or Mexican rule were 
the Planchas de Plata already mentioned and the 
Santa Rita del Cobre copper mines, which were 
located at the foot of Ben Moore Mountain, nine 
miles from the modern Silver City. 

The Santa Rita was worked as early as 1804, 



ARRIVAL OF THE AMERICANS 79 

and the ore extracted was so rich that it was sent 
by pack animals to Chihuahua, where it was con- 
verted into the copper coinage of the country. 

Three mines were included in the Planchas de 
Plata group, the Las Cruces, the Tupustetes, and 
the Arizona or Arizuma, from which great chunks 
of pure silver were taken, one mass alone weigh- 
ing 2,700 pounds! Both the Santa Rita and the 
Planchas de Plata mines had to be deserted from 
time to time on account of attacks by the Apaches. 

The first citizen of note from the United States 
to penetrate into the Southwest was Lieut. Zebulon 
M. Pike, who, in 1806, with twenty-two men, was 
sent by his superiors to explore the country of the 
Arkansas and Red rivers. In January of 1807 he 
built a small fort on the upper waters of the Rio 
Grande, in Spanish territory, believing, as he after- 
wards explained, that he was on the American side 
of the Red River. 

He was arrested by Spanish dragoons and taken 
to Governor Alencaster at Santa Fe, who treated 
him as a guest rather than a prisoner, but never- 
theless took him on to Chihuahua to explain mat- 
ters to the military chief. General Salcedo. 

When Pike returned to the States his account 
of the richness of the Spanish settlements in New 
Mexico created much excitement not only among 
the adventurers, but also among the enterprising 
frontier merchants who were always ready to send 
argosies into danger where there was a chance 
for large profit. 

The romantic story of the "Trail" that was 



80 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

made from Independence, Missouri, to Santa Fe 
and the great caravans of mule and ox teams that 
went over it is well known. 

From 1822 to 1844 were the halcyon days of 
dangers braved, adventures encountered and for- 
tunes won. The amount of merchandise carried 
over the trail the first year was $15,000; the last, 
$450,000. 

Naturally, many of the bolder spirits among 
those who went to Santa Fe ultimately made their 
way yet farther west. As a result, early in 1824, 
while the Franciscans were still holding mass at 
San Xavier and Tumacacori, American trappers 
and hunters were exploring the Gila, Salt, Colo- 
rado and other rivers, finding in favorable locali- 
ties plenty of beaver and an abundance of game 
almost everywhere they went. 

There were at that time fourteen or more tribes 
of Indians in Arizona, which were scattered pretty 
much all over the state. Many of these tribes, like 
the Pimas, were uniformly hospitable to the new- 
comers; others, like the Mojaves, were friendly 
enough if treated with tact, but quick to resent ill 
treatment; and still a third class, as was the case 
with the Yumas, were almost always either sus- 
picious or actively hostile. 

The Apaches were divided into a number of 
small clans, including the Chiricahuas, Mimbres, 
Pinalenos, Coyoteros, Aravaipas, Tontos, San Car- 
los, the Mojave Apaches and the Yuma Apaches. 

To understand the Apache one must get his 
point of view. To him life was a perpetual war- 



ARRIVAL OP THE AMERICANS 81 

fare. If a neighboring tribe had something that 
he wanted, and he was strong or cunning enough 
to get it, there was no reason why he should not 
take it; and, as we have seen before, the slaying 
of an antagonist on a raid was simply an incident 
of the business in hand — a sort of Frederick the 
Great or Napoleon point of view. Add to this that 
the Apache was ever ready to avenge a wrong ten- 
fold, and one can begin to understand why, down 
to as late as 1886, he was the perpetual Sword of 
Damocles that hung over the Arizona pioneer. 

In justice to the Indian, however, it must be 
said that in his trouble with the whites he was not 
always the aggressor. Sometimes the white man 
was as bad as the Apache with less excuse for his 
depravity. 

There is an old story, the scene of which is laid 
at the Santa Rita copper mine, of which many 
variations are told, and in which there is probably 
enough truth to be an illuminating commentary 
on conditions in the Southwest at that time. Dur- 
ing 1838, so one account gives the date, the Mim- 
bres Apaches, under their chief, Juan Jose, who 
lived along the present Arizona-New Mexico 
boundary, were giving so much trouble to the trap- 
pers and the Mexicans who were working the 
Santa Rita mines that drastic retaliatory measures 
were decided upon. At this time there were sev- 
eral parties of trappers on the headwaters of the 
Gila. The captain of one of these was an English- 
man by the name of James Johnson, who sug- 
gested a plan whereby the Mimbres would be 



82 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

"settled" for all time. After arranging the matter 
with the managers of the Santa Rita, he invited 
Juan Jose and his people to come to the mine for 
a big feed. Within a hundred yards of the place 
selected for the feast, and pointing directly at the 
spot, Johnson concealed a six-pound howitzer, 
loaded to the muzzle with slugs, musket balls and 
nails, under a pile of pack saddles. A sack of flour 
was given the Indians to divide, and while the 
Indians crowded about it Johnson touched his 
lighted cigar to the vent of the gun, killing and 
wounding a score or more, among them Juan Jose. 
The massacre, so the stories go, was completed by 
other trappers and Mexicans. 

The surviving members fled, but only to plot a 
fearful revenge. The copper mines were wholly 
dependent on Chihuahua for supplies, which were 
brought in guarded pack trains. After the mas- 
sacre the time for the train came and passed with 
no word concerning it. Finally, the provisions 
were all but exhausted. The only hope the miners 
and their families had of escaping starvation was 
to cross the deserts that lay between the mines and 
the settlements. They started, but the Apaches, 
who had destroyed the train, attacked and killed 
them all but four or five, who, after suffering 
incredible hardships, finally reached Chihuahua. 

Many stories, diff'ering wholly in detail, but 
agreeing in essential parts, are told of John Glan- 
ton, another candidate for perpetuation in the 
halls of infamy. About 1845 depredations by the 
Apaches became so continuous that the Mexican 



AERIVAJj OF THE AMERICANS 83 

authorities, joined by wealthy rancheros, offered 
$100 for the scalp of every Apache warrior, $50 for 
the scalp of a squaw and $25 for that of a child. 
Glanton became covetous for some of this blood 
money, but disliking the dangers incident to track- 
ing the wary Apache, decided that the hair cover- 
ing the peaceful Pima did not greatly differ from 
that of the quarry upon whom the reward had 
been set, so took to pot-shooting not only friendly 
Indians, but even Mexicans themselves, exchanging 
the scalps for money at Chihuahua. However, it 
was a business that any conservative life insurance 
company would have classed as extra hazardous, 
and finally Glanton and his accomplices were 
caught red-handed while scalping Mexicans they 
had murdered. Glanton escaped to New Mexico, 
but was later killed by the Yuma Indians, who took 
his worthless life in payment for gold he had 
stolen from them. 

Prominent among the early trail makers of the 
state were Sylvester Pattie and his son, James, 
who entered the country in 1824. In an account 
afterwards written by James their adventures are 
graphically set forth and include many battles 
with the Indians, suffering from heat and thirst on 
the desert, perils by tidal waves on the Colorado, 
and finally the death of the elder Pattie in a Cali- 
fornia Spanish prison. 

The most picturesque of the pioneer adven- 
turers was undoubtedly Bill Williams, for whom 
Bill Williams Mountain and Bill Williams Fork 
were named. We hear of him in 1825, in the Far 



84 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Northwest, from which point he trapped and 
fought Indians as far south as Sonora. Long, 
sinewy and bony, with nose and chin almost meet- 
ing, he was the typical plainsman of the dime 
novel. He always rode an Indian pony, and his 
Mexican stirrups were as big as coal scuttles. His 
buckskin suit was bedaubed with grease until it 
had the appearance of polished leather; his feet 
were never incased in anything but moccasins, and 
his buckskin trousers had the traditional fringe on 
the outer seam. Naturally, Indian signs were an 
open book to him, and he was even readier to take 
a scalp than an Apache, who preferred to crush 
the heads of his victims and let the hair stay. At 
the age of sixty he died a natural death caused by 
a bullet from a Ute Indian. 

A far different type of man was Kit Carson, who 
was the ablest plainsman of them all, and more 
than once rendered valuable aid to the nation. He 
was Fremont's guide throughout his explorations, 
and to him rather than to his chief should have 
been given the title of "Pathfinder." 

He was a boy of seventeen when we first hear 
of him with a party of trappers on the Gila, and 
soon thereafter was a member of Ewing Young's 
party, where he gave a good account of himself in 
a battle with the Apaches. Originally from Ken- 
tucky, after 1832 he made his home in New Mexico, 
but was often in Arizona, where the Indians re- 
spected his character as well as his daring and skill 
with the rifle. Withal he was the most unassum- 
ing of men, never boasting, and with a voice as 



ARRIVAL OF THE AMERICANS 85 

soft as a woman's. In appearance he was rather 
below the average in height, but muscular and of 
almost incredible endurance. 



Chaptee V 
THE WAR WITH MEXICO 

OF the events causing the transfer of title of 
the present Arizona from Mexico to the 
United States the territory- saw but little. 
By proclamation, May 30, 1846, "President Polk 
announced the existence of a ''state of war" with 
Mexico, and in carrying out the plans for the inva- 
sion of New Mexico, Chihuahua and California, the 
Army of the West was organized, and its command 
given to Stephen W. Kearny. This army, as it 
moved westward from Bent's Fort on the Arkan- 
sas, numbered about fifteen hundred men, and 
included a regiment of Missouri cavabn^ Colonel 
Doniphan; three squadrons of dragoons, Major 
Sumner; two batteries of artillery, Major Clark; 
and two companies of infantry-. Captain Angney. 

It was, of course, the desire of the administra- 
tion at Washington to occupy this western terri- 
tors' ^s-ith as little bloodshed as possible, and to 
that end arts of diplomacy were invoked as well 
as the force of arms; so accompanied by Capt. 
Philip St. George Cooke, with an escort of soldiers, 
went James Magoffin on a "secret mission" to Gov- 
ernor Manuel Armijo at Santa Fe. 

Magoffin was a man of great tact and good fel- 
lowship who for years had been in the Santa Fe 
86 



THE WAE \VITH MEXICO 87 

trade and was well liked in New Mexico. Just 
what influence Magoffin brought to bear on the 
governor was never revealed, but it was conspicu- 
ously successful- Only a few days before, Armijo 
had issued a florid proclamation calling upon the 
people to rally in repulsing the American invaders. 
After his conference with Magoflin. although his 
people offered him substantial support, when the 
.\mericans reached Apache Canyon, which could 
have been defended by the Mexicans -with half 
their resources, .Armijo had fled to Chihuahua. 

Magoffin had more difficulty* in winning over 
Archuleta, the second in command, yet by appeal- 
ing to his amb ition and cupidity succeeded in over- 
coming his active opposition. As a result, when 
Keamy came up with his army, the Mexican forces 
had faded away. 

On August 18th, without any opposition what- 
ever, the Americans entered the city of Santa Fe, 
where they were cordially received by Lieutenant- 
Governor Virgil. Accompanied by a salute of thir- 
teen guns, the American flag was raised over the 
palacio of the Spanish governor. 

Without any delay. Keamy commenced work 
on the military post Fort Marcy, and on Septem- 
ber 22nd announced his plan of civil government 
Charles Bent an American, who was married to 
an estimable Mexican lady, was appointed gov- 
ernor, with Donaciano Virgil, a native New Mexi- 
can, secretary. For United States attorney, Francis 
P. Blair. Jr., afterwards famous as a statesman 
and soldier, was chosen. 



88 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Four days after the new officers had been sworn 
in, Kearny, now a brigadier-general, with two hun- 
dred dragoons, commenced his march to Cahfor- 
nia. He left behind him Colonel Doniphan, who 
afterwards captured Chihuahua. Col. SterUng 
Price, now on his way with the Mormon Battalion, 
was to stay ^ith the army at Santa Fe. 

Before Doniphan started south to commence 
his campaign in Chihuahua, he went to Bear 
Springs in the Navajo country-, where he had a con- 
ference with the leading chiefs of that tribe. The 
Navajos were, then as now, the strongest Indian 
nation of the Southwest, and although never show- 
ing the wanton, blood-thirst\' characteristics of the 
Apaches, for several years had been the traditional 
enemies of the Pueblan Indians and the Mexicans 
alike. They had stolen their flocks and herds, and 
had even at times carried away Pueblan women. 

In greeting Doniphan and his associates the 
Navajo chiefs displayed even,' cordialit\', express- 
ing their friendship and admiration for the Ameri- 
cans, but were equally outspoken regarding their 
detestation of the Mexicans, and could not under- 
stand why Doniphan should object to their raiding 
them. However, finally, fourteen of the chiefs 
signed a treat\' agreeing to be peaceable, which 
treat\% it may be added, as was characteristic of 
the Navajo, they soon broke. 

In Januar\', a little over three months after 
Kearny had left, a revolt, headed by Don Thomas 
Ortiz and Diego Archuleta, who had failed to re- 
ceive the honors and emoluments vaguely sug- 



THE ^APt WITH 3IEXIC0 89 

gested to him by Magoflfin, was plotted against the 
Americans. The plan was discovered, however, 
before it reached its consummation, and the lead- 
ers, like -\rmijo, fled precipitously into Mexico. 
Almost immediately afterwards a second revolt 
was planned and executed, many Pueblo Indians 
joining the disaffected Mexicans. Governor Bent, 
who was visiting in Taos, and other American offi- 
cials were murdered in a most barbarous manner. 

A Nigorous campaign against the rebels was 
inmiediately begun by Colonel Price, in the course 
of which several small but desperate engagements 
were fought The insurgents were finally deci- 
sively beaten and the leaders executed. 

In the meanwhile, on October 6, 1846. ten days 
out of Santa Fe, General Kearny met Kit Carson, 
with fifteen men. carrying important dispatches 
for Washington. From him General Kearny first 
learned the momentous news of the subjugation of 
California by Commodores Stockton and Sloat and 
Captain Fremont. After undertaking the forward- 
ing of Carson's papers on to Washington. Kearny 
induced the guide to accompany him to California. 

In addition to his dragoons Kearny had with 
him a train of pack mules and two mountain 
howitzers, but no wagons. 

On resuming his march. Kearny, now about 
two hundred and thirty miles below Santa Fe, went 
westward to the copper mines on the Gila River, 
and from thence followed down the course of the 
river. 

Soon after he entered what is now Arizona he 



90 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

encountered a band of Mimbres Apaches headed 
by Mangas Colorado, an Indian of gigantic stature, 
who later was almost continuously on the warpath 
against the whites. Although the Apaches made 
no attempt to rob or harass the Americans, the 
impression they made was not favorable. Later, 
when meeting a band of "Giland" Apaches, one of 
the chiefs suggested to Kearny that if he would 
raid the Mexican settlements of Sonora, in return 
for loot they would gladly give them plenty of rein- 
forcements. 

Upon being stopped by the precipitous walls of 
the box canyon of the Gila River, the Aravaipa 
Trail was taken to the San Pedro Valley, from 
whence the army returned to the Gila along a well- 
beaten Indian trail, probably the same one fol- 
lowed by Fray Marcos three hundred years before. 
From there on, in a general way, they followed the 
river to the Pima country, where the Indians re- 
ceived them most hospitably, offering melons, 
grains and provisions for sale. 

In the journal of Capt. A. R. Johnston, who 
accompanied the expedition, he says: 

"The Indians exhibit no sentiments of taciturn- 
ity; but, on the contrary, give vent to their thoughts 
and feelings without reason, laughing and chat- 
ting together; and a parcel of young girls, with 
long hair streaming to their waists, and no other 
covering than a clean white cotton blanket folded 
around their middle and extending to their knees, 
were as merry as any group of like age and sex to 
be met with in our own countrj\" 



THE WAR WITH MEXICO 91 

The Colorado River was crossed by the expedi- 
tion on November 24th, and on December 6th they 
encountered a superior force of Mexicans at San 
Pascual, well towards the Pacific. After a sharp 
engagement they drove them from the field in dis- 
order. However, the army of the Californians 
re-formed the next day, and although the attack 
they made on the Americans was unsuccessful, 
they cut off their further advance. 

As Kearny's men were wholly without supplies, 
the situation was desperate. To get word to the 
Americans, whom they believed to be in San Diego, 
that night Kit Carson, Lieutenant Beale and a 
friendly Indian crawled through the enemy's lines, 
and although sick with hunger and thirst, and their 
feet lacerated with cactus needles, they finally 
reached San Diego, where they found Commodore 
Stockton, who promptly sent back reinforcements 
with provisions. A day later the Americans 
entered San Diego in triumph. 

The Mormon Battalion, one of the divisions of 
Kearny's army which crossed Arizona on its way 
to California, was, both in its inception and his- 
tory, nothing less than remarkable. Its members, 
belonging to a religious sect that had been perse- 
cuted and driven from their homes in Illinois and 
Missouri, offered their services to do battle for and 
defend the very nation that had failed to give them 
protection. 

However, their actions were inspired probably 
by personal advantage as well as loyalty to the 
country. At the time of the beginning of the Mex- 



92 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

ican war, seeing that it would be impossible for 
them to return to their own homes, their leaders 
had decided to emigrate to some place in the Far 
West in the hope of finding a land where they 
could dwell without molestation. Doubtless it was 
the opportunity that it would give the soldiers to 
become acquainted with the possibilities of the 
West as a field for colonization that made the 
organization possible. 

The agreement between the Mormon leaders 
and the administration was that the recruits should 
enlist for a period of twelve months, with the un- 
derstanding that they were to march to California, 
receive pay and allowances during the time, and 
at the end of the year be discharged and allowed 
to keep their arms and accouterments. 

Five companies were finally mustered into the 
service, and a motley organization it must have 
been. It included the feeble as well as the strong, 
mere boys and the old and infirm; it was undis- 
ciplined and ill clad, and to cap the climax, they 
were to carry their women with them. 

Nevertheless, on July 20, 1846, they started west 
from Council Bluffs, Iowa, where they were mus- 
tered, and after great hardships, on October 9th, 
the first division of the battalion arrived at Santa 
Fe. Here they were put in command of Lieuten- 
ant-Colonel Cooke, who immediately tried to make 
some sort of a military organization out of the raw 
material. 

Realizing that it would be utterly impossible for 
the battalion in its present form to make the jour- 



THE WAR WITH MEXICO 93 

ney across the deserts of Arizona and California, 
those unfit for service were weeded out, reducing 
the number from five hundred to three hundred 
and fifty. Of the women, only five wives of officers 
were allowed to proceed with the journey, and 
they were obliged to furnish their own transporta- 
tion. 

Still, with all the care of preparation that Colo- 
nel Cooke could make, the start west, which com- 
menced October 19th, was inauspicious enough. 
The troops had sixty days' rations of flour, sugar, 
salt and coffee; salt pork for thirty days and soap 
for twenty. These supplies were to be carried in 
wagons, and as there had never a wagon, up to that 
time, crossed the territory, and roads other than 
Indians trails or paths over which the old Spanish 
caretas used to travel between Tucson and Sonora 
were absolutely unknown, some of the difficulties 
which faced the commander can be seen. 

On account of the wagons some of the rougher 
mountainous country over which Kearny's dra- 
goons journeyed was impassable for Cooke, who 
therefore led his troops in a general southwesterly 
direction into the state of Sonora to a point about 
fifteen miles north of the old Spanish presidio of 
Fronteras, and from there to the San Pedro River, 
where they turned north along its course. 

Here the soldiers saw large bands of wild 
horses, cattle and antelope. The cattle and horses 
were from the Mexican ranchos which had been 
abandoned on account of Indian troubles. 

There were Spanish bulls among them who 



94 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

seemed to object decidedly to the presence of the 
Americans in their domain. Time after time these 
animals charged the forces, and it was anything 
but a humorous matter to the men attacked, sev- 
eral of whom were severely wounded. Naturally, 
shortage in beef rations was immediately reme- 
died. 

December 14th Colonel Cooke came upon four 
Mexican soldiers. A sergeant who was in com- 
mand said they had been sent by Captain Coma- 
duron, comandante of Tucson, with the request 
that the Americans should not pass through the 
town. The colonel returned word to the com- 
mander that if the garrison was very weak he 
would probably not molest it, and added that the 
soldiers tell the people that the Americans were 
their friends and would be glad to trade with them. 

Continuing on their way, a day or so later, a 
second delegation from Tucson rode into camp 
and announced that they had been authorized by 
the comandante to make some sort of an armistice. 
After a discussion, Cooke told them he would be 
satisfied with the delivery of a few arms as a token 
of surrender and a parole. Sixteen miles from 
Tucson, Cooke was met by a third envoy, a 
mounted soldier, who simply delivered a note 
refusing the ferms offered and rode away. At this 
skirmishers were thrown out and the column made 
ready for an engagement, but before they had pro- 
ceeded far two Mexicans were met who advised 
them that the soldiers as well as most of the inhab- 
itants of the town had fled. 



THE WAR WITH MEXICO 95 

After camping on the desert over night, the 
Americans entered the town, where they found 
about a hundred people, perhaps a fifth of its 
population. 

Following the example of Kearny, Colonel 
Cooke assured the people that they would be 
treated with kindness, and left a diplomatic letter 
for Don Manuel Gandara, the governor of Sonora, 
insinuating that authorities at Washington were 
really better friends to him than the central gov- 
ernment at Mexico. 

The Mormons, of course, were much interested 
in the old barracks and the surrounding walls, but 
still more curious to learn what provisions could 
be had. Their eager search was rewarded by find- 
ing a quantity of wheat stored in the barracks. 

A three days' journey from Tucson brought the 
battalion to the edge of the Pima country, where 
these friendly Indians visited the camp, bringing 
letters from General Kearny and from his quarter- 
master which told of eleven broken down mules 
and two bales of goods left for him with the Pimas. 
Five of the mules had died, but the rest, with the 
bales, were promptly delivered to Colonel Cooke. 

Writing of the Indians, the colonel says : "The 
Pimas are large and fine looking, seem well fed, 
ride good horses, and are variously clothed, though 
many have only the center cloth; the men and 
women have extraordinary luxuriance and length 
of hair. With clean white blankets and streaming 
hair, they presented quite a fine figure. But inno- 
cence and cheerfulness are their most distinctive 



96 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

characteristics. I am told the Mexican officers 
offered them every persuasion and promise of 
plunder to excite hostility toward us. A few 
bushels of sweet corn were bought and issued as 
rations." 

A few days later an attempt was made to trans- 
port some of their provisions by water down the 
Gila on an improvised barge, but on account of 
sand bars it was found impracticable. 

On January 9th the battalion reached the Colo- 
rado; four days were consumed in crossing the 
river where they used the same improvised raft 
they had used on the Gila. 

The balance of the long march was made with- 
out any noteworthy incidents, and the old San 
Diego mission was reached on January 27, 1847. 

Although their long march proved of no special 
benefit in winning the Mexican war, nevertheless 
the Mormon battalion had accomplished a most 
important work for the Southwest and the nation. 

Illy provided with equipment and clothing, and 
subsisting largely on game they killed, they had, 
through mountains and deserts, blazed a practical 
wagon road from the end of the Santa Fe trail to 
the Pacific, the knowledge of which proved of in- 
estimable value to overland travelers, and sug- 
gested later a transcontinental railroad route that, 
owing to lack of steep grades, could be built at 
minimum expense. 



Chapter VI 
THE BOUNDARY SURVEY 

THE treaty of Guadalupe-Hidalgo, which was 
signed February 2, 1848, ended the Mexican 
war and added to the United States 875,000 
square miles of territory, which included Texas, 
New Mexico and California. The southern boun- 
dary of what is now Arizona, under the terms of 
the treaty, was fixed at the Gila River; the survey 
of the line between the two nations to be made 
under the direction of one commissioner from each 
side. 

Early in 1849, President Polk appointed John 

B. Weller, afterwards governor of California, as 
commissioner to represent the United States, and 
Gen. Pedro Garcia Conde was selected by the Mex- 
ican government. Before the work was com- 
menced, however, Weller was succeeded by John 

C. Fremont, who, being elected senator from Cali- 
fornia, resigned, and, in June, 1850, John R. Bart- 
lett was appointed in his place. 

In February, 1851, we find Commissioner Bart- 
lett in his headquarters at the Santa Rita copper 
mine, and the work being prosecuted along the 
Gila River. 

Besides the establishment of the international 
line, a careful investigation of the natural features 

97 



98 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

of the country was undertaken, so in addition to 
the large corps of engineers, which was in charge 
of Lieut. A. W. Whipple, the party included a 
botanist, a geologist and other men of scientific 
attainments. 

As with all expeditions into the Southwest at 
that time, the constant possibility of attacks from 
Apaches had to be considered and provided 
against. With the Bartlett party there was an 
escort of eighty-five soldiers commanded by Colo- 
nel Craig. 

The Santa Rita mine was located in the country 
of the Mimbres Apaches, and the members of that 
tribe were daily visitors at the camp, ever ready to 
accept the substantial crumbs that fell from the 
rich man's table. 

Mangas Colorado, who was then the chief of the 
Mimbres, was one of the most remarkable Indians 
in American history. A giant in stature, strength 
and mentality, he had all the requisites of natural 
leadership, and was withal one of the bloodiest 
savages that ever lived. Captain Cremony, who 
knew him well, says of him': 

"He exercised influence never equaled by any 
savage of our time, when we take into considera- 
tion the fact that the Apaches acknowledge no 
chief and obey no orders from any source. The 
life of Mangas Colorado, if it could be ascertained, 
would be a tissue of the most extensive and afflict- 
ing revelations, the most atrocious cruelties, the 
most vindictive revenges and widespread injuries 
ever perpetrated by an American Indian. The 



THE BOUNDARY SURVEY 99 

northern portions of Chihuahua and Sonora, large 
tracts of Durango, the whole of Arizona, and a 
very considerable part of New Mexico were laid 
waste, ravished and destroyed by this man and his 
followers. A strip of country twice as large as all 
California was rendered almost houseless, unpro- 
ductive, uninhabitable by his active and uncom- 
promising hostility. Large and flourishing towns 
were depopulated and ruined. Vast ranchos, such 
as that of Babacomari and San Bernardino, once 
teeming with wealth and immense herds of cattle, 
horses and mules, were turned into waste places 
and restored to their pristine solitudes. The name 
of Mangas Colorado was the tocsin of terror and 
dismay throughout a vast region of country, whose 
inhabitants existed by his sufferance under penalty 
of supplying him with the requisite arms and am- 
munition for his many and terrible raids. He com- 
bined many attributes of real greatness with the 
ferocity and brutality of the bloodiest savage. The 
names of his victims, by actual slaughter or cap- 
tivity, would fill a volume, and the relation of his 
deeds, throughout a long and merciless life, put to 
shame the records of the Newgate Calendar." 

One of Mangas' wives was a Mexican woman of 
comely appearance, whom he had stolen in a 
Sonora raid. This woman, his "favorite" of sev- 
eral wives, bore him three fine looking daughters, 
and, with a true monarch's diplomacy, he married 
them to other leaders of men like himself. One 
became the wife of a Navajo chief, and the other 
two were espoused to heads of influential Apache 
bands, thus widening his sphere of influence. 



100 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

At the Santa Rita mines the presence of the sol- 
diers, for a time, had a salutary effect upon the 
Indians, but it was inevitable that friction should 
come sooner or later. 

The first hint of trouble showed itself one day 
when two naked Mexican boys, about ten or twelve 
years of age, dashed into camp, and, running into 
the tent of Captain Cremony, the interpreter for 
the expedition, breathlessly explained that they 
had escaped from the Apaches, who had stolen 
them six months before. 

Mangas Colorado was in the camp at the time, 
and calmly proposed that if Bartlett wanted the 
boys he should buy them. The commissioner re- 
plied that they had been stolen and that he was 
going to take them without pay. 

At this there was a terrible commotion, and, at 
a solemn conference that was held later, the out- 
raged Apache chiefs arraigned the perfidious 
Americans in scathing terms. Had not the Apaches 
always been not only friends but brothers to the 
Americans? Had they not allowed them to enter 
into their country and live among them? Then 
how could they now try to steal their property? 
These captives belonged to a poor man, and their 
labor as slaves, or the proceeds of their ransom, 
was sorely needed by his wife and children. They 
were captured at the risk of the poor man's life ! 
Should he now tamely give them up? — and so on 
and so on, the oratory lasting for hours. 

The eloquence was irresistible. The additional 
fact that the hills were full of Apaches who held 



THE BOUNDARY SURVEY 101 

similar views as to property rights was also irre- 
sistible. The poor, outraged Indian was given $250 
worth of commissary supplies. 

A second cause for trouble came out of the inci- 
dent of the killing of an Apache by a Mexican 
laborer over the possession of a whip. The Indians 
(again in conference), through one of their ora- 
tors, Ponce, demanded that the man be immedi- 
ately turned over to them for death, according to 
their customs! Commissioner Bartlett explained 
that the man's case must be tried before the au- 
thorities at Santa Fe, where, if he were executed, 
it would be done decently and in order. 

This caused an absolute flood of expostulatory 
oratory. What good would it do the Apaches there 
for the man to be hanged in far off Santa Fe, where 
they couldn't see it! The mother of the murdered 
man wanted the blood of the slayer then and there. 

The matter was compromised by Bartlett pay- 
ing the mother $30 and making the Mexican work 
in captivity, also paying his wages to the mother. 

Although the Indians accepted the money, it did 
not in the least coincide with their ideas of justice, 
and in their dissatisfaction they took to stealing 
live stock belonging to the expedition, and at the 
same time pretending to be very zealous in search- 
ing for the thieves. Finally, Delgodito, one of the 
sub-chiefs who had been especially favored in gifts 
and otherwise by the party, was caught in the act 
of running off a bunch of cows. 

Seeing that the game was up, Delgodito dropped 
his mask and, from what he thought was a safe 



102 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

distance, reviled his pursuers with taunts and ges- 
tures. At the very moment of a particularly in- 
sulting posture, dear to the Apache's heart, a bullet 
from the rifle of a teamster made a crease along 
his skin, and the howl of pain that the Indian gave 
was music to the Americans. 

After that the expedition moved its headquar- 
ters to the land of the peaceful Pimas, a tribe 
whose characters were as good as the Apaches' 
were evil. 

Somewhat earlier than this, while the commis- 
sioner's party was still at Santa Rita, a band of 
Mexican traders, under the leadership of one Peter 
Blacklaws, visited the camp, bringing with them a 
Mexican girl by the name of Inez Gonzales, whom 
they had bought from the Pinaleno Apaches. Al- 
though the girl had not been specially mistreated 
by the Indians, she had been held in slavery, and 
sold like any other chattel to Blacklaws. Bartlett 
at once took charge of her, and later had the pleas- 
ure of personally returning her to her people. 

Inez, who was but fourteen years old, told the 
commissioner that the Apaches had a number of 
Mexican slaves, both men and women. Indeed, it 
was rather a common custom for the Apache 
braves to marry and treat quite like their own 
women girls taken from Mexican families. 

All this time the work of surveying the interna- 
tional boundary was being carried on in a lei- 
surely fashion, and finally, after many delays, was 
completed in July, 1853. 



Chapter VII 
THE GADSDEN PURCHASE 

FOR several reasons the boundary line as 
established by the treaty of Guadalupe- 
Hidalgo did not prove to be a permanent 
one. Reports made by Maj. William H. Emory, 
astronomer and escort commander under Bartlett, 
and others, as well as the experience of Colonel 
Cooke with the Mormon Battalion, brought to the 
attention of the administration at Washington that 
the most feasible southern route for a railroad to 
the Pacific lay in the Mexican territory south of 
the Gila River. Also,^ while the country was con- 
sidered of negligible value for agricultural pur- 
poses, it was believed to have grazing possibilities 
and to be exceedingly rich in minerals. 

Naturally, through feelings of pride, Mexico 
would be loath to give up more of her territory to 
the United States; yet she was desperately in need 
of money, so to James Gadsden, United States min- 
ister to Mexico, was given the commission of pur- 
chasing, if possible, a strip of land below the then 
borders of New Mexico, whose southern boundary 
in the part that is now Arizona reached only to the 
Gila. 

So successful was Mr. Gadsden in his efforts 
that he brought back with him not one offer, but 

103 



104 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

three, from the Mexican government, and assur- 
edly all of them were bargains. For $25,000,000 
the United States could have all of the land south 
of the Gila to the parallel of latitude 30°, with 
Lower California thrown in; for $15,000,000, Mex- 
ico would place the boundary at latitude 31°, or, 
if the United States only wanted to spend its small 
change, for $10,000,000 it could have the land em- 
braced within its boundaries as they are today. 

When it is appreciated that the first offer would 
have given to us, in addition to Lower California, 
the greater part of Chichuahua and Sonora, with 
the rich mineral, timber and agricultural lands of 
these states, together with the valuable port of 
Guaymas on the Gulf of California, and also when 
it is further realized that the copper mines at Bis- 
bee (which were, of course, situated on land in- 
cluded in the purchase) could have paid the 
purchase price of $25,000,000 many times over, the 
opportunity which the United States let slip 
through her fingers will be realized. 

There is little doubt, though, that this offer 
would have been accepted had it not been for the 
opposition of the anti-slavery faction which re- 
garded all states south of the thirty-third parallel 
as slave territory. 

Major Emory, who had done most efficient work 
on the first boundary survey, was appointed com- 
missioner and surveyor to establish the line, with 
Jose Salazar Ylarregui as Mexican commissioner, 
assisted by Francis Jiminez as chief engineer. The 
initial monument was established at El Paso, Jan- 



THE GADSDEN PURCHASE 105 

uary 31, 1855, and by June, 1856, the survey had 
proceeded as far west as Nogales. The line from 
the west was started at the Colorado River by 
Lieut. N. Michler in December, 1854, but after pro- 
ceeding eastward for a short distance he was 
forced to stop operations on account of the impos- 
sibihty of securing an adequate water supply and 
joined Emory in Nogales. The party pushed west- 
ward from that point, and in spite of the summer 
weather coming on, the work was prosecuted with- 
out interruption and was completed in August. 

In addition to the boundary line, other impor- 
tant surveys were made in Arizona during the 
'50s, especially valuable as most of them, like both 
the surveys just completed, included scientific in- 
vestigation of the country passed through, and gave 
the East accurate knowledge of its newly acquired 
southwestern territory. 

The first survey in northern Arizona was made 
by Capt. L. Sitgreaves during 1852, his superiors 
instructing him to follow the course of the Zuni 
River to the Gulf of California. He did not at- 
tempt to follow the Colorado through the canyon, 
but instead turned west near the thirty-fifth paral- 
lel until, reaching the Colorado at that latitude, he 
journeyed along its course to Fort Yuma. 

In 1853-54, under the direction of the War De- 
partment, a preliminary reconnoissance for a pos- 
sible railroad was run by Lieut. A. W. Whipple 
and Lieut. J. C. Ives and party from Fort Smith, 
Arkansas, along the thirty-fifth parallel to Cali- 
fornia. 



106 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Another survey across northern Arizona about 
the same time was made by Francis Xavier Aubrey, 
who ran a line eastward from Tejon Pass, Cahfor- 
nia, through to Zuni, New Mexico. In building 
through Arizona, the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad 
followed rather closely in places the line run by 
him. 

Surveys for projected railroads were made 
through southern Arizona by Lieut. J. G. Parke in 
1854-55, by A. B. Gray in 1855, and by J. B. Leach 
and N, H. Hutton two or three years later. 

Lieut. Edward S. Beale, who, with Kit Carson, 
slipped through the Mexican line after the battle of 
San Pascual, in 1858 surveyed a line for a wagon 
road in the same parallel followed by Lieutenant 
Whipple. One interesting feature of his work was 
that he used camels as pack animals. These were 
animals owned by the War Department, the story 
of which will be told later. 

All of these parties naturally had more or less 
trouble with the Indians, for example, the Aubrey 
party was attacked by forty or fifty Apaches, who 
up to that moment had concealed their arms, and 
as further "camouflage" were accompanied by 
their women and children. As soon as the fight 
was fairly on, two hundred and fifty more Indians 
suddenly appeared, charging with clubs, bows and 
arrows. Nevertheless, the little party of eighteen 
white men, with rifles and Colt revolvers, were 
finally able to beat them off. 

On the branches of the upper Gila, Aubrey re- 
ports he saw an Indian load his gun with gold 
bullets to shoot a rabbit! 



THE GADSDEN PURCHASE 107 
EARLY OVERLAND TRAVEL 

Reginning with the close of the Mexican war, 
overland travel through Arizona to California 
steadily increased until, by the end of 1851, it has 
been estimated that over sixty thousand people 
passed through the territory. The route usually 
followed was, in a general way, the old Cooke 
wagon road, though various cut-offs were some- 
times taken. 

While the southern route must have been much 
more pleasant to follow in the winter than the 
more northerly one, the sufferings from heat and 
drought in the desert during the summer could 
have been nothing less than terrible. 

At this time the depredations of the Apaches 
were mainly against the Mexicans, nevertheless 
both exploring and emigrant parties of Americans 
were not infrequently attacked. The larger wagon 
trains, if well guarded, usually got through without 
serious molestation, but the Apaches seemed sel- 
dom able to resist raiding small or illy-guarded 
groups. 

Conspicuous because of the publicity given to it 
at the time, though no worse than hundreds of 
other similar incidents, was the Oatman massacre 
of 1851. 

Royse Oatman and family were members of a 
party of fifty emigrants which left Independence, 
Missouri, in the summer of 1850, planning to form 
a colony on the fertile lands of the lower Colorado 
River. When they reached the Pima villages, Feb- 



108 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

ruary 16, 1851, finding their food supply getting 
low, Oatman decided to push on with his family to 
Fort Yuma. A few days later, while camping just 
below Gila Bend, he was visited by a party of 
Tonto Apaches, who came up friendly enough and 
asked for food, but in spite of the fact that their 
request was granted, they suddenly attacked and 
killed the father and mother with clubs. An infant 
child was also killed, and the son, Lorenzo, a boy 
of fifteen, was clubbed, thrown over a rocky point 
and left for dead. A girl, Olive, aged sixteen, and 
Mary Ann, aged seven, were taken captives. 

After the Indians had left, Lorenzo, gaining con- 
sciousness, managed to make his way back to the 
Pima villages. The girls were carried to the moun- 
tains in north-central Arizona, where they were 
treated as slaves, and, after about a year of cap- 
tivity, were sold to a band of Mojaves, who took 
them to their haunts on the Colorado River. Here 
they seem to have been treated about the same 
as the other Mojave women, gathering roots and 
seeds for food, while the men put in their time at 
hunting. 

Worn by the tortures of her life, the younger 
girl died in captivity, but Olive was kept by the 
Mojaves until 1856, when Americans, learning of 
her slavery, ransomed her and restored her to her 
brother. 

EARLY MILITARY POSTS 

In September of 1849, Lieut. C. J. Coutts, in 
charge of the military escort to the boundary sur- 



THE GADSDEN PURCHASE 109 

veyors, established Camp Calhoun on the Cali- 
fornia side of the Colorado River, and, as no ferry 
had yet been established, gave much needed aid 
to travel-weary emigrants in crossing the stream. 

Although the emigrant trail led through the 
present southern Arizona, it must be remembered 
that, being in the country below the Gila, it was 
on Mexican territory, and therefore could not be 
garrisoned by Americans. 

On November 27, 1850, Major Heintzelman ar- 
rived with soldiers from San Diego and established 
a garrison, also on the California side, which he 
called Camp Independence. The next March the 
garrison was transferred to the site of the old Span- 
ish mission of Father Garces and christened Fort 
Yuma. 

The only other military post guarding Arizona 
at that time was Fori Defiance, which had been 
established in 1849, just west of the New Mexico- 
Arizona boundary in the present Navajo Reserva- 
tion. Its principal purpose was to keep a watchful 
eye on the tricky Navajo, who had a decided 
penchant for raiding ranches of the Pueblans, 
Mexicans and Americans as far east as the Rio 
Grande. 

NAVIGATION ON THE COLORADO 

At first it would not seem that navigation would 
find a place in the annals of arid Arizona, yet from 
1852 until the completion of the Southern Pacific 
from the western coast to Yuma many passengers 



no THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

and more freight were brought in deep sea boats 
from California, which, rounding Cape San Lucas, 
sailed up the Gulf of California to some convenient 
bay like Port Ysabel, where they would be met by 
light river steamers, and transfer of freight and 
passengers be made. 

Yuma, 175 miles up the river, was the disem- 
barking point for southern Arizona, while passen- 
gers and freight for Wickenburg, Prescott and 
central Arizona would be unloaded at La Paz or 
Ehrenberg. Hardyville, 337 miles up the river 
from Yuma, was generally considered the head of 
navigation, though for a while one steamer, at 
least, made regular trips to the mouth of the Virgin 
River some considerable distance farther to the 
north. 

Soon after the establishment of Fort Yuma the 
Government gave a contract to George A. Johnston 
for taking freight from San Francisco to Yuma 
via the Gulf of California. Johnston brought his 
first cargo in the schooner Sierra Nevada to the 
mouth of the Colorado, where he built flatboats, 
piled the freight on them, and pulled them by 
hand to Yuma. The second contract was given 
to Captain Turnbull, who built a small side wheel 
steamer, the Uncle Sam, at the Colorado's mouth. 
However, the craft did not have engine power 
enough to successfully negotiate the rapid cur- 
rent of the river at high water. On June 22, 1854, 
it sank at her moorings a few miles below Fort 
Yuma. 

In January, 1854, the General Jessup, a much 



THE GADSDEN PURCHASE 111 

larger boat, was brought in by Capt. George A. 
Johnston, and from then until the Southern Pacific 
Railroad reached the Colorado, Johnston and his 
associates controlled the river traffic. 

In September, 1854, the General Jessup ex- 
ploded, and its successors, which were put into 
commission at different times, included the Colo- 
rado, 120 feet long; the Cocopah, 140 feet long; 
the Colorado No. 2, 145 feet long; the Mojave, 135 
feet long; the Cocopah No. 2, and barges Black 
Crook, White Fawn and Yuma. 

Opposition to the Johnston line appeared in 
1864 in the steamer Esmeralda, owned by Thomas 
E. Trueworthy, and the Vina Tilden of the Phila- 
delphia Mining Company. Two years later a new 
navigation company bought the two boats, but 
failed soon afterwards, leaving a clear field to 
Johnston. 

As is the case in all western streams, the waters 
of the Colorado fluctuate greatly during the differ- 
ent seasons. Draining much of the western Rocky 
Mountain slopes, in early summer a rise of thirty 
feet will sometimes happen at Yuma, and in the 
narrow gorges of the Grand Canyon the water not 
infrequently mounts one hundred feet or more up 
the precipitous walls. For the rest of the year the 
river dwindles to a sluggish, almost shallow 
stream, brick-red with mud. These are the times 
when the early steamboats would spend dreary 
hours getting on and off sand and mud bars, and 
on summer days, with the mercury registering 115 
or more, the boredom of the passengers would 



112 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

only be equaled by the perspiring disgust of the 
boat crew. 

The first craft on the Colorado to be used 
steadih' as a ferry had been built at the Pima 
villages by a party of emigrants and floated down 
the Gila. An added interest was given to the voy- 
age by the birth of a son to Mrs. Howard, the wife 
of a clergyman — probably the first child of Ameri- 
can parentage to be born in Arizona. 

This flatboat was operated as a ferry for a 
while on the Colorado at Fort Yuma under the 
direction of Lieutenant Coutts, when it passed 
into the hands of a man by the name of Lincoln 
and the notorious scalp-hunter, Glanton. Glanton 
quarreled with the operator of a rival fern.- and 
killed him; whereupon, as has been related, al- 
ready having grievances enough against Glanton, 
the Yuma Indians shot him to death with their 
arrows. 

This seemed to have stopped the ferr^- business 
for a while, but in July, 1850, a new boat of cotton- 
wood logs was built by L. J. F. Jaeger and B. M. 
Hartshorn, and the service was re-established. 



Chapter VIII 
MINING AND TRANSPORTATION 



FROM THE GADSDEN PURCHASE TO THE 
CIVIL WAR 

IMMEDIATELY upon the consummation of the 
Gadsden treaty, although a wholesome fear 
of the Apaches prevented any great rush of 
settlers into this new country, which was consid- 
ered fabulously rich in minerals, nevertheless 
there began a steady influx of the type of pioneers 
the frontier always attracts — men indifferent to 
perils and hardships so long as there is either the 
golden lure of fortune or a brave chance for 
adventure. 

Among the earliest of these arrivals was 
Charles D. Poston, destined afterwards to play an 
important part in the development of the terri- 
tory. Coming by water, he landed at Navachista 
on the Gulf of California, in 1854, and proceeded 
with Herman Ehrenberg, an expert mining engi- 
neer, to Tubac, which they found deserted, but 
with the houses in fairly good condition. They 
remained in the vicinity all winter, making Tubac 
their headquarters and prospecting the hills there- 
abouts for precious metals. So impressed was 

113 



114 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Poston with the mineral possibilities of the new 
country that in 1856 we find him the leader of an 
expedition sent out by the Sonora Exploring and 
Mining Company, a corporation organized at Cin- 
cinnati, with Gen. S. P. Heintzelman as president, 
for the purpose of engaging in mining in the rich 
country Poston had visited. Tubac was the ob- 
jective of the expedition, which it reached via 
Tucson in 1857. With Poston, who besides being 
a director was to act as manager, returned Her- 
man Ehrenberg. 

MINING ACTIVITIES ABOUT TUBAC 

The Americans proceeded to repair the old 
adobe buildings of the town. The frames for 
doors and windows as well as furniture were 
obtained by sawing out lumber with whipsaws 
from the pines of the Santa Cruz Mountains. For 
their meat supply we read that they had more 
bear, antelope and turkey than they could use. 

The principal mine which the company devel- 
oped was the Heintzelman, located thirty miles 
from Tubac. The first run of its ore was made 
through an adobe furnace, it taking six hundred 
hours to smelt out two thousand ounces of silver 
and three hundred pounds of copper. Although 
more modern methods were used later, in spite of 
the fact that the ore was very rich, sampling as 
high as $1,000 to the ton, it never seems to have 
paid much in dividends to its stockholders. How- 
ever, it paid good wages to workmen, and Ameri- 



MINING AND TRANSPORTATION 115 

cans as well as Mexicans were attracted to the 
town until, in 1858, it contained a population of 
about eight hundred, one-sixth of the people being 
American. The town is described as being very 
attractive with its peach orchards and pome- 
granates. It is also stated that the only business 
transacted in the place outside of mining was its 
trade in mescal, which was very extensive. 

It must have been a lively as well as interesting 
town. Poston, in writing of it, says: 

"We had no law but love, and no occupation 
but labor; no government, no taxes, no public debt, 
no politics. It was a community in a perfect state 
of nature. As syndic under New Mexico I opened 
a book of records, performed the marriage cere- 
mony, baptized the children and granted divorce." 

In blithely thus assuming the prerogatives of 
Church and State, Poston was heaping up for him- 
self and others a vast amount of trouble, for, after 
he had been marrying and baptizing for a year or 
two. Father Machebeuf, the vicar apostolic of New 
Mexico, came down, and, after learning the con- 
dition of affairs, said that so far as his church was 
concerned the actions of the zealous syndic were 
wholly spurious. 

As Poston writes, "It was may triste in Tubac." 
The visiting vicar, however, seemed to be equal 
to the emergency. "At last I arranged with the 
father to give the sanction of the church to the 
marriages" (he says nothing whatever about the 
divorces), "but it cost seven hundred dollars" 
(which Poston thoughtfully charged to the com- 



116 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

pany as urgent and necessary expenses) "to 
rectify the matrimonial situation on the Santa 
Cruz." 

In 1859, Tubac — and incidentally Arizona, 
though it wasn't Arizona then — had its first news- 
paper, the Weekly Arizonian. It had four pages, 
four columns to the page, and was printed on a 
hand press that came from Cincinnati via Guay- 
mas. The paper was originally owned by the 
Salero Mining Company, and McClintock states 
that Col. Ed Cross appears to have done much of 
the editorial work, with Poston as a contributor. 
McClintock also says that after attacking Sylvester 
Mowry in his columns, that fiery mining magnate 
challenged Cross to a duel, which was fought with 
rifles — without bloodshed. Mowry then bought 
the paper and the duelists became fast friends. 

As a medium of exchange, because silver 
bullion was too cumbersome, the company used 
boletas, which were nothing more or less than 
paper money issued by themselves, redeemable 
in silver. As none of the Mexicans could read, 
each boleta had a picture denoting its denomina- 
tion. A "bit" was indicated by a pig, a 25-cent 
boleta was adorned by a calf; a rooster was worth 
50 cents; a horse, $1; and when the cashier handed 
the brown-faced laborer a ticket adorned by a 
bull, he knew he could buy Maria or Sarafina or 
Dorothea $5 worth of dress goods, with a cone of 
penoche thrown in as pelon, down at the company 
store. 

The company later erected at the Heintzelman 



MINING AND TRANSPORTATION 117 

mine amalgamating works the machinery for 
which it brought from San Francisco at a cost of 
$39,000. In 1859 about $100,000 worth of silver 
was produced. 

In addition to the Heintzelman, many other 
mines were worked in the vicinity, including the 
Santa Rita, Sopori and Arivaca, from which, not- 
withstanding the frequent raids of the Apaches, 
considerable ore was taken. The Patagonia, after- 
wards known as the Mowry, was also a famous 
mine in the same vicinity, discovered in 1858. It 
was famous not only for its richness, its ore assay- 
ing from $80 to $706 in silver per ton, but for the 
prominence of one of its principal owners, Syl- 
vester Mowry, who was one of the most notable 
citizens in the Gadsden Strip. 

PLACERS ON THE GILA 

Placers were located on the Gila about twenty- 
four miles above Fort Yuma in 1858. There was 
a rush of fortune hunters to the place and soon 
"Gila City," as they called the mushroom town, 
had a thousand of as disreputable human beings 
as are often gathered together. Men are said to 
have panned out over $100 of gold in a day and, 
incidentally, gambled it away the same night. 

The diggings, however, soon gave out, and in a 
few years the last inhabitant had gone to dig and 
drink and gamble in some other place. 



118 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

AJO MINES 

The first copper mines to be worked in Arizona 
were probably at Ajo, which were located in 1854 
by an exploring party sent out by the Arizona 
Mining and Trading Company from San Francisco, 
who expected to find rich property in the vicinity 
of the old Planchas de Plata. Valuable ore was 
taken out and shipped to San Francisco, and 
thirty tons of it, reshipped to Wales, sold for $360 
a ton. 

OTHER SETTLEMENTS 

Prof. W. Wrightson, in 1860, reports that Tuma- 
cacori was deserted except for three German 
settlers. Although fruit trees and vines were still 
growing, the church was deserted and already fall- 
ing into decay. There remained a five-acre garden 
and a plaza surrounded by huts for laborers, form- 
ing a respectable village. Wrightson also says 
that there were remains of furnaces with quan- 
tities of slag near buildings where metallurgic 
operations had been carried on. 

In '56 Poston describes Tucson as containing 
from three to four hundred Mexicans, and about 
thirty Americans, two American stores, one flour 
mill and other business places — probably saloons. 
He reports the place as being law-abiding, quiet 
and orderly. 

It was that same year that the United States 
took military possession of the Gadsden Purchase 



MINING AND TRANSPORTATION 119 

and attempted to give some protection to the towns 
and ranchos south of the Gila, but the protection 
thus afforded was most inadequate. Four com- 
panies of the First Dragoons were stationed at 
Tucson, where they relieved the Mexican garrison 
of twenty-six men, commanded by Capt. Hilario 
Garcia. Fort Buchanan was established on the 
Sonoita, twenty-five miles east of Tubac, in 1857, 
and Camp Breckenridge, near the junction of the 
San Pedro and Aravaipa rivers, was garrisoned in 
1859. On account of the depredations upon emi- 
grants by the Mojave Indians in 1857, Gamp 
Mojave was located on the Arizona side of the 
Colorado River a year later, a few miles above the 
present town of Needles. 

The present town of Yuma had its earliest set- 
tlers in 1854, who named their village Colorado 
City; later it was changed to Arizona City. Most 
of its buildings were destroyed by flood in 1861. 

STAGE LINES 

The first stage line to run through Arizona was 
established by the San Antonio-San Diego Stage 
Company, which started operations by sending 
eastward from San Diego three coaches in Novem- 
ber, 1857. 

Of the line, a year later, we read that passen- 
gers would have the comfort of six-mule coaches, 
except over a hundred sandy miles of the Colorado 
desert, when the hardy traveler exchanged his 
seat for a saddle on an equally hardy mule. Pas- 
sengers were allowed thirty pounds of baggage, 



120 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

besides blankets and the very necessary firearms. 
For all these luxuries the charge from San Anto- 
nio to Tucson was $50; to San Diego, $200. An 
armed escort accompanied the train through the 
Indian country. 

In 1858 this line was succeeded by that of the 
famous Butterfield Company. Its route covered 
twenty-seven hundred and fifty-nine miles — from 
San Francisco to St. Louis, via Los Angeles, Yuma, 
Tucson and El Paso. Mail was carried twice a 
week, for which the company received $6,000 a 
year, with the understanding that the trip was to 
be completed within twenty-five days. The record 
trip was made when, by changing animals often 
and driving with breakneck speed, a flier was put 
through in sixteen days. 

Later, under the name of the Southern Over- 
land Mail, trips were made daily, and the mail pay 
was increased to $1,300,000. 

At this time the equipment consisted of more 
than 100 Concord coaches, 500 horses, 1,000 mules, 
150 drivers and over 600 other employes. The 
through fare was $100; letters were carried for 10 
cents a half ounce. 

The route followed the old Mormon Battalion 
road, and the armed guards were necessary, not 
only against Indians, but against Mexican and 
American outlaws as well. When Apaches were 
especially hostile, trips through their country 
would be taken at night, for while the Apaches 
would often go out on nocturnal stealing expedi- 
tions, they seldom, for superstitious reasons, made 
attacks upon fighting men except by daylight. 



MINING AND TRANSPORTATION 121 

A typical tragedy of the road occurred when 
Silas St. John, a noted Butterfield mail rider, was 
building the stage station at Dragoon Springs, 
September, 1858. One night three Mexican labor- 
ers, tempted by the possibilities of robbery of 
arms and mules, attacked St. John and four Amer- 
ican companions as they slept. Three were killed 
or mortally wounded, but St. John, immediately 
awakening, fought with such ferocity that the men 
fled. St. John, however, was in a desperate con- 
dition. His left arm had been severed by a blow 
from an axe, and there was a deep wound in his 
hip. Although almost dead from pain and loss 
of blood, for three days and nights the frontiers- 
man defended himself and the bodies of his com- 
panions from coyotes and buzzards. On the fourth 
day a party of Americans arrived in time to save 
his life. 

On December 1, 1858, a stage line was estab- 
lished from Tucson to Fort Buchanan via San 
Xavier, Tubac and Calabasas, the fare between the 
two termini being $12. 

Tucson merchants handled both eastern and 
Sonoran merchandise. Early writers frankly say 
that the thing that made the trade with the south- 
ern republic especially lucrative was that it was 
so easy to smuggle the goods across the line 
through the mountains on pack mules. The prin- 
cipal imports were olives, oranges, lemons, tobacco 
and Mexican silver coins. On the return trips the 
pack trains carried dry goods, boots, shoes, gro- 
ceries and notions. 



Chapter IX 

ATTEMPTS TO ESTABLISH TERRI- 
TORIAL GOVERNMENT 

THE land acquired by the Gadsden Purchase 
was added to the Territory of New Mexico 
on August 4, 1854, and the succeeding New 
Mexican Legislature included it in Doiia Ana 
County, whose county seat was Mesilla, on the Rio 
Grande, When it is remembered that Mesilla was 
two hundred and fifty railroadless miles from 
Tucson, and Santa Fe, the capital of the terri- 
tory, was over five hundred miles distant by stage, 
it is not surprising to learn that the citizens in the 
Santa Cruz Valley had to largely administer their 
own laws, and yearly the necessity for some sort 
of a division of the overlarge Territory of New 
Mexico became more apparent. A convention was 
held in Tucson on August 29, 1856, which peti- 
tioned Congress to grant them the permission to 
organize a separate territory. The petition was 
presented to the House Committee on Territories 
by Nathan P. Cook, who had been chosen to rep- 
resent the hoped-for commonwealth in Congress, 
but aside from the fact that the committee recom- 
mended the organization of a judicial district cov- 
ering the Gadsden Purchase, nothing came of it. 
At the next session of Congress, 1857-58, a bill 

122 



TERRITORIAL GOVERNMENT 123 

was introduced by Senator Guin for the organiza- 
tion of the Territory of Arizona, which would 
include the land south of the Gila, Dona Ana 
County, and an extension eastward to Texas. In 
the hope that this bill would pass, the citizens of 
Tucson elected. Sylvester Mo wry as delegate to 
Congress, but although Mowry made the trip to 
Washington, it was a fruitless errand, for the bill, 
failed to pass. 

It was about this time that the word "Arizona" 
seems to have been first suggested as a name for 
the new southwestern territory. Poston, in speak- 
ing of the matter, says that when he was in Mesilla 
in 1856 a petition to Congress was prepared asking 
for the organization into a separate territory of 
the country in the southern part of New Mexico 
lying between the Rio Grande and the Colorado. 
The document was drawn by William Claude 
Jones, attorney general of New Mexico, and when 
he came to the name he wrote "Arizona." It is 
not unlikely that the name then, as now, was with 
most people associated with the two Spanish words 
arida (arid) and zona (zone) — the dry land — cer- 
tainly appropriate enough. However, its deriva- 
tion was from something quite different. Dr. 
F. H. Hodge, the ethnologist, is of the opinion that 
it comes from the Papago, "ari-zonac," meaning 
small springs, and Dr. R. H. Forbes of the Univer- 
sity of Arizona adds the idea that the Papago 
words imply small but everflowing water. 

In any event the word was not unfamiliar in 
the Southwest. As we have seen, one of the mines 



124 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

of the Planchas de Plata, twenty miles southwest 
of Nogales, was called the Arizona or Arizuma, 
and within six miles of the Planchas de Plata is 
both a ranch and a rio Arizona. McGlintock, in 
his "Arizona the Youngest State," mentions that 
earlier than 1754 Padre Ortega J^ioke of the "real 
of Arizona" being near the Planchas de Plata. In 
other words, Arizona was the name of the mining 
camp. 

In 1858 Mowry was reelected to the position of 
congressional delegate, and again went on a fruit- 
less mission to Washington, where he seems to 
have had influence enough to have had new bills 
for Arizona's admission introduced in the winter 
of 1858-59, which, like that of earlier date, failed 
to pass. However, if Mowry was unable to get a 
seat in congressional halls it was not the fault of 
his constituents, for again, on June 19, 1859, a con- 
vention held at Mesilla followed the established 
precedent of nominating the popular miner as 
delegate. When the convention adjourned at 
Mesilla its members traveled on to Tucson, where 
another convention was in session, and the two 
bodies joined their voices in the request for a 
separate territory. 

The most elaborate plan to form a new terri- 
tory was made at Tucson in April, 1860, when a 
convention was held at which were represented 
Tucson, Arivaca, Tubac, Sonoita, Gila City and 
Calabasas in the present Arizona and many towns 
that now belong to southern New Mexico. The 
land to be embraced in the new territory was a 



TERRITORIAL GOVERNMENT 125 

long, narrow strip one hundred and forty miles 
from north to south, and seven hundred miles from 
east to west, lying just north of Mexico and run- 
ning from Texas to the Colorado. North and 
south lines were to divide the section into four 
counties, which, beginning at the east, were to be 
named Rio Grande, Mesilla, Elwell and Castle 
Dome. To prove to Congress that they were 
really in earnest the convention even elected a 
governor — Dr. L. S. Owings of Mesilla. That fall 
Senator Green of Missouri tried to get a hearing 
for a bill to provide temporary government for 
the Territory of Arizona, but was unsuccessful, as 
was Senator Jefferson Davis with a similar bill. 
At the election that fall Mowry, who seems to have 
had enough of empty honors, was out of it, and 
"Ned" McGowan fell heir to the elusive congres- 
sional toga. 

As most of the settlers in the Gadsden Purchase 
were from the South and accustomed to slavery, 
it is not strange perhaps that the institution of 
peonage, which the Americans inherited from the 
Mexicans, did not seem repugnant to them. In 
any event, its protection was provided for in a 
statutory law up to 1867, when it was abolished by 
Congress. 

The only difference between peonage and negro 
slaverj^ was that a peon could not be sold from one 
master to another. The padron would pay this 
servant about $5 a month, out of which he had to 
support himself and his family. Naturally, as 
this was impossible, he would go in debt buying 



126 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

provisions and the like at the padron's store, 
where he was given ample credit. The peonage 
act, which was dignified with the title, "Law Regu- 
lating Contracts and Servants," provided that if a 
servant did not wish to stay in the service of his 
master, he could leave by paying what he owed 
him; but as the peon could not do this, he and his 
family remained in servitude all their lives. 
Parents had the right to bind their children out as 
peons, thus forcing slavery upon them. Should a 
peon try to escape, a warrant of debt served by an 
officer was all that was necessary to bring him 
back. In some ways the peon's lot was worse 
than that of the negro slave. When he was too 
old to work the master was under no obligations 
to keep him, and might turn him out to drift or 
starve. 

Still, in spite of peonage and the fact that the 
organic act of New Mexico (embracing present 
Arizona), provided that New Mexico might 
eventually be admitted either as a slave or a free 
state as its citizens should decide, the Mexicans 
living within the territory owned no slaves, nor 
wanted any. Possibly the laboring class was too 
familiar with the burdens of peonage not to sym- 
pathize with the slaves rather than with the mas- 
ters. When the test of the Civil War came the 
citizens of New Mexico, especially in the northern 
part of the state, cast their lots almost unani- 
mously with the Unionists; not that they loved 
the North so much perhaps, but that they hated 
Texas more; and to them Texas meant the South. 



Chapter X 

FILIBUSTERS IN MEXICO— WAR 
DEPARTMENT CAMELS 

DURING the years immediately following the 
Mexican War a number of filibustering 
expeditions made their way from the 
United States into northern Mexico. That which 
was most particularly connected with Arizona 
was the ill-starred expedition of Henry A. Crabb 
in 1857. In that year Ignacio Pesquiera was the 
claimant for the governorship of Sonora against 
Manuel Gandara, who held the ofiice. It is stated 
that Pesquiera offered to give Crabb a substantial 
strip of territory along the Arizona line if he would 
bring down one thousand Americans to help him 
win the governorship. 

With an advance party of a hundred men, 
recruited in California, he crossed Arizona from 
Yuma into Sonora. By this time, however, Pes- 
quiera had won his contest and, to save his face, 
repudiated his contract and called upon the people 
of Sonora to repel the invaders. "Let us fly then," 
he said, "to chastise with all the fury that can 
scarcely be contained in a heart swelling with 
resentment against coercion, the savage filibuster 
who has dared in an unhappy hour to tread our 
nation's soil, and to arouse, insensate, our wrath." 

When besieged in Caborca, Crabb, after being 

127 



128 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

given a solemn promise by Pesquiera that if he 
and his party gave themselves up they would be 
transported safely across the line, surrendered his 
command, whereupon the Mexicans shot them, 
dividing them into parties of ten. The head of 
Crabb, it is said, was pickled in mescal and sent 
to Mexico City as proof of Pesquiera's incorrupt- 
ible patriotism. 

Previously, learning of Crabb's peril, Granville 
Oury and Charles Tozer led a party of twenty- 
seven men from Tucson for their relief, but before 
they could reach Caborca Crabb and his associates 
had been executed, and it was only after a serious 
battle with fifty Mexican lancers that the rescuers, 
with a loss of four of their men, were able to 
reach the border. 

WAR DEPARTMENT CAMELS 

After this bloody business of treachery and 
murder, for very contrast's sake let us turn to the 
pleasant comedy of the United States soldier and 
his camels. 

It seems that it was the secretary of war, Jeffer- 
son Davis, who first conceived the idea. The 
nation had just acquired a desert, and, as every 
one knows, as salt goes with celery, so camels go 
with hot, sandy plains. 

The fitness of the camel for the life in our 
Southwest was nothing less than marvelous. 
Camels could go seven days without water. A 
camel could carry a ton of merchandise between 



FILIBUSTERS IN MEXICO 129 

his humps and never shed a tear. A camel could 
travel farther in a day than a horse, and if, when 
after Indians an ambush should be attempted, the 
sight of the beasts alone would be enough to drive 
the Indians terror-stricken from the field. 

It was on May 16, 1855, that the War Depart- 
ment sent Maj. Henry C. Wayne to the Levant 
a-camel hunting. His companion in the enterprise 
was to be Lieut. D. D. Porter, who was to proceed 
with the naval store ship "Supply" and join Wayne 
at Smyrna. 

The camel buyer hastened on his quest, and 
soon acquired not only a wide and varied knowl- 
edge of bactrians and dromedaries, but also wis- 
dom concerning the wiles of glib-tongued, dark- 
skinned confidence men, who, with tears in their 
eyes over parting with the thoroughbreds of their 
herds, would sell them mangy, moth-eaten, worth- 
less beasts whose age could be comparable with 
nothing less venerable than the Sphinx or the 
Pyramids. 

However, the Americans learned the worthless- 
ness of the animals, sold them for what they could 
and did purchase some really valuable camels. 
Such connoisseurs did Major Wayne and his asso- 
ciates become that, when at Cairo, the viceroy of 
Egypt offered to give six of his choicest drome- 
daries as a gift to the United States, but delivered 
three hump-backed scarecrows, the Americans 
firmly but politely declined the gift. 

Finally, at Smyrna, the major not only com- 
pleted the purchase of thirty-four fine animals. 



130 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

but also acquired two expert camel drivers, Hi 
Jolly (Hadji Ali) and Greek George. 

The camels made a safe voyage, and when 
they were unloaded on the Texas coast, May 16, 
1856, not only was the original purchase intact, 
but there were as well several baby camels which 
had been born en route, and the herd was driven 
into the corrals in Green Valley, Texas, forty-one 
strong. 

After the camels were drafted into actual 
service a variety of reports was given as to their 
behavior and value. Lieutenant Beale, who, as 
we have seen, used them in his wagon-road sur- 
vey, was enthusiastic in their praise. They actually 
carried a load of from seven hundred to a thou- 
sand pounds each, and although of uncertain tem- 
per when misused, w^ere docile and patient under 
proper treatment and not at all particular as to 
food, preferring brush to grass, and delighting in 
the mesquite beans of the Arizona desert. 

Other officers were not so enthusiastic. It soon 
developed that Hi Jolly and Greek George were the 
only ones who could keep seated when a camel 
really got to going, without being seasick or lashed 
to the saddle. The horses, until accustomed to the 
beasts, would stampede at the sight of them, and 
the soldiers assigned to duty as camel-valets devel- 
oped such a deep-rooted aversion for their charges 
that more than one calmly cut the tie ropes and 
reported that, having become unmanageable, their 
beasts had escaped to the desert. 

However, from Lieutenant Beale's experience. 



FILIBUSTERS IN MEXICO 131 

the probabilities are that if the men could have 
been taught to handle them properly the beasts 
would have performed useful work. Unfortu- 
nately, at the beginning of the Civil War the ex- 
periment was stopped, the camels then in Arizona 
were sent to Drum Barracks, near Los Angeles, 
and used occasionally upon trips to Fort Yuma. 

In 1866, a Frenchman bought the herd and took 
it to Nevada, hoping to use the camels as pack 
animals, but the feet of the beasts were unsuited 
to the stony mountain trails, and as before they 
stampeded every freight outfit they met. 

The unfortunate Frenchman took the animals 
to Yuma, where he suddenly died, and the beasts 
were turned loose on the desert. From then on 
they became nomadic pariahs, bugbears to freight- 
ers and prospectors. Picture an Overland Jack 
driving from his seat on the "nigh" wheeler six- 
teen shave-tail mules when suddenlj^ out from an 
arroyo in front of him, would appear these na- 
tives of the Sahara. After the shouting and the 
tumult had died down, Overland Jack, with the aid 
of his Mexican swamper, would gather his mules 
retrieved from miles around, get his harness 
patched up, and when he got back to his wagons 
and had time to really talk about it, what he 
would say about camels would be wholly unprint- 
able. Also, camel would be equally unpopular 
when the beast would walk through the corral 
fence of the keeper of a desert well and eat a hun- 
dred pounds of barley worth five cents a pound. So 
the freighter and the other desert travelers shot 



132 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

bactrians and dromedaries on sight, but for many 
years a remnant, grown wary through experience, 
remained. 

About these survivors all sorts of weird tales 
were told. There was the story of the camel who 
saved the life of an escaped convict by leading 
him to the Tenijas Altas Springs; there was the 
story of the big red bactrian who haunted the 
west bank of the Colorado, and when the moon 
was full would carry on his back a skeleton lashed 
to the saddle; and finally the yarn of a ghost of 
a crazy prospector who drove back and forth on 
the road to Ajo three equally ghostly dromedaries 
with packs laden with gold nuggets. 

The camel drivers remained in the Southwest 
the rest of their lives. Greek George, some time 
in the '70s, killed a man in New Mexico, and, 
rather than be captured, committed suicide. Hi 
Jolly for years followed the life of a prospector, 
outlived most of his charges, and, a grizzled old 
man, died in 1902, at Tyson's Wells, Arizona. 



Chapter XI 
THE VENGEANCE OF COCHISE 

IT will be remembered that in telling of the 
capture of Inez Gonzales, mention was made 
of other women who were stolen by her cap- 
tors — who were Pinalino Apaches — at the same 
time. One of these women was Jesus Salvador, 
the maid of Mercedes Pacheco, Inez's aunt. Jesus 
was compelled by one of the Pinalinos to become 
his wife, and, as a result of this union, there was 
born to the woman a child who was afterwards 
known as Mickey Free. 

Following several years of slavery and suffer- 
ing, the captive, taking her child with her, escaped 
to the friendly Pimas, who treated her with great 
kindness, escorting her to Mexican friends at Tuc- 
son. Later, in 1860, when Mickey Free was six 
years old, she became the housekeeper of one John 
Ward, who lived in the Valley of the Sonoita, 
about twelve miles below Fort Buchanan. One 
morning in October, 1860, when Ward was away 
from home, while the boy was trying to catch a 
burro, his pursuit led him into the arms of a. dozen 
Coyotero Apaches, who, planning to raid the ranch, 
were hiding in the rocks. Now, learning that there 
were no men about the place, the Apaches boldly 
broke open the corral, stole horses and oxen, and, 
133 



134 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

in spite of the mother's screams, rode away with 
the boy. When Ward returned, he took up the 
trail of the Indians and followed it to the San 
Pedro River. As the Ghiracahuas, under Cochise, 
lived in the Dragoon Mountains east of the San 
Pedro, Ward reached the hasty conclusion that the 
depredation had been committed by them, and, 
riding post haste to Fort Buchanan, reported the 
outrage to the commanding officer, Colonel Mor- 
rison. 

Cochise at that time was perhaps the most 
prominent Apache chief in Arizona. For the ten 
years following 1846, as an ally of Mangas Colo- 
rado, he had waged intermittent warfare against 
the advance of the soldiers, but in 1856, apparently 
convinced of the futility of attempting further 
combat with the United States, announced himself 
as the white man's friend, and later made a peace 
compact with the officials of the Butterfield stage 
line allowing them to build a station in the heart of 
his country, and supplying them with hay. 

Colonel Morrison detailed Lieut. George N. Bas- 
com, fresh from West Point, to take twelve men, 
including Sergt. R. F. Bernard, to visit Apache 
Pass, see Cochise and try to induce him to under- 
take the return of the boy. Never was a selection 
more unfortunately made. Bascom was every- 
thing a man should not be to successfully perform 
such a mission. Naturally overbearing and con- 
ceited, he had no knowledge whatever of Indian 
diplomacy, nor was he even endowed with good 



THE VENGEANCE OF COCHISE 135 

common sense, and regarded the powerful Cochise 
as simply a dirty Indian to be treated summarily 
and with contempt. When Bascom and his men 
reached the pass Cochise inet him unhesitatingly, 
and when Bascom bluntly announced that he 
wanted Cochise to at once give back the stolen 
boy, the chief truthfully said that he knew nothing 
about the child, but would make an immediate 
investigation, and if any of his people had the 
boy he would see that he was returned. This did 
not at all come up to what Bascom wanted. He 
had come to recover the child, and he had no 
notion of allowing a lot of filthy Indians to either 
deceive him or put him off. He gave an ultima- 
tum that Cochise should make his investigation 
immediately and report to him at a place two 
miles from the stage station where he planned to 
make his camp. 

The next day, in all good faith, Cochise came 
to the camp, bringing with him his brother and 
two nephews, and told Bascom that the abductors 
evidently belonged to anoflier tribe. He further 
said he would be glad to help locate them. How- 
ever, while he was still talking, the lieutenant 
abruptly announced that they were his prisoners, 
and had them put under guard in a Sibley tent. 
Not contenting himself with the folly of having 
arrested the most warlike chief in Arizona with- 
out cause, he completed his asininity by placing 
guards over them who had no cartridges in their 
rifles. 

Every Chiricahua carries a reserve knife in an 



136 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

under belt of his scanty costume. As soon as it 
was dark, Cochise cut his way out. With fixed 
bayonets, the guards were able to stop all the In- 
dians but Cochise who, with his great strength, 
thrust back guard and rifle, and though he had 
received a wound in the knee, escaped to the 
rocks with the Apache war-cry on his lips. 

Bascom, fearing an attack, returned to the stage 
station, and on the way picked up three more 
Apaches who were returning from Mexico. Soon 
after daylight Cochise appeared just out of rifle 
range and haughtily demanded his relatives, which 
request Bascom refused. The chieftain disap- 
peared and later that day captured two Americans 
named Jordan and Lyons, and afterwards took the 
station-keeper Wallace, who was on most friendly 
terms with both Cochise and his warriors. The 
Indians led their captives within hailing distance, 
where the white men advised Bascom that the 
Indians would exchange them for the Apache cap- 
tives, and had threatened them with torture if the 
exchange were not granted. To this request, ac- 
companied by an appeal from Sergeant Bernard, 
who appreciated how relentlessly Cochise would 
carry out his threat, with unbelievable cold-blood- 
edness this monstrous lieutenant refused, and 
entrenched himself and his men behind the rocky 
wall of the stage station. At a tense moment 
Lyons suddenly broke from his captors, and, run- 
ning to the wall to join the Americans, was shot 
by one of the soldiers who thought him an attack- 
ing Indian. To add to this horror, a mounted 



THE VENGEANCE OF COCHISE 137 

Apache suddenly cast his riata over Wallace's 
head, and, beating his pony into a dead run, 
dragged this unfortunate person to death. 

At last thoroughly frightened, Bascoin led a 
retreat. As the soldiers passed through Sulphur 
Springs Valley they saw before them, hanging to a 
tree, the ghastly bodies of the three Americans. 
To show that a white man and an officer could 
be as cold-blooded as an Apache, Bascom then 
hanged his six prisoners, and in that act precipi- 
tated the bloodiest Indian war of Arizona's his- 
tory. 

That night at the Chiricahua's war-dance, fol- 
lowing an ancient tribal custom, Cochise threw 
down his red turban with vows of vengeance 
against the whites, and from peak to peak, along 
the mountain rgnge through the darkness shone 
signal fires summoning the warriors to a bloody 
campaign of revenge. 

Only too well did Cochise keep his promise. 
Ranches and mines were raided, houses were 
burned, prospectors and settlers were tortured and 
murdered. A hundred stories could be told of 
heroic defenses made by settlers against the red 
demons — tales like that of the six men of "Free" 
Thompson's party who, armed with modern rifles 
and plenty of ammunition, withstood four hundred 
warriors under Cochise and Mangas Colorado for 
three days. But though they killed one hundred 
and thirty-five of the Indians, they themselves 
were finally slain. Still the raids kept on until 
practically every mine and rancho on the San 



138 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Pedro, the Sonoita and the Santa Cruz was left 
deserted and desolate, a feeding ground for the 
coyote and buzzard. 

The boy, Mickey Free, whose being caused all 
this unnecessary bloodshed, grew up among the 
Coyoteros as untruthful and unprincipled and as 
worthless a vagabond as is often seen. With long 
tawny hair, his appearance was as repulsive as 
his character was unlovely. Though utterly un- 
principled, he had wonderful ability in following 
a trail and, when grown, was occasionally used as 
a scout by the soldiers. He died on the Fort 
Apache Reservation, in 1913, at the age of seventy- 
seven. 



Chapter XII 
THE CIVIL WAR 

THE few Americans who had settled in the 
Gadsden Purchase prior to the Civil War, 
being for the most part from the South, 
were not only ready but eager to make their sec- 
tion a part of the Confederacy. While the pos- 
session of the Southwestern deserts, with the 
pestiferous Apaches thrown in as an inalienable 
hereditament, would be of no vast value to the 
South, yet the possession of that amount of terri- 
tory might be impressive to European nations, so 
it seems to have been considered worth while as 
a "pickup." Besides, the country itself would 
have some value as a highway over which troops 
might march to California. 

Some time in 1861 a convention was held at 
Tucson declaring Arizona Confederate country; 
in August, Granville H. Oury was elected by citi- 
zens of Tucson as delegate to the Southern Con- 
gress. In March, 1861, a convention was also held 
in Mesilla, which called itself a "Convention of the 
people of Arizona," presumably, like the Tucson 
meeting, representing the southern part of New 
Mexico, from its eastern border to the Rio Colo- 
rado. One of the Mesilla resolutions was: "We 
will not recognize the present black Republican 

139 



140 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

administration, and we will resist any officers ap- 
pointed to the Territory by said administration 
with whatever means in our power." 

Most of the army officers, like a majority of 
the settlers, were Southerners and took the first 
opportunity of leaving their commands to join the 
Confederate army, though the enlisted men, on 
the contrary, for the most part remained firm in 
their allegiance to the Union. 

The military posts at Breckenridge, Mojave 
and Buchanan were all abandoned early in the 
war, the order for such action coming to Buchanan 
from Maj. Gen. Isaac Lynde in June, 1861. It is 
said that there was a large amount of stores at 
Buchanan which had been ordered there earlier 
by the secretary of war in the expectation that 
afterwards it would fall into the hands of the new 
Confederacy, which it was felt would inevitably 
be formed. However, be that as it may, the offi- 
cers in charge of the post. Lieutenant Moore of the 
dragoons and Lieutenant Lord of the infantry, 
left little of value behind. The field pieces were 
spiked and buried, and all supplies that could not 
be carried away were wrecked or burned. The 
troops were marched to Fort Craig, New Mexico, 
where they joined the Union forces. 

Naturally, the settlers were very bitter over the 
abandonment of the post, and charged the local 
officers with cowardice and perfidy, but whatever 
odium was attached to their leaving the settlers 
without military protection against the Indians 
belonged to commanders higher up. 



THE CIVIL WAE 141 

The Apaches watched the soldiers march away 
with grim complacency, believing that it was a 
sign of recognition that the Indians had proven 
themselves too strong to subdue, and therefore 
the whites had finally abandoned the country. 
Immediately they started in to finish their harvest 
of pillage and murder against the settlers. One 
of their first acts was to go to the Heintzelman 
mines where, in spite of the miners' guns, in a 
night attack, they succeeded in running off a hun- 
dred and forty-six horses and mules. At Tubac, 
so Hinton tells us, a score or so of Americans 
withstood two hundred attacking Chiricahuas 
under Cochise throughout one entire day, and that 
night, shielded by darkness, an express rider got 
through the Indian line and reached Tucson in 
safety. Under Grant Oury a relief party was or- 
ganized, and twenty-five determined, well-armed 
men rode swiftly to Tubac, where, joining the 
beleaguered miners, they not only drove off the 
Apaches, but had the opportunity a little later of 
withstanding a party of Mexican bandits who 
came up from Sonora. The Mexicans fell back 
upon Tumacacori, where they murdered an old 
rancher whom even the Apaches had spared. 

Having good cause to fear that the Chiricahuas 
would soon return in increased numbers, all of 
the whites, not only from Tubac, but from all of 
the mines and ranches in the southern part of 
present Arizona, made hasty flight to Tucson, 
while the Mexicans who did not accompany them 
fled to the settlements of Sonora. 



142 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Meanwhile in the Mesilla Valley, Maj. Isaac 
Lynde, the same man who had written the order to 
abandon Fort Buchanan, commander of the Union 
garrison at Fort Fillmore, with five hundred well 
disciplined men, allowed himself to be defeated 
by two hundred and fifty untrained and poorly 
armed Texans, commanded by Lieut. Col. John R. 
Baylor. Lynde withdrew his troops, and when 
Baylor overtook him, cravenly surrendered his en- 
tire command. It was a disgraceful affair. Later, 
for this cowardice or treachery, he was dismissed 
from the army. 

Baylor reached Mesilla in July, 1861, and in a 
proclamation on August 1st organized the Terri- 
tory of Arizona, which had its north boundary 
on the thirty-fourth parallel (which runs just 
north of the present town of Wickenburg) and 
extended entirely across present Arizona and New 
Mexico. He named Mesilla as the capital, with 
himself as military governor. Thereafter the Con- 
federate Congress passed an enabling act for the 
Territory, which act was approved by Jefferson 
Davis, January 18, 1862, and on February 14th of 
the same year he issued the forming proclamation. 
Slavery, of course, was to be protected. 

Early in 1862 a military organization, styled the 
Arizona Guards, with headquarters at Mesilla, was 
mustered in for the stated purpose of protecting 
the settlers against the Indians. In March of the 
same year Baylor wrote a letter to Captain Helm, 
commander, which, as a military order, it may 
well be hoped, is unique in American army annals, 



THE CIVIL WAR 143 

and which made Baylor eligible to a place on the 
rolls of infamy along with Johnson and Glanton. 

"Sir: — I learn from Lieutenant Colonel Jackson 
that the Indians have been at your post for the 
purpose of making a treaty. The Congress of the 
Confederate States has passed a law declaring 
extermination of all hostile Indians. You will 
therefore use all possible means to persuade the 
Apaches, or any other tribes, to come in for mak- 
ing peace; and when you get them together, kill 
all the grown Indians and make the children pris- 
oners, and sell them to defray the expenses of 
killing the Indians. 

"Buy whisky and such other goods as may be 
necessary for the Indians, and I will order vouch- 
ers given to cover the amount expended. 

"Leave nothing undone to assure success and 
have a sufficient number of men around to allow 
no Indians to escape. Say nothing about your 
orders till the time arrives, and be cautious how 
you let the Mexicans know it. If you can't trust 
them, send to Captain Aycock at this place and 
he will send you thirty men from his company. 
Betfer use the Mexicans, if they can be trusted, as 
bringing troops from here might excite suspicion 
with the Indians. 

"To your judgment I entrust this important 
matter, and look for success against these cursed 
pests who have already murdered over one hun- 
dred men in this Territory." 

Later, Baylor, in one of his campaigns against 
the Indians, is said to have poisoned a sack of flour 



144 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

which killed fifty or sixty natives. When Presi- 
dent Davis learned of this episode he promptly 
deprived him of his commission in the Confed- 
erate army and his title of governor of Arizona. 

Early in 1862 a troop of Texan cavalry, num- 
bering between one and two hundred, in command 
of Capt. S. Hunter, had started west, reaching 
Tucson February 28th, where it was given a most 
cordial welcome by the inhabitants. 

The Confederates seem to have had some 
hopes that Sonora would forswear her allegiance 
to the Mexican Republic and join the new cause, 
and soon after Hunter arrived at Tucson, Colonel 
Reilly, with an escort of twenty men under Lieu- 
tenant Tevis, was sent with a letter from General 
Sibley to Governor Pesquiera at Hermosillo; but 
other than arranging for the purchase of supplies, 
nothing came of it. 

On March 3d, Hunter, with the rest of his com- 
mand, proceeded to the Pima villages, where he 
confiscated fifteen hundred sacks of wheat, which 
a trader, A. M. White, who operated a flour mill 
in the village, had bought from the Indians for the 
use of the Union soldiers then at Fort Yuma. In- 
stead of destroying the wheat. Hunter returned it 
to the Indians. It was reported, but erroneously, 
however, that a large wagon train was on its way 
eastward for the wheat, and while waiting for its 
arrival Hunter's pickets noticed, through the 
chaparral, the approach of a squad of mounted 
Unionists — nine members of the First California 
Cavalry, under Captain McCleave. 



THE CIVIL WAR 145 

The Confederate pickets surprised and cap- 
tured them without firing a gun, and McGleave, 
together with the trader White, was sent in charge 
of Lieut. Jack Swilling to Baylor. 

Hunter then dispatched a squad of men west- 
ward to destroy supplies of hay that had been 
deposited at several stations on the old Butterfield 
stage line for use of the Union army advancing 
from California. This squad reached a point fifty 
miles from the Colorado, the farthest point west- 
ward penetrated by the Confederacy. 

At this time the Union forces in southern Cali- 
fornia consisted for the most part of volunteers 
under the command of Col. James H. Carleton of 
the First California Cavaliy. The main body of 
this army had left Los Angeles and concentrated 
at Fort Yuma in April, where it consisted of ten 
companies of First California Infantry directly 
commanded by Colonel Carleton, five troops of 
First California Cavalry under Lieut. Col. E. E. 
Eyre, and field artillery with four brass field pieces 
under Lieut. John B. Shinn. 

Following the McCleave party, a stronger force 
was sent east from Yuma consisting of one com- 
pany of infantry, a part of a company of cavalry 
and two small howitzers, with Capt. William P. 
Calloway in command. The party passed the 
Pima villages, and, on April 15, 1862, they were 
apprised by their Indian scouts that a force of 
Confederate cavalry was just ahead of them, which 
was Hunter's command returning to Tucson. A 
detachment of cavalry under Lieutenant Barrett 



146 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

was ordered to make a wide detour and strike the 
enemy on the flank, by which time it was thought 
the main column would be there to make a simul- 
taneous attack from the rear. However, Barrett 
and his men traveled faster than was anticipated, 
and reaching its objective at Picacho Pass, made 
a sharp attack before the supporting column ar- 
rived. In the engagement Barrett and two of his 
men were killed and three wounded. Two of the 
Confederates also were wounded and three taken 
prisoners. This skirmish was the only engage- 
ment of any kind between the Federals and the 
Confederates in what is now Arizona. 

Although the force led by Calloway was much 
superior to Hunter's, he fell back to Stanwick Stage 
Station, eighty miles from Yuma, where he joined 
the advancing California column under Lieutenant 
Colonel West. When this army reached the Pima 
villages, defensive earthworks were thrown up 
around White's mill, and, in honor of the officer 
who had been killed at Picacho, named Fort Bar- 
rett. A force under Lieutenant Colonel Eyre was 
sent to occupy Fort Breckenridge, and the main 
column under Lieutenant Colonel West, moved 
forward to Tucson, where it arrived April 20th. 

Buchanan was also occupied and the name 
Breckenridge changed to Fort Stanford. 

Before the Unionists had reached Tucson, 
Hunter had already passed through the town and 
was on his way to Mesilla, together with a number 
of the most prominent Tucson Confederates. 
When the command reached Dragoon Springs it 



THE CIVIL WAR 147 

was set upon by a large force of Apaches, who evi- 
dently thought that the soldiers must be given 
another decisive lesson. Four of Hunter's men 
were killed and thirty-five mules and twenty horses 
lost. Soon after this Carleton arrived at Tucson, 
where he established his headquarters. En route 
he stopped at the Pima villages and was so im- 
pressed by the appearance of the Indians that he 
recommended that a hundred muskets be given 
them as a defense against the Apaches. 

Tucson at that time was the rendezvous for as 
malodorous a lot of criminals and desperadoes — 
fugitives from both Texas and California — as is 
often found in one place. Carleton at once pro- 
claimed martial law, and announced himself mili- 
tary governor. Then he proceeded to clean up the 
town, so, as he said, "When a man does have his 
throat cut, his house robbed or his field ravaged, 
he may at least have the consolation of knowing 
that there is some law that will reach him who 
did the injury." As a start he sent nine of the "cut- 
throats, gamblers and loafers" to Yuma for im- 
prisonment. This action won him much praise, 
more than another official act which he performed 
soon afterwards, when he caused the arrest for 
treason of Sylvester Mowry, principal owner of 
the Mowry mine and delegate to the Confederate 
Congress. The arrest was made upon informa- 
tion furnished by the metallurgist at the Mowry 
mine. Mowry was brought to Tucson and tried 
by court martial, headed by Lieutenant Colonel 
West. He was found guilty of having had trea- 



148 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

sonable correspondence with well known Seces- 
sionists, and was taken to Yuma for confinement. 
The imprisonment seems to have been only nomi- 
nal, and after six months, his case being investi- 
gated by General Wright, commander of the 
Pacific Department, he was released. 

As a sidelight on Tucson life during those 
days we learn from Carleton's orders that "every 
gambling house in Tucson must pay a tax of a 
hundred dollars a month and every keeper of a 
bar must pay a similar amount." 

In June, Carleton was advanced to the rank of 
brigadier general. That same month he started 
Lieutenant Colonel Eyre eastward with a hundred 
and forty cavalrymen to join General Canby's 
Union forces in New Mexico. At Dragoon Springs 
they were met by about a hundred Apaches who 
insisted upon a peace talk and tobacco. While 
that was going on, three soldiers were ambushed 
and killed. The murderers, though pursued, were 
not captured. 

On July 20th, under Carleton's orders, Colonel 
West, with five companies of infantry, started for 
New Mexico, and two days later was followed by 
Lieutenant Shinn's battery with two companies of 
infantry, and, after another two days' wait, four 
more companies proceeded eastward under Lieu- 
tenant Colonel Rigg. As a vanguard went Capt. 
Thomas Roberts with Company E, First Califor- 
nia Infantry, who, on reaching Apache Pass, was 
intercepted by Chiricahuas, whereupon followed 
the most serious battle ever fought in Arizona 
between Americans and Indians. 



THE CIVIL WAR 149 

Cochise, with rancor still eating into his heart 
from Lieutenant Bascom's insults, had never 
stopped his bloody business of revenge, and when 
Mangas Colorado wanted his help to drive out a 
hundred and forty miners from Pinos Altos, 
Cochise gave his consent provisional upon the great 
Mimbres coming over to help him wipe out the 
American soldiers. 

Mangas had fully as bitter hatred against the 
whites as Cochise, for the miners at Santa Rita del 
Cobre, discovering the chief in a plot to kill them, 
had tied him to a tree and whipped him. As a 
result of all this there were five hundred Chirica- 
huas and two hundred Mimbres waiting at Apache 
Pass to dispute the passage of the American troops. 

Captain Roberts, wholly unsuspecting an at- 
tack, entered the defile without making any pre- 
liminary reconnoissance whatsoever, and was two- 
thirds of the way through when a terrific volley of 
musket fire was directed at his men from Apaches 
hidden behind rocks and trees on the towering 
canyon sides. Cremony says, "Every tree con- 
cealed an armed warrior, and each warrior boasted 
his rifle, six-shooter and knife." The soldiers fired 
in return, but in their exposed position, shooting 
at an enemy whom they could not see, made re- 
treat the only alternative of extermination. The 
troops retired in good order and re-formed at the 
mouth of the canyon. 

As the men had marched forty miles without 
water, it was absolutely necessary that they reach 
the spring in the heart of the pass. There was an 



150 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

overland stage station house made of stone about 
six hundred yards from the spring, and this Cap- 
tain Roberts made his objective. On the high hills 
overlooking the spring the Indians had built stone 
breastworks from which they kept up an ever- 
increasing fire at the again advancing soldiers. 
After some bungling on the part of the artillery- 
men, the howitzers were put into action. The 
Apaches were quite accustomed to rifles by this 
time, but these belching wagons that hurled great 
fire balls which, exploding, could kill a dozen men, 
were too much for their nerves. They abandoned 
their fortifications and fled pellmell in all direc- 
tions. To again quote Gremony: 

"In this fight Roberts had two men killed and 
three men wounded, and I afterwards learned 
from a prominent Apache who was present in the 
engagement that sixty-three warriors were killed 
outright by the shells, while only three perished 
from musketry fire. The Indian said, 'We would 
have done well enough if you hadn't fired wagons 
at us.' " 

The next day, with Cremony's cavalry added to 
the white men's force, the Apaches again sought 
to engage the soldiers, but after the howitzers 
once more shelled the hills, Cremony's rough riders 
charged straight at them, and a few minutes later 
the landscape was covered with fleeing, thoroughly 
frightened Indians. This time the Chiricahuas had 
had enough and did not return. 

Two miles beyond Apache Springs the soldiers 
found the remains of nine miners from Pinos 



THE CIVIL WAR 151 

Altos whom the Apaches had murdered, one of 
which had been burned at the stake. 

It is said that at this time, for fourteen miles on 
either side of the pass, the bones of slain oxen, 
horses and mules and the wreckage of wagons 
were so thick that one could almost travel the 
entire distance without setting foot upon the 
ground, and the graves that lined the road gave 
mute testimony as to what had become of the 
people to whom the caravans belonged. 

When he learned of the battle. General Carle- 
ton established a military post in Apache Pass 
which he called Fort Bowie, and garrisoned it 
with a hundred men of the Fifth Infantry and 
thirteen men of the First Cavalry. 

In September, 1862, Carleton succeeded General 
Canby as commander of the Department of New 
Mexico, and Maj. Davis Fergusson was put in 
charge of the soldiers that were left in Arizona. 



Chapter XIII 

PROSPECTING PARTIES IN CIVIL 
WAR TIMES 

THE principal occupations of the citizens of 
Arizona during Civil War days were fight- 
ing, mining and gambling. Sometimes 
these vocations were conducted separately, usually 
the three went together. With hostile Apaches 
scattered from the eastern border nearly to the 
Colorado, prospecting, if engaged in by small 
groups of men, was apt to be an invitation to sud- 
den death; nevertheless there were bold spirits 
who were so insistent in their quest for the Golden 
Fleece that even the menace of the Tontos or 
Coyoteros could not deter them. The most im- 
portant of the mining expeditions which pros- 
pected in Arizona during this period was known as 
the Walker party and was notable not only for 
the fact that its members were the first men to 
systematically prospect for gold in the central part 
of the Territory, but also for the reason that their 
explorations had an important bearing upon the 
location of Arizona's first capital. 

In 1862 "Capt." Joseph Walker came to the 
Southwest from Colorado at the head of a party of 
forty adventurers. The men were well armed, and 
although they stated that their one purpose in the 

152 



PROSPECTING PARTIES 153 

country was to search for valuable minerals, the 
Federal authorities watched them closely, evi- 
dently fearing that they were really Secessionists 
who were planning some coup to aid the Confed- 
erate cause. 

The story of their long journey through regions 
heretofore unknown, the hardships they endured, 
the many perils they overcame is too extended to 
be recorded here. Space, however, must be 
claimed to mention the capture of Mangas Colo- 
rado through their aid and the death of the great 
chief at their camp. There have been many con- 
flicting stories told of the event, but the narrative 
of D. E. Conner, the historian of the expedition, 
bears the marks of truth. When in February, 
1863, they were camped at Fort McLean, fifteen 
miles southwest of Silver City, Walker was told 
by a Mexican that Mangas Colorado, with five hun- 
dred Apaches, was on the west side of the Cordil- 
leras not far from Finos Altos. The old chief 
and his warriors had been dogging the steps of the 
party all winter, ambushing them at water holes, 
and otherwise harassing them, so Walker boldly 
decided to try to capture Mangas and hold him 
as a guarantee of good behavior by his followers. 
A half a company of California volunteers, with 
Capt. Ed Shirland, chanced to visit the Walker 
camp that day, and when Shirland heard of the 
plan to get Mangas he promptly agreed to take an 
active part. 

In order to avoid having thefr intention con- 
veyed to the old chief by smoke signals from 



154 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Apaches near the camp, about half of the Walker 
party and half of the soldiers slipped away on 
their mission before daylight. At Pinos Altos, 
just before the summit was reached, Walker 
picked up the ubiquitous Jack Swilling — whom the 
party had chanced upon at Mesilla — and put him 
in charge of an advanced guard, while he with the 
rest of his men and the soldiers were to hide them- 
selves in the old buildings of the camp and the 
chaparral. Swilling, with his handful of men, 
walked up the trail leading to the summit. To 
quote Conner: 

"All was silent; not a human being was seen. 
Suddenly Swilling issued a warwhoop that might 
have made an Apache ashamed of himself. There 
was a short delay when Mangas, a tremendously 
big man, with over a dozen Indians for a body 
guard, was seen in the distance walking towards 
us. . . . Jack left us and walked to meet 
Mangas. . . . Swilling, though six feet tall, 
looked like a boy beside the chief." At a sign 
from Swilling, his companions covered Mangas 
and his bodyguard with their rifles. The other 
Indians were sent back, but the chief was forced 
to accompany his captors. As they led him over 
the brow of the hill, the soldiers suddenly came 
out from their hiding places, "disgusting Mangas 
beyond measure." 

Although momentarilj'^ expecting pursuit, the 
party got the old chief over the fifteen miles to 
the Walker camp without molestation. The 
prisoner was dressed in a cheap, checkered shirt 



PROSPECTING PARTIES 155 

and ordinary overalls cut off at the knees. In dig- 
nified silence he strode among his white captors, 
towering head and shoulders above them. That 
night the chief slept on the ground near the camp 
fire. Conner, who was on guard, noticed, about 
nine o'clock, that the soldiers were "doing some- 
thing to Mangas," but quit when Conner came to 
the fire. Afterwards, observing them from the 
darkness, Conner saw them heat their bayonets 
and apply them to the Indian's feet and legs. At 
this the old chief rose on his elbow, crying out 
that he was no child, to be played with. There- 
upon the two soldiers fired at the chief with their 
Minie muskets, and followed that with two more 
shots from their navy revolvers. "Mangas fell 
back into the same position he had occupied and 
never moved." 

From the camp where the great chief was slain 
the Walker party journeyed over the mountains 
prospecting en route. Ultimately they reached 
Tucson, from which point they went, first to the 
Pima villages and then north, through mountain- 
ous country, to the headwaters of the Hassayampa, 
near the present town of Prescott, where they lo- 
cated, thoroughly prospecting the hills and val- 
leys of the region, finding gold in many places. 

Another group of miners, which about that 
same time entered central Arizona, was known as 
the Weaver party, from Pauline Weaver, one of its 
members. The party, which seems to have con- 
sisted of eleven men, left Fort Yuma early in 
April of 1863, journeying up the Colorado to Bill 



156 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Williams Fork and continuing along that stream 
fifty miles or so; then, leaving the fork, it reached 
what is now known as Antelope Mountain, and, 
after finding gold in a creek bed, continued pros- 
pecting up to the top of the peak, where it found 
the richest surface diggings ever discovered in 
the State. On one day three of the men, scratch- 
ing around in the gravel with their butcher knives 
— as they tell it — obtained over $1,800 in nuggets. 

Word of the strike was carried to Maricopa 
Wells, a station on the old Butterfield stage line, 
and there was an immediate rush of miners to the 
Weaver district, as it was then called, who later 
mingled with members of the Walker party and 
shared their prosperity. 

At Lynx Greek one nugget was found which was 
worth $900. Rich finds were also made on the 
Hassayampa and Granite Greek. Later, placer 
mining gave way to the working of lodes, a de- 
tailed account of which will be given in a subse- 
quent chapter. 



Chapter XIV 

ARIZONA A POLITICAL ENTITY 

THERE is no more romantic story in all of 
Arizona's history than is the one which 
tells of its birth as one of the common- 
wealths of the nation. After many petitions by 
mass meetings and conventions and many a per- 
sonal appeal from such energetic citizens as 
Poston and Mowry for separate government, 
finally, in the winter of 1862-63, Congress passed 
the enabling act of the Territory of Arizona, which 
was approved by President Lincoln, February 24, 
1863. 

This, it will be remembered, was not the first 
time that territorial honors were conferred upon 
the people of the section, for on February 14, 1862, 
Jefferson Davis, by proclamation, had done his 
best to give territorial being to Arizona, but where 
the Arizona formed by the Confederacy included 
the southern portion of both New Mexico and 
Arizona, the Arizona of the Federal Government, 
save that it included a section of lower Nevada, 
had boundaries much the same as they are now. 

There were cogent reasons given at the time 
why, after its many years of procrastination. Con- 
gress suddenly awoke to this section's needs. One 
was that Arizona could be made into a strong 
Union State, which would be valuable to have 
157 



158 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

lying between Texas and California; another, that 
every territory must have a set of officials ap- 
pointed by the President, and it happened at this 
time that there were a number of "good men and 
true" in Washington who were not at all averse 
to accepting just the kind of offices the forming 
of the territory would create. As one of these ter- 
ritorial offices was destined to be filled by none 
other than our old friend Colonel Poston, his 
account of the way it all happened may be not 
without interest. 

"At a meeting in Congress in December, 1862, 
I returned to Washington, made friends with Lin- 
coln, and proposed the organization of the Terri- 
tory of Arizona. Oury . . . was in Richmond 
cooling his heels in the ante-chamber of the Con- 
federate Congress without gaining admission as 
delegate from Arizona. Mowry was a prisoner in 
Yuma, cooling his head from the political fever 
which afflicted it. . . . There was no other per- 
son in Washington, save General Heintzelman, 
who took any interest in Arizona affairs. . . . 
Many didn't even know where Arizona was. 

"Old Ben Wade, chairman of the Committee on 
Territories, took a lively and bold interest in the 
organization of the Territory, and Ashley, chair- 
man of the committee in the House, told me how 
to accomplish the object. He said there were a 
number of the members of the expiring Congress 
who had been defeated in their own districts for 
the next term and wanted to go west and offer 
their political services to the 'galoots,' and if they 



ARIZONA A POLITICAL ENTITY 159 

could be grouped and a satisfactory slate made, 
they would have influence enough to carry the bill 
through Congress. Consequently an 'oyster sup- 
per' was organized, to which the lame ducks were 
invited, and then and there the Territory was 
virtually organized. So the slate was made and 
the bargain concluded, but towards the last it 
occurred to my obfusticated brain that my name 
did not appear on the slate. ... I exclaimed, 
'Gentlemen, what is to become of me?' Gurley 
politely replied, 'Oh, we'll make you Indian agent.' 
So the bill passed and Lincoln signed all the com- 
missions, and the oyster supper was paid for, and 
we were all happy and Arizona was launched upon 
the political sea." 

Poston was not a man to let undue accuracy of 
detail spoil a good story. If there were any lame 
ducks among the officials at the time they were 
appointed, an Arizona environment certainly had 
a remedial and restorative effect upon their in- 
firmities, for, once entered upon their duties, they 
proved to be competent and conscientious officials. 
The original appointments, made in March, 1863, 
were as follows: Governor, John A. Gurley of 
Ohio; secretary, Richard C. McCormick of New 
York; chief justice, John N. Goodwin of Maine; 
associate justices, William T. Howell of Michigan 
and Joseph P. AUyn of Connecticut; district attor- 
ney, John Titus of Pennsylvania; marshal, Milton 
B. Duffield of California; Indian affairs, Charles 
D. Poston of Arizona. 

However, many delays occurred before the 



160 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

forming of the commonwealth actually took place. 
On August 18th, after a Ungering illness, Governor 
Gurley died and John N. Goodwin was appointed 
in his place, and the chief justiceship was given to 
William F. Turner of Iowa. Then Titus resigned 
and Almon Gage of New York was made district 
attorney. Levi Bashford was appointed surveyor 
general. 

Poston journeyed westward by the way of San 
Francisco, where he was joined by DufTield, and 
the two, accompanied by J. Ross Brown, a noted 
California writer, made a tour of the Territory 
before assuming their duties. Most of the other 
officials traveled overland by Government trans- 
portation from Fort Leavenworth, A most re- 
markable thing about this official journey was that 
when the party started it had no definite destina- 
tion. Just where the new capital was to be located 
had been left to the territorial officials, and they 
were withholding their decision. 

Tucson, as the most important town of the 
section, was believed to be wholly under Confed- 
erate influence and therefore undesirable. By the 
time the officials arrived at Santa Fe the reports 
of the gold strike in central Arizona reached them. 
The country in the vicinity of the gold camps was 
described as not only abounding in natural re- 
sources, but full of native beauty and with a splen- 
did climate. 

Many of the settlers that were occupying the 
region were former members of the California 
Column, and therefore Unionists. So the officials 



ARIZONA A POLITICAL ENTITY 161 

decided, at that time, to found the capital some- 
where in this new section where it might be wholly 
American and with a citizenry loyal to Wash- 
ington. 

Accompanied by a military escort, the party 
resumed its westward way through north central 
New Mexico, and, on December 27, 1863, passed 
what they believed to be the one hundred and 
ninth degree of longitude, which was to be ap- 
proximately the eastern border of Arizona. How- 
ever, to be on the safe side, the party traveled two 
days more, and, at Navajo Springs, in what is now 
Apache County, made camp. 

Here among the cedars, with the ground snow- 
clad, the flag was raised and cheered, and the offi- 
cials sworn in by the chief justice. Secretary Mc- 
Cormick then made a brief address and the gov- 
ernor read his proclamation, fixing the seat of 
government for the Territory, for the time being, 
at Fort Whipple, which, on December 21, 1863, 
had been established in the Little Chino Valley. 
By January 22d the officials had all reached the 
post and entered upon their duties. On May 18th 
the capital was moved to a site on Granite Creek, 
where, under towering pines and in sight of pic- 
turesque rolling hills and rugged mountains, the 
first rude administrative buildings were erected. 

The settlement which grew up around the capi- 
tol was organized into a town on May 30th at a 
well attended meeting, and was named for the 
celebrated historian, Prescott. 

The first election held in Arizona after its or- 



162 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

ganization, July 18, 1864, was for delegate to 
Congress and for members to the Territorial Legis- 
lature. Poston, who was well known in the south- 
ern part of the Territory as well as in the north, 
was elected to represent the new commonwealth 
at Washington. The total votes cast were as fol- 
lows: C. D. Poston, Unionist, 514; Charles Leib, 
Unionist, 226; William D. Brandshaw, Democrat, 
66; William J. Berry, 48; S. Adams, 31. 

It is interesting to note that Poston's bill for 
mileage in journeying to the nation's capitol was 
$7,000. He went by the way of Panama, probably 
for the reason that there was no passenger service 
at the time around The Horn. 

The nine councilmen elected included one law- 
yer, three farmers, one merchant, one printer and 
three miners. 

In the "House" there were one lawyer, one 
farmer, two merchants, seven miners, one sur- 
veyor, one wheelwright, two mining engineers, one 
carpenter, one hotel keeper and one physician. 

When the Legislature convened Coles Bash- 
ford, a Tucson attorney, was chosen president of 
the Council, and W. Claude Jones, also a member 
of Tucson's legal fraternity, elected speaker of the 
House. 

It is not within the scope of this volume, even 
if space permitted, to make an extensive record 
of Arizona's political history, but simply mention 
such events as have special prominence by reason 
of their essential bearing on the development of 
the commonwealth or from their picturesqueness, 



ARIZONA A POLITICAL ENTITY 163 

so, while we refrain from mentioning the names of 
all of the distinguished gentlemen who served their 
State and nation in early Arizona days, we shall 
not attempt to apologize for devoting a paragraph 
to a story that illustrates the manners and minds 
of the State's pioneers. The anecdote was told by 
Judge Ed Wells of Prescott: "A sufficient state 
of cleanliness and the possession of garments of 
such purity as would be suitable and creditable 
to the high station he sought were the only requi- 
sites necessary" (to a candidate for office) . "One 
of the chosen candidates" (for the Legislature) 
"was possessed of an ample fund of the former 
qualifications, but was found largely wanting in 
the latter, and it was discovered that his opponents 
in other localities had woven his shortcomings into 
political capital. A public meeting was called, 
. . . our candidate was taken to the creek, vig- 
orously scrubbed, gorgeously robed with articles 
donated for the occasion, put astride a mule and 
sent forth to battle. He was elected by a large 
majority and served with distinction during the 
whole term." 

The Territory was sadly in need of more and 
better roads, and the first Legislature gave licenses 
to men to construct toll roads and franchises to 
build ferries on the Colorado River. Endeavors 
were even made to induce railroad building. 

Naturally, the Apache menace was ever in the 
minds of the Legislature, and they authorized the 
issue of $100,000 in bonds to equip a body of mili- 
tia to combat the savages. Unfortunately, how- 



164 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

ever, the commission appointed to sell the bonds 
was unable to do so. The Territory finally secured 
four companies of local volunteers, as is shown in 
another chapter. 

Arizona's first code of laws was prepared by 
Judge William T. Howell, who was appointed as 
a commissioner for that purpose by the governor, 
which code was adopted by the Legislature. The 
only school within the Territory at that time was 
one at the San Xavier Mission, where Padre Mes- 
saya instructed classes of Mexicans and Papagos. 
Recognizing the need of more schools, the Legis- 
lature recommended that appropriations be given 
to towns for maintaining schools where the num- 
ber of children would warrant. 

The Territory was divided into four counties, 
all of which were given Indian names — Pima, 
Yuma, Mojave and Yavapai. 

Judge E. W. Wells of Prescott states that in 
1863, as the necessary machinery for levying and 
collecting taxes had not as yet been put into mo- 
tion, that each resident of the Prescott district 
placed a valuation on his property and paid taxes 
on the amount so assessed. 

Attempts were made by the first Legislature to 
remove the capital, first to La Paz, then to Walnut 
Grove, and finally to a city — yet to be built — to be 
called "Aztlan," at a point within ten miles of the 
junction of the Rio Verde and Rio Salado. These 
various motions were defeated only by small 
majorities. 

The second election within the new Territory 



ARIZONA A POLITICAL ENTITY 165 

was held in September, 1864, at which ballots were 
again cast for members of the Territorial Legis- 
lature and delegate to Congress. The congres- 
sional candidates were as follows : J. N. Goodwin, 
C. D. Poston and Joseph P. Allyn, all Unionists. 
Goodwin was elected on a total vote of 707, against 
260 for Poston and 381 for Allyn. It is notable 
that while Tucson was largely populated by south- 
ern sympathizers, that there was no Democratic 
congressional candidate nominated. Indeed, party 
politics continued to occupy a subordinate place 
in Arizona elections down to the '80s. The place 
of Goodwin, who resigned as governor to become 
delegate, was filled by the former secretary of the 
Territory, Richard McCormick, who thereafter was 
Arizona's chief executive to 1869. 

The second Territorial Legislature, which con- 
vened December &, 1865, was made up of eight 
councilmen and ten representatives. 

In his message to the Legislature, Acting Gov- 
ernor McCormick (he had not yet received his 
formal appointment) urged the legislators to en- 
courage the occupation of agriculture, and re- 
ferred to the successful work of farmers upon the 
Verde, and at Walnut Grove and upon the Has- 
sayampa. It did not seem to occur to him that 
farming could be successfully prosecuted on the 
deserts to the south. 

Governor McCormick also suggested that it 
would be very desirable for Arizona to acquire the 
port of Libertad on the Gulf of California, and 
mentions that Prescott was the only one of the 



166 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

four towns that had taken advantage of the act 
of the first Legislature appropriating moneys for 
schools. The towns that had not lived up to their 
opportunities were Tucson, La Paz and Mojave. 

He enjoined the strictest economy upon the law- 
makers and called attention to the fact that the 
Howell code made provision that, whenever the 
discoverer of a mine located a claim for himself, 
he was required to locate an adjoining claim for 
the Territory. He stated that in the opinion of the 
attorney general of the Territory the provision was 
strictly legal. 

The first act passed by the Legislature created, 
in the northwest corner of the Territory, the 
County of Pah-Ute. In the Territory's original 
form it included a portion of the southern end of 
Nevada. Later, when Arizona was cut down to 
its present boundaries Pah-Ute County was abol- 
ished, the lands it still retained going to Mojave. 

A tax law was given to the Territory in which 
negroes as well as Indians were exempted from a 
$3 poll tax. 

A wife was given the right to hold in severalty 
any property which she possessed before mar- 
riage. The husband was given a similar right. 

A census taken in 1866 gave the population of 
the Territory as follows: 

Pima County 2,115 

Yavapai County 1,612 

Yuma County 810 

Pah-Ute County 541 

Mojave County 448 

5^ 



ARIZONA A POLITICAL ENTITY 167 

In the fall election, 1866, Poston for the third 
time was a candidate for delegate to Congress, his 
opponents being Coles Bashford and Samuel 
Adams. Bashford was elected, receiving 1,009 
votes; Poston second, with 518; Adams third, with 
168. It is reassuring to note in Governor McCor- 
mick's message to the third Legislature that there 
was the substantial balance in the territorial treas- 
ury of $249.50, but in spite of this opulence the 
governor, with wise frugality, advised economy. 
Still the future looked bright to the executive, for 
he stated to his lawmakers that the Territory's 
lodes of gold ore "showed prominence and size" 
and silver mines below the Gila on the Colorado 
"show great wealth." He was also sure that the 
copper lodes on the Colorado were but an "ear- 
nest" of the importance which this metal would 
command later. 

When the Legislature got down to work it pre- 
pared for "Big Business" which was soon expected 
by passing laws under which corporations might 
organize. Also, feeling that in many sections the 
citizen must be prepared to defend his person and 
family and possibly administer his own laws, it 
exempted from taxation arms and accoutrements 
owned by any person for "private use." 

The Legislature also authorized the attorney 
general to settle with William S. Oury for a hun- 
dred and five muskets and much ammunition be- 
longing to the Territory, which Oury took to equip 
a company of the Arizona volunteers, but which 
arms and ammunition had mysteriously disap- 



168 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

peared — in all of which, it developed, there was a 
story. It seemed that Governor Pesquiera of 
Sonora was to furnish the men if Oury furnished 
the arms, but instead of using the men so furnished 
to fight Arizona Apaches, the resourceful governor 
of Sonora took both the men and guns south across 
the border and used them against the Emperor 
Maximilian. According to Capt. M. G. Calder- 
wood of the Arizona volunteers, who tells the 
story in Parish's most interesting "History of Ari- 
zona," a Mexican gentleman one evening asked 
him for permission to camp in the "Potrero" 
(Pete Kitchin's ranch) near by. Permission was 
granted, and behold! the next morning when the 
Arizona officers awoke the entire Calabasas pla- 
teau was covered with Governor Pesquiera's army 
and personal retinue, which had fled across the 
border about four jumps ahead of Maximilian's 
troopers. 

Perhaps, owing to matters not wholly disasso- 
ciated with the Monroe doctrine, Maximilian was 
persona non grata to the Arizona volunteers, who 
were, therefore, at all times ready to supply arms 
and ammunition to his adversaries. If Pesquiera 
took the guns back with him at this time they may 
have given him substantial aid, for soon thereafter 
he was again in command in Sonora. 

In 1868 R. C. McCormick left the executive chair 
of the State to become its representative in Con- 
gress, making the fourth Republican in succession 
to fill that important office. He was continued as 
delegate until 1874, when he was followed by 



ARIZONA A POLITICAL ENTITY 169 

Hiram S. Stephens, the first regularly elected 
Democrat sent by Arizona to Washington. Ste- 
phens' opponents were G. C. Bean, Republican, and 
John Smith, also a Republican. 

Stephens was said to have given over $25,000 to 
the gamblers of the Territory to bet on him, the 
gamblers to retain the winnings, but to return to 
Stephens the amount advanced. As the gamblers 
and their followers in the Territory seemed to be 
in sufficient numbers to hold a balance of power, 
Stephens was elected. 

In 1876 he ran again, winning over W. H. Hardy, 
Republican, and Granville H. Oury, Democrat, by 
a small majority. 

The fourth Arizona Legislature, held in 1867, 
moved the capital from Prescott to Tucson. 

The sixth, in 1871, changed the county seat of 
Yuma County from the decaying city of La Paz to 
Arizona Gity, which in 1873 had its name rechris- 
tened, Yuma. Following the precedents estab- 
lished by the first Legislature, the seventh (1873) 
granted a divorce to no less a distinguished gentle- 
man than the governor of the Territory, Anson 
P. K. Safford, from his wife, Jenny L. T. Saff ord. 

The eighth Legislature (1875) resoluted that the 
capital should be permanently located at Tucson, 
but this did not interfere with the ninth, in 1877, 
blithely taking it back to Prescott again. 

The tenth Legislature seemed to feel it incum- 
bent upon itself to rectify all of the connubial mis- 
matings of the Territory, for at one fell swoop it 
granted divorces to fifteen couples, including 



170 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

John J. Gosper, the secretary of the Territory, and 
his wife. Although these divorces were legal 
enough, the exercising of such powers by western 
territories seemed to have become something of a 
national scandal, for the forty-ninth Congress put 
a stop to it by national enactment. 

John P. Hoyt, the fourth governor of Arizona, 
was a Hayes appointee who filled the office but a 
year, and was succeeded by John C. Fremont, 
whom Bancroft says was appointed merely that his 
chronic poverty might be relieved. 

Fremont held office for three years after his 
appointment, made in 1878, during which time he 
was much in the East. The feeling that he 
neglected his official duties grew so strong and 
criticism against him so persistent that in 1881 he 
resigned, when the official chair was temporarily 
filled by Secretary Gosper. 

Frederick A. Tritle was appointed in March, 
1881, under President Arthur, to succeed Fremont. 
Coming from Virginia City, Nevada, he at once 
identified himself with all the interests of his new 
home, where a delightful personality, added to his 
marked ability as an executive, made him very 
popular. 

In 1880, Granville H. Oury, who in the earlier 
days had been elected a delegate to the Confed- 
erate Congress, and in 76 had been defeated by 
Stephens as a delegate to the National Congress, 
was finally elected to that honor, winning over 
M. W. Stewart, Republican. In 1884 the balances 
again tipped and a Republican, C. C. Bean, was 



ARIZONA A POLITICAL ENTITY 171 

given the congressional honor over C. P. Head by 
a very small majority. 

From this time on, however, party allegiance 
rather than personal liking of the voter was the 
dominating influence at the polls, and each year 
Arizona's leaning toward the Democratic party be- 
came more pronounced. Marcus A. Smith, who 
had very ably filled the position as district attorney 
of Cochise County, in 1886 decisively defeated the 
former incumbent, C. C. Bean. 

In 1888 Smith ran against Thomas F. Wilson, 
who, like Smith, was a prominent Tucson attorney, 
defeating him by a majority of 1,854 out of a total 
vote of 13,518. 

As all governors in territories were appointed 
to their positions by the President, Arizona's first 
opportunity to have a Democratic executive came 
in 1885, when Cleveland appointed C. Meyer Zulick 
of New Jersey to the gubernatorial chair. It was 
near the close of his administration that the fif- 
teenth Legislature moved the capital from Prescott 
to Phoenix. Scorning the humble stage line which 
went racketing over the mountains on the old 
Black Canyon Road between the two cities, the 
solons journeyed in state by train via Los Angeles. 

The first thing that most of them did upon arriv- 
ing at Phoenix was to purchase shining silk hats, 
which up to that time were as rare in the Territory 
as white blackbirds. 

A short time before this Phoenix had built a 
commodious city hall, and it was used for a num- 
ber of years as a capitol building. 



172 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

When Harrison became President, in 1889, there 
was rejoicing in the Repubhcan ranks over the 
thought that the Territory would soon have a gov- 
ernor of their own party who would distribute offi- 
cial plums to the political deservers, but Zulick, 
feeling that it was incumbent upon him to see that 
the aforesaid plums went to nourish stalwart de- 
mocracy, filled every office that was left to him to 
bestow with his own particular friends. The Re- 
publicans were in the majority in the Legislature 
and the Council refused to confirm Zulick's ap- 
pointees and stayed in session until President 
Harrison had appointed Lewis Wolfley of Yavapai 
County as governor. When Wolfley arrived in 
Phoenix, however, he found that Zulick had as- 
sumed that the Legislature could not legally trans- 
act business after sixty days from the date of its 
organization. The Republicans claimed that the 
intent of the congressional act under which they 
operated applied only to sixty working days. In 
the end the Republicans had rather the best of it, 
as, being in charge of the funds, the Democratic 
office holders were given little but honors. 

In Arizona's next governor, John N. Irwin, the 
Territory once more had an executive from with- 
out the State, and while Mr. Irwin was a gentleman 
of high character, he seemed to have little success 
in gaining the confidence of the local people and 
little liking for the position he occupied. He was 
succeeded by a prominent and able Arizonan, 
N. O. Murphy, who had made a most efficient secre- 
tary of state. 



ARIZONA A POLITICAL ENTITY 173 

When Cleveland became President, in 1893, he 
appointed as governor L. C. Hughes, editor of the 
Tucson Star, who had more trouble with his own 
party, if possible, than with the Republicans. He 
was an advocate of prohibition and woman suf- 
frage, which measures were far less popular in 
Arizona at that time than they are today. 

Hughes' successor, the twelfth governor, was 
B. J. Franklin, a prominent Phoenix attorney. Like 
most of his predecessors, Franklin was a man of 
probity and ability, performing the acts of his 
office ably. Also, like some of his predecessors, 
there was more or less war between himself and 
the Legislature, an account of which need not be 
entered into here. 

Myron H. McCord, the thirteenth governor, was 
an appointee of McKinley. In the spring of 1898 
he rendered active assistance in organizing a regi- 
ment of Rough Riders for the Spanish-American 
War. In July, McKinley gave him a colonel's com- 
mission and placed him in command of an infantry 
regiment, which included three companies 
recruited in the Southwest. 

When Governor McCord led his regiment to 
war his place was filled by N. O. Murphy, who thus 
became Arizona's executive for a second time. He 
in turn was succeeded by Col. Alex O. Brodie, 
a very different type of man from most of Ari- 
zona's officials. A West Point graduate, a lieu- 
tenant in General Crook's Indian campaign, and a 
lieutenant colonel in the Spanish-American War, 
his whole trend of mind was military, and was 



174 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

influenced not at all by political expediency. Dur- 
ing his administration a woman suffrage bill was 
passed by both houses of the Legislature, which he 
vetoed. 

Joseph E. Kibbey, Arizona's sixteenth governor, 
was an appointee of President Roosevelt, and en- 
tered upon his duties with the prestige given him 
by a high reputation attained as a member of Ari- 
zona's Supreme Court. An authority on irrigation 
law, his decision in a famous Salt River Valley case 
has been accepted as a basis for all subsequent 
decisions in Arizona. 

It has been rather the usual thing for Arizona's 
governors and legislatures to be antagonistic, but 
never had conflicts between the executive chamber 
and the halls of the lawmakers been warmer than 
those waged during the Kibbey administration ; the 
governor's positive character and fearless actions 
making him enemies within his own party quite 
as often as in the Democratic ranks. Governor 
Brodie had protested against the extremely low as- 
sessments of mines, and Kibbey vigorously con- 
tinued the agitation. He also strongly opposed the 
rather usual practice of over-stocking legislative 
halls with clerks. The twenty-fifth Legislative 
Assembly was largely Democratic, and bitterly hos- 
tile to the governor. It abolished the Arizona 
Rangers, which organization Kibbey favored, and 
did away with the position of territorial examiner, 
that office being filled by a Kibbey appointee. 

Although as early as 1895 Governor Hughes and 
other "advanced reformers" believed that the time 



ARIZONA A POLITICAL ENTITY 175 

had arrived when Arizona should renounce gam- 
bling as one of its reputable and legal amusements, 
it was not until the beginning of the Kibbey admin- 
istration that the civic conscience of the State was 
sufficiently awakened to abolish the practice. 

In 1905 Tucson prohibited games of chance in 
the vicinity of saloons, and the same year the 
Democratic party in Phoenix declared against 
licensing games anywhere. 

Although the city Democratic ticket was de- 
feated, a year later the Republican convention, as 
part of its platform, agreed, if successful at the 
polls, to submit the question of gambling to the 
people. The Republicans were given the chance 
to carry out their promise, and when the vote was 
taken a majority of the ballots were cast against 
the games of chance. After the city council, in 
compliance with this expression of public opinion, 
abolished the games, the gamblers opened a place 
just east of the city. However, the handwriting 
against them was on the wall, and the twenty- 
fourth Legislature the next spring (1907) abolished 
gambling in the State. 

Many of the pioneers saw disaster in the act. 
A foreman on a large public work complained bit- 
terly to us about it. "It is the ruination of my 
men," he said, "this stopping of the games. Last 
year when you gave a man a check, he'd go to 
Phoenix, blow it all in in twenty-four hours and be 
back on the job not much worse than when he 
went in. Now that he can't lose his money at faro, 
he has to stay and drink it up. It takes him a 



176 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

week, and when he comes back he's a wreck. They 
ought to have cut out the booze, and let the gam- 
bling stay." But in spite of old-time prejudice 
there was practically no criticism from any one 
when first the cities and then the State prohibited 
women and minors from entering a drinking 
saloon. Two years later the twenty-fifth Legisla- 
ture enacted a direct primary law. 

The governor's enemies became so persistent in 
their antagonism of him that Kibbey was finally 
retired in 1909, and Judge Richard E. Sloan, also 
an Arizona jurist of high ability, and a personal 
friend of Kibbey, was appointed in his place. 

From 1886 to 1906 the citizens of Arizona had 
a most persistent and almost irradicable habit of 
sending Marcus Aurelius Smith to Congress. 
Smith was a forceful speaker and a wonderful 
campaigner, and from '86 to '94 was returned to 
Washington with the inevitableness of sunrise. In 
'94, however, he was not even a nominee of his 
party, and N. O. Murphy, Republican, won against 
John C. Herndon, Democrat, and W. O. O'Neill, 
Populist. In 1896, Smith was again elected, and, 
after a vacation of two years following 1898, when 
Col. J. S. Wilson represented the Territory, Marcus 
went back to the old job for two years more. Fol- 
lowing this term, in 1902, Wilson was again dele- 
gate until 1904, when Smith was returned for two 
more terms. In 1908, Ralph H. Cameron, the Re- 
publican nominee, made a most efficient campaign, 
beating Smith by 708 votes. 

As a delegate from the Territory had no vote 



ARIZONA A POLITICAL ENTITY 177 

in Congress, during the early years Arizona's rep- 
resentative could naturally have but little influence 
on National legislation, and all the delegates from 
Arizona during these days made statehood the one 
paramount boon to be obtained for their common- 
wealth. That Arizona should "blaze forth a new 
star in the galaxy of States" was the slogan of 
every congressional campaign at home and the 
Holy Grail of every delegate at Washington. 

In 1892, Smith succeeded in getting a bill, with 
a complete constitution attached, through the 
House, but when it reached the Senate it was killed 
in committee, A second bill managed to reach the 
upper House a year later, but, like its predecessor, 
it was quietly chloroformed. 

Republican Delegate Murphy tried his luck with 
a statehood bill in 1895, but succeeded no better 
than Smith, and when Delegate Wilson, in 1899, 
with Democratic bait on his hook, went fishing for 
the statehood trout, his creel was as empty at the 
end of his term as had been those who had gone 
before him. 

In 1902 a bill passed the House admitting Okla- 
homa, New Mexico and Arizona, but when it 
reached the Senate it was bitterly opposed by a 
faction headed by Senator Beveridge, who later 
that same year made a tour of inspection of the 
Southwest with three other members of the sena- 
torial Committee on Statehood. Wishing to do the 
job thoroughly, the committee spent three entire 
days in the State, and if that time was a little short 
in which to notice Arizona's really excellent 



178 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

schools, its abundant churches, the low rate of illit- 
eracy of its inhabitants, its well-built irrigating 
canals, its green alfalfa fields and rich mines, it 
gave ample time to visit its open gambling halls 
and accept them as a standard of Arizona's citizen- 
ship. An hour spent in looking out of the car win- 
dow at the cactus-covered desert was time enough 
and to spare to prove the State's agricultural im- 
possibilities. When the committee returned to 
Washington it reported that there might be virtue 
enough in Arizona to admit it to statehood if yoked 
to the modicum of virtue to be found in New Mex- 
ico, but there was far too little of civic excellence 
in either commonwealth for either to attempt the 
statehood portals alone. 

In the fall of 1903, William Randolph Hearst 
and Democratic confreres visited Arizona and 
found no sign of moral degeneracy in the fact that 
Arizona would, if given statehood, probably send 
two Democratic senators to Washington. 

In 1904, Representative Hamilton, chairman of 
the Committee on Territories, put a bill through 
the House linking Arizona in statehood with New 
Mexico, performing the act in spite of the vehement 
protests of Arizona's delegate, who pointed out 
that, in case of jointure, Arizona, which was largely 
American, would be wholly dominated by the 
greater number of voters in New Mexico, who were 
largely composed of Spanish-Americans. When 
the bill went to the upper House, Senator Foraker, 
who appreciated the justness of Arizona's desire 
to be a separate commonwealth, succeeded in hav- 



ARIZONA A POLITICAL ENTITY 179 

ing the bill amended so as to permit each Territory 
to vote on the proposed measure. The House, how- 
ever, refused to accept the amendment, and for 
that year the matter was a closed incident. 

Two years later, in January, 1906, the House 
again passed a joint statehood bill wherein Ari- 
zona and New Mexico were to become a State 
under the name, "Arizona." Senator Foraker for 
a second time insisted that the two territories 
should first be allowed to vote on the proposed 
action, and the House this time, as well as the 
Senate, accepted this amendment. 

The ballot on statehood was taken at the regu- 
lar fall election in November, 1906. Arizona cast 
3,141 votes for joint statehood and 16,265 against it. 
C. F. Ainsworth, who ran as a joint statehood can- 
didate for Congress, received 508 votes, with 11,101 
for Smith and 8,909 for Cooper, Republican. In 
New Mexico, joint statehood carried by a vote of 
26,195 for and 14,735 against. 

In October, 1909, while visiting Arizona, Presi- 
dent Taft announced publicly his approval of Ari- 
zona's desire for separate statehood, but warned 
the people of the Territory against a freakish con- 
stitution like that of Oklahoma, especially con- 
demning the initiative, referendum and recall. A 
bill granting separate statehood to Arizona and 
New Mexico passed both the House and Senate in 
June, 1910. 

The election of delegates to the constitutional 
convention was held September 12, 1910, and 
forty-one Democrats and eleven Republicans were 



180 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

chosen for that important body. The delegates 
were: Democrats — Apache County, Fred T. Col- 
ter; Cochise County, E, E. EUinwood, Thomas 
Feeney, G. H. Bolan, A. F. Parsons, R. B. Sims, 
P. F. Connelly, E. A. Tovrea, D. M. Cunningham, 
C. M. Roberts, S. B. Bradner; Gila County, Alfred 
Kinney, George W. P. Hunt, J. J. Keegan, Jacob 
Weinberger; Graham County, Lamar Cobb, Mit 
Simms, A. M. Tuthill, A. R. Lynch, W. T. Webb; 
Maricopa County, A. C. Baker, F. A. Jones, Alfred 
Franklin, Lysander Cassidy, James E. Crutchfield, 
Sidney P. Osborn, Orrin Standage, B. B. Moeur, 
John P. Orme; Mohave County, Henry Lovin; 
Navajo County, William Morgan; Pinal County, 
E. W. Coker, Thomas N. Wills; Yavapai County, 
H. R. Wood, M. Goldwater, M. G. Cunniff , Albert M. 
Jones, A. A. Moore; Yuma County, Mulford Win- 
sor, Fred L. Ingraham, E. L, Short. Republicans — 
Coconino County, C. C. Hutchinson, Edward M. 
Doe; Gila County, John Langdon; Navajo County, 
James Scott; Pima County, Samuel N. Kingan, 
William F. Cooper, Carlos C. Jacome, George 
Pusch, James C. White; Santa Cruz County, Bracey 
Curtis; Yavapai County, Ed W. Wells. 

George W. P. Hunt was elected president of the 
body. It was distinctively a radical organization, 
and in spite of President Taft's warning, not only 
were the initiative, referendum and recall meas- 
ures incorporated in the constitution, but many 
other radical features. The initiative enactment 
provided that 10 per cent of the electors might pro- 
pose a measure, and 15 per cent could propose an 



ARIZONA A POLITICAL ENTITY 181 

amendment to the constitution. But 5 per cent of 
the electors were required to call for the referen- 
dum of a measure passed by the Legislature. The 
governor could not veto initiative or referendum 
measures approved by a majority of the electors. 
Any public officer could be recalled upon the filing 
of a petition whose signers numbered 25 per cent 
of the voters at the last election. A direct primary 
law was re-enacted. An advisory vote as to choice 
of United States senators by the people to the Leg- 
islature was also provided for. A corporation 
commission was created and given large powers, 
and the rights of labor zealously guarded. 

The constitution in its final form was adopted 
by the convention by a vote of 40 to 12, but one 
Republican voting with the majority, and when it 
was submitted to the people, February 9, 1911, it 
was ratified by a vote of 12,187 for and 3,302 
against it. 

When the Flood statehood resolution reached 
President Taft, true to his previous declaration, he 
promptly vetoed it, principally for the reason that 
the constitution provided for the recall of judges. 

In August, a resolution granting separate state- 
hood to Arizona was approved by Taft, with the 
provision that the recall of judges should . be 
stricken out of the constitution by a vote of the 
people of the State. 

An election was called for December 12, 1911, 
at which time congressional and State officers were 
also voted for. Those elected included, for dele- 
gate to Congress, Carl Hayden, sheriff of Maricopa 



182 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

County; for governor, George W. P. Hunt, presi- 
dent of the constitutional convention, and an ad- 
visory vote to the Legislature for United States 
senators gave preferment to Marcus A. Smith, for 
many years delegate to the House of Representa- 
tives, and Henry F. Ashurst, prominent in Arizona 
politics. All were Democrats. 

As there was no other way out of it, in response 
to President Taf t's demand that the recall of judges 
be stricken out of the constitution, the citizens of 
the State voted in compliance with his wishes. 



Chapter XV 

MILITARY AND THE INDIANS 

DURING the early years following the Civil 
War the successive administrations at 
Washington seem to have appreciated, 
in a vague sort of way, that any real development 
of the new Territory of Arizona would be impos- 
sible without military protection from the hostile 
Indians, yet the relief furnished was so inadequate 
that raiding of mines and ranches and the murder 
of travelers continued more or less continuously 
down to 1885, when the worst of the Apache rene- 
gades were taken as prisoners of war out of the 
State. 

According to Bancroft, the number of Indians 
in Arizona in 1863-64, exclusive of the Navajos, 
was about twenty-five thousand. 

In Hinton's Hand Book, published in 1877, the 
following census is given : 

COLORADO INDIANS 

Mojaves and Chemehuevis. . . . 820 

Hualpais 600 

Coahuilas 150 

Cocopahs 180 

1,750 

Moquis (Hopis) 1,700 

Pimas 4,100 

Maricopas 400 

4,500 

Papagos 5,900 

183 



184 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

APACHES 

Pinal and Aravaipa 1,051 

Chiricahua 297 

Mojave 618 

Tonto 629 

Coyotero 1,612 

Southern 1,600 

Yuma 352 

6,159 

Yumas 930 

Mojaves 700 

Navajos 11,868 

13,508 

33,507 

Of these only the following are named as being 
engaged in civilized pursuits: 

All the Hopis, 1,700; Mojaves, 400; Pimas and 
Maricopas, 800; Papagos, 950; and about 700 
Apaches and 3,500 Navajos. 

To protect the settlers against the hostiles, the 
War Department furnished from two to three regi- 
ments of soldiers, distributed in posts in different 
parts of the Territory. These were not in any 
sense defensible forts, but simply barracks where 
soldiers were quartered. In the desert country the 
buildings were usually made of adobe, with pole 
roofs covered with clay. In timbered localities 
like Prescott log houses, in some cases, were 
erected. 

The principal posts used during the period 
from 1865 to 1885 include the following: 

Fort Yuma on the lower Colorado ; Fort Mohave 
on the Colorado, a few miles below Hardyville 



MILITAEY AND THE INDIANS 185 

(this post was maintained specially to look after 
the Mojave and Hualpai Indians, and give protec- 
tion to the ferry across the Colorado at Beat's 
Crossing) ; and Camp Crittenden on the Sonoita, 
which took the place of old Fort Buchanan. Tubac 
was rehabilitated for a short time after the Civil 
War and garrisoned companies of the Arizona vol- 
unteers as well as United States troops. 

Fort Mason at Calabasas, fifteen miles to the 
south, was also maintained as a garrison for a 
short time. 

Camp Huachuca, in Cochise County, is one of 
the newer southern Arizona camps, being built in 
1876. As it is less than fifteen miles from the 
border, its importance has grown steadily, while 
practically all the old Indian posts have long been 
abandoned. 

Fort Lowell was first located at Tucson and 
occupied in 1862. It was abandoned in 1864, reoc- 
cupied in 1865, and in 1873 removed seven miles 
east of the town. 

Camp Bowie, as we have seen, was established 
in Apache Pass after the battle between the sol- 
diers and the Chiricahua and Mimbres Apaches. 
General Miles used it as his headquarters when 
campaigning against the Apaches in 1885. It was 
abandoned in 1896. 

Forts Apache, Thomas and Grant are in approx- 
imately a straight line running north and south, 
fifty or sixty miles from the New Mexican border. 
All were in Apache country, and besides guarding 
the miners and farmers in the upper Gila and Salt 



186 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

countries, they were designed to check bands of 
renegade Apaches raiding en route to and from 
Old Mexico. Fort Apache, the farthest north, is 
about eighty-five miles south of Holbrook on the 
White River. It was established in 1870. Thomas 
was fifty miles south of Apache, on the upper Gila, 
while Grant, at the foot of the Pinaleno Mountains, 
was about thirty-five miles south of Thomas. 

There was also an earlier Camp Grant, of much 
historic interest, which was situated at the con- 
fluence of the San Pedro and the Aravaipa Creek, 
and was originally established as Fort Brecken- 
ridge, as has already been mentioned. 

Camp McDowell was located about thirty miles 
northeast of Phoenix on the Verde River, and was 
established in 1865. It was also an important 
Apache post, being near of access of a number of 
Apache trails running through the mountains to 
the north and east. 

Camp Verde, which was first known as Camp 
Lincoln, is in the upper Verde Valley, forty miles 
or so east of Prescott. It was used in 1863 by the 
California volunteers, afterwards, in '64, by Ari- 
zona volunteers and finally by the regulars. In 
1876 there were quartered at this post six officers, 
one hundred and seventeen men and forty Indian 
scouts. It was also in Apache country. 

Whipple Barracks, whose establishment we 
have already noticed, was one of the most impor- 
tant posts in the Territory in Apache days. Near 
the capital of the State, and being regimental head- 
quarters with a band, it was the center of much 



MILITARY AND THE INDIANS 187 

social life for a number of years. For a while 
General Crook used it as headquarters for the mili- 
tary department of Arizona and southern Cali- 
fornia. 

In 1864, the year of Arizona's birth as a separate 
commonwealth, the military forces of the Territory 
were in command of Gen. James H. Carleton, who 
had acquired prestige not only as the leader of the 
California column when the Confederates had 
been driven eastward, but in successful campaigns 
against New Mexican Indians. However, after his 
arrival in Arizona, although he waged an unremit- 
ting warfare against the Apaches, wherein some 
two hundred members of the tribe were killed, no 
relief of permanent value to the settlers accrued. 

At all times skeptical as to the ability of the 
regular army to protect them, throughout the years 
that followed bands of civilians from time to time 
would organize temporary expeditions on their 
own account against the hostiles. In 1864, such a 
party, led by "Col." King S. Woolsey, attained a 
rather unfavorable notoriety, at least outside of 
the Territorj% as it was claimed that he, upon run- 
ning across a number of Tonto Apaches, invited 
them to a conference and poisoned them by giving 
them pinole mixed with strychnine. For years the 
pinole treaty was a stock story of Apache sym- 
pathizers to illustrate the brutality of Arizona 
settlers. 

This version of the story is denied by one of the 
party, A. H. Peoples, in an account given by Mc- 
Clintock. A band of Apaches had stolen a number 



188 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

of Peoples' horses and mules. Woolsey and Peo- 
ples, with sixteen other settlers, went in pursuit of 
them. They followed the trail south from Peo- 
ples' Valley to the lower Verde, where they re- 
ceived reinforcements in a party of Pima and 
Maricopa warriors. A few days later they came 
upon a large band of Tonto Apaches near the pres- 
ent town of Miami. As the hills appeared to be 
fairly swarming with the savages, it seemed more 
prudent to Woolsey to parley than to fight, and 
an Apache boy, who was a member of Woolsey's 
party, was sent as an ambassador to the enemy. 

The boy, after conversing with the hostiles, 
came back with the information that the Apaches 
were willing to have a peace talk, but advised the 
Americans to be careful, as what the Tontos were 
really planning was to massacre them. Hardly 
had they all been seated on their blankets when an 
Indian made a suspicious movement. It seemed to 
be a case of "he who draws first draws best," and 
the fight was on. Though far outnumbered, the 
Woolsey party had the best of it in arms, and 
made a successful retreat. We read that the 
Apache boy and the Maricopas fought the Tontos 
like fiends, taking twenty-four scalps. The 
Apaches, however, always maintained that they 
came to the peace talk at the invitation of the 
Americans, and, with no thought of treachery, were 
fired upon by their hosts without provocation. 

A year later, Arizona was transferred from the 
military headquarters of New Mexico to California, 
and Gen. John S. Mason was put in command of 



MILITARY AND THE INDIANS 189 

the Arizona forces, which, reinforced by California 
volunteers, was raised to about twenty-eight hun- 
dred men. 

Mason at once established the policy of treating 
all Apaches in the Territory as hostile, and gave 
orders that all Apache men, large enough to bear 
arms, should be slain on sight, unless they gave 
themselves up as prisoners. Women and children, 
too, were to be taken prisoners. Mason acted on 
the theory that an Apache at large was a continual 
menace, and that the only way that the Territory 
could be made a safe place for white people to live 
in was either to exterminate the hostiles or put 
them on a reservation and keep them there. A 
reservation for the Colorado Indians had been 
established in 1865. Mason now organized a sec- 
ond reservation at Camp Goodwin, near the later 
Camp Thomas, which was maintained until the 
end of 1868. 

In 1866 the military forces of Arizona were sub- 
stantially augmented by the organization of five 
companies of Arizona volunteers. Company A, 
thirty-five men, was composed for the most part 
of Mexicans and was commanded, while in the 
field, by Second Lieut. Primitivo Cervantes. Com- 
pany B was recruited entirely from Maricopa In- 
dians. Thomas Ewing was first lieutenant, and 
Charles Reidt second lieutenant. Company C was 
composed of Pimas, and John D. Walker, who 
boasted of eastern Indian blood and who spoke 
Pima, was the captain while the company was in 
service. William A. Hancock, afterwards a Phoe- 



190 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

nix attorney, was second lieutenant. Antonio Azul, 
chief of Pimas, was first sergeant and later seems 
to have been promoted to a lieutenancy. Company 
E was recruited from Mexicans in the vicinity of 
Tubac by Capt. Hiram H. Washburn. His lieuten- 
ant, while in service, was Manuel Gallegos. Com- 
pany F, also composed of Mexicans, was com- 
manded by Oscar Hutton, afterwards a scout in the 
regular army. 

All of these companies actively participated in 
the campaign against the Apaches. Both the Pimas 
and Maricopas, as well as the Mexicans, made good 
soldiers, bearing discomforts and privations with- 
out complaining and fighting with dash and 
bravery whenever the opportunity afforded. At the 
end of a year's campaign Capt. H. H. Washburn 
of Company E reported, "One thing has been 
proven, that native troops are far superior to any 
others for field service in the Territory, and until 
this has been taken as a basis of operation no im- 
mediate good results can occur. Government may 
continue to spend its millions on any other basis 
and the Apache raids will still continue, while 
three hundred native troops, well officered, at an 
expense of less than $800 to the man per year, will, 
in less than two years, rid the Territory of its great- 
est bane and obstacle in the way of progress." 

To the great discredit of the Federal Govern- 
ment it must be recorded that after a year of the 
hardest kind of service, efficiently and bravely ren- 
dered, the men subsisting at times on half rations, 
illy clad, making their own shoes out of deerskin 



MILITAEY AND THE INDIANS 191 

to keep from going barefoot, these gallant soldiers 
never received a cent of pay. 

In this connection it is perhaps not out of place 
to anticipate our narrative and call the attention of 
the reader to the fact that in the final campaign 
waged against the Apaches by Generals Crook and 
Miles, much of what was accomplished was due to 
the sagacity and daring of their native scouts made 
up of Pima and friendly clans of Apaches. 

In May, 1866, General Mason was succeeded by 
Col. H. D. Wallen in the north and Col. Charles S. 
Lovell in the south, and they in turn were replaced 
early in 1867 by Gen. J. I. Gregg and Gen. T. L. Crit- 
tenden, whose combined military force consisted 
of between fifteen hundred and two thousand men. 
In October, 1867, by order of General Halleck, Ari- 
zona was made a separate military district. A year 
later Gen. T. C. Devin was put in command, and 
succeeded in 1869-70 by General Wheaton. 

While it is to be noted tliat the regulars who 
succeeded the volunteers did not seem to make as 
efficient soldiers as did the native troops, they kept 
up a steady campaign against the hostiles. Still 
little progress was made toward making Arizona a 
safe place for white people to live in. All of the 
commanders seem to have been working on the 
theory that the adoption of some kind of a reserva- 
tion plan would come the nearest toward solving 
the problem, yet the steps they made in that direc- 
tion cannot be said to have been notably crowned 
with success. General Devin stopped the rations 
at Camp Goodwin because the Apaches would not 



192 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

surrender murderers nor agree to settle perma- 
nently. Also a temporary reservation at Gamp 
Grant, which fed many Pinal Apaches in 1867-68, 
was abandoned because a satisfactory agreement 
could not be reached with the natives. 

In 1869, Arizona and southern Galifornia were 
combined into a military department with head- 
quarters at Fort Whipple, with the command put 
into the hands of Gen. George Stoneman. General 
Stoneman seems to have followed a policy similar 
to that later worked out more successfully by 
Crook, which was, in brief, to exterminate per- 
sistently depredating Apaches, but encourage those 
who were inclined to pursue the paths of peace by 
furnishing them with rations and blankets. 

The civilians of the State, however, thought that 
he put decidedly more stress upon rewards than 
punishments and that the Apache, murderous at 
heart and cunning by instinct, was making a fool 
of him; that the general's feeding stations were 
simply rendezvouses where the Apaches fattened 
themselves at the nation's expense and from which 
they made their murderous raids. State officials, 
legislators and private citizens were of one accord 
in these complaints, and finally, in the spring of 
1871, a number of the citizens of Tucson took the 
matter into their own hands in a way that brought 
lasting shame to the Territory. 

That spring a band of Apaches had surrendered 
at Camp Grant, and about three hundred were 
allowed to camp near by on Aravaipa Creek, where 
they received rations and did some little work for 



MILITARY AND THE INDIANS 193 

the garrison. While they were there, settlements 
on the San Pedro and Santa Cruz were being 
raided and travelers murdered. It was believed 
by the people of Tucson that it was these Camp 
Grant Indians that were doing the bloody work. 
Finally a ranch belonging to Lester B. Wooster, 
which lay just above Tubac, was raided. Mr. and 
Mrs. Wooster were both killed, and the contents 
of the house and the outbuildings demolished in 
the most wanton manner. This proved one out- 
rage more than the settlers could bear. When the 
news came to Tucson a meeting was quickly called, 
which was attended by Sidney R. DeLong, W. S. 
Oury, Jesus M. Elias and other prominent citizens. 
It seems that protests against outrages had already 
been sent both the agent at Grant and to General 
Stoneman, but no satisfaction had been obtained 
from either. Now at this meeting a terrible plan 
of revenge was agreed upon. The Papago settle- 
ment at San Xavier had also been raided a short 
time before, and those usually peaceable Indians 
were keen for revenge. The result was that a party 
consisting of ninety-two Papagos, forty-eight Mex- 
icans and six Americans, with Elias and Oury as 
leaders, started for the Apache camp on the Ara- 
vaipa. They reached it the second day just as the 
dawn was beginning to break, while the Apaches 
were all still asleep, except a man and a woman on 
a bluff, presumably guards, who were playing 
cards. The attack was a complete surprise, and 
Americans, Mexicans and Papagos slew what 
Apaches they encountered without mercy. Many 



194 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

of the Indians escaped by flight to the hills, but 
others were not so fortunate. Some accounts say 
that eighty-five, others that one hundred and 
thirty-eight were slain. Bancroft says that all but 
eight were women and children. Twenty-eight 
Indian babies were taken prisoners. 

One hundred and eight persons said to be impli- 
cated in the crime were tried for murder at Tucson 
but, as might be expected, no jui-y would convict 
them. The one thing that made their acquittal 
absolutely certain was that the dress of Mrs. 
Wooster and a pair of moccasins belonging to her 
husband were found on the bodies of the slain 
Indians. 

Nevertheless, whatever justification those six 
Americans must have had for avenging themselves 
upon the Apache braves, it is difficult to see how 
the slaying of the women and children could ever 
have been anything but a horrible, haunting 
memory to them. 

In 1871, Gen. George Crook, a soldier of proven 
ability, and a man who combined a high character 
with much common sense, succeeded Stoneman 
in his command. The line between success and 
failure in any field is not necessarily a broad 
one, so while following a policy that did not differ 
greatly from those of his predecessors, yet with 
his keener judgment, with his superior qualities as 
a leader and his ability to command the confidence 
of both Indians and settlers, where those who had 
gone before him had only marked time, Crook 
made a distinct advance toward arriving at a solu- 
tion of Arizona's Indian question. 



MILITARY AND THE INDIANS 195 

Like other commanders, he set out to teach the 
Apaches that it was more to their interests to be 
peaceable than to be warlike, and, differing from 
his predecessors, to a large measure he succeeded. 
He also made the Indians appreciate that when he 
said that Indians as well as white men should work 
for what they ate, that it was within the range of 
possibilities for him to enforce his doctrine. 

One of the first things that the general did was 
to organize a band of Indian scouts. These in- 
cluded not only friendly Pimas but Apaches as 
well. As we have seen. Apaches of different clans 
were not always on good terms with each other; 
indeed, some were at war with each other much 
of the time. In consequence one band was often 
quite willing to aid Crook's soldiers in fighting an- 
other. Then, too, Crook seemed to have been able 
to give his scouts the point of view of peace officers. 
They went after the renegades to force them to 
become good citizens. 

To familiarize himself with his field, as well as 
to educate and harden his troops, soon after his 
arrival he led five troops of cavalry, with scouts 
and camp equipment, on a trip that totaled nearly 
six hundred miles. Their itinerary included much 
of the Apache country, passing through Camps 
Bowie, Apache and Verde. Crook finished his 
journey at Whipple Barracks, which had been 
made departmental headquarters. The amount 
of good this swing around the circuit did can 
scarcely be overestimated. The commander had 
conferences with different groups of Apaches 



196 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

wherever he found them, and his faculty of making 
them understand that he proposed to deal with 
absolute justice with all of them was a continuous 
matter of wonder to his subordinates. 

Although the Apaches had been murdering 
Mexicans since the eighteenth century and Amer- 
icans from the time of their arrival in the South- 
west, the East in general and Washington in 
particular had taken but a languid interest in the 
matter. As a congressman said, after listening to 
a pioneer's tale, "Well, what do you want to go 
into such a God-forsaken country for?" 

However, when such stories as the Pinole 
Treaty and the Camp Grant massacre reached the 
sensitive ears of the easterner, he decided that the 
savagery of the barbarous whites, who were trying 
to exterminate the Apaches, had gone far enough, 
and Washington sent out Vincent Colyer, peace 
commissioner, to settle the matter. 

By authority of President Grant, Colyer was 
given powers which took precedence even over 
those of the military. 

There is no denying that the Indian situation in 
Arizona needed remedying. Unquestionably, 
there had been outrages perpetrated by the whites 
against the Indians as well as Indian outrages 
against the whites, and sweeping powers in the 
hands of the right man, or a proper commission, 
might have resulted in much good; but it soon 
became apparent to all who were familiar with 
the situation and acquainted with Colyer that he 
was anything but the right man. A member of 



MILITARY AND THE INDIANS 197 

the Church of Friends and a man of strong 
prejudices and no tact, his only knowledge of Ari- 
zona Indians had been gained in a brief visit to the 
Hopis in 1869. Now, upon again entering the Ter- 
ritory, he brought with him the preconceived con- 
viction that in all troubles between the races the 
Apache had been the innocent victim and the white 
man the aggressor. 

Ever welcoming any stories that would 
strengthen his position, he listened with avidity 
to such tales as that of the killmg of Mangas Colo- 
rado, the Pinole Treaty or the imprisonment of 
Cochise, but brushed aside as unworthy of consid- 
eration evidence laid before him of literally hun- 
dreds of the outrages of the Apaches upon the 
whites. 

When the citizens of the Territory realized the 
stamp of the man that had been sent out to them 
with such vast authority to settle the Indian ques- 
tion, feeling against him ran so high that Governor 
Saiford was moved to issue orders for his protec- 
tion. Whether there was need of this the reader 
may judge from an editorial in the Prescott 
Courier wherein Colyer is referred to as a "cold- 
blooded scoundrel," and the Arizona citizen was 
advised, "In justice to our murdered dead to dump 
the old devil into the shaft of some mine, and pile 
rocks upon him." 

Still Colyer could do but little more than listen 
to the oratory of the Apache chiefs, and carry out 
the plan that Crook had already undertaken, which 
was to place the Indians on reservations and treat 



198 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

them fairly. So he selected Camp Apache for the 
Coyoteros, Camp Grant for the Aravaipas and 
Finals, McDowell for the Tontos, Camp Verde and 
Date Creek for the Mojave Apaches, and Beal 
Springs for the Hualpais, and returned to the East, 
the execrations of all Arizona following him. 

Colyer's idea was that the country really be- 
longed to the Apaches, and if the whites didn't like 
their ways they could leave, or, staying, the least 
they could do was not to drive the peaceful abori- 
gines into violence by aggravating treatment. The 
flaws in this theory, even assuming the impossible, 
that a bar could be put upon the western march 
of civilization, are that the Apaches themselves 
had not so long before secured their own title to 
the hills by driving out previous inhabitants, and 
that, wanton and cruel as had been the acts of cer- 
tain degenerate whites to the Apaches, other tribes, 
like the Pimas and Maricopas, for example, have 
never been forced to take up murder to protect 
themselves from outrages at the hands of even the 
worst of the palefaces. 

The bias of Colyer's report must soon have been 
realized even at Washington, for within a year of 
the peace commissioner's departure the Apaches 
had made fifty-four raids and killed forty-one citi- 
zens. 

However, General Crook was glad to use the 
reservations Colyer had located, and was backed 
up by Washington in his purpose to enforce strict 
discipline upon the interned Indians, and chas- 
tise the renegades by unremitting warfare. 



MILITARY AND THE INDIANS 199 

A second Indian commissioner visited Arizona 
in April, 1872, in the person of Gen. O, O. Howard, 
a very different kind of a man from his predeces- 
sor. He was not only a soldier of distinction, but 
a man whose deep religious convictions were active 
principles of his life. Also, like Crook, he mixed 
his theories with wisdom and common sense. 

Not contented with listening only to the Indians' 
side of the case, he also gladly embraced the op- 
portunity of consulting the local citizens. One 
important thing accomplished by him was the com- 
pletion of a treaty between the Apaches and their 
ancient foes, the Pimas and Papagos. He also 
moved the Apaches quartered at Camp Grant to 
the upper Gila, where the San Carlos garrison was 
established. 

The children stolen in the Camp Grant mas- 
sacre had been adopted by Mexican families at 
Tucson. At a big conference held at Camp Grant, 
General Howard ordered their return to their 
kinsmen. 

When the general went East he took with him 
seven prominent Indians from the Apache, Pima 
and Papago tribes, and returned with them to Ari- 
zona in the fall with each chieftain the possessor 
of a new, blue suit of clothes, a bronze medal and 
a Bible. Soon after he abolished the reservations 
at Date Creek, McDowell and Beal Springs, allow- 
ing the Indians to change their residences to other 
reservations. 

The most characteristic as well as picturesque 
thing that the general did was to go practically 



200 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

unprotected into the fastnesses of the Dragoon 
Mountains and visit the great Chief Cochise. 

The only white men accompanying General 
Howard were his aide, Capt. J. A. Sladen and Capt. 
Thomas J. Jeffords (Cochise's friend and blood- 
brother). With them went Chief Ponce and a son 
of Mangas Colorado. The meeting was held with 
much oratory and ceremony, with subchiefs and 
the mighty Cochise all in attendance. General 
Howard wanted Cochise to take his people to the 
San Carlos Reservation, but Cochise objecting, it 
was agreed that the reservation should be estab- 
lished in their own country — the southeastern cor- 
ner of the Territory where the Government was 
to provide them rations. 

The plan was carried out, Jeffords was made 
agent, and, in 1872, the Chiricahuas were estab- 
lished therein to the number of one thousand peo- 
ple. In addition to the Chiricahuas a band of 
Janos came up from Old Mexico, and went in with 
Cochise's people, eager for the promised loaves 
and fishes. The chief of this band was Juh. There 
was also a subchief, oratorical, treacherous and 
savage, by the name of Geronimo, who was des- 
tined to prove as great a scourge to the people of 
Arizona as old Cochise himself, but without a 
particle of the big chief's sense of honor. 

Other reservations that had been established 
included Camp Ord, afterwards known as Fort 
Apache, which, in 1870, had its beginning on White 
River. San Carlos to the south, on the upper Gila, 
was established in 1872. The northern agency 



MILITARY AND THE INDIANS 201 

was afterwards discontinued, and the name San 
Carlos usually applied to the entire reservation. 

At Camp Date Creek, in the western part of 
Yavapai County, in 1870, there were two hundred 
and twenty-five Indians, mostly Yavapais. At Camp 
Verde, in 1873, there were two thousand Tonto 
Apaches, and the Yavapais which had been taken 
there from Date Creek, At the Verde, under 
Crook's wise management, the Indians were inter- 
ested in agriculture, and did a large amount of 
work on irrigating ditches. However, just as 
everything was running smoothly, against Crook's 
vigorous protests the Indians were removed to San 
Carlos. On the way some of them escaped, others 
got into a fight with the Yavapais, which resulted 
in five dead Indians. 

Altogether, what with the settlers, the mili- 
tary and the Interior Department, working at cross 
purposes, ideal conditions were far from being 
attained. There was an element among the 
Apaches that had both the desire for the peaceful 
life and wisdom enough to see the futility of trying 
to whip the United States, but there were ever 
turbulent ones whose innate savagery so chafed at 
the restrictions imposed upon them by the dis- 
cipline of the reservations that they were ready to 
grasp any opportunity to escape from their benev- 
olent restrictions and go on expeditions of thievery 
and murder. 

It was encouraging to note, however, that in 
pursuit of these renegades the law-abiding Indians 
showed the sincerity of their professions by giving 



202 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

most valuable service in aiding the soldiers as 
scouts, and often being as zealous in hunting down 
the runaways as any of the whites. As will be 
seen afterwards, there were times when some of 
these scouts proved treacherous, at terrible cost, 
and Crook was severely censured for the con- 
fidence he placed in this savage soldiery, yet it 
would have been impossible to have followed trails 
and to have pierced the heart of apparently inac- 
cessible mountains in pursuit of renegades without 
the guidance of these trailers, and in spite of mis- 
takes made in the choice of them, their service 
justified their use. 

Convincing the turbulent Apache that the pas- 
time of murder was, after all, an unprofitable busi- 
ness, thoroughly occupied General Crook's time. 
Depredations in some part of the Territory were 
going on continuously. Miners were being slain, 
freighters were being ambushed and ranches 
raided with exasperating monotony. On Novem- 
ber 4, 1871, a stage coach containing seven men 
and one woman, a Miss Sheppard, left Wickenburg 
for California. When but nine miles of the jour- 
ney had been covered a band of Yuma Apaches 
from Date Creek surprised them, killing all the 
men but one. Being shielded by the men. Miss 
Sheppard, too, had escaped death, and after the 
first volley she and the surviving man, Cruger, 
though both were wounded, drove back the sav- 
ages with their revolvers, and finally escaped. 

The prominence of one of the murdered men, 
Fred Loring, a young scientist, again attracted the 



MILITARY AND THE INDIANS 203 

attention of the East to Arizona, and put emphasis 
on the theory that there might be bad Apaches in 
the Territory as well as bad whites. 

Encouraged by this successful depredation, the 
Date Creek Indians now plotted the murder of 
General Crook himself, but the "Old Gray Fox," as 
the Indians called the general, being warned, laid 
his plans accordingly. The deed as plotted was to 
take place at the usual "peace talk," which would 
be proposed the first time the chief should visit 
Date Creek, and at a signal, the lighting of a cigar- 
ette, the Apaches were to massacre Crook and 
whatever other white men chanced to be with him. 

Crook, wishing to bring the matter to an issue 
at once, took the opportunity to make an early 
visit, and, accompanied only by Lieutenant Ross, 
sat down with the treacherous chiefs in council. 
However, behind this circle of potential murderers 
casually lounged a dozen or so packers of the mule 
trains, veterans of a hundred frontier battles, and 
every man, with weapons concealed, watched for 
the signal. It came. As the cigarette was lighted, 
a chief snatched a rifle from his blanket and aimed 
it straight at Crook, but before he could fire the 
alert Ross had struck up the barrel. Then occurred 
a grand, Homeric fight, participated in not only 
by the sinev^^ packers, but by whatever soldiers 
there were at the post who came running to the aid 
of their general. So hot was the fight that the In- 
dians fled to the hills. In a short time Crook, with 
a detachment of the Fifth Cavalry, engaged the 
Indians near the head of Santa Maria Creek, and 
decisively defeated them. 



204 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Another picturesque battle fought by Crook's 
men was what is usually known as "The Battle of 
the Cave," and was an incident of a general cam- 
paign covering middle Arizona east of McDowell 
and centering at the Tonto Basin. 

Nataje, an Apache scout, advised Major 
Brown, the leader of a detachment, that he could 
undoubtedly find hostile Apaches in a cave he 
knew about near Salt River, at the end of the 
southern slope of the Mazatzals. The major sent 
Nataje with Lieutenant Ross and twelve men as 
an advance party. Approaching their destination 
just before daylight, they discovered a band of 
braves singing and dancing about fires in front of 
the cave. Following the orders of the campaign, 
the soldiers fired. Six of the Apaches fell, the rest 
fled into the cave, which, though of no great depth, 
was protected by a parapet of boulders. Soon 
Capt. John G. Bourke arrived with forty more men, 
and was later followed by Major Brown with the 
rest of the command, including Pima scouts. It 
was soon discovered that there were women and 
children in the cave, but the commander's assur- 
ance that they would receive kind treatment if 
they came out, was answered with jeers of de- 
fiance. 

After a time it was also noticed that rifle bullets 
shot by the soldiers against the slanting roof of the 
cave would riccochet among the Indians, and vol- 
ley after volley was thus fired. Cries from within 
the cave soon made it apparent that the shots were 
killing women and children as well as men. A 



MILITARY AND THE INDIANS 205 

second demand for surrender was made, and, in 
response, came a weird and eyrie death chant ris- 
ing defiantly from the throats of the beleagured 
Apaches. 

The battle continued for hours; the Apaches 
had determined to die, but before dying, to kill 
every soldier possible. Some time after daylight 
a detachment of Company G suddenly appeared 
on the crest of the cliff above the cave. Imme- 
diately these men began to drop huge boulders, 
which, striking the parapet and bounding inward, 
wrought fearful havoc. It was the end! Just be- 
fore noon the soldiers entered the cave where a 
fearful sight met their eyes. All the warriors lay 
dead but one, and he was dying. But eighteen of 
the women and children were left alive, and these 
had saved themselves by hiding under stones. 

Carlos Montezuma, college-educated and a 
practicing physician in Chicago, who has a na- 
tional reputation as a worker for the betterment 
of his race, was one of these Apache babies. 

General Crook kept up his systematic policy of 
proving to the renegades that the way of the trans- 
gressor is hard until, by 1874, the Apaches had 
pretty much agreed to be good, and the greater 
part of the tribe was on the reserv^ation. Crook's 
good work was appreciated by the people of Ari- 
zona, and a vote of thanks was given to him by 
the Territorial Legislature. It was now hoped 
that to a great extent the Indian question was 
settled. Most unfortunately, however, in March, 
1875, Crook was sent north to fight the Sioux and 



206 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

was succeeded in Arizona by Gen. August V. 
Kautz. 

Whether or not the new commander was less 
eflicient in military lines than his predecessor, he 
was undoubtedly less tactful in his dealings with 
the citizens of the Territory, and soon we find 
press and people again uniting in bitter criticism 
of the military. Indeed, open charges of ineffi- 
ciency were made against Kautz which finally led 
to his removal. 

In carrying out the now adopted policy of plac- 
ing all the Arizona Apaches on one reservation, the 
Chiricahuas were transferred to San Carlos in 
1876 and the Hot Springs bands in 1877, when the 
number of Indians in the White Mountain Agency, 
which included Fort Apache as well as San Carlos, 
numbered over forty-five hundred. Both the Chiri- 
cahuas and the Hot Springs Indians bitterly re- 
sented being removed from their old homes, and 
while the former band was being transferred quite 
a detachment of them escaped, starting in at once 
on an orgy of depredations, and by September 
they had killed twenty persons. As the Hot Springs 
band was being taken across the country, Victorio 
and some of his associating villains got away into 
Mexico. 

While from now on there was comparative 
peace in the northern and western part of Arizona, 
that part of the Territory extending from the 
White Mountain Reservation south into Mexico 
and east into New Mexico was the scene of fre- 
quent outrages which Gen. 0. B. Wilcox, who sue- 



MILITARY AND THE INDIANS 207 

ceeded General Kautz, seemed unable to stop. 
One reason for this perhaps was that the Apaches 
were now all armed with repeating rifles, and ap- 
parently had no trouble in getting ammunition 
enough to make them exceedingly dangerous. Vic- 
torio came up from his Mexican raids, killed 
seventy-three whites north of the line and escaped 
again into Mexico, but General Terrazzas was wait- 
ing for him down in Chihuahua with a small army. 
They decisively defeated his braves and, in 1880, 
slew Victorio himself, upon whose head the Mexi- 
cans had placed a bounty of -$1,000. That same 
year Juh and Geronimo, with one hundred and ten 
of their followers, who now seemed to be consid- 
ered Chiricahuas, were rounded up to make unde- 
sirable citizens of San Carlos. 

Towards the end of 1880 a Coyotero medicine 
man on Cibicu Creek was stirring up trouble with 
promises to raise their old war-chief, Diable, under 
whose leadership the Apaches would sweep the 
white men from the Territory. This started a com- 
plicated series of troubles in which the medicine 
man as well as several soldiers were killed. One 
most serious feature of the trouble was that a 
number of Apache scouts turned traitor and 
opened fire upon unsuspecting soldiers, when one 
officer and four privates were killed. Later the 
hostiles attacked Fort Apache itself. New troops 
were hurried to San Carlos and five chiefs impli- 
cated in the outbreak had surrendered to Indian 
Agent J. C. Tiffany, when, unexpectedly, a band of 
renegades headed by Juh and Geronimo escaped 



208 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

from the reservation, followed by Loco and his 
Hot Springs band, and another carnival of crime 
and horror ensued. 

It was then (July, 1882) that General Crook was 
sent for to relieve General Wilcox, in the hope, 
doubtless, that the personality of the "Old Gray 
Fox" would give confidence to the settlers and 
have a subduing effect upon the Apaches. 

The returning commander found affairs in a 
bad state. The Interior Department seems to have 
chosen as Indian agents friends of politicians 
rather than men of probity and ability. The record 
of Agent Tiffany at San Carlos, who was supposed 
to have been a minister of the gospel at one time, 
seems to have been especially bad. The Federal 
grand jury at Tucson in 1882 reported: "We feel 
it our duty as honest American citizens to express 
our utter abhorrence of the conduct of Agent Tif- 
fany and that class of reverend speculators who 
have cursed Arizona as Indian officials and who 
have caused more misery and loss of life than all 
other causes combined. . . . Fraud, peculation, 
conspiracy, larceny, plot and counter plot seem to 
be the rule of action upon this reservation. With 
the immense power wielded by the Indian agent 
almost any crime is possible. . . . Rations can 
be issued ad libitum for which the Government 
must pay, while the proceeds pass into the capa- 
cious pockets of the agent." 

General Crook had a conference with the In- 
dians at San Carlos and told the chiefs that he was 
going to place the responsibility directly upon 



MILITARY AND THE INDIANS 209 

them, and that they must not only keep the peace 
at the agency, but themselves punish offenders. He 
then established his old disciplinary rules of metal 
tags and frequent roll calls. 

The reservation was to be policed, as of old, 
with native guards. 

A better feeling was apparent at once, and a 
number of the Apaches were allowed to leave the 
river agency and go into the northern part of the 
reservation where soon about fifteen hundred of 
them were self-sustaining. 

But still the Indian question was not settled. 
In March, 1883, Chatto, one of the most infamous 
murderers who ever went unhung, came up from 
Mexico, and killed among others Judge and Mrs. 
McComas, prominent Arizona people, taking their 
little boy, Charley, into captivity, and later killing 
him. 

It was now evident that to secure peace on 
either side of the border the Apaches must be 
rounded up in Mexico as well as in Arizona, and 
after a conference with the governor of Sonora, 
Crook sent a well-organized expedition under 
guidance of an Apache called Peaches (who 
claimed to be an enemy of Chatto) to the Apache 
stronghold in the Sierra Madre Mountains. Al- 
though the expedition did not accomplish all that 
was hoped for. Crook succeeded in penetrating to 
the heart of the Apache rendezvous, waged a suc- 
cessful battle at a half-deserted rancheria, and, 
after a conference, induced about four hundred 
of the Apache outlaws, including Geronimo, 



210 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Chatto, Nachis and Loco, to return with him. In 
order to persuade them to do this, however. Crook 
was obliged to concede that past ofifenses should be 
forgotten, that they were to march much as they 
pleased and keep their arms and whatever horses, 
mules and cattle they had, all of which, it may be 
mentioned, had been stolen from the Mexicans. 
On the way Nachis, Chatto and Geronimo disap- 
peared, leaving the soldiers to escort the squaws 
and the stolen property safely back to the reserva- 
tion. However, Chatto came back the following 
February, and Geronimo, under charge of Lieu- 
tenant Davis, came in March. 

One reason why these brave bucks were willing 
to return to their rations at San Carlos may have 
been that the Mexican Government had fixed a 
market price of $250 each for male Apache scalps. 
At the White Mountain Reservation history re- 
peated itself with monotonous inevitableness, and 
in May, 1885, the old, murderous band led by 
Geronimo, Chihuahua and Nachis again went on 
the warpath and soon had twenty-one more victims 
added to their infamous list. The southeastern 
part of Arizona was now completely terrorized. 
Home guards were organized at Tucson, Clifton, 
Bisbee and Tombstone, but their efforts were not 
effective. Grant County, New Mexico, offered $250 
for every renegade Apache killed, and an Arizona 
board of supervisors offered $500 for Geronimo, 
dead or alive. It must now have been apparent 
to Crook himself that his policy of trying to con- 
ciliate such savage criminals as Geronimo was 



MILITARY AND THE INDIANS 211 

destined to be wholly fruitless. By inheritance 
and ingrained habit their fingers perpetually itched 
for murder, and as long as they had the oppor- 
tunity they would not change their ways. In 
December, 1885, General Crook organized his last 
campaign into Mexico. His force included a de- 
tachment of Apache scouts, under Gapt. Emmett 
Grawford, who was destined to be killed by treach- 
erous Mexican soldiers. The renegades were driven 
into southeastern Sonora, and when the pursuit 
grew too hot the hostiles calmly ask^d for the usual 
peace talk. 

It was arranged that they were to have a confer- 
ence with General Grook at Funnel Ganyon, 
Sonora, twenty-five miles below the line. The big 
talk took place as arranged. With Grook and his 
guard of friendly Apache scouts were Gaptains 
Bourke and Roberts, Lieutenants Faison, Maus 
and Shipp, with a few citizens and interpreters. 
Among the Indians were Nachis, Geronimo and 
Ghihuahua. 

Grook had been instructed by President Gleve- 
land himself, through General Sheridan, to con- 
sent to nothing but the unconditional surrender of 
the Indians, and to take every precaution against 
the escape of the hostiles. It is possible that Grook 
might have succeeded in his undertaking had not a 
man by the name of Tribolet brought fifteen gal- 
lons of whisky into the camp of the Indians, which 
he sold to them for ^100. Geronimo, Nachis and 
other chiefs immediately got drunk. That night 
Geronimo disappeared, and although eighty 



212 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Apaches returned with Lieutenant Faison to Fort 
Bowie, the conference was a failure. Heart- 
broken at the outcome of the affair, which had in- 
volved much hostile criticism on the part of his 
military superiors, as well as from the people of 
Arizona, General Crook tendered his resignation 
as commander, which was promptly accepted. 

It was now definitely decided that all of the 
renegade Apaches must be deported from the Ter- 
ritory. On April 10, 1886, Chihuahua's band of fif- 
teen men, thirty-three women and twenty-nine 
children were started for Fort Marion, Florida. 

Immediately upon his arrival, April 11, 1886, 
Gen. Nelson A. Miles, Crook's successor, started in 
on a vigorous campaign against Nachis, Geronimo 
and their followers. Appreciating doubtless that 
former failures had come about through insufTi- 
cient troops, the War Department furnished Gen- 
eral Miles with six thousand soldiers, which he 
distributed at strategic points throughout the 
southeastern part of the Territory. In the mean- 
time Nachis and Geronimo, with bravado and im- 
pudence, secured a following of all the renegades, 
and were raiding across southern Arizona and 
northern Mexico, from the Santa Cruz eastward, 
leaving a bloody trail behind them. In pursuing 
the renegades no troops ever saw more active 
service or followed more closely a trail than did 
the command of Capt. H. W. Lawton, which con- 
sisted of thirty-five men of Troop B, Fourth Cav- 
alry; twenty men. Company A, Eighth Infantry; 
twenty friendly Apache scouts and two pack trains. 



MILITARY AND THE INDIANS 213 

Also accompanying Captain Lawton were Lieuten- 
ants Johnson, Finley and Benson. Their surgeon 
was none other than Leonard Wood, now major 
general in the regular army. 

A hot trail of Geronimo's band was picked up 
on the Penito Mountains, Sonora, and thereafter 
the soldiers hung on to the trail of the fleeing out- 
laws like wolf hounds after a pack of wolves. Over 
deserts, where the heat rose to 120 in the shade, 
went the renegades, up rock gulches, over moun- 
tain tops, dodging through this canyon and that, 
resorting to every Apache trick to throw their pur- 
suers off the trail. But with the Indian scouts lead- 
ing, the little column of soldiers, ever loyal, ready 
to cover seventy miles a day if need be, kept dog- 
gedly to the chase, covering over three thousand 
miles during the brief campaign. Finally, on July 
20th, all but spent, the Apaches were driven into 
a pocket near the old presidio town of Fronteras, 
Sonora. One account says that, realizing that cap- 
ture must come sooner or later, and believing that 
surrender at worst would mean nothing more dis- 
astrous than a resumption of high living and plain 
thinking at San Carlos, Geronimo, in a roundabout 
way, let word come back to General Miles at Bowie 
that he was ready to return to the fold. In any 
event, Lieut. G. B. Gatewood of the Sixth Cavalry, 
with two friendly Chiricahuas, was sent from head- 
quarters to Sonora to communicate with Geronimo, 
and, on August 25th, taking his life in his hands, 
Gatewood entered the camp of the hostiles and 
talked with Geronimo, whom he well knew. How- 



214 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

ever, the old villain declined to surrender uncon- 
ditionally and wanted further negotiations with 
General Miles. The day following he wandered 
unconcernedly into Lawton's camp to talk with 
that officer concerning the preservation of his ras- 
cally skin. The first thing that Lawton advised him 
to do was to bring his followers down from the 
mountains and camp near by. The old chief com- 
plied. There were Mexican troops in the vicinity, 
only too anxious to hang Geronimo and the rest of 
the chiefs, and Lawton had no trouble in getting 
the consent of the Indians to start north with him. 
Before going to Bowie, however, where General 
Miles was still waiting, Geronimo wanted General 
Miles to meet him at some intermediate station 
where they could hold one of the old-time, friendly 
little conferences. However, the style in confer- 
ences had undergone a radical change, and when 
the message reached General Miles, he sent back 
word that he would not see the Indians at all un- 
less they agreed to surrender and in the meantime 
give some evidence of good faith. As Lawton prac- 
tically had the renegades surrounded with his cav- 
alry, there was little else for the Indians to do but 
to agree, and Geronimo's brother was sent to Bowie 
as a pledge of their sincerity. On the march north, 
owing to Lawton's vigilance, there was none of the 
usual, casual dropping out of Indians en route. 

General Miles met the expedition at Skeleton 
Canyon, in the San Simon Valley, where, on Sep- 
tember 3, 1886, the hostile Indians, including 
Nachis and Geronimo, surrendered, and the lead- 



MILITARY AND THE INDIANS 215 

ers were hurried to Bowie. Within a week the 
band, under close guard, was aboard a train en 
route for San Antonio, from which place they were 
afterwards sent to Fort Pickens, Florida. The 
"Indian Question," as such, was settled. 

In 1901 we saw Geronimo at the Pan-American 
Exposition, where he was being exhibited by a sen- 
timental Government as a type of the noble red- 
man. Around the old scoundrel was a crowd of 
sympathetic females, who were eagerly buying his 
autograph at ten cents a piece. With the writer 
was a pioneer Arizonan who knew personally 
more than one of Geronimo's victims, and what 
that pioneer said concerning the scene we were wit- 
nessing, while illuminating and picturesque, is 
scarcely printable. 

NAVAJOS 

At the close of the Mexican War, the Navajo 
Indians, who numbered about ten thousand, com- 
prised by far the largest tribe in the Southwest. 
These notable Indians occupied the plateau coun- 
try in the northeastern part of Arizona and the 
northwestern part of New Mexico. While the orig- 
inal stock was Athapaccan, various other tribes 
were undoubtedly grafted into it, including, at one 
extreme, the half-civilized Pueblans, and at the 
other the warlike Apaches. As a result there was 
produced a people versatile and adaptable, skillful 
in crafts, and cunning and aggressive in war. They 
had no chiefs in the usual sense of the word, and 



216 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

whatever influence the head men had upon the 
rank and file of the tribe seemed to be derived 
solely from their personality. 

Almost from the time of the arrival of the 
Spaniards into New Mexico there was hostility be- 
tween them and the Navajos, but in their warfare 
the Navajos seemed to take no pleasure in the 
murderous brutality that was so characteristic of 
the Apaches. Soon learning the value of flocks 
and herds, the principal object of the Navajo raids 
would be to steal sheep and horses. On their part, 
when the Spaniards made warfare against the 
Navajos, they would make slaves of their captives, 
when in retaliation the Navajos would often en- 
slave the Mexicans. Indeed, it was a common cus- 
tom of all of the tribes of the Southwest, and 
especially of the Navajos, in their warfare with 
other tribes to make wives of captured women and 
slaves of tractable captured young men. 

The original flocks and herds stolen from the 
Spanish colonists, under the care of the Navajos, 
who took with surprising aptitude to the vocation 
of herdsmen, multiplied until at the time of which 
we write, they number about two hundred thou- 
sand sheep, ten thousand horses and not a few 
cattle. Also, like practically all of the Arizona 
Indians, they practice agriculture, raising as much 
as sixty thousand bushels of corn a year. 

They undoubtedly learned the art of weaving 
from the Hopis, who manufactured cotton blankets 
and garments from the earliest times. With their 
originality and marked aptitude for craftsmanship, 



MILITARY AND THE INDIANS 217 

the Navajos soon became very skillful weavers 
and marked their blankets with an individuality 
that is very notable. It may not be without inter- 
est to mention that with the Hopi it is usually the 
man who does the weaving. In the case of the 
Navajo it is the woman. 

Pueblan influence is seen also in what little pot- 
tery the Navajos make, as well as in their woven 
plaques. In nothing is the adaptability and nat- 
ural skillfulness of hand of the Navajos shown 
more clearly than in the excellent work of their 
silversmiths, who are especially fond of taking 
Mexican silver coins and fashioning them into but- 
tons or ornaments for their person or saddles or 
bridles. 

The theory that with primitive people the 
woman was always held as distinctly inferior to 
the man is disproved by the Navajos. Consulta- 
tion between husband and wife is a necessary pre- 
lude before a sheep may be sold, divorce is by 
mutual consent, and incompatibility of tempera- 
ment is wholly adequate grounds for such a sepa- 
ration. It is said that if the lady tires of her 
spouse, she sets his saddle and bridle outside the 
door of their hogan, which is a gentle hint for 
him to take himself off. The hint is seldom dis- 
regarded. 

Should a wife prove unfaithful, it isn't etiquette 
for him to cut off the end of her nose, as is the 
cruder Apache custom; instead, if he wants to 
"save his face," his proper recourse is to prove 
himself a man by going off and slaying a member 
of some other tribe. 



218 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

One cause for trouble between the Americans 
and the Navajos had been that the tribe had no 
definite civic organization. Until late years every 
man was a law to himself, and answerable to no 
one. Promises made in behalf of the tribe by the 
chiefs or head men were nonchalantly annulled 
by their constituents at will, and while those who 
had acquired property naturally wished the sta- 
bility of government that goes with peace, the 
sheepless and the lawless were ever ready to go 
raiding. 

The treaty, as recorded, that was made between 
the Navajos and Colonel Doniphan, in 1846, was 
soon broken, as was the one with Col. J. M. Wash- 
ington, military governor of New Mexico, in 1849, 
and another made by Governor Calhoun and 
Colonel Sumner soon afterwards. It was in the 
spring of 1852 that Colonel Sumner built Fort 
Defiance, which derived its name from the fact 
that it was built in defiance of the mandate issued 
by the Indians that it should not be built. 

A characteristic bit of trouble was had at 
Defiance, in 1854, when a Navajo killed one of 
the soldiers; Major Kendrick immediately de- 
manded that the murderer be produced. The 
Indians agreed with surprising alacrity, going so 
far in their zeal as to insist upon not only appre- 
hending the culprit, but in hanging him them- 
selves, which they did with all military ceremony, 
the entire garrison being assembled to see the act 
performed. But when dealing with the Navajo, 
things are not always what they seem. Two years 



MILITARY AND THE INDIANS 219 

later it was discovered that the man executed was 
not the guilty Navajo at all, but a Mexican captive. 
The murderer was still living, a distinguished and 
honored member of the tribe. 

Another treaty was made with the Indians by 
Governor Merriwether in 1855, but the Navajos 
were firm believers in the doctrine that treaties 
were mere scraps of paper, so the plundering went 
on just the same. In July, 1858, there occurred 
another Navajo murder, full of typical local color. 
A prominent man of the tribe wanted his wife to 
visit his relations with him, but she, frivolous lady, 
insisted upon going to a dance instead. Really 
annoyed by the action, for the moment forgetting 
the courtesy a true gentleman should show to even 
his wife under the most trying of circumstances, 
the husband not only followed her but, in an 
impetuous moment, laid hands on her, decidedly 
disarranging her wardrobe, whereupon the lady 
tartly announced the termination of their conjugal 
relations. 

There was just one thing left for the flouted 
husband to do, he must find some one to slay. On 
the day following, he wandered up to Fort Defiance 
and, noticing Jim, the negro boy who belonged to 
Major Brooks, not at all from any ill feelings 
toward the youth, but simply as a matter of high 
principle, shot an arrow through him and fled. 
The boy died and the military authorities promptly 
demanded the murderer, but he was not produced. 
As a result, there was soon warfare between the 
soldiers and the Indians. Chief Sandoval, who had 



220 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

always been friendly to the Americans, said that 
although all of the others might fail he would catch 
the murderer, and to prove his zeal sent out every 
scout he could command. 

Every day the trail grew hotter. The villain 
had been seen at Ojo del Oso, later heard of at a 
cave near Laguna Negrita. Finally he was caught, 
but so desperate was his resistance that his captor 
had been forced to kill the man. The next day 
the corpse was brought in, but alas, though Chief 
Sandoval swore he was the Navajo murderer, and 
Chief Sarcillo Largo swore he was the Navajo 
murderer, the officers of the garrison recognized 
him as a Mexican prisoner of the Navajos whom 
they well knew, and a second vicarious sacrifice 
had been committed at Defiance. 

In a number of skirmishes that ultimately grew 
out of this affair fifty Indians and seven or eight 
soldiers were killed and an officer was seriously 
wounded. The soldiers had killed much of the 
Navajo live stock, and, as it occurred to the Indians 
that paper was cheaper than mutton, the chiefs 
decided to make another treaty. So on Christmas 
Day, 1858, all was forgiven, if not forgotten, in a 
brand new covenant wherein Colonel Bonneville 
acted for the Government. Its terms required the 
return of all prisoners on both sides, Pueblans, 
Mexicans and Navajos, which had been taken dur- 
ing the several campaigns. Also, it was stipulated 
that the Navajos should indemnify the Pueblo 
Indians for all depredations since August, 1858. 
A boundary line was fixed beyond which the 



MILITARY AND THE INDIANS 221 

Navajos were not to go. The producing of the 
slayer of Jim, the negro, which all the trouble was 
about, was waived. As the Navajos said, the 
gentleman had left the country. The treaty was 
quite elaborate and executed with due solemnity, 
but nevertheless Navajo depredations did continue 
just the same as they had before. In 1860 the 
Navajos actually attacked Fort Defiance itself, 
when they were repulsed without any great losses 
on either side. The report of this seems to have 
been noted even at Washington, and in the winter 
of 1860-61 Colonel Canby, with regular troops, 
aided by a large force of volunteers, including 
many Pueblons and Ute Indians, marched to 
Navajo territory. The principal result of the cam- 
paign was losses in Navajo live stock, which hit 
the tribe in a tender spot, and led them to again 
sue for peace. In February, 1861, an armistice of 
three months, which afterwards was extended to 
a year, was agreed upon. Then came on the Civil 
War, and with the withdrawing of the troops from 
Arizona the Navajo resumed his raiding with even 
more hilarity and abandon, if possible, than before. 

PIMA HISTORIANS 

In our story of Arizona we have been able only 
occasionally to give our readers glimpses of the 
Pima and Papago Indians. We have told you how 
friendly they have always been to the whites. We 
wish we had room to tell you more of their battles 
with the war-like Apaches and Yumas, when, more 



222 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

than once, they signally defeated them. We must 
take space, though, to mention one thing about the 
Pimas. They had their own historian who kept 
the tribal chronicle, not on the written page or even 
by hieroglyphics etched on rocks, but by marks 
and notches on cane-like sticks. The historian, 
like old Owl Ears, of the Salt River Reservation, 
would take the stick in his hand, run his fingers 
along the notches and, with a far-away look in his 
eyes, begin: "Long time ago, one winter, many 
stars fall down in the sky; have big rabbit drive at 
Sacaton. Next summer two Apaches steal one 
Pima woman at Blackwater. She kill Apache man 
with rock, and come back pretty soon. Next fall 
lots of mesquite beans on desert. Next winter at 
Suhuaro fruit harvest have big drunk at Gila 
Crossing. Juan Bignose fall off his kee (house) 
and break leg." In news interest, at least, not 
wholly unlike the items we used to read in the 
Windy Corners Weekly Bulletin back on the farm. 




WORKING OFF EXCESS ENEPvGY 

l'hot<jgnipli Fm-nislicl by K. L. Graves 



Chapter XVI 
SALOONS AND "BAD MEN" 

IT has been said that most Arizona towns began 
with the opening of a saloon to supply the 
necessities of life, later a grocery store would 
be started to furnish the luxuries. Possibly the 
idea that this statement intended to convey was 
that in pioneer Arizona the saloon was not only 
the poor man's club, but almost every man's club, 
and when the rear section of it was occupied by 
the usual Chinese restaurant, it came perilously 
near being many men's home as well. We, natu- 
rally, are not commending the custom, we simply 
record the historic fact. 

Within the saloon were gaming tables. It is 
not strange that so many of Arizona's early cit- 
izens were gamblers in one form or another. An 
old pioneer friend of ours says they couldn't help 
being — that every time a miner visited his shaft, 
every time a cowboy went out after a "bunch" 
of cattle, every time a traveler started on a journey, 
he gambled his pay check or hope of profit against 
his life. 

In the earlier days, poker and monte were the 
favorite saloon games, but later, in such places as 
Brown's "Congress Hall" in Tucson, or Gus Hirsh- 
feldt's "Palace" at Phoenix, the opportunities to 

223 



224 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

contribute to that fickle jade, Miss Fortune, would 
include one or more faro layouts, a roulette table, 
a crap game, a kino corner and perhaps a Chinese 
lottery. In these saloons, whose doors had no keys 
and whose nights were the principal parts of the 
days, there was always music and a lady in a gown 
of carmine or sunset-pink would place vocal gym- 
nastics in competition with what was usually a 
very good orchestra composed of Mexicans, who 
played entirely by ear. 

The most popular game at the "Palace" was 
faro, where the seats about the table would always 
be full, with more men standing behind. One queer 
rule of etiquette was that while social proprieties 
would not admit a negro playing with the whites 
at faro, a Chinaman would be admitted upon per- 
fect equality. There the long-queued celestial 
would sit by the hour, and, whether winning or 
losing, his face would have all the facile mobility 
of expression of a granite tombstone. The colored 
customers would play craps and the mixed, unopu- 
lent clientele of the house, black-and-tan and white 
who wished to indulge their gambling proclivities 
with small risk concerned themselves at kino. 
Roulette seemed to hold special attraction for the 
tenderfoot who had money to burn and didn't mind 
the smell of smoke. In consequence more than 
one gentleman from east of the Mississippi was 
reduced from opulence to penury in a single eve- 
ning, due to the unfortunate dropping of a small 
ball on the wrong color and numl3er of a wheel. 
Occasionally, of course, a player would make a 



SALOONS AND "BAD MEN" 225 

big winning which would be widely heralded, and 
which would result in increased playing at all of 
the tables. 

There were many reasons why the owners of 
the tables found their calling a lucrative one. The 
two basic reasons are these: first, all games have 
a certain percentage in favor of the dealers; 
second, ninety-nine men out of a hundred, sooner 
or later, come back to the game if they win, and 
every man has to stop playing when he is broke. 
Indeed, the average laborer when he came to town 
did not expect to win with any consistency. His 
business in town was to "blow in" his pay check 
or his gold dust, and he expected to go back penni- 
less to the hills, or his job, when his fling was over. 
So it happened, in every town of any size, the 
workers supported a group of affable, well man- 
nered, cool-eyed, cool-fingered, law-abiding gentle- 
men, who dressed well and were good spenders — 
at the expense of others. In the big places the 
dealers worked in shifts of four hours at a time, 
the twenty-four hours through. 

As told by Captain Bourke : "Isn't it rather late 
for you to be open?" asked the tenderfoot arrival 
from the East as (at Tucson) he descended from 
the El Paso stage about four o'clock in the morning 
and dragged himself to the bar to get something 
to wash the dust out of his throat. 

"Wa-a-al, it is kinder late fur th' night afore 
last," genially replied the bartender, "hut's jest'n 
the shank o' th' evenin' fur t'night." 

From the saloon to the professional "bad" man 



226 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

of the country is an easy transition, as the saloon 
was the parade ground where the bad man strutted. 
Sometimes, however, he would be spurious, and 
his bluff was soon called. Again we quote Bourke, 
who lived in Tucson in the early '70s: 

"A wild-eyed youth, thoroughly saturated with 
'sheep-herders' delight' and other choice vintages 
of the country, made his appearance in the bar of 
'Congress Hall' and announcing himself as 'Slap- 
Jack Billy, the Pride of the Panhandle,' went on 
to inform a doubting world that he could whip his 
weight in 'b'ar-meat'. . . . 
" 'Fur ber-lud's mee color, 
I kerries mee corfin on mee back, 
'N th' hummin' o' postol-balls, bee jingo, 
Is me-e-e-u-u-sic in mee ears.' 
"Thump! sounded the brawny fist of 'Shorty' 
Henderson, and down went Ajax, struck by the 
offended lightning. When he came to, the 'Pride 
of the Panhandle' had something of a job in 
rubbing down the lump about as big as a goose- 
egg which had suddenly and spontaneously grown 
under his left jaw; but he bore no malice and so 
expressed himself. 

" 'Podners,' he smiled, 'this 'ere's the most 
sociablist crowd I ever struck; let's all hev a 
drink.' " 

Another story Bourke tells is of ex-Marshal 
Duflield of Tucson who was credited with having 
slain thirteen undesirable citizens. This may have 
been true, for Duffield was brave enough to wear 
a "plug" hat in Tucson in the early '70s, and to a 



SALOONS AND "BAD MEN" 227 

man who had nerve enough to do that, encounters 
with a baker's dozen of gunmen would be mere 
pistol practice. 

One day a certain "Waco Bill" arrived on a 
wagon train from Los Angeles, and being three- 
fourths full of a fluid Captain Bourke denotes as 
coffin varnish, he desired to meet and overcome 
the celebrated guardian of the peace. 

" 'Whar's Duffer?' he hiccoughed, as he ap- 
proached the little group of which Duffield was the 
central figure, 'I want Duffer ; (hie) he's my meat. 
Whoop!' 

"The words had hardly left his mouth before 
something shot out from Duffield's right shoulder. 
It was that awful fist, which could upon emergency 
have felled an ox, and down went our Texan 
sprawling upon the ground. No sooner had he 
touched Mother Earth than, true to his Texan in- 
stincts, his hand sought his revolver, and partly 
drew it out of the holster. Duffield retained his 
preternatural calmness, and did not raise his voice 
above a whisper the whole time that his drunken 
opponent was hurling all kinds of anathemas at 
him; but now he saw that something must be done. 
In Arizona it was not customary to pull a pistol 
upon a man; that was regarded as an act both un- 
christian-like and wasteful of time — Arizonans 
nearly always shot out of the pocket without draw- 
ing their weapons at all — and into Mr. 'Waco 
Bill's' groin went the sure bullet of the man who, 
local wits used to say, wore crape upon his hat in 
memory of his departed virtues. 



228 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

"The bullet struck, and Duffield bent over with 
a most Chesterfieldian bow and wave of the hand : 
'My name's Duffield, sir,' he said, 'and them 'ere's 
mee visitin' card.' " 

There were other outlaws within the Territory 
of very different stripe than "Waco Bill" or the 
"Pride of the Panhandle." There were years, like 
those preceding and during the early part of the 
Civil War, when much of Arizona was practically 
without law, and therefore a refuge for all kinds 
of desperadoes from other localities. Those were 
the times when it was said that the California 
vigilance committee and the peace officers of Texas 
were the most zealous immigrant agents Arizona 
ever had. 

Many conditions in Arizona served to encourage 
the vicious to deeds of crime. The border was in- 
fested with Mexican outlaws, and a robbery com- 
mitted by them at an isolated miner's cabin, if 
accompanied by murder, might easily be laid at 
the door of the Indians, while innocent Mexicans 
in turn were accused of crimes committed by 
vicious criminal whites. Bullion was often carried 
across lonely stretches of desert or mountain on 
stage coaches where hold-ups were all too fre- 
quent. In 1879 the Phoenix stage was robbed four 
times within four months. In 1882 the pack train 
which carried mail and express across the Pinal 
Mountains into Globe was held up, the express 
messenger killed and $10,000 in gold stolen. In 
Bisbee in '83 five desperadoes, early in the 
evening, entered the store of Goldwater and 



SALOONS AND "BAD MEN" 229 

Castenada, robbed the safe and, in escaping, shot 
and killed at least four people. In '89 a female who 
called herself Pearl Hart, with a man by the name 
of Joe Boot, robbed a stage in Kane Springs canyon. 
Although there was an abundance of evidence 
against her, twelve sentimental pioneers declined 
to convict a perfect lady of stage robbery, and 
immediately thereafter were dismissed for the 
term with caustic and uncomplimentary remarks 
from Judge Doan upon their action. A succeeding 
jury convicted Miss Hart on the charge of taking 
the stage driver's revolver, for which crime she 
was sent to the penitentiary. 

While as a whole the peace officers of the State 
have been capable, fearless and energetic men, in 
a few conspicuous instances they seem to have 
been chosen on the theory that it takes one des- 
perado to capture another. A celebrated case of 
the criminally inclined officer is found in the story 
of the Earps of Tombstone. In the early '80s, when 
lawlessness in southern Arizona was worse than it 
had been for many years, Virgil Earps was city 
marshal of Tombstone and Wyatt Earps was 
deputy United States marshal — this in spite of the 
fact that both of them were professional gamblers 
and were suspected of either planning or par- 
ticipating in at least two stage hold-ups. Asso- 
ciated with Virgil and Wyatt were Morgan and 
Jim Earps and Doc Holliday who, although he 
hung out a dentist's sign, had gambling for a 
vocation and manslaughter for an avocation. 
Bitter enemies of the Earps were the Clanton cow- 
boys of the Babacomari Mountains. 



230 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

One night in October, 1888, Virgil had arrested 
Ike Clanton on the charge of disorderly conduct, 
though it appeared that the arrest was simply 
made as a declaration of war upon the Clanton 
gang. Seeming to appreciate the great advantage 
that being peace officers gave the Earps, and so 
desiring to postpone hostilities until a more aus- 
picious occasion, the following morning Billy and 
Ike Clanton, with Frank and Tom McLowery, two 
other members of their gang, saddled their horses 
preparatory for leaving town. As they came out 
of the K Corral they were met by the four Earps 
and Doc Holliday, all heavily armed. The Earps 
opened battle at once, shooting and killing Billy 
Clanton and Frank McLowery, while Morgan Earps 
and Virgil received flesh wounds. The Earps at 
once gave themselves up to friendly authorities 
who promptly dismissed them. 

The Clantons plotted vengeance. Soon after 
Virgil Earps was shot from ambush, but got off 
with a wounded arm. Morgan Earps was not so 
lucky, for one night, while in a saloon, he was shot 
to death by a man hijdden in the darkness, his 
assailant firing through a rear glass door. With- 
out going into details of the subsequent events, it 
may simply be said that Frank Stilwell, an enemy 
of the Earps and a friend of the Clantons, was 
killed, supposedly by the Earps at Tucson. Later 
they resisted an officer at Tombstone who had a 
warrant for their arrest, took to the hills and killed 
a Mexican in the Dragoon Mountains; afterwards 
they fled into Colorado where for some unex- 



SALOONS AND "BAD MEN" 231 

plainable reason Governor Pitkins refused to grant 
requisition papers from Arizona for their arrest. 

The most sanguinary feud ever known in the 
State was that between the Grahams and the 
Tewksburys in Tonto Basin in '86-'87. The Basin 
was a cattle country, but in '86 or earlier, sheep 
were driven from the north and herded under the 
protection of the Tewksbury brothers. The Gra- 
hams, who were cattlemen, resented this action and 
gave various hints to the sheep herders that a 
continued residence in Tonto Basin would doubt- 
less undermine their health. Some of these hints, 
given after dark, took the form of bullets, which 
would go singing through the herder's frying pan 
as he fried his bacon for supper. However, when 
frightened herders fled, others were put in their 
places, and soon open warfare was proclaimed by 
the Grahams. John Tewksbury and a man by the 
name of Jacobs were running sheep on shares. 
One day both were ambushed near the Tewksbury 
house and killed; then, keeping the rest of the 
Tewksbury family away by a fusillade of bullets 
from their hiding place among the rocks, the assail- 
ants allowed the bodies to be devoured by hogs. 
This was sowing dragon's teeth with a vengeance, 
and resulted in a bloody harvest of twenty-three of 
the Graham faction killed and four of the Tewks- 
bur>'s. Three of the Grahams were hanged by their 
enemies on the rim of the MogoUons, most of the 
others were shot from ambush. 

The last to be killed was Tom Graham. With 
most of his faction gone and knowing that the 



232 THE STORY OP ARIZONA 

threat of the Tewksburys to "get him" if he stayed 
would be surely carried out, Tom fled to the Salt 
River Valley. The writer ate breakfast with him 
in the morning when, after an all night's ride, he 
arrived in Phoenix. "They sure would have got 
me if I'd stayed," he said, "and they may get me 
yet." 

What he feared came to pass; he was shot and 
killed from ambush as he was hauling a load of 
grain from a ranch he had bought in the valley to 
Tempe. Two young women who saw the deed tes- 
tified that Ed Tewksbury was one of the murderers. 
John Rhodes, one of the Tewksbury gang, and Ed 
Tewksbury were arrested. At the preliminary 
hearing Graham's widow attempted to shoot 
Rhodes but failed. Rhodes was discharged, Tewks- 
bury was convicted, but on a technicality a new 
trial was granted, when the jury disagreed. 

While these are conspicuous instances, there 
were many other acts of violence which occurred 
about that time, the situation becoming so serious 
that, in a message to the Legislature, Governor F. 
A. Tritle called its attention to the thefts, murders 
and general lawlessness specially prevailing in 
the southern part of the Territory. The President 
of the United States was petitioned to ask Congress 
for an appropriation of $150,000 to be used in the 
establishment of mounted rangers to protect the 
State from criminals and Indians. 

Of all of the crimes committed in the South- 
west, none has been given more publicity than the 
hold-up and robbery of Maj. J. W. Wham, in 



SALOONS AND "BAD MEN" 233 

1889. On May 11th of that year, Major Wham was 
driving from Fort Grant to Fort Thomas, carrying 
with him $26,000 in gold, to pay the Fort Thomas 
soldiers. With him were eleven colored infantry- 
men and a sergeant. When the party entered a 
gulch just beyond Cedar Springs they found their 
way blocked by a large bowlder. Several of the 
soldiers, while attempting to get the rock out of 
the way, were surprised by a volley of shots com- 
ing from the hillside. Unexpected as was the 
attack, the soldiers souglrt shelter in orderly 
fashion and started to return the fire, but upon 
seeing that the gallant major had turned tail and 
was flying down the road, and that the enemy was 
shooting from stone breastworks, they followed in 
their commander's wake, leaving the gold for the 
highwaymen to carry away at their leisure. Eight 
soldiers were wounded, but none seriously. 

An investigation was made by the military 
authorities, and within a short time eight promi- 
nent ranchers of the Upper Gila Valley were ar- 
rested, including Dave Cunningham, Dave Rogers, 
Tom Lamb, Ed Lyman and Wal Follett. The 
three Folletts were soon dismissed, but the others 
were bound over for trial. The attorneys in the 
case were among the most prominent in the Terri- 
tory; those for the defense were Marcus A. Smith, 
Arizona's delegate to Congress, and Ben Goodrich. 
The prosecuting attorney was Henry Jeffords. 
While the trial abounded in picturesque and excit- 
ing incidents, there is not room to enter into them 
here. Altogether 165 witnesses were examined, 



234 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

but in the end the jurors found the prisoners not 
guilty. 

The Arizona rangers, which were organized in 
Arizona in 1901, at first numbered but twelve men, 
with Burton C. Mossman, a young, energetic cattle- 
man, as captain. Dayton Graham of Cochise 
County was first lieutenant. Every member of the 
company was a picked man, of proven ability in 
handling criminals and of unquestioned nerve and 
courage. An arrangement was entered into with 
Colonel Kosterlitsky, commander of the Mexican 
Rurales, that the command of either might pursue 
criminals across the border. 

From the time of their organization, the rangers 
proved their value to the State, not only in captur- 
ing many desperate criminals, but their activity in 
pursuing the evildoers resulted in an exodus of 
many an undesirable citizen. In 1902, T. H. Rynn- 
ing, former lieutenant of the Rough Riders, was 
appointed by Governor Brodie to the captaincy 
of the rangers to succeed Mossman, and like his 
predecessor, he made an able and efficient com- 
mander. By 1903 the company included twenty-six 
men which, during the six years of its existence, 
arrested over 1,000 men charged with serious 
crimes and three times that number for lesser 
offenses. 

Although not acting in an official capacity, one 
of the most picturesque of Rynning's acts happened 
in 1906. In the mining town of Cananea, south of 
the Mexican line, were living hundreds of Amer- 
icans. In June several thousand striking Mexican 



.J 



SALOONS AND "BAD MEN" 235 

miners were terrorizing the camp. A lumber yard 
had been set on fire, five Americans and a number 
of Mexicans killed. With the consent of Governor 
Ysabel of Sonora, Rynning led a force of 270 
Americans into Cananea, and although they did 
not find it necessary to resort to arms, their pres- 
ence greatly reassured the American inhabitants. 

In 1907 Rynning resigned to become superinten- 
dent of the Territorial Prison, and the captaincy 
of the rangers went to Harry Wheeler, who later, 
while sheriff of Cochise County, became widely 
known through the active part he took in the 
deportation of the members of the I. W. W. and 
others in the summer of 1917. 

The company of rangers was discontinued in 
1909 by an act of the legislature as a result of a 
political quarrel between that body and Governor 
Kibbey. 

THE BOGUS BARON OF THE COLORADOS 

When the United States, by virtue of the treaty 
of Guadalupe Hidalgo and that confirming the 
Gadsden Purchase, acquired its great southwestern 
territory, it also, under the terms of these treaties, 
fell heir to many claims of private persons for 
large tracts of land granted them, it was alleged, 
by the Spanish crown. 

In New Mexico these claims involved 6,643,938 
acres of land, and in Arizona 11,326,108 acres. To 
consider and adjudicate these claims. Congress, in 
1891, passed a bill creating a Court of Private Land 



236 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Claims, which was composed of five justices and 
was organized at Denver, Colorado, July 1, 1891. 
After completing its work, it disbanded June 30, 
1904. 

The principal claim for land in Arizona was 
brought by James Addison Reavis, who, on Jan- 
uary 3, 1885, filed with the surveyor general a 
request for the survey of the land claimed by him 
and a confirmation of the grant, which he claimed 
was originally given on December 20, 1748, by 
Fernando VI, King of Spain, to one Seiior Don 
Miguel de Peralta de la Cordoba, Baron of the 
Colorados, etc. 

The alleged grant was in the form of a quad- 
rangle, approximately 236 miles from east to west 
and 79 miles from north to south, with its south- 
west corner 39 miles south of an initial point on 
the south side of the Gila River opposite the Salt, 
and included Phoenix and the Salt River Valley, 
the Gila Valley, many of the richest mines of 
the Territory, Clifton, Arizona, and Silver City, 
New Mexico. 

Reavis first made his claim by virtue of a deed 
from a man by the name of Willing, who, it was 
alleged, inherited it through a long but legally 
unbreakable chain of descent and transfer from 
old Don Miguel. However, when the matter came 
up before the land court, Reavis made the claim 
wholly through his wife, a Spanish lady by his 
statement, whom he introduced to the dignified 
judges by the simple and unassuming name of 
Dona Sofia Loreto Micaela de Peralta-Reavis, nee 



.i 



SALOONS AND "BAD MEN" 237 

Maso y Silva de Peralta de la Cordoba, the great 
granddaughter of Don Miguel. As for himself he 
had quit being just Jim Reavis and was Don James 
Addison Peralta-Reavis. Even old ancestral Don 
Miguel's name had sprouted, and now with all the 
buds of it nicely fruited, it was Don Miguel 
Nemencio Silva de Peralta de la Cordoba y Garcia 
de Carrillo de la Cordoba, grandee of Spain, Sir 
Knight of the Redlands, gentleman of the king's 
chamber. Sir Knight of the Golden Fleece, and a 
lot more. 

Now, as a matter of fact, James Addison, either 
on his own account or that of his wife, had no 
more valid a claim to a Spanish grant than he had 
to King Solomon's Mines, or the canals on the 
Planet Mars, but he certainly did have imagination, 
and if he had gone in for literature instead of 
fraud, he would have made Jules Verne or Rider 
Haggard look like the drabbest of realists. Men 
have worn striped clothing and lived behind bars 
half their lives for attempting to steal a little 
silver plate, J. Addison very nearly got away with 
almost 20,000 square miles of ranches, mines and 
cities. 

To begin at the beginning, our friend with the 
big imagination made up Don Miguel out of his 
own over-active brain, and then after taking one 
look at his own creation decided that so gallant 
a gentleman could be none less than the king's 
bosom friend. By the way, for some reason J. 
Addison had shifted monarchs on the old Don, for 
now it was Philip V who was his patron instead of 



238 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Fernando VI, but that was a mere detail. The im- 
portant thing was that one afternoon his Royal 
Highness, just to show what a good fellow he was, 
said to Don Miguel, "Don, old man, how would 
you like to be Baron of Arizona?" 

"I'd like it fine," says Don M. "Where in the 
wide world is Arizona?" 

"Oh, it's over on the other side of the Big 
Water," says the King. "It has a lovely winter 
climate, and you don't suffer with the cold even 
in the summer. Besides, you can't dig any place 
without striking a gold mine." 

"Wonderful!" says Don M. "How much land 
goes with the title?" 

"Help yourself," says the King. "There's lots 
of it there.'* 

"Thank you kindly," says Don M. "Put me 
down for about twelve million acres." 

Easy, wasn't it, when all one had to do was to 
dream it — like making money on one's own hand- 
press. 

It is said that Mr. De Quincey could conjure a 
dream like that almost any evening with two pills 
of opium. We used to know a Chinese laundry- 
man who could do it with one. But what Reavis 
wanted to do was to be able to wake up and find 
his dream still going on; in other words, he wanted 
to make people believe that he, Jim Reavis, of 
Henry County, Missouri, who used to be a street 
car conductor and later a newspaper solicitor was, 
by marriage at least, a sure enough Spanish Don 
entitled to wear a coat all spangled over with 



SALOONS AND "BAD MEN" 239 

orders of nobility and both pockets full of emolu- 
ments. 

It sounds like something of a task, doesn't it, 
when one thinks of all the things he had to do — 
first, make it appear that Don Miguel was a real 
person; second, show that the king did really 
grant him the barony of the Colorados or Ari- 
zonaca (it had several names), and last, that Mrs. 
Reavis was really the heir to the old Don? 

To pick up the thread of our story where the 
plot begins to thicken, in the '70s there lived in 
Sherwood Valley in Mendocino County, California, 
an olive-complexioned, black-haired young woman 
whose father was an American, John A. Treadway, 
and whose mother was an Indian woman. Only a 
few people seemed to know just who the parents 
of the girl were, as she lived with Americans for 
some years. Reavis met her while on a trip de- 
voted to the manufactory of evidence to support 
the old Willing claim, and suddenly decided that 
it would be much easier to assume this girl was 
the descendant of the mythical Don Miguel and 
marry her than to carry the line down through 
Willing. No sooner planned than done. Reavis 
planted the girl's family tree at once, and had it 
bearing dons and grandees inside of a week. It 
was more difficult, however, to coach the girl on 
the part she was to play, but Reavis was equal even 
to that, and for years drilled her daily until at last 
she could not only act the part of a grand lady, 
but seems to have half believed that in very truth 
she was the Doiia Sofia, the heir to the Castles on 
the Gila. 



240 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

In order to make Don Miguel a real person, 
Reavis went to Guadalajara, Mexico, where in 
some mysterious manner he was able to spend 
unobserved hours alone with the old vice-regal 
records, and after he had finished with his quill 
pen and the ink was nicely dried, all through the 
old volumes and papers there was evidence and to 
spare bearing on his grant, including a decree 
creating the Barony of Arizona and a book of 
genealogy showing the noble descent of Mrs. 
Reavis. 

So pleased was Don Jim with what he had been 
able to accomplish that he gave $1,000 for an altar 
cloth for the cathedral at Guadalajara and erected 
a $15,000 drinking fountain at the city of Monterey. 

Wishing to feast his eyes on his ancestral halls 
and hills, Reavis took his wife, the Doiia Sofia, who 
by this time knew her lesson perfectly, across the 
blue Atlantic, and with his grand air seems to 
have had no more difTiculty in obtaining access to 
the royal archives at Madrid than he had in look- 
ing for what he wanted in Mexico. Here, too, when 
he had finished poring over the records, every- 
thing he wanted there was there. 

By this time Don Jim had almost made himself 
believe that he was the real thing. He lived nobly 
at a leading Madrid hotel with a retinue of liveried 
servants. As the Baron of Arizona he entertained 
the American legation and with his wife was re- 
ceived with the honors of nobility at the Spanish 
Court. 

Where did Reavis obtain the money to do all 



SALOONS AND "BAD MEN" 241 

this? That was easy. After convincing some of 
the most astute attorneys of America of the gen- 
uineness of his claim, it is not strange that he was 
also able to scare owners of mines and ranches 
within the limits of his "barony" into paying him 
good prices for quitclaim deeds, and to sell in- 
terests in his broad acres to capitalists for real 
money. 

For a short time he lived at Arizola, on the 
Southern Pacific Railroad, a short distance east of 
Casa Grande, where his wife received her guests 
in robes of velvet and his twin boys, Carlos and 
Miguel, covered their noble heads in caps of royal 
purple with monogramed coronets emblazoned 
upon them. It is said that from 1887 to 1893 
Reavis' living expenses for himself and his family 
could not have been less than $60,000 a year. He 
divided most of his time between expensive hotels 
in New York and Europe, a country house on 
Staten Island and a mansion in California. His 
familiars included millionaires and high govern- 
ment officials. 

In spite of all this, before the formation of the 
land court, when Reavis sang his siren song before 
Congressional committees and to the surveyor 
general at Washington he was confronted with the 
unenthusiastic ears of agnosticism. His story 
might be true, but the gentlemen wanted to be 
shown. 

As time went on the gullible goldfish grew 
more chary of his bait; in brief, his story grew 
stale, and ugly rumors were repeated about the 
validity of the grant. 



242 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Nevertheless, with magnificent audacity, Reavis 
brought his claim before the land court, and his 
former counsels having deserted him, among 
whom it is said was Robert G. Ingersoll, with the 
assistance of an obscure attorney he tried his own 
case, producing what at first seemed an over- 
whelming weight of testimony in his favor. There 
were cedulas, decrees and writs in Spanish and 
English; there were royal seals, royal signatures 
and rubrics; there were not only genealogies but 
portraits of noble ancestors. 

But it was all of no avail. Ever since the claim 
had been filed, experts in the employ of the gov- 
ernment had been investigating the case and the 
work they did was worthy of a Sherlock Holmes 
or an Auguste Dupin, From the records at Madrid 
it was learned that the will of the second Baron 
of Arizona, passing down the barony, was un- 
doubtedly a forgery; and at Guadalajara a careful 
scrutiny of the records showed that a cedula, advis- 
ing the city that the king had appointed a new 
viceroy, had been, by marvelous forgery and sub- 
stitution of words, transformed into a decree 
creating the barony of Arizona. In a book of 
genealogies, thirty-five leaves of solidly forged 
matter, showing the noble descent of Mrs. Reavis, 
had been interpolated. Even Mrs. Reavis' plebeian 
blood was revealed. As witness after witness gave 
his evidence, slowly the edifice of fraud so in- 
geniously built up by Reavis crumbled about him. 

Not only was his case decided against him, but 
at its close he was immediately arrested for fraud. 



SALOONS AND "BAD MEN" 243 

convicted in the district court, and on July 18, 1896, 
went to the penitentiary of New Mexico, where he 
remained until April, 1898. 

Upon the unfortunate wife the blow fell the 
hardest. From being an honored guest at the 
Court of Spain, a baroness in her own right, she 
became a menial in the houses of Santa Fe, glad 
to obtain even the humblest work to sustain her- 
self and her two boys. 

Wm. M. Tipton, one of the government inves- 
tigators, said of the claim : "No plan was ever more 
ingeniously devised, none ever carried out with 
greater patience, industry, skill and effrontery." 
It was all the work of one man, James Addison 
Reavis, the ex-street car conductor, the ex-solicitor 
for newspapers, and it was, perhaps, the most 
gigantic fraud ever attempted against the govern- 
ment. 



Chapter XVII 

TRANSPORTATION AFTER THE 
WAR 

Pack-Trains, Stages and 16-Mule Freighters 

UNTIL well into the '80s the horse, the mule 
and the burro were basic factors in all 
Arizona transportation. The burro was the 
faithful friend of the Mexican laborer or the 
prospector. He required little care, any kind of 
food would do, including kitchen scraps or desert 
browse; from birth to death he would never know 
curry-comb and he would carry on his back any- 
thing from firewood from the hills to dried grasses 
from the mesas. Often the size of his load, 
especially if it were hay, would so eclipse him that 
naught could be seen but a pair of long ears before 
and a tip of a tail behind. 

On account of their larger size and greater 
strength, the mules naturally made better pack 
animals than the burros. They were used by the 
army in transporting camp equipment and sup- 
plies over the mountains; by traders in the early 
days between Tucson and Guaymas; by miners to 
carry supplies to their lonely shafts situated far 
up some apparently inaccessible canyon; and again 
to bring ore down to mill or smelter. In fact, they 

244 



TRANSPORTATION AFTER THE WAR 245 

were used anywhere and everywhere to transport 
goods in countries impassable for wagons. 

Among the best pack-trains ever seen in Arizona 
were those organized by General Crook in his cam- 
paign against the Apaches. Bony giants and 
undersized rats were discarded and every animal 
chosen was in accordance with a regular standard 
as to weight, height and age. 

A pack-train had a nomenclature all its own, 
the suadera was the sweat cloth, the aparejo was 
the pack cushion, the burden to be carried was 
called the cargo, the train itself was the atajo, the 
packer was the arriero, the pack master the patron, 
and the head loader the cargador. 

Leading the mules, which, of course, followed 
the trail in single jBle, would be the white, bell- 
mare, which the mules would follow with unswerv- 
ing fidelity. 

As for loads, it is said that a small billiard table 
was carried to Tiger Camp in the heart of the Brad- 
shaws by one mule, and an organ for the wife of 
a superintendent, at almost any mine, would offer 
no unsurmountable difficulty to a mule with mu- 
sical ear and a strong back. 

A trail-broken mule, when traveling in the 
mountains, always walks on the outside edge of 
the narrow path, for the reason that if he fails to 
do so his pack is apt to collide with an overhanging 
cliff. The story is told of a tenderfoot mule who 
was carrying a cylindrical section of a heavy sheet 
iron chimney, resembling in size and appearance 
a large drum. The mule, poor soul, knew no better 



246 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

than to walk on the inside of the trail, which fol- 
lowed a narrow shelf jutting out from a precipitous 
canyon wall. So, jogging unsuspectingly along, 
abruptly the cylinder came in contact with an over- 
hanging rock. The mule toppled dizzily, tried 
vainly to restore his equilibrium and went over 
the brink down a deep, sliding incline. As the 
cylinder struck the ground it bounded, and the 
mule bounded with it, the two together turning a 
half-summersault; for a brief instant the mule's 
hoofs touched the treacherous slope, then over he 
went again, and for a second time the resilient 
cylinder struck the ground and once more the mule 
described a graceful parabola through the atmos- 
phere. A dozen times this touching scene was 
repeated before the mule reached the bottom. The 
arriero watched the poor animal in horror, and 
when the final bump at the bottom was made 
listened for the crunching of bones; but what he 
heard was something different. The last bound 
landed the animal feet downward in a sandy wash; 
automatically the legs stiffened, the neck out- 
stretched, and a bray that shook the hill came from 
the mule's undaunted throat. But thereafter he 
walked on the outside of the trail. 

As late as the '70s that ancient vehicle of Mexico, 
the careta, still plied up and down the Santa Cruz 
Valley between Hermosillo and Tucson. No iron 
entered into the construction of these primitive 
two-wheeled carts, the various parts being fastened 
together with wooden pins and strips of rawhide, 
while the wheels were formed of sections of tree 



TRANSPORTATION AFTER THE WAR 247 

trunks. To them were usuallj^ hitched two oxen 
with the bow tied to their horns. One always knew 
when a careta was approaching, even before it 
came in sight. So outrageous was the squeak of 
the ungreased axles that it is said the sound of 
one could be heard in Tubac as the vehicle crossed 
the border twenty miles below. 

In vast contrast to these was the great Concord 
stage-coach which has been mentioned before. 
The body of the coach was hung on thorough- 
braces, which were stout leather straps attached 
to C-springs, front and rear, and which made a 
wonderfully easy-riding carriage. 

In the mid-"70s a stage line running coaches 
like these carried travelers from Dos Palmas, 
California, the end of the Southern Pacific, 
through Ehrenberg to Wickenburg, where one line 
branched through Antelope Valley to Prescott, 
while the main line went via the Agua Fria to 
Phoenix and then on to Florence and Tucson. 
In the '80s, when roads of one kind or another 
had been opened up pretty well throughout the 
Territory, all of the principal towns were con- 
nected by stage service, though on some lines buck- 
boards or covered spring wagons would be used. 
Where the country did not permit roads, a pony 
express would be established, when the rider, if 
his trail lay in the Indian country, would take his 
letters in his saddlebag and his life in his hands. 

One early express was established in June, 1864, 
by Robertson and Parish, which went from Prescott 
via La Paz to California. Another line carrying 



248 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

mail from Prescott to California was operated by 
Duke and Company, and went via Mojave. In 
those days the mail came through once in two 
weeks, providing the carriers were not stopped by 
Apache arrows. Letters could be sent to the East 
from Prescott by military express with military 
escort, though both soldiers and express riders 
would sometimes be killed. 

After 1878, when the Southern Pacific reached 
Yuma, passage eastward was made over the Kearns 
and Mitchell Stage Line, which would carry a pas- 
senger via Tucson to Austin, Texas, for $240. Even 
as late as 1880, mail was carried via buckboard 
stage from San Bernardino, through Mojave and 
Prescott on to Santa Fe. In the '70s two stage lines 
operated between Tucson and Sonora, and in the 
early '80s a thriving business was done on the Tuc- 
son-Tombstone Line. 

Drivers, of course, were chosen for their brav- 
ery and marksmanship as well as for their skill 
in handling horses. When valuable expressage 
was to be carried there would be a messenger 
aboard who, besides carrying the usual six- 
shooter, would be armed with a sawed-ofif, double- 
barreled shotgun. Often enough; occasion was 
found to use it against road agents or Indians. 

The babbling brook does not enter prominently 
into Arizona desert scenery. On these long, hot, 
sandy jornadas the only water for travelers or 
teams would be obtained at desert wells, at which 
the stage stations were located. Water would be 
hauled up one or two hundred feet in a barrel, 
and the windlass which raised it would be operated 



TRANSPORTATION AFTER THE WAR 249 

by a plodding, blindfolded mule. Besides the well 
and the corral there would be a building or two 
where supplies both liquid and otherwise could be 
obtained, and while it was all right for the horse 
to take his water straight, it was usually expected 
that the human traveler would precede his water 
with something stronger. 

All freight was carried in high-sided wagons. 
A first-class outfit carrying freight from Ehrenberg 
to Prescott would consist of a lead wagon and 
two or three trailers, and would be drawn by from 
sixteen to twenty-four mules, driven by some Over- 
land Jack from his place on the saddle of the 
"nigh" wheeler. Instead of a handful of lines used 
by the jehu in the circus parades, Overland Jack 
used but a single one — the jerk-line. One long 
steady pull and the leaders would turn with the 
pull to the right, a succession of jerks and the 
little mules in front would turn in the opposite 
direction. 

In freighting in a mountain country, bells would 
be fastened to the beasts' hames so that in going up 
and down long, narrow, winding grades a driver 
would be apprised when a team was coming 
toward him, and so could sidetrack his train at a 
passable place. 

Every freight outfit, besides the driver, had 
a swamper who rode on the wagons, looked after 
the load, and shared the responsibility of guarding 
the cargo in case of attack. Every freighter, at all 
times, kept a rifle handy, and in Apache country 
prudent drivers would go in as large companies 
as possible. 



Chapter XVIII 

ARIZONA MINES AFTER THE CIVIL 
WAR 

ARIZONA has ever been the land of the Golden 
Fleece. It was the lure of gold that induced 
the viceroy of new Spain to send Fray Mar- 
cos to spy out the land. It was the same irresistible 
impulse that caused Coronado to brave desert and 
death in his expedition to the legendary Cibola; 
and, though he returned to Mexico broken-hearted 
in the belief that he had followed a will-of-the- 
wisp, nevertheless the treasure was always there, 
but so securely locked in the fastnesses of the hills 
that its presence was not suspected. Little by little 
a few of the treasure chests of Mother Earth were 
discovered and opened; and, haltingly, with many 
hopes deferred and promises unfulfilled, with 
many chance successes and sudden fortunes, with 
riches that came by accident, with riches that came 
only from patient toil and scientific methods, min- 
ing in the State has advanced until today Arizona 
leads the nation in the production of metallic 
wealth. 

It ought to make an interesting study, this 
romance of Arizona's treasure troves, yet we must 
confess that as we read over what has been written 
here — for this introduction is set down last — we 
find much that is prosaic. 

250 







E^ii^'.'^f' 








"^^^^^^^^l^^l 


^^^IP 







ARIZONA MINES AFTER CIVIL WAR 251 

The story of a mine after it is discovered — its 
transfers from one set of men to another — is 
mostly names and dates, and has usually the same 
fascination possessed by a chronology, as for in- 
stance in Nehemiah : "And Jeshua begat Joiakim," 
and "Joiakim begat Eliashib," and "Eliashib begat 
Joida," and there you are. So we have begun to 
wonder if the reader, to get the true romance from 
a chapter on mining, should not do considerable 
reading between the lines. We see how the mem- 
bers of the new syndicate that acquired the mine 
made a million dollars in three months; but if the 
reader of this chapter is like the writer, the sen- 
tence means but little, for to us a million dollars 
is a wholly mythical amount. Besides, it wasn't 
we that got the million; we do not even know the 
man. It is hard to enthuse to the boiling point 
about a million dollars of unearned increment ac- 
quired by a man you never even heard of before. 
We would rather try to imagine how prospector 
John Doe felt as he followed up his line of float. 
Would he find the mother lode or not, and would 
it be worth anything after he did find it? 

The case of Richard Roe as, with swinging pick, 
he follows his tiny vein, also has its interest. 
Would it widen to great riches or would it pinch 
out altogether? What was in his mind that after- 
noon as he crimped the edges of the cap about the 
fuse with his teeth? Certainly not that the ful- 
minate of murcury might blow his fool head off. 
An old powder man forgets that part. No, he was 
wondering just what he would do with the million 



252 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

dollars he would get if the shot he was about to 
fire would open up a true fissure vein about six 
feet wide that would run five or six thousand dol- 
lars of gold to the ton. Some way we find it easy 
to get en rapport with that man. He hasn't ac- 
quired the million dollars yet, he only imagines 
what he would do with the million dollars if he 
did get it. Even a sheep herder can feel that way. 

Then, too, we can be interested in the unusual, 
though it be but a variation of the old story of the 
burro, the mule or the horse that led the prospector 
straight to the biggest mine in all the country. 
(By the way, think of all of the mines that would 
be still undiscovered, and the fortunes that would 
be still unmade and undrunk if the old-time pros- 
pectors had used Fords, and all the burros had 
been turned into "bastrama" and eaten, as they say 
the program is to be from now on.) 

Yet putting persiflage aside, there are few 
stories bigger than those concerning the lure of 
the metals. Men have been crushed to death in 
drifts to obtain gold for a woman's jewels — or to 
save a country; they have been scorched at smelter 
mouths to reclaim silver for a magnate's side- 
board — or copper to carry power across a con- 
tinent. 

Perhaps the biggest story of all is that which 
tells how one man, out of the strength of his own 
mind and will, wrings success where all others 
have lost. A mine wrecks company after com- 
pany; then comes a new syndicate with a master 
mind at its head, and failure is turned to success. 



ARIZONA MINES AFTER CIVIL WAR 253 

It is a battle, not of cannon and sword, but of 
chemistry and modern efficiency. If refractory 
ores can be worked for so much the fight is won, 
if the cost is but a few cents more per ton, the fight 
is lost. The battle ground is the laboratory — the 
strategists are the chemists and the efficiency 
engineers. 

Finally there is the part played by the man 
with the pick — a story of muscle and sweat and 
danger. It would take a Victor Hugo to depict 
that! 

Returning to our narrative, we have seen how 
mineral locations along the present Mexican Bor- 
der were first worked in a small way by the 
Spaniards in the eighteenth century; we have also 
noted briefly the mining of Americans, who, like 
Ehrenberg and Poston, came into the Santa Cruz 
Valley in 1854; of the shafts that were dug in 
spite of the hostility of the savages; of the mills 
and furnaces that were successfully constructed, 
though the lumber had to be whipsawed and 
brought from mountain tops and all the machinerj^ 
hauled over many weary miles of desert. 

The Ajo copper mines, in the southern part of 
the State, were operated in the fifties, and the 
placers of the lower Gila, worked about the same 
time, yielded fortunes. In the second year of the 
Civil War, placers were discovered along the 
Colorado, and by reason of their being, towns like 
La Paz, which was situated on the Colorado, 124 
miles above Yuma, and once boasted of a popu- 
lation of five thousand people, sprang into exis- 



254 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

tence. The glory of La Paz was short lived, for 
Ehrenberg, six miles farther up the river, on ac- 
count of its better steamboat landing, in 1863, took 
the population away from the earlier town and 
left it an abode for owls and coyotes. 

Before the placer excitement ended, in 1864, 
$2,000,000 in gold had been taken from the sands of 
Yuma County, whereupon mining interests shifted 
to lodes. 

In recent years placer mining has revived in 
Yuma County. In the Plomosa district, east of the 
Colorado, in the Posas Valley, from 1904 to 1912, 
gold to the value of $32,314 has been taken from 
sand, and from other districts, from 1906 to 1912, 
$52,985. 

In spite of the continual hostility of the Hual- 
pais, who had the disagreeable habit of shooting 
arrows at miners from ambush, prospecting in 
Mojave County began as early as 1858, and mines 
were worked in considerable numbers from 1863. 
There was every evidence that the country was 
exceedingly rich in minerals. From 1880 to 1883 
the county is said to have produced $60,000 in gold 
and $485,000 in silver. According to Hinton, the 
product in 1887 was $200,000 per month. One of 
the biggest of the early discoveries was the Moss 
gold mine, near Hardyville. It is reported that, in 
1865, two tons of its ore netted $185,000 in gold. 
The McCracken and Signal, in the southern part 
of the county, were located in 1874, and yielded a 
total of over a million dollars before they sus- 
pended operations in 1880. Hinton states that up 



ARIZONA MINES AFTER CIVIL WAR 255 

to 1876, 2,000 claims had been recorded in the 
county. 

Mojave County is now dotted with rich mines, 
so many indeed that our limited space will not 
permit even a recital of the names. Mention, how- 
ever, must be made of the Tom Reed, in the Oat- 
man district, which in six years produced over 
$4,000,000 in gold. The Gold Roads is also a heavy 
producer of the yellow metal. 

Valuable turquoise deposits have been found 
near Mineral Park, southeast of Chloride. 

Both placer and lode mining were actively en- 
gaged in during the early years after the war, in 
Yavapai County, which at that time included all 
of Arizona north of the Gila and east of Yuma 
County. 

About Prescott, gold indications were found 
all through the hills, and almost every stream had 
rich placers. The leading mining districts were 
Weaver, Hassayampa, Lynx Creek, Turkey Creek, 
Humbug, Peck and Date Creek. 

Bancroft gives the gold products of Yavapai, in 
1873, as $103,600; and from 1880 to 1883 as $110,- 
000. The silver production in 1880-83 is given at 
nearly two million. 

It is interesting to read the names that the early 
Yavapai miners gave the prospects from which 
they hoped to derive their fortunes. The senti- 
mental ones chose such appellations as "Aurora," 
"Naiad Queen," "Minnehaha," "Mezeppa," "Sun- 
rise" and "Sunset." Some practical miners simply 
set down their claims as "Brunson and Barnum," 



256 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

or "Hatz and Collier" ; the more fanciful christened 
their properties the "Big Bug," "Black Jack," 
"Little Joker," "Jack-on-the-Green," "Plug Ugly" 
and the like. An optimist records his mine as 
"Hidden Treasure," while a pessimist labels his, 
in advance, "Little Fraud." 

The Vulture 

The greatest of all Yavapai County's mines 
(now a part of Maricopa) and indeed the richest 
gold mine of the State, was the Vulture, situated 
eleven miles west of Wickenburg. It was dis- 
covered in 1863 by Henry Wickenburg, who gave 
his name to the town. The old prospector knew 
that he had a mine the moment he saw it, for 
scattered over the surface of the ground were 
pieces of quartz from which gold could be picked 
out with a pocket knife. There was no water at 
the Vulture and all of the ore had to be hauled 
over a desert road to the Hassayampa River, where 
it was reduced in arastras which had been set up 
by contractors, who would buy the ore from Wick- 
enburg at the mine, paying him fifteen dollars a 
ton for it, and taking out the ore themselves. The 
main Vulture claim was sold to B. Phelps, a New 
York mining man, in 1866, for $75,000. There- 
after it changed hands many times before the lode 
was finally exhausted. It has been said that alto- 
gether $10,000,000 in gold was taken from the 
mine. 

Other prominent Yavapai mines included the 
Tiger, the Peck, the Tip Top, and the Senator, 



ARIZONA MINES AFTER CIVIL WAR 257 

Octave, and Congress. The richest placers of the 
county were at Lynx Creek where over a million 
dollars was taken from the gravel. Altogether, 
Rich Hill, in the Weaver district, yielded a half a 
million dollars in nuggets, from an acre, on its 
four-thousand foot summit, and another half a 
million from the gulches on its sides. Placer min- 
ing in the Weaver district from 1905 to 1912 pro- 
duced $55,417 in gold. 

A half million dollar smelter, now operating 
at Humboldt, handles the ores for numbers of 
small Yavapai County mines. There are also 
operating mills at Crown King and Mayer. 

The Monte Christo mine, a few miles northeast 
of Wickenburg, is a silver-copper property of great 
promise, its thorough development work showing 
a splendid body of ore. 

The United Verde Extension in 1916 opened up 
a wonderfully rich body of copper ore, and stock 
in the company, which had gone begging at fifty 
cents, rose to $42.00 

The Silver King 

In Pinal County, which was organized from 
parts of Maricopa, Pima and Yavapai in 1875, 
975 mining claims were recorded by 1876. The 
county in its early days was noted for its richness 
in silver mines. Nine tons of ore from the Stone- 
wall Jackson yielded $200,000 in silver, and in 
1881 the Mack Morris mine in Richmond Basin 
produced $300,000 of the same metal, but the 
greatest of all of the county's silver mines, indeed 



258 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

the greatest in the State, was the wonderful Silver 
King, on the western side of the Pinal range, whose 
mill was located at Pinal. 

It was discovered, in 1872, by a soldier by the 
name of Sullivan who had no proper appreciation 
of the value of the black, metallic lumps which 
flattened when he pounded them with a hammer. 
Charles G. Mason, a rancher for whom Sullivan 
afterwards worked, knew the lumps for silver, 
and later, after Sullivan had left his employ, made 
several attempts to find the lost mine. In 1875 
Mason, with four companions, while returning 
from the Silver Queen in the Globe district with 
a pack train of ore, was attacked by Apaches and 
one of their number killed. The body was buried 
at a temporary military post at the summit of 
Stoneman's grade called Camp Supply, and when 
the miners reached the bottom of the grade, Isaac 
Copeland, one of the party, went in search of a 
mule and found it standing on some croppings at 
the side of the trail. He broke off a piece of the 
metal; one look at it was enough. It was the black 
stuff that Mason had talked about! The lost mine 
was found ! A partnership to own the Silver King, 
as the property was christened, was formed, with 
each of the party — Mason, Copeland, W. H. Long, 
and B. W. Regan — taking one-fourth interest. Cope- 
land and Long soon sold out to their partners for 
$80,000, and the two who stayed in made more than 
that out of the profits during the next six months. 
Mason, who then thought it was a good time to sell, 
parted with his holdings to Col. S. M. Barney, 



ARIZONA MINES AFTER CIVIL WAR 259 

of Yuma, for a quarter of a million dollars, and 
Ragan also later sold his interest to Barney for 
three hundred thousand. 

The editor of the Pinal Drill puts a fine denoue- 
ment on the story. "Several years later when the 
Silver King was in full operation an aged man 
came slowly into the settlement of "Picket Post" 
(Pinal's original name) and gazed with interest at 
the busy scene about him. He went to the office 
of the Company and announced himself as Sulli- 
van, the old soldier, the original discoverer of the 
mine, and asked for work. He was identified, and 
taken into the Company's employ. He had been 
working as a farm hand in California, trying to ob- 
tain sufficient means to return to Arizona." 

The Silver Queen referred to in the Silver King 
story was abandoned after being worked a num- 
ber of years because, as the workings went deeper 
in the ground, the silver ore was so mixed with 
copper that, with the then methods, it could not be 
worked with profit. 

Now it is the successful Magma mine producing 
gold, silver and copper, working 275 men and tak- 
ing out 225 tons of ore daily. 

Pinal County's placer mines are limited to the 
"Old Hat" district where $7,106 in gold was mined 
from 1903 to 1912. There is a tradition of a lump 
of gold weighing 16 pounds being found in the 
gravel and that the finder was murdered for his 
treasure. 

Within the counties of Pima and Santa Cruz, 
wherein lies the Santa Cruz Valley, which, as we 



260 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

have seen, was the home of the earliest worked 
mines in Arizona, are still to be found properties 
rich in gold, silver, copper and lead. 

The World's Fair mine, situated two miles west 
of Harshaw, located in 1879, has produced since 
that date over a million of dollars in the four prin- 
cipal Arizona metals. 

The R. R. R. mine in the Palermo district is also 
a million dollar producer, its total products equal- 
ing that amount between May, 1911, and October, 
1914. It is now closed on account of litigation. 

Placer mines in the Quijotoa district washed 
out $30,268 in gold between 1903 and 1912, and 
in the Greaterville district $30,294 within the same 
period. It is estimated that the total Greaterville 
placer production to date amounts to $7,000,000. 

Aside from the copper mines, which are con- 
sidered elsewhere, the rich silver mines of the 
Tombstone district occupy first place in Cochise 
County history, both as to value of output and 
romantic interest. In the winter of 1877-1878 a 
tall, lanky prospector drove his burro over the 
Apache-infested mountains east of the San Pedro. 
His clothing was worn and patched with deer and 
rabbit skins, his long, scraggy beard was as un- 
kempt as his hair. His name was Ed Schieffelin. 
One day as he started out from the Brunckow 
mines, where he had been doing assessment work, 
a friend shouted to him, "Whar ye goin', Ed?" 

"Just over the hills to look for stones," called 
back the prospector. 

"Wal," commented the friend cheerfully, "the 



ARIZONA MINES AFTER CIVIL WAR 261 

most likely stone for you to find will be your tomb- 
stone.'* 

After that, when Schieffelin came upon the rich 
silver float, and traced it to a ledge which looked 
wonderfully promising, he said grimly, "This 
tombstone is sure good enough for me." 

Schieffelin took a sample of the ore to the Sig- 
nal Mill in Mojave County, where his brother was 
living. Much impressed by its richness, as well as 
by Schieffelin's story, a party was made up, and re- 
turned to the claim. Although the original loca- 
tion was of but moderate value, later claims were 
richer, and soon the Tombstone boom was on. 

Following the usual custom in telling of the dis- 
covery of a mine, we now introduce a mule — in 
fact, several. These particular mules belonged to 
Ed Williams, and one of them, as he wandered off, 
trailed a tie-chain behind him. The next morning, 
following the trail, Williams noticed a metallic 
gleam where the chain had worn the surface of the 
rock, and, behold, the great Contention mine was 
discovered! To settle the "contention" that gave 
the claim its name, Williams and his partner took 
the upper end of the property, which they called 
the Grand Central, and Schieffelin and his friends 
acquired the lower — the Contention. Schieffelin 
soon sold the Contention for $10,000. Afterwards 
it produced millions. 

The seven big mining companies operating in 
the Tombstone district were, the Contention, Con- 
solidated, the Tombstone Mining Co., the Grand 
Central, the Empire, the Stonewall and the Vizina. 



262 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

At a depth of 500 feet water was struck in the Sul- 
phuret shaft and in such quantities that the cost 
to pump it was practically prohibitive. However, 
pumps were installed in the Contention and the 
Grand Central, but the underground flow ran from 
one mine to another, and as the owners of the 
other properties refused to join with the com- 
panies which were pumping, work of necessity was 
soon abandoned. The final shutting down of the 
Contention occurred in 1886 when the surface 
works burned. 

An attempt was made by E. B. Gage and asso- 
ciates, in 1901, to once more operate the Tomb- 
stone mines. They sunk a new shaft near the old 
Contention, going down 1,080 feet. When water 
was encountered they installed the most efTicient 
system of pumps their engineers could devise, but 
the result was a failure. At the maximum they 
were pumping 8,000,000 gallons of water a day, for 
which time the fuel cost alone was $700. 

COPPER 

While it has been estimated that the dividends 
from gold, silver and lead produced in the early 
days of Arizona's history amounted to $100,000,000, 
it was not until the great copper properties of the 
State had begun to be developed that Arizona 
really became a world power in the wealth of its 
minerals, producing in one j'^ear, 1916, metals to 
the value of $203,000,000. 

The bulk of the great copper production of the 



AKIZONA MINES AFTER CIVIL WAR 263 

State comes from eleven companies, which are in 
order of dividend amounts paid, The Copper 
Queen, United Verde, Calumet and Arizona, 
Arizona Copper, Old Dominion (consolidated 
companies), Detroit Copper, Superior & Pittsburg, 
Miami Copper, Shattuck Arizona, Shannon Copper 
and Ray Consolidated, which have paid dividends 
of record to 1916, amounting to $225,000,000. 

The Copper Queen 

To Jack Dunn, a Government scout, belongs the 
honor of discovering the Copper Queen, one of the 
greatest copper producing mines in the world. In 
1877 while on a scouting trip in the Mule Pass 
Mountains, where the city of Bisbee now stands, 
he noticed some copper float that looked promis- 
ing. 

Returning from his trip, Dunn, at Ft. Bowie, 
met George Warren, a prospector of the average 
shiftless, optimistic type, told him about his find, 
and grubstaked him on the usual basis that the 
man who furnished the provisions should own half 
the property found. John Cady, an Arizona pio- 
neer, says that Warren was also grubstaked about 
this time by George Stephens at Eureka Springs. 
In any event, on December 27, 1877, Warren, with 
four others (neither Dunn's nor Stephen's names 
appearing) located the Mercey claim, which was 
afterwards called the Copper Queen. 

During the next few months a number of other 
claims were located, in several of which Warren 
had an interest, but his finds did him little good; 



264 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

he soon sold out whatever interest he had in the 
various properties and squandered the money. It 
is said that he lost one claim in a drunken wager 
over a horse race. Warren drank himself into 
poverty — almost to dementia — and after living a 
number of years on a pension from the Copper 
Queen Company, died at Bisbee. 

The modern development of the great Copper 
Queen mine may be said to have had its genesis in 
1880 with the arrival of Dr. James Douglas who 
had just come from the inspection of the United 
Verde. At that time Edward Riley, who had taken 
a bond on the mine, had disposed of it to a San 
Francisco firm of engineers, Martin and Ballard, 
who erected a small furnace and smeltered some 
ore. 

Upon recommendation of Doctor Douglas, the 
Phelps-Dodge Company purchased property ad- 
joining the Martin-Ballard-Riley claim at a cost of 
$40,000. It is said that both mines, seemingly, had 
about exhausted their paying ore, when a foreman, 
J. W. Howell, on his own initiative and against or- 
ders, started a drift which finally broke into a re- 
markably rich body of ore. 

Afterwards the Copper Queen acquired the 
Holbrook, Neptune and other properties which ul- 
timately became their most profitable holdings. 

Copper Queen ores average about six per cent 
copper. The present operating company (1918) 
employs 3,000 men and handles 2,500 tons of ore 
daily. Its great smelters, models of their kind, are 
located at Douglas. 



ARIZONA MINES AFTER CIVIL WAR 265 

Calumet and Arizona 

The Calumet and Arizona mines, which rank 
third in the state as dividend payers, are also in 
the Warren district. The original owner of the 
Irish Mag, which became the nucleus of the proper- 
ties of the company, was a queer, misanthropic 
character named James Daley, who lived in 
Mule Gulch, in the outskirts of Bisbee. In re- 
sisting arrest, Daley shot an officer and fled into 
Mexico. Afterwards a saloon keeper by the name 
of Andy Mehan produced a bill of sale of the mine 
to himself which bill of sale was attached by 
Cohan Brothers, merchants living in Tombstone. 
A second claimant for Daley's mine was Martin 
Costello, who acquired the title by buying the 
claim of a Mexican woman who said she was 
Daley's legal widow. A second wife and third 
claimant appeared on the scene from Leadville. 
The outcome of the litigation, which lasted for ten 
years, was that Costello got the mine, which he sold 
to the "C. & A." for over a half million of dollars. 

The mine is a deep one. At the 850-foot level 
small bunches of ore were found, and at the 1,050, 
a splendid body of copper-bearing rock was en- 
countered out of which over $10,000,000 was paid 
in dividends. 

A small smelter was built near Douglas, which 
was put in operation in November, 1902. Follow- 
ing a poUcy of expansion, development companies 
were formed, these being known as the Junction 
Development Company, the Pittsburg and Duluth 
Development Company, the Calumet and Pitts- 



266 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

burg Development Company, and the Lake Su- 
perior and Pittsburg Company, and in 1910 all 
were brought into the Calumet and Arizona Min- 
ing Company, giving the latter organization more 
than 2,000 acres of mineral land. One of the latest 
acquisitions of the Company, as noted elsewhere, 
is the New Cornelia property at Ajo. 

The Shattuck Arizona 

The Shattuck Arizona is a neighbor of the Cop- 
per Queen and the Calumet and Arizona, and 
though its output is given as only about 500 tons 
daily, it is ninth on the list of dividend producers. 
It is often called the "Biggest Little Mine," for 
while its surface area is small, it is big in every 
other way. 

Its cost of production for 1912 was given as 7.22 
cents on 13,000,000 pounds of copper. 

It is interesting to note that the Shattuck con- 
tains a larger variety of minerals and produces 
commercially more different minerals than any 
other mine in the State. Some of its ores have high 
values in gold and silver. 

A drift on the 300-foot level encountered a cave, 
wonderful in its beauty, with a stalactite-studded 
dome eighty feet high, about which hang coral- 
like deposits in many beautiful colors. 

The United Verde 

The United Verde, Senator W. A. Clark's great 
mine at Jerome, is perhaps the best known copper 
mine in the State. The earliest location in the 



AHIZONA MINES AFTER CIVIL WAR 267 

Black Hills section, where the mine is situated, is 
supposed to have been made, in 1877, by General 
Crook's famous scout, Al. W. Sieber, and called 
the Verde from the river, not far away. 

In 1877 the Verde mining district was organized. 
Among the owners of locations in the district a 
little later were Angus and John McKinnon, who 
were working the Wade Hampton. In 1882 they 
sold their claim to F. F. Thomas, who believing 
that a big mine lay within the steep hillsides, 
bonded the adjoining Eureka, the Hermit, the 
Azure and the Adventure Chromes, and took in 
George A. Treadwell, the mining expert, as a part- 
ner. The United Verde Copper Company was or- 
ganized in 1883 with Thomas as superintendent 
and general manager. A fifty ton smelter was 
built. 

While the smelting of the ores proved the mine 
to be wonderfully rich, not only in copper but in 
silver as well, reduction processes were primitive 
and transportation to the Atlantic and Pacific Rail- 
road at Ash Fork was so expensive that in 1884, 
when copper was worth about seven cents a pound, 
the mine was shut down. 

Governor F. A. Tritle secured a bond and lease 
on the property in 1887, but conditions did not im- 
prove enough to put the mine on a paying basis. 
Still, much rich ore was taken out and Governor 
Tritle was a lavish host to the many visitors who 
came to Jerome to inspect the mine. 

At the request of Governor Tritle, Prof. James 
Douglas, who afterwards was prominent in the 



268 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

development of the Bisbee mines, examined the 
United Verde properties, but finally reported that 
he thought the mine too far away from a railroad 
to be worked profitably. 

Soon after, Senator Clark visited the camp, 
bringing with him his mining experts, J. L. Giroux 
and John L. Thompson. As a result of their inves- 
tigations Clark purchased the mine, and under sci- 
entific development, turned it into one of the 
greatest paying properties in America. He built a 
narrow-gauge railroad from the Sante Fe Prescott 
and Phoenix to the mine in 1894, and in 1915 aban- 
doned the smelter which was located at Jerome, 
and now reduces all of the Company's ores at 
Clarkdale on the Verde, where at an expense of 
$3,000,000 there has been constructed a plant that 
is one of the most perfect of its kind in the world. 

The Old Dominion 

The first locations of record in the Globe dis- 
trict were the Globe and the Globe Ledge claims, 
which were made in 1873 by a group of prospectors 
from Florence. Their locations were made on a 
large iron and copper stained out-crop, which is 
now a part of the Old Dominion mine. The cop- 
per claims received but little attention for the first 
few years as, encouraged by such findings as the 
Silver King, prospectors were looking for rich gold 
and silver ores. 

The first mining camp to be established in the 
district was called Ramboz, after its founder, a 
miner by the name of Henry Ramboz. 



ARIZONA MINES AFTER CIVIL WAR 269 

On account of better location and water supply, 
in about 1876, a camp was located on Pinal Creek, 
near the Globe claims, which name was given to 
the settlement. 

Numerous mines in the vicinity that became 
famous for their rich silver ore include the McMil- 
len, the Mack Morris (sometimes spelled MacMor- 
ris), the Stonewall Jackson and others. Records 
of production are non-existent, yet the mines 
around the McMillen are estimated to have pro- 
duced about $750,000, of which $600,000 came from 
the Stonewall Jackson. The Mack Morris, which 
was located in the Richmond Basin, is credited 
with producing $650,000. 

Gradually, however, the claims of copper began 
to attract attention and, in 1881, the Old Dominion 
was mining carbonate and silicate copper ore on 
the Chicago and New York claims near Bloody 
Tanks, about a mile and one-half from the present 
town of Miami, and erected a thirty-ton furnace. 
The deposit was soon exhausted and the furnace 
was moved to the Globe, where the Globe Ledge 
and other claims were grouped under the name of 
the Old Dominion mines. 

In 1886, the high cost of operation and the low 
price of copper proved too great a handicap for 
the operators to overcome, and by the end of the 
year the mines closed down. The Old Dominion 
up to that time is reported to have produced 23,- 
000,000 pounds of copper besides some gold and 
silver. The company was reorganized in 1888 and 
again in 1895, when there was formed the Old Do- 



270 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

minion Copper Mining and Smelting Company, 
which is operating the property at the present day. 
The Old Dominion is fifth in the list of the 
State's largest dividend producers. It has 1,400 
men on its payroll and about 500 tons of ore are 
taken out daily. 

Miami Copper 

The Miami Copper Company's mines, eighth in 
the State's list of dividend producers, are situated 
at Miami, a short distance west and north of Globe, 
where low, red, iron-stained hills in the early '90s 
induced "Black Jack" Newman, Jim Falls, J. P. 
Gates and others to make location on the ground 
now owned by the Miami Copper Company. 

For a number of years but little consistent de- 
velopment work was done. In 1906 the owners of 
many claims grouped their locations and Fred Als- 
dorf and F. J. Elliott took an option on them, and 
soon afterwards had the location examined by J. 
Park Channing, consulting engineer of the General 
Development Company, a Lewisohn corporation, 
who was negotiating for the Inspiration claims. 
As a result, the General Development Company 
took over the Alsdorf-Elliott option and, in 1906, 
started development work. Three per cent ore was 
found for a total vertical depth of 490 feet, and 
by November, 1907, there were about a million tons 
of ore in sight. 

The Miami Copper Company was organized 
with a capital of $3,000,000 which was later in- 
creased to $4,000,000. The company's president is 



ARIZONA MINES AFTER CIVIL WAR 271 

Adolph Lewisohn. About one thousand men are 
employed. 

Arizona Copper 

The mines of the Arizona Copper Company, 
Ltd., are situated in the Clifton-Morenci district 
with the mill at Morenci and smelter in the out- 
skirts of Clifton. 

Among the earliest copper properties to be 
worked in the State were some in this district, al- 
though it lay right in the heart of the Apache coun- 
try, and every prospecting party entering it did so 
at infinite risk. 

Henry Clifton, whose name is now borne by the 
mining town, was the first prospector to enter the 
district and notice the promise of its copper indi- 
cations. At that time, however, the Apaches were 
so hostile that the discoveries were not followed 
up. In 1870, a party of 46 miners came over the 
mountains from Pinos Altos, New Mexico, found 
a little gold and two years later located the Ari- 
zona, Central, Yankie and Moctezuma. The same 
year the famous Longfellow, which developed into 
the first notably rich copper producer in the State, 
was located by Robert Metcalfe. 

By 1873 mining was actively prosecuted in the 
district, and the Leszynskys were operating an 
adobe smelter in the district below the Longfellow, 
and, although of crudest construction and using 
charcoal for fuel, it managed to work something 
like a ton of ore a day. 

To solve the problem of getting the ore from 



272 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

the Longfellow to the smelter at Clifton, the first 
railroad in the Territory was built. The track was 
twenty-inch gauge, and was operated by mule 
power until, in 1880, a four-ton locomotive, the 
Little Emma, was hauled into the district by 
freight wagons, put together and set down upon the 
toy track. Its duty was to haul the empty ore cars 
to the mine. On the return trip when the ore cars 
were full, gravity supplied the necessary motor 
power. 

At first the Apaches viewed the little train with 
something like awe, but later, with the contempt 
that familiarity is said to breed, tried to hold it 
up by a frontal attack as well as one from the 
flank. Dad Arbuckle, the engineer, pulled the 
throttle to the last notch, and the Little Emma gal- 
lantly leaped to battle. The engagement was brief 
and eminently satisfactory to Dad. After the 
Apaches that had been left intact had cleaned up 
the muss occasioned by those of their tribe that 
Little Emma had butted, they decided to eliminate 
frontal attacks from their book of strategy. 

The Leszynskys sold out in 1883 to a Scotch 
corporation, The Arizona Copper Company, Ltd., 
for $2,000,000. The new owners built a narrow 
gauge railroad from their mine at Clifton to 
Lordsburg on the Southern Pacific, and, in 1892, 
erected a leaching plant to handle certain types 
of the ore, which like all of the ore in the district 
averages only about three per cent copper. 

In order to operate with a profit, most efiBcient 
methods are used both in handling and treating 



AEIZONA MINES AFTER CIVIL WAR 273 

the ore. A daily output from the mine of 3,000 
tons requires a working force of but 1,600 men. 
Reverberatory furnaces are used in the company's 
present smelter, which was erected in 1914, at a 
cost of several million. 

Detroit Copper 

The Detroit Copper Company's mines, sixth in 
order in dividend production, are also located at 
Morenci. The company was incorporated in 1875, 
and in 1882 constructed a small smelter six miles 
from Morenci, on the San Francisco River. Two 
years later the smelter was moved to the mines. 
By 1893 the discovery had been made of the im- 
mense amount of low-grade ore within Copper 
Mountain, and the Phelps-Dodge organization, 
after making careful examination, became satis- 
fied with the financial possibilities of mining oper- 
ations in the district and, in 1895, bought up a con- 
trolling interest of the Detroit Copper Company 
stock. Fifteen hundred tons of ore is the mine's 
daily output, and thirteen hundred is the number 
of men on the company's payroll. 

The Shannon 

The Shannon mines, of the Shannon Copper 
Company, at Metcalf, are in the Clifton-Morenci 
neighborhood, and although they produce but 150 
tons of ore daily, with seventy-five men, rank tenth 
in the list of the State's great dividend producers. 

The company was organized in 1900, with a 
capitalization of $3,000,000. It has since produced 



274 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

in the neighborhood of 140,000,000 pounds of cop- 
per, of a value of more than $15,000,000, and has 
in sight as much more copper as has been taken 
out. Its property consists of about twenty claims 
located near the summit of Shannon Mountain, 
rising 1,200 feet about the bed of Chase Creek. 

These claims were grouped around the original 
Shannon claim which was one of the earliest 
claims in the district. 

At the Shannon mines is the Shannon incline, 
down which ore cars drop a distance of eight hun- 
dred feet in a horizontal distance of one thousand 
feet. Occasionally, a rash passenger goes down in 
the cars, when the sensation is much the same as 
if he took a tail dive in an aeroplane. 

The company has a model smelter below Clif- 
ton to which it carries its ores over its own railroad 
line. 

Ray Consolidated 

While the Ray Consolidated is eleventh on the 
State's list of dividend producers, the daily output 
of ore from its mines is greater than any of its 
rivals, amounting to 9,000 tons a day. 

The property is located on Mineral Creek in 
Pinal County, so named by Lieut. W. Emory 
who was with General Kearny's dragoons on their 
passage to California in 1846. 

Although Emory's report gave enthusiastic pre- 
dictions concerning the noticeable copper crop- 
pings at the mouth of the stream, no locations 
were made in the district until about 1874. Three 



ARIZONA MINES AFTER CIVIL WAR 275 

years later the Mineral Creek Mining district had 
been formed and was favorably known, not for 
copper however, but as the location of several 
promising silver claims. 

In 1883, a thirty-ton furnace was treating ore 
from the Ray, Scorpion and Bilk mines. Soon 
after that the Ray Copper Company, which was or- 
ganized in 1882, erected a small concentrating mill 
and remodeled its furnace. 

The company, in 1898, sold its holdings to a 
syndicate of Englishmen whose principal was 
James Gordon. The Ray Copper Company, Ltd., 
was organized by them and a mill was built at 
what is now Kelvin, where Mineral Creek empties 
into the Gila, and a railroad was constructed from 
there to the mine. 

It would seem that the investment did not prove 
a profitable one and the property passed into the 
hands of the Guggenheimer organization in 1908. 
Under the efficient administration of D. C. Jack- 
ling, the present vice-president and manager, the 
ore is now being handled in the most approved 
scientific manner, and the property is on a sound 
financial basis. 

The Ray Mill was erected at Hayden in 1910, 
and in 1912 the company built, on adjoining 
ground, one of the greatest smelters in the State, 
equipped with reverberatory furnaces. 

With its immense deposit of low grade ore, es- 
timated the third largest in the United States, its 
future may be said to be more like that of a manu- 
facturing problem than the usual mine. It is sim- 



276 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

ply a question of manufacturing the ore now 
blocked out into copper. The company is work- 
ing about 2,100 men. 

Inspiration 

Though not among the present "Big Eleven" 
dividend producers, The Inspiration Consolidated 
Copper Company mine is among the notable prop- 
erties of the State. In the first place it has the 
privilege of paying taxes on the greatest assessed 
value (over $74,000,000) of any of Arizona's mines; 
and secondly, what probably pleases its stockhold- 
ers more, it is said that in capacity of mill and 
mine operation, it leads the State. 

To put it on its present standing of efficiency 
$15,000,000 was spent in development work and in 
creating the various plants required for its success- 
ful operation. 

The ore varies in width in Inspiration ground 
from 200 to 1,600 feet, with an average vertical 
dimension approximating 150 feet. 

The daily average amount of ore ground at the 
Marcey Mill is 475 tons, and the company employs 
about 625 men. 

Ajo Mines 

It is interesting to note that the old Ajo mines, 
the first copper properties to be worked within the 
State, and for a generation practically lying idle, 
have been reborn by modern scientific methods, 
and now, held by a subsidiary company under the 
Calumet and Arizona, are considered among the 
big coming properties in the State. 



AEIZONA MINES AFTER CIVIL WAR 277 

The presence of a large body of low grade cop- 
per ore has, for many years, been known to exist 
at Ajo, but it was thought that the grade was so 
low, less than two per cent, that it would not pay 
to work it. 

However, under Maj. John C. Greenway, the 
manager of the Calumet and Arizona Mining Com- 
pany, in 1915, a long series of experiments were 
carried on until a process had been satisfactorily 
developed, complete in every detail. 

The process was finally decided upon January 
10, 1916, the ground broken February 1, 1917, and a 
5,000-ton plant for handling the ore completed 
May, 1917. 

To the New Cornelia, the original purchase of 
the Calumet and Arizona, in August of 1917 was 
added the ground of the Ajo Consolidated Copper 
Company — 1,150 acres. 

With the ore now developed in the New Cor- 
nelia and these new lands there are about 65,000,- 
000 tons of ore in sight. 

Announcement that the New Cornelia will erect 
a 5,000-ton flotation plant and a 2,000-ton smelter 
at Ajo is said to have been made by the C. & A. 
management. 

While the principal metals found in Arizona 
are copper, silver, gold, lead and zinc, most of the 
other rarer metals also are found. The ores of 
molybdenum, namely molybdenite and wulfenite, 
are found in many places in Arizona. Molybdenite 
is found in Gila County in disseminated ores at 
Miami; in Greenlee County in the copper ores of 



278 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

the Clifton-Morenci district; in Pinal County in 
ores at Ray and Kelvin as original mineral. It is 
also found in Pima and Santa Cruz counties. 
Wulfenite is nearly always present in silver ores 
at Tombstone; it is also found in Cochise, Gila 
and Pima, Pinal, Yavapai and Yuma counties. 
Molybdenite, used extensively in the manufacture 
of exceedingly hard steels, is peculiarly adapted 
for armor plate. When a regular supply can be 
guaranteed to steel manufacturers, there is no 
doubt of a steady market for Arizona's ample sup- 
ply of molybdenite. 

Vanadium is well scattered throughout the 
State, principally as the ore, vanadinite. It is found 
in Cochise County, near Fairbanks; in Gila County 
in the Globe district; in Pima County 14 miles 
northwest of Tucson, and in several places in Pinal 
and Yavapai counties. Tungsten is also found in 
many parts of Arizona, including Pima, Santa 
Cruz, Cochise, Maricopa, Mojave and Yavapai 
counties. Manganese is also found in many places 
in the State. Mercury is found in Maricopa, 
Yavapai and Gila counties. 

Building materials of a varied character are 
found within the State, including cement rock, 
lime, gypsum, marble and slate. 

Arizona promises future development in as- 
bestos, mica, celestite and strongionite which are 
used for fireworks, barites, clays and other prod- 
ucts. 

According to the Directory of Operating Mines, 
compiled by Charles F. Willis, director of the Bu- 



ARIZONA MINES AFTER CIVIL WAR 279 

reau of Mines, University of Arizona, 1915-16, there 
were then being actively worked within the state, 
mines as follows: Copper, 65; gold, 25; gold and 
silver, 8; silver, 3; lead with gold and silver, 4; 
lead with silver, 2; lead with zinc, 5; zinc, 1; tung- 
sten, 3; cinnabar, 1. In addition to this it must be 
remembered that most of the mines listed as cop- 
per also carry gold and silver, and that many new 
mines have been put in operation since the direc- 
tory was compiled. 

Zinc is now fifth or sixth on the list of metals 
produced in the State, but is quite likely to become 
second only to copper in importance owing to the 
exceedingly large deposits of zinc carbonates 
which have recently been discovered. 

In general it may be said that Arizona miners 
receive in wages every year over $50,000,000. The 
eleven big copper companies paid in dividends in 
1916 (estimated) $35,000,000. 

The total production of gold, silver and copper 
in Arizona for 1916-1917 is as follows : 1916, gold, 
$4,092,800; silver, 6,680,252 fine ounces; copper, 
692,630,286 pounds. In 1917, gold, $5,533,800; sil- 
ver, 8,183,205 ounces; copper, 692,923,722 pounds. 

In money the total valuation of all mineral pro- 
duction in Arizona in 1916 was about $205,000,000, 
and in 1917, in spite of labor difficulties and the 
fixation of the price of some minerals, it rose to 
about $225,000,000. The assessed valuation on Ari- 
zona mines, mills and smelters for 1918 aggregated 
over $421,000,000. 

In speaking of the probable prospects for the 



280 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

year 1918, G. M. Butler, acting director of the Ari- 
zona State Bureau of Mines, says: 

"It is rather early in the year to attempt to 
prophesy anything as to the production for 1918. 
So many unforeseen factors enter into the matter 
that at best it can be nothing but a rough guess. 
The Government's refusal to raise the price of cop- 
per has done much to discourage small producers, 
many of whom were working at a loss in hope that 
the Government would do something to alleviate 
their difficulties. Doubtless a considerable num- 
ber of these will be forced to stop work. The 
low price of copper also prevents the larger mining 
companies from doing much needed development 
work, and that is bound to have an unfortunate 
effect upon their production, which will become 
more and more evident as time goes on. The mar- 
ket for tungsten, molybdenum, and other relatively 
rare metals used in ferro-alloys is in a very un- 
stable condition at present, and offers little incen- 
tive to producers of these metals. Whether any 
change may be expected in the near future it is 
now impossible to say. 

"On the other hand labor troubles considerably 
curtailed the possible production of Arizona mines 
last year, and, if this year can be passed through 
without a repetition of these difficulties, this factor 
may counterbalance the detrimental ones already 
cited. Taking everything into consideration, I be- 
lieve that our production this year will be about 
equal to that of last year unless difficulties now 
unforeseen arise; and there seems little doubt that 



ARIZONA MINES AFTER CIVIL WAR 281 

Arizona will retain her place as the first mineral 
state in the Union." 

COAL 

Although no coal has ever been mined com- 
mercially in Arizona it has been known for a num- 
ber of years that two fields exist within the 
boundaries of the state. The Deer Creek fields lie 
on the south side of the Gila River just east of 
Dudleyville and about eighty-five miles northeast 
of Tucson. The field extends ten or twelve miles 
in an east and west direction and has a known 
breadth of three to four miles. 

In a report published by the State Bureau of 
Mines it is stated that "The beds are thin, varying 
in thickness from twenty-four to thirty inches 
within the workable limits of the seam. Tonnage 
based on thirty square miles and twenty-four 
inches with fifty per cent available is 30,050,000 
tons. The coal is fairly well disposed for mining 
except in regions of local disturbance." Part of 
the deposit is hard, black coal, adaptable to trans- 
portation, commercial use and coke, the second 
quality is only valuable for gas manufacture. 

The Black Mesa coal field is largely within the 
Hopi Indian Reservation, lying west of the Chinlee 
Valley and north of the Hopi village of Walpai. 
The deposit is of considerable tonnage and of 
quality equal to Gallup, New Mexico, coal. The 
best exposure of the bed at present is fourteen 
miles southeast of Tuba where coal is taken to 



282 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

supply the Indian school. A seven-foot stratum of 
coal is here found ten feet below the surface. 

Coal is also found near Pinedale in Navajo 
County. 

THE DIAMOND HOAX 

Perhaps the greatest mining hoax that ever was 
perpetrated in Arizona was the alleged discovery 
in 1872 of a diamond field in the northeastern 
part of the Territory. Two men by the names of 
Arnold and Slack were supposed to be the dis- 
coverers, and magnificent-looking rough diamonds 
and rough rubies, which it is said they had picked 
up in the Arizona field, were exhibited in San 
Francisco. A company with a capital of ten mil- 
lion dollars was organized in San Francisco and 
the list of stockholders included a number of large 
mining investors. The fraud was exposed by Clar- 
ence King, United States Geologist, who showed 
that the stones exhibited were from Africa and 
Brazil, and upon visiting the Arizona fields, saw at 
once that it was not diamond-bearing country. 

A second fake diamond field was located near 
the mouth of the Gila. 

ARIZONA'S LOST MINES 

Ever since the Americans first came to Arizona 
there have been current stories of "Lost Mines." 
The earliest of these stories were usually of mines 
belonging to the Jesuit padres and were supposed 
to be worked by Indians whom the friars enslaved. 



AEIZONA MINES AFTER CIVIL WAR 283 

the poor natives toiling long hours in the bowels 
of the earth, and when not working, fastened by 
chains to the walls of rocky caverns to keep them 
from running away. These mines, of course, were 
fabulously rich, chunks of gold as big as one's fist 
and masses of silver weighing thousands of pounds 
being as common as cobblestones in a river bottom, 
and all, according to these stories, were covered up 
at the time of the uprising of the Pima Indians in 
1751 and their locations lost with the expulsion of 
the Jesuits by the Spanish rulers in 1767. 

This is pure fiction as there is no evidence what- 
ever to support the persistent tradition that the 
Jesuits owned mines in Arizona. As we have seen 
elsewhere, mining was carried on to a limited 
extent during the years they did missionary work 
in Arizona as we learn from extracts from Padre 
Kino's report, "Even in sight of these new missions 
some good mining camps of very rich silver ore 
are being established." However, the Jesuits were 
striving to save the souls of Indians, not to profit in 
a material way by their labor. 

After the Jesuit stories of lost mines grew stale, 
more modern ones took their places in after sup- 
per talks of prospectors as they sat about their 
fires under the Arizona stars, with distant yelping 
of coyotes for orchestral accompaniment. One of 
the most interesting of these stories, and one that 
undoubtedly had a foundation of fact, was that 
concerning the "Lost Soldier Mine." 

In 1869, Abner McKeever and his wife were 
killed by Apaches near the big bend in the Gila 



284 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

River and his daughter Belle was taken prisoner. 
As soon as word reached the nearest military post, 
several small parties of mounted soldiers were 
started on the trail. One of these detachments was 
composed of Sergeant Crossthwaite, Privates Joe 
Wormley and Eugene Flannigan, who journeyed 
across the hot, forbidding desert to the north of 
the river. 

Becoming confused in their bearings, the three 
wandered among the cacti and creosote bushes 
until two of the horses fell exhausted. With death 
from thirst staring them in the face, the soldiers, 
taking some of the horse flesh with them, pushed 
ahead hoping soon to find water. 

That same night, in following up an arroyo in 
some low, broken mountains they came upon a 
spring just in time to save their lives. After they 
had assuaged their burning thirst they fell into an 
exhausted sleep. When they awoke in the morning, 
so the story goes, they found nuggets of pure gold 
in the bottom of the spring, and all about were 
scattered lumps of gold-bearing quartz, besides 
two quartz veins on the canyon wall above the 
spring, which were so impregnated with gold the 
men dug grains of the yellow metal out with their 
knives. 

They loaded fifty pounds of the quartz on their 
remaining horse and started back for the Gila 
River. En route, overcome by thirst and heat, 
Crossthwaite and the horse died and Flannigan, a 
little later, wholly spent, crawled under a stunted 
mesquite to die. Wormley, the hardiest of the 



AEIZONA MINES AFTER CIVIL WAR 285 

three, finally reached the river delirious and all 
but dead. 

Later, a rescuing party reached Flannigan in 
time to save his life, then found the horse and 
brought in the quartz from which $1800 in gold was 
obtained. 

Wormley and Flannigan made many attempts 
to retrace their steps but without success. They 
never found the lost mine, and though for years 
afterwards prospectors scoured the country, the 
desert still holds its mystery. 

The "Lost Dutchman Mine" derived its name 
from a German who, from time to time, used to 
visit Wickenburg to buy supplies. Always he had 
his burros laden with quartz so rich in gold that it 
drove the inhabitants of the town half mad with 
covetousness and wholly mad with exasperation 
when they were unable to get even the remotest 
hint from the taciturn prospector as to where his 
mine lay. 

Many attempts were made to both follow and 
track him, but slipping away at night with the feet 
of his burros tied in gunny sacks, he always suc- 
ceeded in eluding his pursuers. One time he failed 
to come back and the desert hid another story in 
its grim bosom. 

In the '60s, an Indian brought to Arizona City 
a lump of gold as big as the palm of his hand and 
traded it for beads and booze, boasting largely that 
he knew where he could get plenty more when that 
was gone. 

Bribes, coaxing nor threats could not induce 



286 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

him to tell the location of his Golconda; he said 
that nobody must know but himself. When he 
disappeared one day, "The Lone Indian Mine" was 
added to the mysteries and legends of the desert 
sands. 

Then there is the story that tells of one of the 
old, nomadic, War Department camels leading a 
man to a desert "tank" or declivity in a rock which 
collected water in the rainy season. Here, so the 
story ran, there was even more gold scattered about 
than at the Lost Soldier Mine. 

Another story, located in Yavapai County, tells 
of a ledge known to the Yavapai Indians where 
they used to dig the yellow metal out of the rocks 
and make rifle bullets from it. This likely was 
inspired by Felix Aubrey's story of the Indian who 
shot a rabbit with a gold bullet. 



Chapter XIX 

LABOR 

MOST of the antagonism between capital and 
labor in Arizona, to express itself in terms 
of actual conflict, has occurred in the vari- 
ous big copper camps, as, with certain conspicuous 
exceptions, mining operators are about the only 
people in the State employing large bodies of men 
continually. 

As, year by year, the copper mining activities 
grew in magnitude, the close relationship between 
employer and employee that obtained in the early 
days disappeared, and on one side there developed 
the absent owner, largely out of touch with the 
individual employee, and, on the other side the 
laborers who took to looking upon the company 
employing them, even though the wages paid were 
not unfair nor the hours unduly long, as a soulless 
body that was fattening itself unjustly by reason 
of their toil. 

The great rock upon which the two sides split 
was the question of recognition of the labor unions. 
The operators said they would be glad to treat with 
employees as individuals, but not as a unit through 
the labor agent of an organization. The laborers 
maintained that only as a union were they able to 
resist exploitation by employers, and that the 

287 



288 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

operators must treat with them as an organized 
body, or, in self-defense they would be compelled 
to resort to retaliatory measures. 

Their points of view steadily grew more unrec- 
oncilable, and the feeling between the employers 
and the men became so bitter that, as Charles F. 
Willis, Director of Arizona's State Bureau of 
Mines, wrote, "It is no secret that it has been be- 
lieved that an industrial war, a war of capital and 
labor, was coming." 

In June, 1903, there were labor troubles in al- 
most every large copper camp in the State. In the 
Clif ton-Morenci district the trouble grew so serious 
that Acting Governor Stoddard ordered out the 
National Guard to preserve order. The soldiers 
were sent on under the command of Col. James H. 
McClintock and were reinforced by a small detach- 
ment of Arizona Rangers. A day or two after they 
reached the mines five troops of U. S. dismounted 
cavalry arrived from Forts Grant and Huachuca. 
The differences between company and strikers 
were temporarily patched up, but no real ad- 
vance was made towards a permanent peace. 

An even more grave labor situation developed 
in October, 1915, when, the miners insisting upon 
higher wages and union recognition, there were 
strikes in the camps at Clifton, Morenci and Met- 
calf. About five thousand miners and workmen, 
largely Mexicans, were involved, and disturbances 
of the peace grew so serious that the local police 
officers did not seem able to cope with the situa- 
tion, and the National Guard was finally sent in. 



LABOR 289 

Fearing bodily violence, the managers of the Ari- 
zona, Detroit and Shannon mining companies left 
Clifton, and many non-union workers, who would 
have persisted at work, either were victims of 
serious personal injury or were run out of town 
to the desert to shift for themselves. A camp was 
organized at Duncan, about thirty miles to the 
southeast of Clifton, where the refugees were cared 
for by the mine owners. In December, protected 
by United States deputy marshals, the owners sent 
about five hundred men into Morenci to do neces- 
sary assessment work on unpatented claims. 

With labor still uneasy, in 1916 again there was 
trouble at the various camps, and, in the spring 
of 1917, it is said that in Jerome less than a hun- 
dred members of the Industrial Workers of the 
World induced a strike in a camp of six thousand 
men. Afterwards the agitators were deported by 
a delegation of citizens and the camp resumed its 
normal activities. Strikes were also precipitated 
at A jo, Humbolt, Clifton and Morenci. 

In July, 1917, a strike that threatened to be the 
most serious of all was called at Globe and Miami, 
both by the I. W. W. and the Miners' Union. There 
was also a strike in the Warren District, the home 
of the Copper Queen and the Calument and Ari- 
zona, in which members of the I. W. W. were 
prominent and unruly figures. The feeling against 
the I. W. W. and their sympathizers grew so pro- 
nounced, not only on account of violence and 
threats against all they termed the "bourgeoisie" 
but also for seditious and disloyal utterances 



290 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

against the Government of the United States 
alleged to have been made by them, that on July 
12th the sheriff of the county, Harry Wheeler, 
with a large armed force of men, presumingly 
acting as his deputies, rounded up 1,186 of these 
men, put them aboard a train and carried them 
to Columbus, New Mexico. "The authorities at 
Columbus," to quote from the report of the Presi- 
dent's Mediation Committee, "refused to permit 
those in charge of the deportation to leave the 
men there, and the train carried them back to 
the desert town of Hermanas, New Mexico, a 
nearby station. The deportees were wholly with- 
out adequate supply of food and water and shelter 
for two days. At Hermanas the deported men 
were abandoned by the guards who had brought 
them, and they were left to shift for themselves. 
The situation was brought to the attention of the 
War Department, and on July 14 the deportees 
were escorted by troops to Columbus, New Mexico, 
where they were maintained by the Government 
until the middle of September." 

For sometime afterwards the deported men 
and other members of the I. W. W. and their 
sympathizers were refused admittance into the 
district by armed guards, and a citizens' "com- 
mittee" continued to deport men they considered 
"undesirables." 

In the various troubles of 1917 throughout the 
state, the operators were ready to accuse strike 
agitators, many of whom were foreign born, not 
only of being professional trouble makers, but of 



LABOR 291 

being positively disloyal to the Government, and 
attacks upon the nation made by soap-box orators 
among the strikers, and the action of the Globe 
Miners' Union in voting down a motion to raise 
the American flag over their union hall seemed 
to substantiate their accusations. On the other 
hand, the miners accused the owners and operators 
of being profiteers, and of being as overbearing 
in their dealings with their men as a Prussian 
officer might be, and they quoted from the report' 
of the President's Mediation Commission: "Too 
often there is a glaring inconsistency between our 
democratic purposes in this war abroad and the 
autocratic conduct of some of those guiding in- 
dustry at home. This inconsistency is emphasized 
by such episodes as the Bisbee deportation." 

Certainly the President's committee did not 
feel that labor, as a class, was disloyal, for it 
states, "Labor, at heart, is as devoted to the pur- 
poses of the Government in the prosecution of this 
war as any other part of society. If labor's en- 
thusiasm is less vocal, and its feelings here and 
there tepid, we will find the explanation in some 
of the conditions of the industrial environment in 
which labor is placed and which, in many in- 
stances, is its nearest contact with the activities 
of the war." 

The opinion in which the I. W. W. is held by/ 
Arizona in general may be inferred from a resolu-j 
tion that was introduced at the first special session' 
of the Third Legislature by Mrs. Pauline M. O'Neill, 
which said in part: 



292 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

"That this Legislature, in special war session 
assembled, calls upon every official, from the 
highest to the lowest, to place Arizona in the lead 
in this nation in patriotism by denouncing the I. 
W. W.'s and all its works, and to pledge himself 
to do everything within his power to rid the state 
of an organization which is a menace to our Gov- 
ernment and a stain upon the fair name of our 
state and our nation, and an insult to the beloved 
flag of our grand and glorious country." Thirty- 
one representatives voted for the resolution and 
none against it. 

Soon after the deportation, Hon. John McBride, 
federal mediator from the Department of Labor, 
was sent to Arizona, where he was joined by Gov. 
George W. P. Hunt, who had been specially desig- 
nated as mediator and conciUator. Later, as rec- 
ommended by Governor Hunt, the President 
named a special mediation committee, which was 
headed by W. B. Wilson, Secretary of Labor, with 
Felix Frankfurter as secretary and counsel. This 
committee made a careful investigation of the 
Bisbee deportation and other labor troubles in 
the West. Among its recommendations were "the 
elimination to the utmost practical extent of all 
profiteering during the period of the war as a pre- 
requisite of the best morale in industry. Modern, 
large-scale industry has effectually destroyed the 
personal relation between employer and em- 
ployee — the knowledge and co-operation that come 
from personal contact. It is therefore no longer 
possible to conduct industry by dealing with em- 



LABOR 293 

ployees as individuals. Some form of collective 
relationship between management and men is in- 
dispensable. The recognition of this principle by 
the Government should form an accepted part of 
the labor policy of the nation. 

"Law in business, as elsewhere, depends for 
its vitality upon steady enforcement. Instead of 
waiting for adjustment after grievances come to 
the surface, there is needed the establishment of 
continuous administrative machinery for the 
orderly disposition of industrial issues and the 
avoidance of an atmosphere of contention and the 
waste of disturbances." 

As a result of the work of the mediation com- 
mittee, "channels of communication between 
management and men were created through griev- 
ance committees, free from all possible company 
influences." 

At the time of this writing, December, 1918, all 
of the copper camps are actively at work and, it 
is estimated, will produce during the year 819,- 
000,000 pounds of copper, and while the labor 
question cannot in any sense be said to be settled, 
it is to be hoped that under the supervision the 
National Government is taking in the matter, not 
only will immediate difficulties be avoided, but 
the whole matter put on a more logical and just 
basis to both the employer and the employee. 

On May 15, 1918, federal warrants for the arrest 
of twenty-five prominent citizens of the Warren 
District for alleged participation in the deportation 
were issued on indictments found in the United 



294 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

States District Court at Tucson. This list includes 
Walter Douglas, president of the Phelps-Dodge 
Corporation, whose home is New York, but who 
was in Bisbee on the day of the trouble, and 
Sheriff Wheeler, who after the deportation went 
as a captain with the American Expeditionary 
Force to France. 

On December 2nd, however. Judge William 
Morrow, in the Federal Court at Tucson, sustained 
a demurrer of the defendants, ruling that the acts 
charged did not constitute an offence under federal 
law, thus relieving them of their indictments. In 
his decision Judge Morrow criticised the deported 
men for not submitting their character and con- 
duct in the state courts to the community where 
they resided, suggesting that if any law was vio- 
lated it was the state law against kidnapping. 

A happening not unconnected with labor 
troubles in Arizona occurred in the Federal Court 
at Chicago, where, on August 30, 1918, ninety-five 
members of the I. W. W., who previously had been 
found guilty of anti-war conspiracies against the 
United States, were sentenced by Judge K. M. 
Landis to terms in prison ranging from one year 
and one day to twenty years, and with fines from 
$5,000 to $20,000. Five of these men were residents 
of Arizona, and others of those convicted were 
more or less prominently connected with Arizona 
labor troubles. It was Grover H. Perry, of Utah, 
one of the convicted ninety-five, who was quoted 
as saying to Governor Campbell, "The Govern- 
ment needs copper, and if we don't get what we 



LABOR 295 

want we'll see that the Government gets no 
copper. . . ." 

In general it may be said that in no other state 
have the needs and claims of labor received more 
serious consideration than in Arizona. Wages are 
uniformly good and conditions under which men 
work, on the whole, excellent. In the agricultural 
districts of the Salt and Yuma valleys most of the 
cotton picking is done by Mexicans and Indians. 
The rest of the farm labor is usually performed by 
Mexicans or native Americans, the latter pre- 
dominating. 



Chaptee XX 
TILLING THE SOIL 

THIS chapter is about the practice of agricul- 
ture in Arizona. As a boy we remember 
a book in which our Aunt Mary used to press 
flowers — a report of the Department of Agricul- 
ture for 1876. Aside from its interest as a flower 
press, the book, with its scientific names and 
dreary details, was the dullest affair we ever 
looked into. Keeping this in mind we shall en- 
deavor to be temperate in statistics and abstemious 
in technicalities. 

However dull as farming may be to read about, 
there was nothing humdrum in its practice in 
Arizona pioneer days. Take Pete Kitchen, who 
had a ranch in the Santa Cruz Valley near Nogales. 
The walls of his adobe house were higher than 
the roof, with convenient holes in the sides to 
shoot through. Day and night, sentries were posted 
here to watch for Apaches. Every man or boy 
on the place not only carried a gun continually 
about his duties, but knew how to use it. Every 
plow that went into the field had a rifle lashed to 
it; every wagon that went to Tucson with produce 
was accompanied by a mounted guard. In con- 
sequence, while the Apaches murdered most of 
his neighbors, Pete continued to do business at 

296 



TILLING THE SOIL 297 

the old stand, raising, for example, in 1872, twenty 
acres of potatoes and curing 14,000 pounds of 
bacon. 

Jasper Pennington also farmed on the Santa 
Cruz in the early '70s. The Apaches stole his 
cattle, burned his corrals and devastated his fields, 
still Joe persisted in the quiet paths of agriculture 
for many years, planting his crops in the dark of 
the moon and harvesting them with a rabbit's foot 
in one pocket and a six-shooter in another, while 
his daughter Lucera stood guard with a Win- 
chester. 

In the late '60s two citizens of Prescott raised 
a crop of corn on the Verde. As the corn neared 
maturity the partners noticed that the roasting 
ears were disappearing between sunset and sun- 
rise, and an examination of the soil between rows 
showed the prints of moccasined feet. 

The partners sat up the next night — guns in 
hand. At midnight there were heard soft rustlings 
among the corn. With one accord the partners 
opened fire. The next morning they found a fat, 
Tonto squaw dead in the field. They promptly 
hung her up for a scarecrow and the depredations 
ceased. Be not shocked; those were rugged times. 
If the Apaches had caught the partners in theft 
they would probably have skinned them alive. 

As early as 1865 settlers began to locate in 
many of the fertile spots about the Prescott Basin, 
including the Williamson, Verde, Walnut Grove, 
Kirkland, Peoples' and Skull valleys. Corn and 
barley were planted by farmers, who risked the 



298 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

peril of hostile Indians in the hope of finding a 
profitable market for their crops at Camps Verde 
and Whipple. However, we read that though army 
quartermasters were paying twenty cents a pound 
for barley and corn from California, they would 
offer the local farmers but ten cents. Charges of 
crookedness on the part of army officials were 
freely made, but with no change in the situation. 
Nevertheless, even at ten cents a pound, one may 
raise corn at a profit, and plantings were slowly 
increased. 

A mining camp is nearly always a good market. 
In 1876, in the vicinity of Globe, the Indians cut 
dried, native grass for hay, which they brought to 
market on their shoulders, selling it for a cent a 
pound. Cattle and sheep had also been brought 
into the country by this time, and butter and milk 
were obtainable at different mountain settlements, 
and beef and mutton were sold at reasonable 
prices. 

In the Salt River Valley, agriculture had its 
beginnings in 1866, when John Y. T. Smith cut 
wild hay which grew along the banks of Salt 
River and established a hay camp four miles up 
from the site of the present city of Phoenix. 

Before proceeding further we may say that, in 
general, the controlling factor of successful agri- 
culture in Arizona is not so much the fertility of 
the soil as water supply. Only in the highlands 
of Arizona, where the altitude is well above a mile, 
is the rainfall sufficient to produce a crop without 
irrigation, and even in such places as about Pres- 



TILLING THE SOIL 299 

cott, much better returns are secured when irriga- 
tion water can supplement the rainfall. Where 
suitable land can be found at an altitude as high 
as seven thousand feet, as in the case in the vicinity 
of Flagstaff, such crops as potatoes and some 
grains do very well with rainfall alone. 

Work on the first irrigation ditch to be built 
by Americans in the Salt River Valley was begun, 
in 1867, by the versatile Jack Swilling, who came 
down from Wickenburg for that purpose, accom- 
panied by "Lord" Barrel Duppa, Pump-handle 
John, One-eyed Davis, Lawsen and others. 

The first location chosen for the intake was on 
the north bank of the Salt River, nearly opposite 
the present town of Tempe, but on account of 
adverse conditions encountered at that site, the 
work was abandoned in favor of a new location 
five miles further down stream, where J. Y. T. 
Smith had his hay camp. 

Further irrigation canals to be built in the 
valley included the Maricopa Canal, built in '68, 
the Tempe and Wormser in 71, the Utah in 77, 
the Mesa and Grand in 78, and the Arizona in '85. 
Later the canals on the north side of Salt River 
were consolidated and improved under the man- 
agement of the Arizona Improvement Company, 
whose controlling head was W. J. Murphy. On 
the south side of the river a syndicate headed by 
Dr. A. J. Chandler built the Consolidated Canal, 
which, by taking water from the river at a higher 
level and distributing it to the Mesa and other 
canals lower down, was able to make a decided 



300 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

saving of water by decreasing evaporation and 
seepage. A considerable amount of water power 
was developed on both sides of the river at drops 
on the various canals. 

The Roosevelt Reservoir 

In Arizona the volume of water in its rivers 
fluctuates greatly. When the spring rains melt the 
mountain snows, such rivers as the Salt and Gila 
become mighty torrents; during times of drought 
they are but small streams, and, on the Gila espe- 
cially, at places disappear in the sand. For this 
reason the need of reservoirs on these and similar 
rivers throughout the West, which would impound 
water at time of flood and distribute it to the 
land as desired, became evident to officials and 
lawmakers at Washington as well as to the 
settlers. 

In Phoenix, in 1889, a committee of water users, 
headed by William Christy, labored for months 
to develop something that would aid the situation. 
It was expected that Senator W. M. Stewart, of 
Nevada, heading a sub-committee on irrigation 
which was looking for favorable sites for reser- 
voirs, might visit Arizona. In consequence, fol- 
lowing a suggestion made by the Phoenix Chamber 
of Commerce, the Maricopa County Board of 
Supervisors delegated County Surveyor W. M. 
Breckenridge to look for sites on the Salt and 
Verde rivers. Accompanied by John R. Norton 
and James H. McClintock, Breckenridge inspected 



TILLING THE SOIL 301 

a number of locations, by far the most desirable 
one being a site at the confluence of Tonto Creek 
and Salt River, just below which the river passed 
through a narrow gorge. 

A promoter by the name of Wells Hendershott 
had made a location of this dam site and after- 
wards passed the title of it on to Man & Man, a 
firm of New York attorneys, and Sims Ely. 

The Reclamation Service, appreciating that the 
Tonto site was the one perfect location for a 
reservoir on Salt River to supply the Salt River 
Valley with water, secured to the Government the 
Hendershott-Man-Ely claims for $40,000. 

Acting under authority of the Legislature, in 
1900, Chief Justice Webster Street appointed a 
water storage commission, composed of J. T. Priest, 
W. D. Fulwiler, Dwight B. Heard, Charles Gold- 
man and Jed Peterson, who also reported favor- 
ably on the Tonto site. 

This was all very well so far as it went, but the 
excellence of the site availed but little without 
money to build a dam — and where was the money 
to come from? 

What followed is like the story of Aladdin and 
the Wonderful Lamp. In making a cast of char- 
acters we are of the opinion that by reason of his 
persistent and untiring lamp-rubbing, B. A. Fowler, 
a Glendale rancher, a man of notable executive 
ability, whose tact in handling men seemed limit- 
less and whose patience was all but inexhaust- 
ible, should certainly be given the part of Aladdin. 
As for the genii — Arthur P. Davis and F. H. Newell, 



302 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

of the Reclamation Service; George H. Maxwell, 
executive chairman of the National Irrigation Con- 
gress; Joseph H. Kibbey, counsel of the Water 
Users' Association that was to be organized; 
Project Engineer L. C. Hill; William Christy, 
banker and farmer; W. D. Fulwiler, canal official 
and water expert; and neither last nor least, Theo- 
dore Roosevelt, who knew the West and its needs 
and urged the passage of a reclamation act in his 
first message to Congress — all have prominent 
parts in the working of this mighty miracle — they 
were the genii of the lamp! 

In 1901, aided by George H. Maxwell, the irri- 
gators of the Salt River Valley selected a com- 
mittee to see what could be done towards securing 
the reservoir, making B. A. Fowler chairman. 

A national appropriation of $10,000 had been 
made by Congress to aid in preliminary work, to 
which sum was added $30,000 more by an act of 
the state legislature, which empowered Maricopa 
County to make a tax levy for that amount. 

The next step toward the desired goal was 
taken when a reclamation act that provided that 
the proceeds of sale of state lands in certain west- 
ern commonwealths should be used in building 
reclamation works was signed, June 17, 1902, by 
President Roosevelt. 

In order to make available the benefits of this 
act to their needs, it was necessary for the irriga- 
tors of the Salt River Valley to form themselves 
into an association which could act as a unit with 
the reclamation officials. After much hard work 



TILLING THE SOIL 303 

on the part of Chairman B. A. Fowler and his 
associates, the people of the Salt River Valley, 
dissolving many conflicting interests, formed such 
a body, which was called the Salt River Valley 
Waters Users' Association, with B. A. Fowler as 
president, and Judge Jos. H. Kibbey, counsel. 

One reason why the Salt River Valley was 
among the first localities to receive benefits from 
the reclamation act was that it not only had an 
irrigation system already worked out, but also its 
people could give a definite report on exactly what 
the proposed reservoir would accomplish. 

Credit for this must be given Arthur P. Davis, 
who, when hydrographer for the Geologic Survey, 
at the instance of the local board of the Water 
Storage Commission, made an exhaustive inves- 
tigation of the rainfall on the upper Salt and 
Tonto, as well as the capacity of the reservoir. 
Also, what was equally important, by the use of 
diamond drills, he had ascertained that bed rock 
extended across the river at a favorable spot upon 
which to build the dam. 

The first tangible results of the labors of our 
genii appeared when, on March 12, 1903, Secre- 
tary of the Interior E. A. Hitchcock tentatively 
authorized the construction of a storage dam to 
be built on the Tonto site, and, on October 15th, re- 
affirmed the order and authorized the expenditure 
of $100,000, the first installment of a fund which 
was expected to reach $3,000,000. This money was 
to be returned to the Government by the farmers 
in installments covering a number of years, and 
without interest. 



304 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

In addition to the building of the storage dam, 
the Reclamation Service undertook not only to 
purchase all of the existing canals in the Salt 
River Valley which desired to avail themselves 
of this stored water, but also to greatly improve 
them, build a permanent, concrete diversion dam 
to turn the water from the river into the canals 
and to develop water power. 

The work was carried out even better than first 
planned. Under the supervision of Louis C. Hill, 
one of the great civil engineers of America, a 
system of water storage and distribution, and the 
development of water power, was carried to com- 
pletion that has no superior in the world. 

As completed, the project has cost over eleven 
millions of dollars, and while there has been much 
local criticism over the unexpected high price of 
the work, nothing but praise can be given the 
completed system. In former years, in the valley, 
floods would wash out diversion dams when the 
river was high, and even with dams intact, canals 
would carry but a meager supply when the river 
was low. Now there is a stable and ample supply, 
and lands in certain parts of the project that could 
then not be sold for $30 an acre are worth today 
from $150 to $350 an acre. 

Labor and brains and money, without stint, 
went into the Roosevelt Dam, but the benefits 
accruing from it are far reaching. The Salt River 
Valley is one of the garden spots of the world. 
It is a land of milk and honey, it is a land of 
fruits and vines. Its fields are emerald with wav- 



TILLING THE SOIL 305 

ing alfalfa as far as the eye can reach; its fields 
are golden with grain, they are silvered with 
cotton. Fruits of the Occident, such as peaches, 
plums and apricots, grow side by side with dates, 
figs and pomegranates of the Orient, while in pro- 
tected spots near the foothills the apples of the 
Hesperides — oranges, pomeloes and lemons — are 
grown in rare perfection. The fame of its lettuce 
and melons is nation wide. 

The first stone in the dam was laid September 
20, 1906, the last, February 5, 1911. The height of 
the dam from lowest foundation stone is 284 feet, 
and the structure is 168 feet thick at the base. The 
spillways are in natural rock. The area of the 
lake formed by the dam when full is 25% square 
miles, when it holds 1,367,305 acre feet of water, 
which is, of course, water enough to cover 1,367,305 
acres one foot deep. It is the largest artificial 
body of water in the world. 

In building the irrigation system, every possible 
opportunity for developing water power by falls 
was utilized, and this power converted into elec- 
tricity by means of plants of the most efficient type. 
At the dam itself, 10,000 horse power is developed, 
and at other places on the various canals, 15,000 
horse power more. 

The area of land to be irrigated by the system, 
when entirely perfected, is now estimated at 
219,000 acres. ^ 

On March 18, 1911, this mighty irrigation sys- 
tem was dedicated by Colonel Roosevelt, who had 
not only taken great interest in reclamation 



306 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

projects in general in the West, but in particular 
the irrigation system in the Salt River Valley, 
whose dam and reservoir now bear his name. 

John P. Orme, president of the Water Users' 
Association, acted as ex-officio reception com- 
mittee on the day of the dedication; Gov. R. C. 
Sloan was chairman. In addition to the address 
of Colonel Roosevelt, speeches were made by Chief 
Engineer Hill, B. A. Fowler and others. 

At the conclusion of his speech. Colonel Roose- 
velt moved the electric switch which opened the 
sluice gates at the northern end of the dam, and 
a great stream of impounded water went thunder- 
ing into the river bed, where about fifty-five miles 
below it would be picked up again by the Granite 
Reef Diversion Dam and turned into the irrigating 
canals. 

In order to transport supplies to the dam, a 
road was built from Globe past the reservoir to 
the Salt River Valley. Much of the country is very 
mountainous, with crags, gorges and precipices on 
every hand. The road going through the heart of 
all this is one of the scenic highways of America 
and has gained a national reputation under the 
name of "The Apache Trail." For all the rough- 
ness of the country, the road was so carefully 
laid out and so skillfully built that travel over it 
is not only exhilarating but safe and pleasant. It 
is used by several automobile stage lines, one 
operated by the Southern Pacific Railroad. 



TILLING THE SOIL 307 

VERDE RESERVOIR SITES 

On the lower Verde River, a tributary of the 
Salt, favorable reports have been made by Govern- 
ment engineers on two additional reservoir sites, 
the "McDowell" and the Horseshoe. The former 
would impound 280,000 acre feet of water, and 
the latter 205,000 acre feet, or sufficient to supply 
over 50,000 acres of land. 

THE LAGUNA PROJECT 

Climatic conditions along the lower Gila and 
the lower Colorado do not vary greatly from those 
in the Salt River Valley, and the "desert" soils 
adjoining them need only the application of water 
to make them fruitful. 

Above Yuma the United States Reclamation 
Service, in July, 1905, began work on a dam which 
would divert water from the Colorado River into 
an irrigating canal, where it would water about 
130,000 acres of land. This dam, which crossed 
the river with a total length of 4,780 feet, is 244 
feet wide and 19 feet high. It is built of loose rock 
confined by three, heavy concrete walls, with an 
18-inch floor of concrete on top, and has a con- 
crete apron extending down stream. While not 
intended as a storage dam, it raises the water 
about 10 feet. 

The intake of the canal is on the California 
side of the river, fourteen miles north of Yuma. 
The canal carries the water south to a point op- 



308 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

posite the city, where it drops it through a syphon 
under the Colorado River, coming out on the side 
of a hill to flow southward again, this time cross- 
ing the International line into Mexico. 

The lands irrigated by the system include: In 
California, 17,000 acres on Indian reservation; on 
the Arizona side, 20,000 acres in the Gila bottom, 
53,000 acres in the Yuma Valley, and 40,000 acres 
on the Yuma mesa. 

Water was first delivered on the Arizona side, 
through the syphon, June 28, 1912. 

IRRIGATION RESOURCES OF ARIZONA 

The natural flow of water in the Gila River is 
even more fluctuating than in the Salt, and al- 
though the Reclamation Service has not yet under- 
taken to construct a storage system for that stream, 
several sites have been favorably passed upon by 
Government engineers, the most favorable one 
being located a few miles below San Carlos. A 
complication in building a dam here has arisen 
owing to the fact that the Arizona Eastern Rail- 
road Company has a right-of-way through the 
canyon where the reservoir would be located. 
However, it has been estimated that a proper dam 
and diversion weir can be built for $6,311,000, 
which also includes payment to the railroad com- 
pany for their right of way. The increase in value 
of the lands watered by it alone would more than 
pay for it, as it is estimated impounding the 
average flow of the Gila would water ninety thou- 



TILLING THE SOIL 309 

sand acres of land. Part of this water would be 
used by the Pima Indians on their reservation. 
Special bills have been introduced in Congress 
authorizing the construction of the San Carlos 
Dam on a plan of repayment of cost by the irriga- 
tors similar to the custom of the Reclamation 
Service in other projects. 

At present Indians on the Pima Reservation are 
using for irrigation water pumped from wells with 
power transmitted from the Roosevelt system. 
These wells were designed by W. H. Code, former 
chief of the superintendents of irrigation for the 
Indians, and an engineer of international repu- 
tation, and while they have proven of great benefit 
to the Pimas, the ten thousand acres irrigated by 
them are inadequate for their steadily increasing 
needs. 

A small storage reservoir has been made by a 
recently completed dam on Granite Creek near 
Prescott and provides water for irrigation in the 
Little Chino Valley. 

On the night of April 14, 1915, the Lyman 
storage dam on the Little Colorado River, above 
St. Johns, in Apache County, went out in a flood, 
taking two lives and causing a money loss of over 
$200,000. 

Later the state Legislature arranged to loan the 
farmers of the district $120,000 to replace the dam. 
The foundation of the clay cone is now — June, 
1918 — entirely done and the concrete wings in 
place. It is expected that the entire structure will 
be finished January 1, 1919. 



310 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

On the upper Gila, irrigation has been practiced 
for a number of years, the settlers using the normal 
flow of the river. Along the Arizona-New Mexico 
line, five small canals irrigate lands in both states, 
and five more are used wholly on the Arizona side 
of the line. In the Soloman Valley, as far down 
the river as San Carlos, twenty-four canals irrigate 
23,728 acres. Between San Carlos and Florence 
there are four canals. 

Alfalfa is the principal crop on the upper Gila, 
and in addition to oats, wheat and barley, decid- 
uous fruits are raised, pears, peaches and apples 
doing especially well. The farms are small, and 
the people, largely of the Mormon faith, incline 
towards intensive methods of farming. 

The San Pedro and Santa Cruz valleys resemble 
the upper Gila agriculturally. St. David, on the 
San Pedro, watered both by stream flow and by 
wells, is a place of gardens, the produce of which 
finds ready market in Bisbee and vicinity. Sum- 
mer waters are utilized on both the Santa Cruz 
and the San Pedro for quick growing crops of corn. 
Winter rains afford water for crops of wheat and 
barley. About forty-five small canals take water 
from the San Pedro, and probably sixty draw upon 
the Santa Cruz and its tributaries. Ground waters 
underlie both these valleys and are being devel- 
oped in considerable quantity by artesian wells 
on the San Pedro and by pumping plants on the 
Santa Cruz. 

The narrow strips of excellent land bordering 
the upper Verde Biver and its tributaries, Clear, 



TILLING THE SOIL 311 

Beaver, Oak and Dragoon creeks, aggregating 
about 8,000 acres, are irrigated by the use of 79 
small canals. The altitude here is from 3,500 to 
5,500 feet, and on the little farms splendid decid- 
uous fruits are raised in addition to the usual 
alfalfa and grain. 

Irrigation is used to supplement rainfall on 
the Little Colorado, which varies from eight to 
twenty inches per annum. Farming is combined 
largely with the ranging of sheep and cattle. The 
altitude is from five to seven thousand feet. 

CROPS 

Acreage in crops in Arizona, in 1917, as com- 
piled by the State Council of Defense and verified 
by L. M. Harrison, government field agent, are as 
follows : 

Maricopa County 270,000 acres 

Cochise 46,000 

Graham 42,000 

Yuma 36,000 

Pinal 28,000 

Pima 26,000 

Coconino 14,000 

Yavapai 14,000 

Navajo 14,000 

Santa Cruz 11,000 

Apache 11,000 

Gila 6,000 

Greenlee 4,000 

Mojave 1,350 

Total 523,350 acres 



312 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

The principal crops were : 

Alfalfa 133,000 acres 

Cotton 52,000 

Wheat 33,000 

Corn 32,000 

Other maizes 60,000 

Beans and peas 19,500 

Potatoes 4,400 

Garden truck 8,000 

Deciduous orchards 5,259 

Melons 4,800 

Citrus fruits 2,691 

Olives 601 

According to conservative Government reports 
in Arizona, there is irrigation water, known and 
estimated, which may be developed by building 
storage dams at approved sites and by pumping 
from an underground supply, for a million and a 
quarter acres of land. In addition to this, the 
area where crops are raised by rainfall and rain- 
fall supplemented by irrigation is steadily in- 
creasing. 

COTTON GROWING IN ARIZONA 

The success attained by cotton growers, both 
as to the excellence of the product and the profit 
derived from its cultivation, has been so marked 
that the industry deserves very special mention. 

As has already been recorded, cotton was grown 
by the ancient cliff dwellers around Navajo Moun- 
tain, and by their presumed descendants, the Hopis, 
since the morning twilight of history, and when 
the Jesuits and Franciscans journeyed along the 



TILLING THE SOIL 313 

Gila River they marveled at the excellence of the 
cotton raised and spun by the Pima Indians. 

Perhaps the first cotton raised by the whites in 
Arizona was a five-acre patch, grown in 1873 by 
John Osborn, near Phoenix. The lint was combed 
by hand and used principally for making bed com- 
forts. After taking what cotton he could use for 
his family's needs, Mr. Osborn gave the rest of it 
away to his friends, who used it, unginned, for 
filling mattresses. 

In 1884 Felix G. Hardwick raised five acres of 
cotton on the Larsen ranch south of Tempe, from 
which he picked 3,390 pounds, unginned, and re- 
ceived a reward of $500 offered by the territorial 
Legislature. 

In spite of the success of these experimental 
patches, the cultivation of the crop was not con- 
tinued. The price of short-staple cotton was low 
and offered no attraction to the Arizona raiser of 
alfalfa and grains. In 1899 an official of the De- 
partment of Forestry stated to Dr. A. J. Chandler, 
a canal builder and extensive rancher in the Salt 
River Valley, that he believed that high priced 
Egyptian cotton could successfully be grown in the 
Salt River Valley. As a result Doctor Chandler 
planted a five-acre patch on his ranch north of 
Mesa. The yield and quality were so satisfactory 
that Doctor Chandler induced Prof. A. J. Mc- 
Clatchie, an agricultural scientist, to put in a piece 
on the Experimental Farm on Grand Avenue near 
Phoenix. The lint harvested from this patch was 
tested in the Lowell Textile School, where it proved 



314 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

14 per cent stronger than the same variety from 
Egypt. 

In 1902 cotton growing was taken up at Yuma 
by local representatives of the Bureau of Plant 
Industry, and after a few years of careful work 
in seed selection and cultivation, the variety now 
known as the "Yuma" was produced. In 1907 ex- 
periments in cotton growing were begun at the 
Government Experiment Station at Sacaton on the 
Pima Indian Reservation, where the work came 
under the immediate supervision of E. W. Hudson. 
Here what is now known as the "Pima" variety 
was evolved, which is considered the best strain 
of Egyptian cotton grown. 

Its first production on a large scale was under- 
taken in fields south of Tempe, when, in 1916, 
275 acres were scientifically planted and cared for. 
According to George Butterworth, official classifier, 
there is 5,73 per cent less waste in Pima than in 
fancy Sea Island. The average length of the Pima 
staple is 1 11/16 inches — the longest in the world. 

The largest grower of cotton in Arizona is the 
Southwest Cotton Company, a subsidiary company 
of the Goodyear Tire and Rubber Company. The 
Goodyear people came to the state through the 
efforts of Dr. A. J. Chandler and T. W. McDevitt, 
and after being convinced that Pima cotton grown 
in Arizona was the best in the world for the manu- 
facture of tires, they leased from Doctor Chandler 
for five years, with option to buy, eight thousand 
acres of desert land lying south of Chandler in 
the Salt River Valley. Under the contract Doctor 



TILLING THE SOIL 315 

Chandler was to construct an irrigation system, 
furnishing pumped water; the Goodyear people 
were to prepare the land. In December the tract 
was a primeval desert covered with creosote bush, 
sagebrush and cacti. An army of men, equipped 
with teams, tractors and implements, under skill- 
ful management, were put to work. Those em- 
ployed by Doctor Chandler sank wells, installed 
pumping plants and built concrete ditches; those 
working for the cotton company cleared, leveled 
and bordered the land for irrigation and sowed 
the seed. By May the cotton was up and growing 
on three thousand acres, and five thousand acres 
of land more were being worked upon. 

The change in the aspect of the country was 
little less than miraculous. This, however, is but 
a single unit of the cotton company's undertaking. 
Their plantings in 1918 were: Chandler Ranch, 
7,000; Anderson unit, 4,000; Agua Fria Ranch, 
4,000. The company has built two towns, Good- 
year on the Chandler Ranch, and Litchfield on 
the Agua Fria. At present, April, 1918, the South- 
west Cotton Company employs 2,500 men, and, 
in addition to numerous tractors and caterpillars, 
uses 1,000 mules. Electrical power for pumping 
irrigation water is obtained from the Roosevelt 
irrigation project. Seventy-five thousand acres, 
altogether, of cotton were planted in the Salt River 
Valley in 1918, and 17,000 acres in the Laguna 
country at Yuma. 

Arizona cotton has proven its superiority in 
several distinct lines. It makes the toughest and 



316 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

best automobile tire fabric known, and the smooth- 
est and strongest thread. It also combines readily 
with silk and is even better than Sea Island for 
mercerizing. Possibly one of the important uses 
from now on for Pima cotton will be the manu- 
facture of airplane wings, where length and 
strength of fibre are first requisites. The adapta- 
bility to that purpose of Pima cotton was brought 
to the attention of Howard Coffin, chairman of 
the aircraft board, by Dwight B. Heard, chairman 
of the Arizona Council of Defense, and as a result 
the Government bought two hundred bales of Pima 
cotton at Tempe, paying seventy-three cents a 
pound for it, and converted the staple into air- 
plane fabrics at a New England factory. 

If the name of the man who makes two blades 
of grass grow where but one grew before should 
be called blessed, what shall be said of some of 
our Arizona pioneers who have converted cacti- 
covered desert, where crawled the horned toad and 
roamed the coyote, into green alfalfa fields, where 
cattle stand knee-deep in lush verdure? 

If food will win the world war, that Moloch-like 
devours our sons and daughters, what honors are 
too great for men who, while the unspeakable Hun 
devastates and renders sterile the farms of France, 
make fruitful fields where only cat-claw and sage- 
brush grew before? In Arizona there is W. J. 
Murphy, who, besides turning literally thousands 
of acres of desert into alfalfa fields and orchards, 
planted thirty-two miles of shade trees, many of 
them on other people's property, just to see the 



TILLING THE SOIL 317 

grateful shadows in a sun-kissed land, where the 
aforesaid kisses, along in August, are just a bit 
too ardent. Then, too, there is the instance of 
Dr. A. J. Chandler, who discovered, what no one 
had suspected, that an underground lake of water 
lay under the desert south of Mesa, and, after 
developing water power by changing the course of 
an irrigating canal, pumped the underground 
water to the surface and made a fourteen thousand 
acre alfalfa field, which he cut into small fields and 
sold on long time to settlers. Did these men make 
money out of what they did? We hope so. They 
were not posing as philanthropists. What was 
better, they actually created possibilities for rais- 
ing foodstuffs for countless years to come where 
only a wilderness had been before them. 

Equally worthy of praise with the work of such 
captains of industry is what is done by the small 
homesteader, who takes water from some stream 
like the East Verde or the Santa Cruz and, with his 
own labor, waters his little orchard and patch of 
corn. 

Perhaps the greatest praise of all, in this matter 
of beneficial use of water, should go to an old 
squaw who lives near Quitovaquito. All the water 
that she had for herself and her household she 
carried from a well and poured into an earthen 
oUa that stands in the shade of her rude jacal. 
Under the oUa she planted a few onions which 
grew to maturity, watered by the drops that oozed 
through the bottom of her jar and fell to the 
ground. 



318 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

STOCK RAISING 

In its primitive condition about half of Ari- 
zona's area, or nearly forty million acres, was 
available for grazing land. As is noted in the 
chapter on the flora of Arizona, the state is rich 
with many varieties of native grasses. On the 
deserts, winter rain brings up a verdure which lasts 
sometimes through February, March and into 
April. In the foothills, where more rain falls, 
herbage of one sort and another will last for a 
month longer, and again be quickened into life by 
summer rains of July and August. In the plateau 
country and in the mountains, forage plants are 
watered by melting snows in the winter and, ac- 
cording to the wetness or the dryness of the season, 
produce herbage throughout the summer. 

Attracted by these favorable natural conditions, 
the Spaniards, as early as 1780, commenced bring- 
ing in herds into what is now the southeastern part 
of Arizona; and, during the periods of peace with 
the Apaches, from 1790 to 1815, many flourishing 
haciendas were established from Tucson, both 
southeast and southwest, past the present Inter- 
national line. Here some sheep and great herds 
of cattle were raised, and it was the survivors of 
these latter herds that the Mormon battalion en- 
countered on the San Pedro in 1846. 

Many of the Indian tribes of the state raised 
both cattle and sheep on a small scale after the 
Spaniards came. The Navajos, the chief of these 
native herdsmen, first derived their flocks by theft 



TILLING THE SOIL 319 

from the Spaniards on the Rio Grande, and were 
fairly well embarked on a pastoral vocation in the 
early part of the nineteenth century. 

Americans began bringing cattle into southern 
Arizona within a few years after the Gadsden 
Purchase. In 1857 Bill Kirkland brought a band 
of cattle to the Canoa Ranch, forty miles south of 
Tucson. A pioneer by the name of Harrup tells 
that he was one of the cowboys, in '64, to drive a 
band of cattle across the desert from San Ber- 
nardino to Hardeyville, where it was bought by a 
man of the name of Stevens and taken on into 
Williamson Valley. About this same time, W. S. 
Oury of Tucson imported forty milch cows which 
he pastured near Tucson. All of the stock in those 
days had to be guarded day and night on account 
of the Apaches. 

With the coming of the soldiers, in the latter 
part of the Civil War, cattle were driven in by 
beef contractors, and attempts were made at cattle 
raising in the Territory to supply the various posts. 
One of the leading stockmen in the Territory in 
the late '60s was H. C. Hooker, owner of the famous 
Sierra stock range located near Fort Grant, and 
interested in live-stock enterprises in various parts 
of the Territory. In 1868 he tried the experiment 
of turning cattle out on the rich grass in William- 
son Valley west of Prescott, but the Apaches raided 
them so continuously that the project was given up. 
In 1869 Hooker had four thousand head of cattle 
near Camp Crittenden, but after several raids by 
the Apaches he took them into the Papago country 



320 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

in the Arivaca Valley not far from the Mexican 
line. Just to show their friendly attitude toward 
Hooker, the Papagos stole all the cattle they cared 
to eat but undoubtedly served as something of a 
buffer against Apaches. 

By 1880, when, except in the southeastern part 
of Arizona, the Apaches were pretty well under 
control, according to census statistics there were 
in the Territory 145,000 cattle, 326,000 sheep and 
9,700 hogs. 

Today many of the leading sheepmen, during 
the summer months, pasture their herds on the 
high plateaus in the north-central part of the state 
and, in the fall, bring them down by easy stages, 
through the foothills to the desert, where, in the 
early spring they are sheared, and soon thereafter 
begin their slow pilgrimage back to the moun- 
tains. They are driven along routes designated 
by the Government, and the forest rangers see to 
it that they keep the proper paths. Indeed, as 
much of the open range is now in the forest re- 
serve, the forestry officials largely have supervision 
over the grazing of stock in the state, setting cer- 
tain sections aside for sheep and certain others for 
cattle, thus relegating sheep and cattle wars to the 
gun days of the pioneers. Herds of angora goats 
are frequently encountered in such places as the 
uplands about Prescott, where they will eat ap- 
parently anything from cactus to oak browse. 

In the beef industry the ranges are largely used 
as a breeding ground, the cattle being brought into 
irrigated countries and fattened for the markets 
on alfalfa. 



TILLING THE SOIL 321 

Although the ranges, with the steadily increas- 
ing numbers of small farmers, yearly become more 
restricted, yet in foothill and mountain, where 
water is accessible, cattle ranches commanding 
wide ranges may still be found and the thrifty 
headquarter houses, corrals and barns give every 
evidence of prosperity. Fences enclosing these 
areas are more common than in former days, but 
there are still places where herds more or less in- 
termingle and rodeas take place in the spring and 
fall as of old. 

The number and value of live stock in the state, 
according to the assessment list for 1917, is as 
follows : 

Number Value 

Cattle 900,180 $26,904,962.00 

Milch cows. . . . 33,277 2,151,547.00 

Sheep 808,220 4,851,980.00 

Goats .142,561 427,774.00 

Swine 22,484 132,917.00 

Buffalo 30 750.00 

OSTRICHES 

A rather unusual experiment that has been 
tried out by the Arizona farmers is the raising of 
ostriches for feathers. The industry saw its begin- 
ning in the state when, in 1888, two Arizona farm- 
ers, Josiah Harbert and M. E. Clanton, purchased 
a breeding pair and twelve chicks from a Cali- 
fornia exhibition park. In transporting the birds 
from the station at Phoenix to the Harbert ranch, 
all of the chicks but one were smothered, and to 
complete the owners' misfortunes, the following 

21 



322 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

year the mother bird died from the effects of eating 
too much barbed wire. 

This left the old male and one chick, who 
doubtless, being stirred to pity by the straits to 
which the owners were reduced, at the end of the 
third year laid an egg. The habit once formed 
was persisted in, and, seven years later, in 1898, 
this admirable mother had ninety-seven children 
and grandchildren. These birds found in the Salt 
River Valley a most congenial climate, and in 
alfalfa a perfect ration. 

The Harbert birds were a South African strain. 
Later a few big Nubians were imported into the 
valley, and the progeny of these different birds 
multiplied until by 1913 there totalled over six 
thousand, the largest number to be found any 
place in the world outside of Africa. 

However, though the birds did exceedingly 
well and produced good feathers, the market price 
of plumes steadily declined until, deciding that the 
industry was an unprofitable one, the largest 
ostrich farm in Arizona disposed of its entire lot 
of birds at any price it could get, taking as low as 
five dollars for ostriches that had been held at 
from two to three hundred dollars. 

According to the assessment roll there are now 
(1918) 950 birds in the state, which on the lists 
are valued at $8.10 apiece. 

BISONS 

The thirty buffalo, or bison, in the state belong 

to a cattle company, and are located north of the 

Grand Canyon. The owners are crossing them 

with cattle, trying to produce a new beef strain. 



Chapter XXI 

CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS 

THE MORMONS 

FOLLOWING the Catholics, the Mormons 
were the second large religious denomina- 
tion to be actively engaged in church work 
in Arizona. 

Among the earliest Mormons to penetrate the 
country, afterwards known as Arizona, was a party 
of missionaries who, it is reported, visited the 
Hopi villages in 1846. Later, in December of the 
same year, the Mormon battalion, as we have 
noted, passed through the southern part of the 
state, which journey gave its members excellent 
opportunities to observe the country's agricultural 
possibilities, and the Mormon colonists who after- 
wards settled in this section were doubtless in- 
fluenced in their action by the report of these 
soldiers. 

The first attempt at settlement by the Mormons 
here seems to have been made at Tubac in 1852, 
but the location was soon abandoned on account 
of the inadequacy of the water supply for irriga- 
tion. Another early Mormon colony was the one 
established in 1863 or '64 on the Colorado River, 
in Pah-Ute County, which, in honor of its leader, 

323 



324 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Anson Gall, was named Callville. With their usual 
industry, these settlers built comfortable, if primi- 
tive buildings, constructed irrigating canals and 
practiced farming. However, when that part of 
the county was annexed to Nevada, that state 
levied taxes against the land for the years it had 
been a part of Arizona, although the colonists had 
already paid taxes. This proved so great a burden 
that the settlers abandoned their farms, some of 
them going to southern Arizona and others to 
Utah. 

In 1865 a second colony left Utah under the 
leadership of Thomas S. Smith, and settled in the 
same region, at St. Thomas, on the lower Muddy 
River. By 1871 they had three thousand cultivated 
acres, but, as in the case of Callville, rather than 
fight the matter of double taxation in the courts, 
the colony, which numbered five hundred families, 
left their farms and returned to Utah. 

Also, in the '60s, a settlement was made in 
Walnut Grove, in Yavapai County, where five hun- 
dred acres were put in cultivation. Another settle- 
ment was made at Postle's Ranch on a branch of 
the Verde, twenty miles north of Prescott. 

Jacob Hamblin, a personal friend of Brigham 
Young, in 1858 led a party of twelve on a mis- 
sionary journey to the Hopis. The party included, 
beside an Indian and Spanish interpreter, a man 
who could speak Welsh, for there was a persistent, 
amazing theory, in the early Arizona days, that the 
Hopis were of Welsh descent. Indeed, no less a 
person than Delegate Poston, in a speech in Con- 



CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS 325 

gress, refers to the Moquis as a people "supposed 
to be descendants of the Welsh prince Madoc, who 
sailed from Wales for the New World in the 
eleventh century." 

However, in spite of the Welsh interpreter, the 
Hopis declined to embrace Mormonism, just as 
they had turned a cold shoulder to Padre Garces' 
religion in 1776. 

In 1873 Hamblin laid out the wagon road which 
is now used from Lee's Ferry southward. In 1877 
a Mormon settlement was established at Moencopie 
Springs and called Tuba City. Two years later 
John W. Young built a woolen mill at the spring, 
expecting that the Navajos and Moquis would bring 
in large quantities of wool. The conservative In- 
dians, though, seemed suspicious of the new ma- 
chinery and continued to work up their wool 
themselves. Later, as the country all about the 
Tuba colony was included in the Navajo Reserva- 
tion, the Government bought out the mill and the 
land surrounding it. All that is left now to show 
for the venture is the ruin of the old stone building. 

In January, 1876, President Brigham Young 
called a number of families from Utah and Idaho 
to go into Arizona and settle and do missionary 
work among the Indians. In response, four com- 
panies composed of fifty men each, besides women 
and children, left Salt Lake City February 3, 1876, 
arriving at Sunset Crossing on the Little Colorado 
in March. Here the immigrants divided, founding 
the settlements of Sunset, Obed, Brigham City and 
Allen (afterwards St. Joseph) . A feature of special 



326 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

interest in connection with these colonies is that 
the experiment of holding all property in common 
was followed by them for several years, but while 
it was considered that the plan had many good 
features, it was finally abandoned, the property 
being redivided according to the amounts first 
contributed. 

None of these settlements proved to be perma- 
nent except St, Joseph, the settlers locating else- 
where in Arizona. 

The Mormon town of Snowflake, located in the 
southwestern part of Navajo County, was estab- 
lished in 1878. The name might seem to indicate 
a meteorological origin, but not so. The founders 
were Erasmus Snow and W. J. Flake — Snowflake! 
It was inevitable. 

Twenty-two miles to the south of Snowflake 
lies the town of Show Low, and the way it received 
its name is even more unique than the story con- 
cerning the northern town. Captain Cooley and 
Marion Clark were at one times partners, con- 
trolling the ranch where the town was afterwards 
established. Once when the two partners were 
playing a game of "seven-up" and had staked 
about all their respective possessions on their 
hands, suddenly Clark exclaimed, "Show 'low' and 
you take the ranch." Cooley promptly showed 
"low" and the town-to-be was christened. After- 
wards the ranch was sold for $13,000. 

During the '70s a number of parties from Utah 
visited Arizona, either on missionary tours or look- 
ing for favorable sites for colonization. One of 



CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS 327 

these expeditions was led by Elder Daniel W. 
Jones, a man of ability and good judgment. This 
party reached Phoenix late in 1875, and after a 
stop of one day went on to Hayden's Mill — after- 
wards known as Tempe — where Chas. T. Hayden, 
the leading citizen, gave them a hearty welcome. 
They soon moved on, via the Pima villages and 
Fort Bowie, into Mexico. Evidently they did not 
find conditions favorable at that time for coloniza- 
tion in the lower republic, for about a year later 
the expedition returned to Utah. 

The memory Jones carried of the Salt River 
Valley seems to have been a favorable one, for in 
March, 1877, Jones, again at the head of a colony, 
for a second time arrived at Tempe. On this 
occasion he had come to stay, settling his people 
a few miles up Salt River from Tempe at a place 
they called Jonesville, now the village of Lehi. 

Securing help from the Pima Indians they 
dug a small irrigating canal, planted crops and 
prospered. 

In 1878 a party of seventy-nine Mormons, under 
the leadership of F. M. Pomeroy and G. W. Sirrine, 
disliking the cold winters of their home in Paris, 
Idaho, journeyed as far south as the Verde River 
country in central Arizona. From there they sent 
a scouting party southward, which visited Jones- 
ville. The attention of the visitors was called to 
an old, prehistoric canal which led from Salt River 
to the mesa above Jonesville, which they assumed 
had been built 350 a. d. by the "Nephites" of the 
Book of Mormon. It was obvious that by follow- 



328 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

ing this ancient canal, a waterway by which the 
mesa lands could be irrigated could be constructed 
with comparatively little labor. 

Upon hearing the report of their scouts, the 
colonists at once came to the new location, founded 
a town which they called Mesa City, and imme- 
diately started work upon the canal. Even greater 
success was achieved by this colony than the one 
at Jonesville, and, the center of a rich agricultural 
region. Mesa is now the second city in importance 
in the Salt River Valley. 

The upper Gila Valley, in Graham County, was 
also settled by the Mormons, the first colony arriv- 
ing under J. K. Rogers in 1879. It is now (1918) 
the largest Mormon district in the state. 

Ecclesiastically, the Church of the Latter Day 
Saints in Arizona is divided into four "Stakes." 
The president of St. Joseph's Stake, with head- 
quarters at Thatcher, in the upper Gila country, 
is Andrew Kimball. This stake has ten meeting 
houses with 5,493 members. The Maricopa Stake 
has headquarters at Mesa, with James W. Lesueur 
as president with over 3,500 members, divided into 
sixteen wards. St. John's Stake, with headquarters 
at St. Johns in Apache County, has 1,500 members 
in eight wards, with David K. Udall as president. 
The membership of the Snowflake Stake is about 
the same as that at St. Johns. The president is 
Samuel H. Smith. 

At Thatcher, Snowflake and St. Johns there are 
excellent academies conducted under the auspices 
of the Mormon church, the Thatcher school being 



CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS 329 

the most important, with 226 students and eight 
teachers. 

Practically all difficulties between Mormons are 
settled within the church. Ward teachers visit all 
families within their district. If troubles arise that 
the teacher cannot adjust, the contending parties 
are brought before the bishop for trial. The de- 
cision of the bishop can be appealed to the stake 
presidency and the high council of twelve, and this 
decision, if necessary, can be carried up to the 
first presidency and the twelve apostles. No charge 
is made by any church official for services ren- 
dered to the church. The extreme punishment 
meted out to an offender is excommunication. 

The Mormons state with pride that out of a 
state membership of about fifteen thousand there is 
not one of their denomination in an Arizona poor- 
farm, charity hospital or penitentiary. They not 
only do not believe in drinking alcoholic liquors, 
but as well discourage the use of tobacco, coffee 
and tea. They try to provide entertainment for 
their young people within the church. For 
example, they give dances in their meeting-houses, 
opening and closing them with prayer. 

In view of their belief that the Government 
prosecuted their leaders with undue severity in 
the old polygamous days, the loyalty of the Mor- 
mons today to the Government is noteworthy. In 
these times of war they have been conspicuously 
zealous in all avenues of patriotic work, whether 
it is in buying liberty bonds, co-operating in a 
Red Cross drive or in giving their sons and daugh- 
ters to the army and navy. 



330 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

In connection with the prosecution by the Fed- 
eral authorities of certain pioneer Mormons for 
plural marriages, interesting stories are told con- 
cerning "an underground railroad" by the use of 
which Mormons, fleeing south from Utah, were 
enabled to find sanctuary in Old Mexico. The 
route lay south across Lee's Ferry down through 
Snowflake and over the mountains to Mesa, near 
which town a camp was maintained in the Super- 
stition Mountains. The journey through settled 
regions was made at night, the Mormons from each 
Arizona colony passing the fugitives from one 
station to another. From Mesa the journey was 
taken to Deming, New Mexico, and thence to Diaz 
in Old Mexico, where residence was maintained 
until safety was assured to the exiles in their old 
homes. 

THE RESTORATION OF SAN XAVIER 

As we have seen, mission days in Arizona came 
to an end with the expulsion of the Franciscans, 
which followed soon after the formation of the 
Mexican republic in 1827. From that time on 
Tumacacori has been a ruin, but San Xavier seems 
to have been occasionally visited by the priest at 
Magdalena, under whose charge it had been placed 
by the bishop of Sonora. In 1859 what is now 
known as Arizona was made a part of the diocese 
of New Mexico, with Rishop Rt. Rev. J. R. Lamy 
in charge, his headquarters being in Santa Fi. 
Soon after this addition to his diocese the bishop 



CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS 331 

sent his vicar-general, Rev. J. T. Machebeuf, on a 
tour of inspection in Arizona, who reported Tum- 
acacori in ruins but San Xavier in fair condition. 

In 1863 two Jesuits from the Santa Clara Col- 
lege, California, took charge of the mission at San 
Xavier. Upon arrival they were received by the 
Indians who, with great demonstrations of joy, 
rang the bells and exploded fireworks in their 
honor. 

Hearty as their welcome was, the priests were 
even more delighted when their Papago charges 
brought to them articles for the altar which had 
been kept hidden by the tribe, waiting the day 
when their spiritual fathers should return. 

In 1898 Bishop Henry Granjon of Tucson had a 
large niche cut in a little butte overlooking the 
mission, and in it placed a replica of the shrine 
of Lourdes. The land around the mission is now 
a part of a Papago Indian reservation, and the 
well-tilled fields thereon are irrigated by water 
from the Santa Cruz. 

The territory embraced within the limits of 
Arizona was formed into a separate diocese in 
1868, with Bishop J. B. Salpointe in charge. It is 
now known as the diocese of Tucson with the Rt. 
Rev. Henry Granjon bishop. 

At present, 1918, there are within the diocese 
thirty-two parishes with resident priests and sixty- 
four churches without. There is also within the 
state, conducted under Catholic auspices, one col- 
lege for boys, six schools for Indians, one orphans' 
home and four hospitals. 



332 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

The Catholic population of the state is given 
as about fifty-five thousand. 

OTHER CHURCHES 

The earliest missionary activities of the Prot- 
estant Church in Arizona, of which we can find 
record, began in late Civil War times. In 1864 
church services were held in a log cabin in Pres- 
cott by the Rev. Wm. H. Reid, who was postmaster 
as well as pastor. A Sunday school was organized 
August 7th of the same year. Rev. J. L. Dyer was 
a Methodist minister who did missionary work in 
the state in 1868. The First Presbyterian mis- 
sionary in Arizona seems to have been Rev. J. N. 
Roberts, who ministered to the Navajos in 1869. 
Also, that same year, James A. Skinner was sent 
by the American Bible Society to Prescott. Under 
the leadership of Rev. George H. Adams, one of the 
most active of Arizona's early ministers, in 1879 
a state Methodist organization was effected. The 
Rev. J. C. Bristow preached the first Baptist sermon 
to be delivered in the state under a cottonwood 
tree at Middle Verde, October 10, 1875. In 1880 
the Baptists established the "Lone Star" Church at 
Prescott, and a year later organized the Arizona 
Central Association. 

A writer in 1885 says that until Arizona was 
penetrated by railroads the mission boards found 
great difficulty in securing men for this isolated 
region. As late as 1880 there were but four regu- 
larly established Protestant places of worship in 



CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS 333 

Arizona, and these were small, having a combined 
seating capacity of one thousand, with a state 
population of thirty thousand. By 1885 we find 
a marked improvement. The Methodists had 
churches at Tombstone, Tucson, Globe, Florence, 
Prescott, Phoenix and Pinal; the Presbyterians at 
Tucson, Tombstone, Phoenix and Prescott; Metho- 
dist South at Prescott and Phoenix; Baptist, 
Phoenix, Prescott, Globe and Tucson; Congrega- 
tionalists, Tucson and Prescott; Episcopalians, 
Tucson and Tombstone. At that time the Mormons 
had thirty-five churches and a membership of five 
thousand. The Catholics, too, had many parish- 
ioners, including Mexicans and Indians, and had 
churches at Prescott, Phoenix, Florence, Tucson, 
Tombstone, Tubac and San Xavier. 

Although, in the Episcopal Church, four bishops 
previously had had nominal jurisdiction over Ari- 
zona, Bishop George K. Dunlap found, in 1880, 
"not a church building, . . . not an organized 
congregation, not a clergyman." During the eight 
years he was in charge of the diocese, church build- 
ings were erected at Tombstone and Phoenix, and 
a congregation ministered unto at Tucson. In 
1889 the diocese, which then included Arizona, 
New Mexico and Texas, west of the Pecos, was 
given in charge of Bishop J. Mills Kendrick, one 
of the ablest and at the same time one of the most 
unassuming soldiers of the cross that ever lived in 
the Southwest. For twenty-three years he traveled 
back and forth over the same weary desert Padres 
Kino and Garces had encountered nearly two hun- 



334 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

dred years before. Under his fostering care 
churches were built at Prescott, Globe, Douglas, 
Bisbee, Winslow, Williams and Nogales, all of 
which edifices he insisted must be built without 
debt. When the members of the church at Tucson 
had the walls up for a new church, but no money 
in sight for the roof, they suggested borrowing, 
but the bishop responded that he could see no 
finer compliment that could be paid to the climate 
of Tucson than for a congregation to worship with 
but the sky for a covering. The members took the 
delicate hint and went down into their pockets 
and paid for the roof. 

Desiring to help the Indians in a way that the 
Redmen could appreciate was really for their 
benefit alone. Bishop Kendrick was the means of 
establishing the hospital of the Good Shepherd 
near Fort Defiance on the Navajo Reservation, his 
thought being that it would be a memorial of an 
unselfish gift of a strong race to a weaker one. 
Apparently unmindful of the irritations of stage 
travel and rugged roadside lodging that would 
have maddened a less serene character, he used to 
say that at times he noticed certain inconveniences 
in going about the more remote portions of his 
stupendous diocese, but as for discomforts he 
never encountered them. He died, in 1911, beloved 
by all who knew him, and revered as one of the 
saints of the earth. 

When the overlarge diocese originally covered 
by Bishop Kendrick was divided, Arizona was 
given in charge of Bishop Julius W. Atwood, 



CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS 335 

former archdeacon and rector of Trinity Church, 
Phoenix. Doctor Atwood, a man of scholarly at- 
tainments and a most efficient organizer, has done 
much for his church in the state, one notable 
example of his many activities being the colony 
sanatorium of St. Luke, which was built and is 
being maintained largely through his efforts. It 
is located near the city of Phoenix, where patients 
are treated for tuberculosis in the most com- 
fortable surroundings. It is one of the best institu- 
tions of the kind in the Southwest, and has been of 
incalculable benefit to many people. 

According to a statement made May 1, 1917, by 
the Episcopal Church, that denomination has four 
parishes, eighteen organized missions and twenty- 
seven unorganized missions with seventeen pres- 
byters and twenty-five lay readers ; their communi- 
cants number 2,616, with 1,215 Sunday school 
members. 

The minutes of the general assembly of the 
Presbyterian Church, published May, 1917, give 
the following statistics for Arizona: Ministers, 
38; local evangelists, 11; churches, 44; church 
members, 4,382; Sunday school members, 4,982. 
Statistics of other denominations, compiled by 
Rev. E. D. Raley, general secretary of the Ari- 
zona Sunday School Association, are: Metho- 
dists, 30 churches, 3,700 members; 40 Sunday 
schools, 6,000 attendance; Baptists, 41 Sunday 
schools, 2904 attendance; Methodist Episcopal 
South, 9 churches, 1,400 members; 9 Sunday 
schools, 1,200 attendance; Christian, 10 churches. 



336 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

1,000 members; 10 Sunday schools, 1,200 attend- 
ance; Congregational, 7 churches, 600 members; 
9 Sunday schools, 700 attendance; Union and other 
schools, 128 with an attendance of 6,155. The Bap- 
tists report 38 church houses with 50 churches and 
3,099 members. The Christian Science Journal 
gives the number of churches in the state as 
3, with 6 societies and 20 practitioners. Christian 
Scientists do not give statistics as to membership. 
Under the superintendency of Rev. E. D. Raley, 
a Protestant orphanage has been established at 
Tucson, where 111 children were cared for in 1917. 
Both it and the orphanage of the Catholic Church 
are doing excellent work. 

Y. M. C. A. 

The Young Men's Christian Association is one 
of the most active organizations for moral and 
spiritual uplift in the state. There are regularly 
organized buildings and equipment in seven cities, 
divided as follows : City associations, Phoenix and 
Tucson; industrial associations, Bisbee, Clifton, 
Miami and Hayden, and a railroad association, 
Douglas. In addition to these there are student 
associations at Tucson and Tempe, and Indian 
associations in Phoenix and Tucson. There are 
army Y. M. C. A. buildings at Douglas, Nogales 
and Yuma, and special war work looked after at 
Ajo, Laguna Dam, Roosevelt Dam, Granite Reef 
Dam, Globe, Miami, Naco, Warren and Slater's 
Ranch. 



CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS 337 

The Young Women's Christian Association also 
has active organizations in the principal cities 
of the state. 

SCHOOLS 

The earliest schools in Arizona were those at 
Tucson and San Xavier del Bac, conducted under 
the auspices of the Catholic Church, most of the 
pupils being either Mexicans or Indians. 

Governor Goodwin, in his message to the First 
Legislature, recommended that the "common 
school, the high school and the university should 
all be established and are worthy of your fostering 
care," and, in following out his ideas, the law- 
makers appropriated $250 for the school at San 
Xavier and a like amount for the schools at Pres- 
cott. La Paz and Mojave, provided that each town 
raised a like amount. Five hundred dollars was 
also appropriated to establish a public school in 
Tucson, in which "the English language was to 
form a part of the daily instruction." 

Arizona's second governor, Richard C. McCor- 
mick, in his message to the Legislature in 1865, 
says that Prescott was the only one of the four 
towns of Tucson, Prescott, La Paz and Mojave to 
take advantage of the appropriation offered by 
the First Legislature, and adds : "I am inclined to 
think that the existing provisions for schools in 
the various parts of the territory are now suffi- 
cient." When we remember that this seems to 
leave San Xavier and Prescott the only places of 
learning in the state, we are prone to wonder just 



338 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

what the worthy executive meant. Let us hope 
that there were also private schools. 

The first public school of Tucson was opened 
in the fall of 1869 and taught by Augustus Brichta 
who had been assistant clerk in the Legislature. 

His pupils were all boys, and all Mexicans — 
fifty-five of them — and the school was held in an 
adobe building near Lavin's Park, with a dirt floor 
and no furniture but pine benches. 

The following year the school was moved to 
Meyer Street, where a new teacher, John Spring, 
enrolled 138 boys. Five per cent of them were 
Americans. 

In 1872 Mrs. L. G. Hughes opened Tucson's 
first public school for girls. It was located at a 
house in Levin's Park and was well attended. 

A year later Phoenix had its first public school. 
By 1882 there were 2,844 children attending public 
schools of the state, with 102 teachers to instruct 
them. During that year $83,267.93 was paid out 
for school purposes. At the same time there were 
9 private schools with 15 teachers. 

Today no state in the Union has a higher stand- 
ard for primary, grammar and high schools than 
Arizona. In cities like Phoenix, Tucson, Douglas, 
Bisbee and Prescott, handsome, well constructed, 
well equipped brick or concrete buildings are a 
perpetual surprise to the visitor, and even in the 
rural districts one finds the school buildings not 
only well constructed but of artistic and pleasing 
design, with grounds often beautified with trees, 
grass and flowers. 



CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS 339 

The educational requirements of teachers are 
high and the work done in the schools is of the 
best. Salaries paid teachers compare favorably 
with those in such states as California or Illinois. 

The amount of money expended for the com- 
mon schools of Arizona for the year 1916-17 was 
$2,869,230. In 1917 there were enrolled in the 
schools of the state, primary and grammar schools, 
55,702 scholars; in high schools, 3,664. In the 
state's teaching corps there were 1,448 in primary 
and grammar schools, and 238 in high schools. 

STATE UNIVERSITY 

Arizona's State University was brought into 
being in 1885 by the state legislature, more for 
political reasons than from an appreciation of the 
value of such an institution to the state. It 
"balanced up," giving a hospital for the insane to 
Phoenix, the State Normal School to Tempe, a 
bridge to Pinal County, a prison appropriation 
to Yuma, and letting Prescott keep the capital a 
while longer. A forty-acre site was donated for 
the campus by public spirited Tucson citizens. 
Just as the original building was completed, a 
Federal act was passed appropriating $15,000 to 
agricultural experimental stations connected with 
state or territorial universities. Naturally the 
Board of Regents felt a keen need for the money. 
They had no experiment station, but they could 
easily make a start in that direction by selecting 
a director. Selim M. Franklin, one of their num- 



340 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

ber, was an excellent lawyer and could tell a 
thistle from an artichoke. Who could make a 
better director than he for the experimental sta- 
tion? So they elected him to the position without 
salary — and secured the $15,000. Now they had a 
building and a director, but no students. High 
schools were as scarce in Arizona in 1885 as hens' 
teeth, so a "prep" school was started as a feeder 
to the higher halls of learning. 

However, the University of Arizona soon passed 
out of the chrysalis stage. The legislatures were 
liberal with appropriations, handsome and well- 
equipped buildings were erected and competent 
instructors secured. The aims of the regents seem 
to have been to build up a school that would 
graduate young men and women specially 
equipped to meet conditions as found in Arizona, 
and to that end strong emphasis have been placed 
upon mining and agriculture. Excellent as the 
work along these lines has been, it has not been 
at the expense of the cultural development of the 
undergraduate, and so in addition to the branches 
mentioned we find the university embraces a 
splendid college of letters, arts and sciences. In 
the University Extension service special short, 
mid-winter courses are given to farmers and 
housewives in agriculture and domestic science, 
and investigational work of great value is being 
carried on in various agricultural experimental 
stations, which work is directed from the uni- 
versity. 

Altogether the officers of instruction and in- 



CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS 341 

vestigation number something over one hundred, 
and while we are being statistical we may add that 
in 1917-18 the number of regular students totaled 
440; special students, 34; students in short course 
for farmers, 121; in home economics, 137; corre- 
spondence students, 20. 

Not content, however, with what has already 
been attained, under the able leadership of Presi- 
dent R. B. von KleinSmid, the university's standard 
of scholarship and service is constantly being 
raised, and already this really notable institution 
of learning is taking an advanced position among 
the universities of the Southwest. 

MODERN INDIANS AND INDIAN SCHOOLS 

In the Government's dealings with the Indians 
of Arizona in the early pioneer days, we have seen 
vacillation and weakness in policy, many blunders 
and much to criticize. Now, when we come to con- 
sider what is being done for these native tribes 
today, our only words are those of unstinted praise. 

The Indians of the state are still chiefly located 
on various reservations. The Navajo agency head- 
quarters is located at Fort Defiance, with some of 
the tribes coming under the jurisdiction of Tuba, 
Leupp and Reams Canyon. The Papagos have 
recently had assigned them, by executive order, 
a large reservation in southern Arizona with head- 
quarters at Indian Oasis. The Pimas are divided 
between the Gila River Reservation, with head- 
quarters at Sacaton, and the Salt River Reserva- 



342 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

tion, with headquarters at Salt River, the Apaches 
at old Fort McDowell also coming under this juris- 
diction. The Hopi agency headquarters is at 
Keams Canyon. The Havasupai Indians are at 
Supai, in the scenic Havasu Canyon south of the 
Grand Canyon. The Maricopas come under the 
jurisdiction of the Gila River agency. The White 
Mountain Apaches have two large agencies at 
White River and San Carlos. The Mojave Apaches 
are located at Fort Mojave and Colorado River 
consolidated agencies. The Wallpai agency head- 
quarters is at Valentine in Truxton Canyon in 
Mojave County. 

Under the United States Indian service the 
national government is sparing no pains to make 
it possible for these Indians to support themselves 
from the soil. As we have seen, water supply is 
the determining factor in successful agricultural 
practice in Arizona. To this end the Indian service 
is building reservoirs and diversion dams and put- 
ting down wells wherever possible. 

On the Navajo and the Hopi reservations, under 
the direction of Supervising Engineer H. F. Robin- 
son, the Government has drilled about two hun- 
dred wells, about half of which have been equipped 
with windmills for pumping and tanks for holding 
water for stock and domestic purposes. This has 
increased the grazing area so much that the In- 
dians' flocks of sheep and goats have multiplied 
from one hundred to five hundred per cent in the 
past five years. 

At Ganado, also on the Navajo Reservation, an 



CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS 343 

irrigation project, which includes a storage reser- 
voir, nears completion. Seven hundred acres of 
land are now being irrigated, and it is expected 
that a thousand acres more may ultimately be 
watered by the project. 

At Salt River, in Maricopa County, the Pimas 
irrigate their fields from water supplied by the 
Roosevelt irrigation project. At the Gila River 
Reservation, as has been elsewhere noted, ten wells 
pump water with power derived from the Roose- 
velt power plants. This water supply will be 
further augmented when a diversion dam, now 
being built on the Gila above Sacaton, is com- 
pleted. Ultimately the San Carlos Reservoir also 
will be built, and furnish water for the reservation 
Pimas as well as to the white farmers around Flor- 
ence. Seventeen thousand acres of land are being 
irrigated for the Yuma Indians by the Laguna 
project. At Parker it is planned to develop irriga- 
tion water by extensive pumping, where it is hoped 
that about fifteen thousand acres will be irrigated. 

Ignorance is as bad for an Indian as it is for a 
white man. To prepare the native to take his place 
in modern American life, most excellent schools 
are being maintained for him where an education 
fitted to his needs is supplied at Government 
expense. 

The chief school of the state is at Phoenix. It 
is co-educational, and, including the sanatorium, 
which is operated in connection with it, has a 
capacity of seven hundred pupils. The school is 
supported entirely by annual Federal appropria- 



344 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

tions, averaging about $135,000. There is a force 
of 72 employees, of whom 12 are academic teach- 
ers. Students are received from about 40 different 
tribes, at ages varying from 14 to 20 years, who 
enroll for a period of three to five years. This en- 
rollment is voluntary, but once enrolled the pupil 
must remain for the entire period. 

The school teaches girls sewing, cooking, laun- 
dering, nursing and general home-making indus- 
tries. The boys receive instruction in agriculture, 
including care of dairy and garden, poultry hus- 
bandry, blacksmithing, painting, engineering and 
electric work, plumbing and sheet metal work, 
printing, tailoring and harnessmaking. The 
course in these trades covers four years and is 
known as the vocational division and follows the 
completion of the sixth grade; hence the graduates 
have the equivalent of two years' high school work, 
besides their industrial training. One-half of each 
day is spent in industrial work. 

In addition to the Phoenix school there are 
about thirty governmental day schools in the 
state and nine boarding schools, all situated on 
various reservations. 

In addition to this there are a few private 
schools, usually under the auspices of some reli- 
gious organization. 

The question is often asked, "What becomes of 
the students when they return to the reservation?" 
In considering the matter, one must keep in mind 
that individuals differ among Indians the same as 
they do among whites. Some succeed, others fail. 



CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS 345 

and the determining factors for success or failure 
are with them very much as they are with us. 

The Phoenix Indian School was founded in 
1891, and when the first graduates returned to the 
reservation, it need not be considered strange if 
their new ideas were received with some distrust 
and suspicion by the older members of the tribe. 
Today, when the Pima, for example, returns to the 
reservation, he is met bj' middle-aged Indians who, 
like himself, have had the benefits of schooling, 
and the improved condition on the reservation 
today, though not so conspicuous, possibly, are 
as real as they are in white communities in 
Arizona. 

If we have given the renegades among the old 
fighting, depredating Apache a hard name, we here 
take pleasure in saying that among the most intelli- 
gent pupils in the modern Indian schools are the 
Apaches. Members of the same tribe did good 
work on the Roosevelt Dam, and young men of the 
tribe equipped with an industrial education are 
now useful, valuable members of society. 

Members of all the principal tribes of the state 
since the beginning of the European War have 
enlisted not only in the army, but in the navy as 
well, and hold their own with the whites. 



Chapter XXII 
THE SPANISH-AMERICAN WAR 

ARIZONA'S military contribution in the 
Spanish-American War was three troops in 
the First United States Volunteer Cavalry — 
the famous "Rough Riders" — and three companies 
of the First Territorial Infantry. 

In Arizona the recruiting for a cavalry force 
began even before the declaration of war, April 
21, 1898, and was looked after in the northern part 
of the state by Wm. 0. O'Neill, a prominent Ari- 
zona journalist and politician, subsequently cap- 
tain of the Rough Riders, and Jas. H. McGlintock, 
a well-known journalist who afterwards became, 
first, a captain of the Rough Riders and later 
colonel in the Arizona National Guard. 

Although nearly one thousand men were re- 
cruited for cavalry service, and though their offi- 
cers promptly offered their services to the nation, 
when the call finally came from Washington it was 
for but 210 men, which were to constitute a part 
of "a crack regiment of cavalry . . . for spe- 
cial duty." 

Governor Myron H. McCord nominated Alex- 
ander O. Brodie as major, and McGlintock and 
O'Neill as captains. 

Brodie, later to be Arizona's governor, was a 

346 



THE SPANISH-AMERICAN WAR 347 

graduate of West Point and one of General Crook's 
lieutenants in his campaign against the Indians. 
He had retired from the army to become a civil 
engineer. Brodie, McClintock and O'Neill were 
splendid men and made good ofiicers. 

The lieutenants in O'Neill's troop were Frank 
Frantz and Robert S. Patterson. Those to go with 
McClintock were Lieut. J. L. B. Alexander and 
Lieut. George Wilcox. 

The mustering in took place at Fort Whipple 
Barracks, from where Arizona's two troops, A 
and B, of 107 men each, were taken to San Antonio. 
Here Col. Leonard Wood assumed command and 
the regiment received its war training. At San 
Antonio thirty-seven men from A and B troops 
were given to a new troop "C" of which J. L. B. 
Alexander, prominent Phoenix attorney, was given 
command; Second Lieutenant Patterson was ad- 
vanced to a first lieutenant in troop C, and Hal 
Sayre, a Colorado soldier, was made second lieu- 
tenant. In troop B, Wilcox was made first lieuten- 
ant, and First Serg. T. H. Rynning, of regular army 
experience and afterwards captain of the Arizona 
Rangers, was advanced to the position of second 
lieutenant. 

It was at San Antonio that the term Rough 
Riders was really earned. The regiment was given 
a lot of half-broken range horses to ride that would 
often enliven the tedium of parade by bucking all 
"over the lot." It was also there that the inspiring 
strains of "A Hot Time in the Old Town Tonight" 
were played so often by the regimental band that 



348 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

the Texans decided that it must be the battle hymn 
of the Rough Riders. 

The next halt on the way to Cuba was made 
by the Rough Riders at Tampa, Florida, which 
was reached June 4th, and there they were made a 
part of the First Cavalry Brigade under command 
of Gen. S. M. B. Young. 

On June 7th word came that eight dismounted 
troops, including A and B, of seventy men each, 
were to go forward while the rest were to remain 
at Tampa with the horses, with the understanding 
that they were to follow soon. Lieut.-Col. Theo- 
dore Roosevelt and Major Brodie each commanded 
four of the troops that went. 

There was much confusion of orders, but on 
June 13th the eight troops finally got to sea on a 
transport, the Yucatan No. 8. Landing was made 
at Daiquiri, Cuba, on June 22d. The next after- 
noon the regiment was marched twelve miles 
through a jungle to Siboney. 

The day following the engagement of Guasimas 
was fought. The Spanish force was estimated at 
4,000; the Americans numbered 940. The engage- 
ment lasted for about two hours in which the 
Americans advanced steadily, firing at will. 

Captain McClintock says that probably the 
Spaniards had been leaving their entrenchments 
for some time before the final rush of the Rough 
Riders, for when the Americans reached the 
trenches only twenty-nine Spanish dead were 
found. 

Of the Arizona men. Major Brodie was shot in 



THE SPANISH-AMERICAN WAR 349 

the arm, Captain McClintock received several 
machine gun bullets in the ankle, Corp. George H. 
Doherty and Private Edward Ligget were killed, 
and T. W. Wiggins and N. L. Orme badly wounded. 

Colonel Wood was now given the rank of a 
brigadier general and Colonel Roosevelt became 
commander of the Rough Riders, leading his troops 
in person and sparing himself no labor in seeing 
that, in a campaign woefully mismanaged, his 
troops received what comforts he could provide 
for them. 

The Arizona Rough Riders had an active part 
in the sharp fighting at San Juan Hill, July 1st to 
3d, besides gallantly participating in the rest of 
the Santiago campaign. At San Juan, led by 
Colonel Roosevelt, they charged an extension of 
the main height called Kittle Hill and took it, 
driving a large force of Spanish infantry from 
their entrenchments. 

There were not a few deaths in the Cuban 
campaign, both in action and from fever-infested 
camps. Captain O'Neill was killed in the first day 
of the San Juan fight, when Frank Franz was ad- 
vanced to his place. 

Worn by fever even more than with the usual 
hardships of fighting, the regiment left Santiago 
August 8th for Montauk Point, to which place 
Troops C, H, I and M, which had been left at 
Tampa, had been removed a few days before. 
The regiment was mustered out of the service 
September 15, 1898. 

A splendid statue in bronze of a mounted 



350 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

soldier in action, typifying Captain O'Neill and 
dedicated to the Rough Riders, has been placed in 
the court house plaza of Prescott. The statue, 
striking in appearance, is the work of Solon Bor- 
glum, and is a fitting memorial of the services of 
Arizona's famous troopers. 

The First Territorial Infantry, through their 
officers, made every endeavor to get to the front, 
but never were nearer Cuba than Camp Church- 
man, near Albany, Georgia. The regiment, a 
splendid body of men, was well officered and 
would doubtless have given as good an account 
of itself in the battlefield as the First Cavalry had 
it been given the opportunity. The officers in- 
cluded: Colonel, Myron H. McCord; mayor, Frank 
Russell; regimental adjutant, J. W. Crenshaw. 

Company A of Phoenix was originally organ- 
ized with Russell as captain, Crenshaw, first lieu- 
tenant, and with F. W. Hill as second lieutenant. 
The men were all recruited from the National 
Guard. Company B, with Capt. Herbert S. Gray 
and Lieuts. Wiley E. Jones and Emanuel Drach- 
man, recruited its men from Tucson and other 
southern towns. Company C of Prescott and Flag- 
staff had for its officers Capt. C. E. Donaldson, 
Lieuts. F. C. Hochderfer and W. G. Scott. With 
the promotion of Russell to the position of major, 
George Christy became Captain of Company A; 
Hill, first lieutenant, and E. M. Lamson, second 
lieutenant. 



Chapter XXIII 
ARIZONA AT LAST A STATE 

IT was on St. Valentine's Day, February 14, 
1912, at 10 o'clock a. m., that President Taft, 
with a bright, new, gold pen, affixed his sig- 
nature to the proclamation making Arizona a state. 
Immediately afterwards the President advised 
Governor Sloan of his action by telegraph and 
extended his congratulations to the people of the 
state thus created. 

As soon as Governor Sloan received the mes- 
sage he at once proclaimed the day a holiday, 
under the title of "Admission Day," and the state 
gave itself over to rejoicing. 

The inauguration of Gov.-elect G. W. P. Hunt 
was performed with democratic simplicity. De- 
clining the use of an automobile as being out of 
the spirit of the new administration. Governor 
Hunt, followed by a long train of friends and per- 
sonal adherents, walked the mile or more that lay 
between his hotel and the capitol. 

As the governor-elect appeared on the front 
portico of the building, he was enthusiastically 
cheered by the throng of people who had gathered 
to do him honor. 

In his address he referred to the constitution 
in terms of warmest commendation and pledged 

351 



352 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

himself and his administration to its progressive 
principles. Thus statehood had its genesis. 

The first United States judge to be appointed 
in the commonwealth thus reborn was Ex-Gov. 
R. E. Sloan. However, Judge Sloan was not 
wholly popular with the democratic politicians. 
First, he was a republican, which was bad enough; 
secondly, while known to his friends as anything 
but a reactionary, when compared with the spirit 
of the new^ constitution he was most decidedly con- 
servative, which was worse. So, as various charges 
had been made against Sloan accusing him of un- 
fitness for office, his appointment was held up by 
the Senate at the instance of the two Arizona mem- 
bers. However, this did not prevent Judge Sloan 
from receiving an ad interim appointment in Au- 
gust from President Taft, and from holding the 
position until the end of the presidential term. 

Wm. H. Sawtelle, the present United States 
District Judge, was appointed in August, 1913. 

The First State Legislature convened March 18, 
1912. In the Senate there were four republicans 
and fifteen democrats, with M. G. Cunniff as presi- 
dent; the House, composed of four republicans and 
thirty-one democrats, had Sam B. Bradner for 
speaker. These lawmakers were a busy lot, pass- 
ing ninety-six acts and six joint resolutions. In- 
cluded in the laws thus created were manj^ favor- 
ing labor and many making regulations for rail- 
roads. One of these regulations specified the 
maximum number of cars to be allowed to a train; 
another gave the number of men to be employed 



1 



ARIZONA AT LAST A STATE 353 

on trains and engines; a third specified the mini- 
mum of candle power permitted in a headlight. 

Among the "labor" acts may be mentioned an 
act prescribing a lawful day's work, an act to 
provide for employers' liability to workmen and 
an act regulating the employment of women and 
minors. 

Teachers who had taught for twenty-five years 
in the Arizona public schools might be pensioned, 
and free textbooks were to be provided for 
children. 

One important piece of legislation passed 
created a state tax commission, consisting of three 
persons, which was given large powers in the 
supervision of the tax system of the state. This 
act was specially advocated by Governor Hunt, 
who stated that the proposed plan would make a 
notable advance not only in giving the different 
counties a uniform tax levy, but, as well, would 
insure an adequate and equitable assessment of 
copper mines and other valuable corporation 
owned property in the state. 

To further the agricultural interests of the 
commonwealth, a horticultural commission was 
established, and an appropriation made for the 
investigation of the water resources of the state. 

A special session of the Legislature began May 
23d and ended June 2, 1912. At this session eighty- 
four acts were passed with five concurrent resolu- 
tions — surely laws enough to make everybody good 
and regulations enough to make everybody happy ! 

At the republican convention held at Tucson 



354 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

June 3, 1912, to elect delegates to the national con- 
vention, there developed a decided split in the 
party. Both Maricopa and Cochise, the two most 
populous counties in the state, were in favor of 
Roosevelt; nevertheless, through the aid of the 
chairman, both were claimed for Taft. Not un- 
naturally the Roosevelt faction withdrew and held 
a separate convention, only to have their delegate 
refused admittance when the national convention 
assembled at Chicago. 

At the fall election, 1912, Arizona again showed 
how firmly she had aligned herself with the demo- 
cratic party. The vote for president was as fol- 
lows; Wilson, 10,324; Roosevelt, 6,949; Debs, 3,163; 
Taft, 3,021 ; Chafm, prohibitionist, 265. 

Also, at the same election, Arizona voted upon 
a number of constitutional amendments and re- 
ferred bills, the most important of which was 
woman's suffrage, which received the substantial 
endorsement of the people in a vote of 13,452 for 
to 6,202 against. 

Here it may be said that the only surprising 
thing about granting the women of Arizona the 
franchise is that it wasn't given them sooner. Un- 
doubtedly they would have voted years earlier if 
the politicians had been of the same mind as the 
average citizen. 

Equality between the sexes in the state, when 
one comes to think of it, certainly has the sanction 
of antiquity. It existed to a surprising extent 
among the aboriginal races. With the intelligent 
Hopis, the woman builds the house — and rules it — 



ARIZONA AT LAST A STATE 355 

just as the man tills the field and is master there. 
Membership in the tribal clans, which is a birth- 
right, descends through the mother; and the girl, 
quite as often as the youth, takes the initiative in 
proposing marriage. 

In the case of the Zunis, "the children belong 
to the mother, and she can order the husband from 
the house should occasion arise." 

As has been mentioned elsewhere in this his- 
tory, the Navajo woman occupies quite as impor- 
tant a place in the tribal life as a man. She knows 
her rights and isn't afraid to assert them. 

Whether the women of the white pioneers felt 
the influence of this environment we do not pre- 
tend to say, but they certainly occupied no inferior 
part to the men in establishing homes in the 
wilderness. 

In the early Mormon settlements, and there 
were many such in the state, the women not only 
took an active part in the work of the church, but 
also in the matters pertaining to civic duties as 
well. Andrew Kimball, president of one of the 
four principal divisions of the Mormon Church in 
Arizona, in the Twenty-first Legislature, in 1901, 
led the fight for woman suffrage, but was beaten 
by the politicians. Gov. N. O. Murphy, in 1892, 
and Gov. L. C. Hughes, in 1893, favored such a 
measure. For many years women in Arizona have 
voted at school elections, both in the matters of 
bond issue and election of trustees, and they cast 
their ballot with quite as much wisdom — or folly — 
as their male relatives. 



356 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

The truth is that the politicians were afraid of 
the women — afraid they would vote the state 
"dry" — which they did; and afraid they would do 
all sorts of other unreasonable and revolutionary 
things — which they did not — or certainly no more 
than the men. 

At the first election for state officers following 
her enfranchisement, two women were elected as 
members of the state legislature, Mrs. Frances W. 
Munds, of Prescott, to the Senate, and Mrs. Rachel 
Berrj% of Apache County, to the House. Two years 
later, in 1917, Mrs. P. M. O'Neill, of Phoenix,^ who 
had also been elected a presidential elector in 
1914, Mrs. Theodore Marsh, of Nogales, and Mrs. 
Rosa McKay, of Bisbee, were members of the 
House. The political records of these women com- 
pare very favorably with those of the masculine 
members. All have been democrats, and, with 
possibly one exception, most ardent partisans. 
They have been industrious, capable, anything 
but frivolous; and, as might have been expected, 
conspicuous champions of all moral measures. 
Whether any great matters of public policy in 
Arizona have been changed owing to woman's pos- 
session of the ballot (with the possible exception 
of prohibition) is to be doubted; on the other hand, 
none of manj-^ predicted disasters have come to 
pass. The usual procedure is for a husband and 
wife to look over the sample ballot and decide for 
whom they both will vote. Perhaps conjugal 
opinions are apt to differ more as to the merits 
of proposed initiative or referendum measures 



ARIZONA AT LAST A STATE 357 

than as to candidates. One thing is certain, Ari- 
zona women as a whole have proven that they 
exercise the right of franchise quite as intelli- 
gently as the male citizens. For the credit of the 
masculine sex, we hope this may be taken as a 
favorable comment. 

A bill limiting the railroad fare to three cents 
a mile was passed by the First State Legislature 
and approved by the people in a referendum vote 
in the fall of 1914; nevertheless, when it came up 
as a factor in a case before the Supreme Court, 
it was decided that changes in public service 
charges could only be made by the corporation 
commission. 

Other initiative measures which carried at the 
1914 election included one prohibiting blacklisting 
of laborers, an old age and mothers' pension act 
and an "Act to Protect Citizens of the United 
States in the Employment of Non-citizens of the 
United States in Arizona." 

All three of these measures were later declared 
unconstitutional by the courts. 

By far the most important initiative measure 
passed by the people that fall was that prohibiting 
the manufacture or sale of intoxicating liquors, 
which carried with a majority cf 3,144, the greatest 
strength for the measure coming, as might be ex- 
pected, from agricultural sections. 

If in the pioneer days a man had predicted that 
the time would come when Arizona would vote 
itself "dry," he would have been considered a fit 
subject for an alienist. 



358 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

In those times an Arizonan who didn't take an 
occasional drink was looked upon with decided 
suspicion. 

Among the elements that made for Arizona's 
first governor's popularity were, according to 
Parish, that "He enjoyed a toddy, liked a game of 
'draw,' and was pleasant, affable and courteous 
to everyone." 

Yet Governor Safford, as early as 1874, stated 
that nine-tenths of the crimes of the day were due 
to ardent spirits. 

In 1884 a visit of Miss Frances Willard to 
Tucson resulted in the organization of a territorial 
W. C. T. U. A few months before a local branch 
had been established at Prescott and later branches 
were started in Phoenix and other places in 
Arizona. 

In 1901 a local option bill was passed by the 
Twenty-first Territorial Legislature, and in Novem- 
ber, 1914, as has been stated, the voters of the state 
passed a prohibition measure as a constitutional 
amendment. 

While the women were very active in the fall 
campaign against the " Demon Rum," they would 
scarcely have won without the help of the "average 
business man," and the average business man voted 
"dry" not because he considered the drinking of 
intoxicating liquors sinful, but because he be- 
lieved that its use made most men less efficient 
and did no man any good. Contractors employing 
many laborers had learned that, under local op- 
tion, labor was at least five per cent more efficient 



ARIZONA AT LAST A STATE 359 

in a dry town than in a wet one, so they decided 
that they would like to try the experiment of a 
dry state. 

Generally speaking, the law has been enforced. 
Most sheriffs and city police officers, who in the old 
days took their convivial glass with their friends 
as a matter of course, now see in the question only 
a statute that must be complied with. 

As might be expected, boot-legging has been 
attempted in most of the towns, but it is a pre- 
carious and hazardous business. 

In Phoenix, to cite but a single example, in the 
spring of 1918, a man who was bringing in liquor 
in an automobile was shot while resisting an 
officer. 

To correct deficiencies in the original law 
which enabled the chronically thirsty to ship in 
ardent spirits from wet states, an amendment to 
the constitution was submitted to the people of 
the state at the fall election in 1916. Under this 
additional law it not only was unlawful for anyone 
to ship in liquor, but to have the same in one's 
possession. Exceptions, however, were made 
which allowed the use of wine for sacramental 
purposes and permitted the University of Arizona 
to use grain alcohol for scientific purposes. It 
also provided for the general use of denatured 
alcohol. 

This measure passed by a much larger majority 
than the original law, giving evidence that the peo- 
ple as a whole were satisfied with the experiment. 

In 1914 all the democrats holding state offices 



360 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

secured renomination except Atty.-Gen. G. P. Bul- 
lard, who had resigned, and in November, in 
opposition to the republicans and progressives, 
they were all elected to a man. BuUard was suc- 
ceeded by Wiley E. Jones. Among the others so 
chosen were Governor Hunt, Congressman Hay- 
den, Senator Smith and Secretary Sidney P. 
Osborn. 

When the Legislature convened January 11, 
1915, with fifty-three democrats and one lone re- 
publican, among the many acts passed was one 
prohibiting barbering on Sunday, and another 
creating a bureau of mines at the state university. 
Greenlee County was to be assisted in obtaining 
artesian water and Congress was memorialized to 
have a barbed wire fence built on the International 
Line between Arizona and New Mexico. 

A second session was called to convene April 
23d, and a third June 1, 1915. 

In the summer of 1916 George A. Olney an- 
nounced himself as a democratic candidate for 
governor in opposition to Gov. G. W. P. Hunt. 

Governor Hunt, from his record both when 
president of the Constitutional Convention and as 
governor, was considered the special champion of 
labor and a friend of labor unions and represented 
the more radical wing of his party. Olney, on the 
other hand, was considered a conservative, and 
was supposed to have the backing of the "business 
men." Also, he was accused — a serious indictment 
in the eyes of many a voter — to have the "support" 
of the copper mine owners. 



ARIZONA AT LAST A STATE 361 

In the campaign which followed the adherents 
of the two candidates fought each other with a 
warmth seldom equaled in conflicts between 
parties. 

At the primary election, Hunt was easily the 
victor, winning by a substantial majority. This 
passage at arm, however, proved to be but a pre- 
liminary skirmish; the real battle was to be be- 
tween Governor Hunt and the republican nominee, 
Thos. E. Campbell, who had been his party's can- 
didate for Congress in 1912, and had been elected 
tax commissioner in 1914. 

The republican party in the state was un- 
doubtedly in the minority, but with the conserva- 
tive element in the democratic party wholly 
opposed to Hunt, it was believed that Campbell 
had a good chance to be elected. Still, with Hunt's 
undoubted strength among the working people and 
the radicals, his followers predicted an easy vic- 
tory for their chief. 

When election day was over and the returns 
began to come in, it was seen that the vote would 
be very close. Finally, after a season of suspense, 
the official count gave Campbell a plurality of 
just thirty votes. 

As was expected, a contest was at once started 
by Governor Hunt with Eugene Ives as counsel. 
Later F. C. Struckmeyer, L. B. Whitney and Frank 
E. Curley were also put on the case. Campbell's 
lawyers were Ex-Gov. R. E. Sloan, Judge John H. 
Campbell, John L. Gust, E. S. Clark and the firm 
of Ballard & Jacobs. The case was tried before 



362 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Judge R. E. Stanford, in whose court judicial in- 
spection of ballots began December 12th, and, with 
many interruptions, continued to May 21, 1917. 

In the meantime, on January 1, 1917, on a writ 
of mandamus issued by the Supreme Court, Camp- 
bell entered upon his duties as de facto governor — 
with honors but without salary — pending the final 
judgment of the court. 

Here is may be said that during the period Gov- 
ernor Campbell occupied the executive chair, he 
made a most excellent governor, although, with a 
Legislature containing but one republican, it was 
scarcely possible for him to do much towards 
influencing lawTiiaking. Nevertheless, being a 
man of striking personality^ and tact, he filled his 
trjdng position with ability and dignity. When 
the strikes at the copper mines grew serious, he 
went at once to Globe, and in his endeavors to 
reconcile the differences between employers and 
laborers he showed sympathy for the workmen 
with a real grievance as well as an appreciation 
of the rights of property owners. 

In the Bisbee deportation trouble he was as firm 
in denouncing the lawless methods employed by 
those responsible for the deportation and the subse- 
quent arbitrary methods used in dealing with "labor 
agitators" as he was in expressing his condemna- 
tion of the I. W. W., whose seditious doctrines and 
threatened violence had precipitated the affair. In 
the governor's words: ". . . The principles of 
the Industrial Workers of the World are a stench 
in the nostrils of decent Americans. Insofar as 



ARIZONA AT LAST A STATE 363 

my power as governor of Arizona extends, I shall 
not tolerate, in the remotest degree, their applica- 
tion in Arizona. A menace to civil well being and 
industrial progress in time of peace, the toleration 
of such doctrines during a state of war is treason. 

The contest before Judge Stanford was finally 
decided in favor of Governor Campbell, the court 
ruling that he was elected by a plurality of sixty- 
seven votes. 

An appeal to the Supreme Court of the state 
was taken May 15th, and on December 22, 1917, 
that body reversed the decision of the trial court, 
announcing through Chief Justice Franklin "That 
the said George W. P. Hunt was . . . and is 
now the duly elected governor of the state of Ari- 
zona . . . that he is entitled to the office with 
all its official belongings, and since the first Mon- 
day in January, 1917, to all of its emoluments." 
The change in the recount in the precincts con- 
sidered by the Supreme Court gave Hunt a ma- 
jority of thirty. 

Perhaps there has never been a man active in 
Arizona politics who has been so cordially liked 
by his friends as is Governor Hunt, nor so whole- 
heartedly execrated by his enemies, who say he is 
a demagogic politician. However, a demagog 
doesn't often do things from principle that he 
knows will make him political enemies. Governor 
Hunt did them every day. A student of crimi- 
nology, in the face of violent criticism he made 
radical changes in disciplinary measures at the 
state prison, abolishing the ball and chain, the 



364 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

silence system, the tight-cropped head, and the 
conspicuous uniform. He sent convicts, on their 
honor, out to work upon highways without guards. 
At times his confidence has been sadly abused, but 
even though he carried his theories to an extreme 
that he has done more good than harm by his 
prison methods no one who has investigated his 
work can deny. 

As a farmer boy, his parents, living in a dis- 
trict in Missouri impoverished by the Civil War, 
were unable at times to buy him proper school 
books. As a man he put a measure through the 
Legislature granting free textbooks to Arizona 
school children. 

His popularity in his home, Gila County, is 
shown in the fact that it sent him to the Legislature 
for six different terms. 

The Third Legislature convened January 8, 
1917, and in some mysterious manner it appeared 
that five republicans had secured election to the 
Senate and four to the House. The rest were 
democrats, and among the ninety laws enacted may 
be mentioned one for the establishment of free 
employment bureaus in the state, an act appro- 
priating $200 for painting the portraits of certain 
legislative officers, establishing two game preserves 
and an act abolishing the "common" towel and the 
"common" drinking cup. 

At the primaries held in September, 1918, Fred 
T. Colter, a prominent member of the Constitu- 
tional Convention and two succeeding legislatures, 
was given the democratic nomination for governor. 
Colter, who was supposed to represent the radical 



ARIZONA AT LAST A STATE 365 

wing of his party, was opposed in the primaries 
by Fred Sutter, conservative, and Sidney P. Osborn, 
who was inclined more to the "middle of the road." 

In the republican ranks, ex-Governor Campbell 
was the one nominee, his large vote at the election 
two years earlier and his excellent record while 
occupying the governor's chair, preceding the 
supreme court decision which unseated him, mak- 
ing him the one logical candidate. 

At the November election, in spite of the fact 
that Arizona is normally democratic by a sub- 
stantial majority. Governor Campbell received 
25,927 votes against 25,588 cast for Colter. George 
D. Smith, socialist candidate for the office, re- 
ceived 444. 

Campbell's plurality of 339 was considered not 
only a tribute to his undeniable personal popu- 
larity, but an endorsement of his uncompromising 
stand, during the labor troubles of 1917, against 
the I. W. W.'s and all that they represented as 
well as a victory for a more conservative political 
doctrine as opposed to Colter's presumed extreme 
radicalism. 

Maj. Carl Hayden, democrat, whose proven 
ability and loyal services to Arizona in the Na- 
tional House of Representatives gave him a strong 
following in Arizona among republicans, in addi- 
tion to his constituents within his own party, was 
returned to Congress by a vote of 26,815 against 
16,822 cast for Lieut. Thomas Maddock, republican, 
then with the American army in France, and 754 
for P. T. Robertson, socialist. 



366 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Ten proposed laws were submitted to the vote 
of the people, all of which carried except one, a 
workman's compensation act in case of injury, 
etc., prepared, presumably, by the mine owners 
and opposed by the labor unions. 

The other nine bills included restoration of 
public works to the contract system, restoration of 
capital punishment, redistricting state legislative 
districts so that house members would be elected 
from smaller units and an anti-vaccination 
measure. 

Fourteen democrats and five republicans were 
sent to the state senate; while for the house, the 
count of ballots showed twenty-six democrats and 
nine republicans elected. 

STATE FLOWER, ANTHEM AND FLAG 

Arizona has its own official flower, anthem and 
flag. Its flower is the white, wax-like blossom of 
the Suhuaro (the Cereus giganteus) which puts 
forth its petals in June. Its anthem, "Hail to Ari- 
zona! the Sun-kissed Land," was written by Mrs. 
Frank Cox and Mrs. Elise R. Averill. Both flower 
and anthem were adopted by the Twenty-first Ter- 
ritorial Legislature. 

The flag, which was adopted by the Third State 
Legislature, is described as representing the 
"copper star of Arizona rising from a blue field in 
the face of the setting sun." 




LAKE MARY 

On Automobile Road South of Flagstaff 

Photogniph by James MoCuUocli 



Chapter XXIV 
SCENIC ARIZONA 



THE GRAND CANYON 

IN Arizona, Nature reveals herself in many ways 
of unusual grandeur and beauty. The desert 
in moonlight, with the giant cacti standing 
like ghostly sentinels guarding the wide expanse 
of plain; the Painted Desert, which at sunrise, 
with the different colored rocks and stretches of 
red and brown earth, has the effect of a gorgeous 
striped ribbon; the San Francisco Peaks, snow- 
clad; the glory of the views on the Apache Trail; 
the purple shadows in the early morning on the 
west escarpment of the Superstitions; the Roose- 
velt Lake in late evening; the wisps of rain that 
in summer showers fall like bridal veils in the 
canyons of the upper Hassayampa — all these are 
scenes of quite indescribable loveliness; yet, as 
the ghostly rainbow of the moon, sometimes seen 
in the deserts of the southwest, pales before the 
radiant bow of day, so all the wonders of the 
views of which we have hinted become small be- 
fore the majesty and sublimity of the Grand Can- 
yon of the Colorado. 

The greatest writers have tried to describe it, 

367 



368 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

the foremost of our painters have striven to re- 
produce it on canvas, and yet when one sensitive 
to form and color views it for the first time, after 
the minute of silence when the glory of it sinks 
into the soul — one can but murmur as though 
standing in a holy place, under the very mantle 
of the gods, "How could one dream it would be 
like this!" 

What do the statistics mean? The average 
width of the canyon is eight miles, but portions are 
wider. Its sides are a succession of rocky slopes 
and precipitous cliffs, some are huge steps five 
hundred feet straight down. The total descent is 
over a mile below the north rim. 

The river itself is about three hundred feet 
wide and thirty feet deep. 

The walls of the canyon are red, yellow, black, 
gray, brown — painted with a gorgeousness that is 
the artist's despair, and varied by ever-changing 
lights and shadows, by summer showers, by win- 
ter's snows, by clouds that form in the depths of 
this caldron of Nature and rise upward like great, 
white balloons. What do you care whether the 
river is three hundred feet wide or thirty? To 
you, as you watch from Grand View, it is a river 
of platinum, dividing masses of sardonyx, jade and 
turquoise. 

Yet, there is another side to the story, and that 
is where the history part comes in. For years the 
Colorado River, as it flowed between its mighty 
walls, was as unexplored as was the plateau of 
Tibet or the uplands of Bolivia a half century ago. 



SCENIC ARIZONA 369 

Coronado's soldiers, Don Garcia Lopez de Car- 
denas, Captain Melgosa and Juan Galeras tried 
to descend to the river from the canyon rim and 
failed. Gen. W. H. Ashley, leader of a fur-trading 
expedition, in 1825, while descending Green River, 
a Utah tributary of the Colorado, became trapped 
between the walls of the canyon but finally escaped 
before really reaching the heart of the gorge. 
Lieutenant Ives, in his Arizona explorations, en- 
tered the Black Canyon from the lower river, but 
turned back, dismayed by the towering, flanking 
walls. 

So the canyon was ever an unaccepted chal- 
lenge until one day Maj. John Wesley Powell, a 
one-armed veteran of the Civil War and a pro- 
fessor of geology, came along and took the dare. 
On May 24, 1869, with nine companions in four 
boats, he embarked at Green River City, Wyoming, 
and, after shooting innumerable rapids and whirl- 
pools, with adventures piled upon adventures, 
with many a danger passed, with many a hair- 
breadth escape, on August 30th, all but three of 
the party reached in safety the mouth of the Rio 
Virgin. As for the missing three — about the 
middle of August, when near the end of the granite 
stretches, the rapids ahead looked so forbidding 
that Seneca and O. G. Rowlands and W. H. Dunn 
decided rather than further court drowning to 
withdraw from the party. They took firearms, 
but, as provisions were very low would accept no 
food, expecting to find game enough to exist upon. 
After infinite toil they succeeded in climbing out 



370 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

of the canyon, only to be slain a few days later 
by a band of Ute Indians, while the rest of the 
party passed the forbidding rapids in safety. 

A second expedition was undertaken by Powell 
in 1871. This time he received $10,000 from the 
Government to help defray expenses, and in addi- 
tion to navigating the canyon, he undertook to 
survey the country for twelve miles each side of 
the gorge. 

Besides Powell the party included A, H. Thomp- 
son, topographer, and F. S. Dellenbaugh, an artist 
and writer, and eight others. Again taking Green 
River City as a starting point, the journey was 
commenced May 22d, and on October 22d the party 
reached Lee's Ferry. 

On August 13, 1872, after much topographical 
work had been done, seven of the original party, 
including Powell, once more embarked, and after 
passing through Marble Canyon and one hundred 
miles of the Grand Canyon, reached the mouth of 
Kanab Wash, September 7, 1872, where high water 
made it expedient to abandon the trip. 

Capt. G. M. Wheeler, in 1871, headed a party 
that started from Camp Mojave, on the lower 
Colorado, on September 15th. After a most ardu- 
ous trip the expedition reached the mouth of 
Diamond Creek, north of Peach Springs, on Octo- 
ber 20th, when it was considered impractical to 
proceed farther. 

In 1889 Frank M. Brown, a Denver capitalist, 
impelled by the daring notion that a railroad could 
be built through the Grand Canyon to the Gulf of 



SCENIC ARIZONA 371 

California, attempted to pass through the gorge on 
a reconnaissance. Starting down the Green River 
there were with him fifteen men in six very light 
boats. Disaster followed the party at every turn. 
Brown lost his life fifteen miles below Lee's Ferry, 
and, four days thereafter, two more of the expedi- 
tion were drowned in Marble Canyon. 

Undaunted by the death of his leader, in 
1889-90, R. B. Staunton, Brown's engineer, with 
better built boats, made the voyage through the 
entire series of canyons, down the Colorado to the 
Gulf of California. Starting with eleven men be- 
sides the leader, one of the party, F. A. Nims, had 
a fall in Marble Canyon which broke his leg. He 
was lifted up over a 1,700-foot cliff and carried 
across a plateau to a point where he could be 
reached by wagon. Three others abandoned the 
trip en route. 

A most successful navigation of the river was 
made in 1896-97, when two Mormon trappers, 
Nathan T. Galloway and William Richmond, drove 
two boats of their own manufacture from the 
Wyoming-Utah line to the Needles. 

On September 12, 1909, Julius Stone, accom- 
panied by Nathan T. Galloway as guide and R. 
A. Cogswell, a landscape photographer, with two 
others, outfitted with four flat-bottomed boats, left 
Green River and reached Needles November 15, 
1909. The boats were made by Galloway, and the 
two navigated by him and Stone come through 
without an upset — a remarkable record. 

Two years later, the Kolb brothers, Emery and 



372 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Ellsworth, practical photographers, made the 
voyage through the canyon for the purpose of 
taking motion pictures and other photographs. 
The trip was quite as full of thrills and adventures 
as any that had preceded it, and in addition to the 
really wonderful pictures that were secured, the 
record of their adventures has been made into a 
most interesting book written by Ellsworth L. 
Kolb. 

No account of the Grand Canyon of the Colo- 
rado would be complete that did not mention the 
writings of George Wharton James, who has been 
making pilgrimages along the canyon walls for 
years. James not only has the faculty of observing 
new things with a discerning eye and seeing old 
things from new points of view, but can also tell 
about them in vigorous and picturesque English. 

The canyon may now be visited with comfort, 
via the Sante Fe, which has a branch railroad run- 
ning almost to the very rim. At the terminus is a 
beautiful and commodious hotel. El Tovar. 

AUTOMOBILE ROADS 

With the exception of a few miles of roads 
leading out of Phoenix, Arizona has as yet (in 
1918) no paved state boulevards. Within the state, 
however, there are to be found excellent highways 
through some of the most beautiful country in 
America. Many of these roads have been built 
under the supervision of skillful engineers through 
the mountains with easy grades. In the highlands 



SCENIC ARIZONA 373 

of the state, and often in the desert country, de- 
composed granite, caliche or other good road sur- 
face material, easily accessible, has been used for 
road covering with most excellent results. 

Three National highways cross the state. The 
most northerly of these is the National Old Trails 
road. This enters the state from New Mexico, 
going through Springerville, Holbrook, Flagstaff, 
Ashfork, Kingman, and leaves the state at the 
Needles on the Colorado. Except for a short dis- 
tance in Mojave County, the road crosses a plateau 
a mile or more above sea level where it is cold 
enough for an occasional snow in winter, but 
where, in summer, a delightful climate can be 
found. Almost rainless in June, there will be en- 
countered not infrequently summer showers in 
July and August. The fall months are also fine, 
but after the first of the year there may be winter 
rains or snows. Going northerly from Flagstaff 
and Williams are excellent roads leading to the 
Grand Canyon. 

Very good roads also lead from Flagstaff to 
such points of interest as Oak Creek, where there 
is trout fishing, the cliff dwellings, the San Fran- 
cisco peaks, the Hopi Indian villages and the 
Painted Desert. 

These roads, as well as the one going from 
Flagstaff to Ash Fork, pass through beautiful pine 
forests. From Adamana there is a good road lead- 
ing to the petrified forest, a short drive to the south. 

From Holbrook one can drive southward to the 
White Mountains, a distance of sixty miles or 
thereabouts. 



374 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

The White Mountain trip is a perpetual source 
of surprise to the traveler who associates Ari- 
zona only with the desert and the Gila Monster, 
Here grow pine, fir, spruce and juniper. Here 
wild turkeys and blue grouse are common, and 
trout streams abound. It is a paradise for the 
summer camper and as attractive as the Yellow- 
stone. 

Roads to the Navajo and Hopi Indian Reserva- 
tion leave the Old Trails road at Holbrook, Wins- 
low and Canyon Diablo. 

The Ocean to Ocean Highway also enters the 
state from the east at Springerville, going from 
there in a southwesterly direction over the high 
timber-covered White Mountain plateau to Globe; 
from thence the road leads westward over the 
scenic Apache Trail past the great Roosevelt Reser- 
voir to Phoenix. From Phoenix westward one 
reaches Cahfornia across the desert, either via 
Yuma or Parker. 

The main road connecting the Old Trails road 
with the Ocean to Ocean Highway goes south from 
Ash Fork via Prescott to Phoenix. The road from 
Ash Fork to twenty miles or so south of Prescott 
is in pines, but from this point the road drops down 
through picturesque foothills and finally over 
cacti-covered desert. From Prescott one can make 
very interesting side trips to the Verde Valley, 
where cliff dwellings can be visited, or to the moun- 
tain tops where there is spread out to the view as 
beautiful scenery as any that the world contains. 

There is another road running north from 



SCENIC ARIZONA 375 

Roosevelt along Tonto Creek, through Payson and 
Pine, and then climbs up the mighty Mogollon 
Rim, and crosses the Mogollon plateau to Winslow 
or Flagstaff. Much of this road also is through a 
beautiful pine and oak-covered country. 

The most southerly transcontinental road 
through Arizona is the Borderland Highway, 
which enters the state from El Paso and the east 
along the line of the El Paso and Southwestern 
Railroad. It touches the Mexican border at Doug- 
las, then goes northwest through Tombstone, Tuc- 
son and Florence to Phoenix. Westward from 
Phoenix the traveler takes one of the roads already 
mentioned, to California. 

It is scarcely worth while here to speak other- 
wise than very generally of the condition of these 
roads. Except during times of rain, the northern 
roads are apt to be always in a fairly good condi- 
tion, and after rains the road overseers repair as 
rapidly as possible any damage by storms. The 
highways through the southeastern part of the 
state are also generally good. 

HOTELS 

The residents of the valleys of central and 
southern Arizona claim to have the finest winter 
climate in the world — and prove it. Nowhere 
else does one find in winter such sparkling sun- 
shine, such mildness on February days, such 
radiant skies, such clear, starlit nights and such 
freedom from mists, dews and fog. In the high- 



376 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

lands of Arizona one finds a summer climate as 
perfect as are tlie winter days in the valleys. 
Here one has the same sparkling sunshine but 
with a tonic in the cool, bracing mountain air, 
redolent with the odor of the pines, as refreshing 
as spring water to thirsty lips. 

With these great climatic resources, the two 
parts of the state thus complementing each other, 
it is not strange that everj'^ j^ear increases the 
number of visitors to Arizona. To meet the de- 
mands for modern accommodations for the 
stranger, excellent city hotels have been built, 
such as the Adams, Jefferson and Commerical in 
Phoenix, the Santa Rita in Tucson, the Copper 
Queen in Bisbee, and the Gadsden in Douglas. 
Also along the main line of the Santa Fe are the 
admirably managed, handsome Harvey Hotels at 
Winslow, Williams and Ash Fork. Besides these 
in the state there are three modern tourist hotels 
where the visitor can find all the modern comforts 
and luxuries in a perfect environment. The most 
southerly of these hotels is the San Marcos in the 
suburban town of Chandler, twenty-three miles 
southeast of Phoenix, on the Arizona and Eastern 
Railroad. The buildings are concrete and built at 
a cost of a quarter of a million of dollars. The 
main hotel building fronts a lawn-carpeted court, 
where roses, honeysuckles and other vines climb 
pergola pillars and gray walls. Adjoining the 
hotel on the west is a private park dotted with 
concrete bungalows. This park is noted through- 
out the state for the beauty of its shrubbery and 
flowers. 



SCENIC ARIZONA 377 

The hotel boasts that it provides its guests, 
besides the comforts of a perfectly appointed 
home, the pleasant social life and out-of-door 
sports of a high class country club. To this end, 
in addition to tennis courts and the like, it has an 
eighteen-hole grass-fairway golf links, and as well 
provides a fine stable of saddle horses owned and 
managed by Bill Huggett, the well-known south- 
western guide. 

The Castle Hot Springs Hotel is in the foothills 
of the Bradshaw Mountains, forty miles north of 
Phoenix, and is reached by auto stage from a 
junction of the Santa Fe, Prescott and Phoenix 
Railroad twenty-four miles away. The hotel in- 
cludes three separate buildings and a number of 
cottages. On every hand there are trees, tall palms, 
beautiful walks and drives. The pool, which has 
a natural heat of from 115 to 122 degrees, may be 
enjoyed every day in the year. Tennis courts and 
golf links are also provided. 

Both these hotels are closed in the summer. 
The notable tourist hotel of the northern part of 
the state is El Tovar, built by the Santa Fe Rail- 
road on the rim of the Grand Canyon. Its base 
is limestone rock with a first story of solid logs. 
Its architecture follows in admirable proportion 
the Swiss chalet and the Norway villa. The house 
contains more than a hundred bedrooms, with 
outside porches and a roof garden, where wonder- 
ful views of the canyon can be obtained. The 
lobby, finished like a glorified hunter's lodge, is 
beautiful, comfortable and picturesque. As is the 



378 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

case in all Harvey houses, the service is excellent. 
The hotel is open the year around. The altitude 
here is seven thousand feet, which insures a splen- 
did summer climate but makes overcoats and 
wraps a requisite for winter. A good garage and 
amply equipped stables are maintained for the 
benefit of the guests. 

The Ingleside Club, near Phoenix, might almost 
be classed as a winter tourist hotel, as a limited 
number of guests are accommodated there each 
winter. Consisting of a central building and a 
number of cottages, it is situated in the midst of 
a beautiful orange grove. North of the building 
lies the Arizona Canal, beyond that, on the desert, 
are golf links, and still farther to the north, about 
a mile away, rises picturesque Camelback Moun- 
tain. The Ingleside Club deserves the popularity 
it has always had with its patrons. 



Chapter XXV 
ARIZONA CITIES OF TODAY 



TUCSON 



ELSEWHERE in this volume we have seen 
how Tucson was first an Indian rancheria; 
next, under the care of Padre Garces, the 
environ of the mission of San Agustin, and still 
later the walled presidio of the Spaniards, when, 
with its little garrison of soldiers, it was the one 
place that could withstand the Apaches — the north- 
ern outpost of white civilization. 

In the first decade of the nineteenth century, 
Tucson seems to have attained the apex of its 
prosperity under old Spanish rule. At this time 
it might have contained two or three thousand in- 
habitants, but by 1851, under the republic, it had 
dwindled to less than five hundred. 

With the Gadsden Purchase in 1853, the Amer- 
icans began to arrive. United States soldiers re- 
placed the Mexican troopers, and Tucson took on 
a new prosperity. 

In 1859 or '60 the first newspaper of the state, 
the weekly Arizonian, including press, type, title 
and good will, was brought from Tubac. Already 
there was a flour mill in the town, and American 
stores, saloons and shops followed steadily. 

379 



380 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

No one gives a better description of the Tucson 
of 1869 than does Capt. John G. Bourke. This is 
what he saw as he first approached the ancient 
pueblo : 

"That fringe of emerald green in the 'bottom' 
is the barley land surrounding Tucson; those 
gently waving cottonwopds outline the shriveled 
course of the Santa Cruz ; those trees with the dark, 
waxy-green foliage are the pomegranates behind 
Juan Fernandez's corral. There is the massive 
wall of the church of San Antonio now; we see 
streets and houses, singly or in clusters, buried in 
shade or unsheltered from the vertical glare of 
the most merciless of suns. Here are pigs staked 
out to wallow in congenial mire — that is one of 
the charming customs of the Spanish Southwest; 
and these — ah, yes, these are dogs, unchained and 
running amuck after the heels of the horses, an- 
other most charming custom of the country. 

"Here are 'burros' browsing upon tin cans — 
still another institution of the country — and here 
are the hens and chickens, and the houses of 
mud, of one story, flat, cheerless and monotonous 
were it not for the crimson 'rastras' of chile which, 
like mediaeval banners, are flung to the outer wall. 
And women, young and old, wrapped up in 're- 
bosos' and 'tapalos,' which conceal all the coun- 
tenance but the left eye; and men enfolded in 
cheap poll-parrotty blankets of cotton, busy in 
leaning against the door-posts and holding up the 
weight of 'sombreros' as large in diameter as cart 
wheels and surrounded by snakes of silver bullion, 
weighing almost as much as the wearers. 



ARIZONA CITIES OF TODAY 381 

"The horses are moving rapidly down the nar- 
row street without prick of spur. The wagons are 
creaking merrily, pulled by energetic mules whose 
efforts need not the urging of rifle-cracking whip 
in the hands of skillful drivers. It is only because 
the drivers are glad to get to Tucson that they 
explode the long, deadly blacksnakes, with which 
they can cut a welt out of the flank or brush a 
fly from the belly of any animal in their team. 
All the men are whistling or have broken out in 
glad carol. Each heart is gay, for we have at last 
reached Tucson, the commercial entrepot of Ari- 
zona and the remoter Southwest — Tucson, the 
Mecca of the dragoon, the Naples of the desert, 
which one was to see and die; Tucson, whose alkali 
pits yielded water sweeter than Well of Zenzen, 
whose maidens were more charming, whose 
society was more hospitable, merchants more pro- 
gressive, magazines better stocked, climate more 
dreamy, than any town from Santa Fe to Los 
Angeles; from Hermosillo, in Sonora, to the 
gloomy chasm of the Grand Canyon — with one 
exception only: its great rival, the thoroughly 
American town of Prescott, in the bosom of the 
pine forests, amid the granite crags of the foothills 
of the Mogollon." 

Gamp Lowell at that time was located in the 
eastern edge of the town, and the officers ate with 
the leading citizens at the "Shoo Fly" restaurant, 
where the captain said the flies wouldn't shoo 
worth a cent. 

There were, of course, no railroads, pavements 



382 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

there were none, street lamps were unheard of, 
drainage was not deemed necessary. Garbage was 
conveniently thrown in the street and Bourke says 
the age of the garbage piles was distinctly defined 
by geological strata. "In the lowest portion of all 
one could often find arrow-heads and stone axes, 
indicative of a pre-Columbian origin; superim- 
posed conformably over these, as the geologists 
used to say, were skins of chile Colorado, great 
pieces of rusty spurs, and other reliquiae of the 
'Conquistadores,' while high above all stray cards, 
tomato cans, beer bottles and similar evidences of 
a higher and nobler civilization told just how long 
the Anglo-Saxon had called the territory his own." 

The gambling saloons of Tucson of the '70s we 
have referred to elsewhere. We may only add that 
in '69 Bourke writes that whatever may be said 
against them, they were enterprising; while all the 
other houses still had earth treated with bullock's 
blood for flooring the big saloons provided lumber 
for the patrons to walk on. 

In the late '60s or '70s the activities of the com- 
mercial princes of Tucson were comparable to 
those of the merchants of Venice, for to bring in 
goods in guarded mule trains from Guaymas, San 
Diego or Santa Fe was as formidable a task as for 
the Venetian to import his merchandise from 
Cipango or the islands of the Indies. 

Instead of baseball the Spanish element at 
least had chicken fights, for "movies" they had 
theatricals from Mexico, but the one great social 
function was the baile. Again to quote Bourke, 



ARIZONA CITIES OF TODAY 383 

who had been there : "The ballroom was one long 
apartment, with earthen floor, having around its 
sides low benches, and upon its walls a few cheap 
mirrors and half a dozen candles stuck to the 
adobe by melted tallow, a bit of moist clay, or else 
held in tin sconces, from which they emitted the 
sickliest light upon the heads and forms of the 
highly colored saints whose pictures were to be 
seen in the most eligible places. 

"After the 'baile' was over, the rule was for the 
younger participants to take the music and march 
along the streets to the houses of the young ladies 
who had been prevented from attending, and 
there, under the window, or rather in front of the 
window — because all the houses were of one story, 
and a man could not get under the windows unless 
he crawled on hands and knees — pour forth their 
souls in a serenade." "La Paloma" was always 
sung, so was "La Golondrina." Here is one song 
that Bourke quotes, guitar accompaniment and all : 

"No me mires con esos tus ojos, 
(Fluke-fluky-fluke; plink, planky-plink) 
Mas hermosos que el sol en el cielo, 
(Plinky-plinky; plinky-plinky) 
Que me miras de dicha y consuelo, 
(Fluky, fluky-fluke; plink-plink) 
Que me mata ! que me mata ! tu mirar. 
(Plinky-plink, fluky-fluke; plinky-plink; fluke- 
fluke.)" 

The houses of these pleasant early Spanish 
families were of adobe, but the courtesy of the 
host made them palaces, and the senorita's dress 



384 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

of cotton was transformed to satin and lace by 
the air of the wearer, the rose in her hair and by 
the smile on her lips. 

" 'Ah ! happy the eyes that gaze upon thee' was 
the form of salutation to friends who had been 
absent for a space — 'Dichosos los ojos que ven 
a V,' 'Go thou with God,' was the gentle mode of 
saying farewell, to which the American guest 
would respond, as he shifted the revolvers on his 
hip and adjusted the quid of tobacco in his mouth: 
'Wa-al, I reckon I'll git.' " 

The town's weekly newspaper. The Arizonian, 
seems to have lasted until a short time after the 
establishment of the Citizen, October 15, 1870, by 
John Wasson. Wasson, according to Bourke, was 
an energetic individual who was a perpetual won- 
der to the easy-going Mexicans. He published 
editorials favoring the establishment of schools! 
He wanted the streets lighted at night; he even 
objected to a dead burro that had lain only for 
a day or two on the main street. 

Valgame! What was the matter with the man? 
It would be removed in a week any way without 
all of this fuss. These Americanos! Always in a 
hurry as though the Devil were after them. 

In March, 1877, Tucson — and Arizona — had its 
first daily paper in the Bulletin, four columns to 
the page, and had real telegraphic news — when 
the Government line to San Diego wasn't down. 

After a few months of struggle the Bulletin 
died a natural death and was followed by the tri- 
weekly Star, edited by Louis C. Hughes, after- 



ARIZONA CITIES OF TODAY 385 

wards governor of Arizona. The Star later was 
changed to a daily, and is still one of Tucson's 
leading papers, the evening daily being the 
Citizen. 

Tucson was incorporated in 1872, with officers 
as follows: Mayor, Sidney R. DeLong; Alder- 
men, W. S. Oury, W. W. Williams, Samuel Hughes 
and Charles O. Brown. 

The main thoroughfare of the town — Congress 
Street — was named after Brown's famous gam- 
bling saloon, Congress Hall. A number of streets 
were named after pioneers who had been killed 
by Apaches. 

Never did Tucson give itself over to rejoicing 
more than it did on March 17, 1880, the day when 
the Southern Pacific, building from the west, 
reached the city. When the train pulled in every- 
body and his dog was waiting to receive it, to say 
nothing of the Sixth Cavalry band from Fort 
Lowell, which blew itself purple in the face with 
enthusiasm. 

The address of welcome was made by the old 
pioneer. Col. W. S. Ourj', and a silver spike from 
the Tough Nut mine was presented to President 
Crocker by Don Estavan Ochoa, one of Tucson's 
most distinguished citizens. 

Tucson's second railroad was the Southern 
Pacific branch to Nogales. The celebration was 
held May 5, 1910, a holiday to the Mexicans, in 
honor of the day, in 1862, when General Zaragosa 
defeated the French at Puebla. They had a great 
time. Governor Sloan of Arizona, Governor Tor- 



386 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

res of Sonora, and Governor Redo of Sinaloa were 
all guests of honor. There was a banquet, of 
course, and much speaking, and as the country 
editor says, "A good time was enjoyed by all." 

The El Paso and Southwestern reached Tucson 
in November, 1912. By that time the coming of a 
railroad had grown to mean a holiday as much as 
did the Fourth of July, and everybody celebrated 
again. 

Tucson is now a real city. It claims to be the 
metropolis of the state; so does Phoenix, but as 
Admiral Schley once aptly said, "There are honors 
enough for all." Certainly the old Pueblo has 
acquired a decidedly metropolitan style. She has 
paved her streets, erected handsome building 
structures, churches, schools, club houses, theaters, 
a fine public library and a hundred thousand 
dollar Y. M. C, A. In addition to all this there is 
the University of Arizona, with its really splendid 
buildings and beautiful campus, which the city 
tosses into the credit side of its balances just for 
good measure. 

The last time we were in Tucson we looked 
for traces of the ancient Spanish town, but they 
are about all gone. Its residence streets, lined 
with comfortable looking bungalows, might be a 
part of Los Angeles; its best dwellings would be 
notable anywhere. 

PHOENIX 

The first settlement in the Salt River Valley 
was gathered about a flour mill built by W. D. 



I 



ARIZONA CITIES OF TODAY 387 

Hellings, the ruins of which may still be seen near 
Phoenix, just east of the State Hospital for the 
Insane. The machinery for the mill, upon which 
construction was started in 1869, was brought in 
on freight wagons from California. This settle- 
ment was first called Mill City, later East Phoenix. 

Being on a stage road leading to both Wicken- 
burg and Fort McDowell, settlers used to meet at 
the stage station and talk of the latest Apache 
depredation, of the exorbitant charges levied by 
the stage company, and how they wished some- 
body would start an ice plant so they could get 
some decent beer. 

The saloon that may have induced the latter 
remarks was kept by Major McKinney, and close 
to that was a store conducted by Captain Han- 
cock. 

On October 20, 1870, f eehng in their bones that 
a great city should be started in their neighbor- 
hood, the citizens met at the residence of a Mr. 
Moore and appointed a committee to select a site. 

"Lord" Darrell Duppa, Moore and M. P. Griffin 
were the committee, and upon the site they recom- 
mended has been built the present city of Phoenix. 
The name was suggested by Duppa, who proph- 
esied that here a flourishing civilization would 
spring up from the ashes of the departed aborig- 
ines. 

"Lord" Darrell also named Tempe. Indeed, 
the people had a habit of calling on Duppa for 
most anything that demanded taste and erudition, 
for Duppa was a graduate of one of the English 



388 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

universities, speaking French, Spanish and Italian 
and quoting Latin and Greek. Also, in spite of 
bibulous habits and shabby clothes, he was cred- 
ited with belonging to one of the great houses of 
England. Certainly he could spend money like a 
lord for the few days it took him to exhaust the 
check he used to receive regularly from London 
bankers. During the lean days that intervened 
until next check day his friends gladly provided 
food and drink in exchange for his company, for 
he was the beloved vagabond of early Phoenix. 
His acquaintances ever condoned his faults and 
even forgave him for writing poetry. 

The new town was surveyed and mapped by 
Captain Hancock, and in the latter part of 1870 
people showed their faith in Duppa's prophecy by 
iDeginning to buy lots. The first one sold was on 
the southwest corner of Washington and First 
Street, and was bought by Judge Berry, of Pres- 
cott, for $104. The first house to be completed 
was a small adobe building on Washington, be- 
tween Center and First Street, which was then 
known as Montezuma Street. Small as the house 
was it served not only as the office of the local 
justice of the peace, the probate judge, the treas- 
urer, the recorder and the sheriff, but as a court 
room as well. Those were simple and easy times. 

One establishment of undeniable importance to 
the pioneers was Mike's brewery, located on Wash- 
ington Street, between First and Second. 

In the spring of 1871 the county offices were 
moved to a small building constructed especially 



ARIZONA CITIES OF TODAY 389 

for them on South First Avenue, between Wash- 
ington and Jefferson, where in September, 1872, 
the first school was held. The teacher was J. D. 
Daroche. Phoenix's second school building was 
located on North Central Avenue, in the present 
Central School block. Lumber for the floor was 
furnished by John Y. T. Smith, the first resident 
of the valley, who soon afterwards married the 
schoolmistress, Miss Nellie Shaver. 

Phoenix's first postmaster was George E. 
Mowry. 

The town was incorporated February 25, 
1881, with John T. Alsap, mayor, and J. H. Burtis, 
T. W. Brown, J. M. Cotton and W. T. Smith, coun- 
cilmen. 

Although most of the residences, as well as 
many of the business houses, of Phoenix in the 
'80s were of adobe, it was really an attractive 
place. All the residence streets were lined with 
Cottonwood trees, under which ran tiny irrigation 
ditches. There were not many lawns, but yards 
were filled with flowers, vines and fruit trees. 

Where the city hall now is was a grove of cot- 
tonwoods, in whose shade in July an Indian or so 
could usually be seen burying his face in a water- 
melon — for no Georgia darkey ever had a finer 
appreciation of watermelon than the Redman. 

Arizona has had many public benefactors. 
There were Generals Crook and Miles, who tamed 
the savage natives; there was Frederick H. Newell, 
who made the Roosevelt Dam possible; but the 
greatest of them all in a land where, in summer. 



390 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

the mercury soars like prices in war time, was 
Samuel D. Lount, who in 79 or '80 started an ice 
factory in Phoenix, and to the consternation of 
the Indians and the amazement of the "Hassay- 
amper," made perfectly clear, cold ice in July. It 
is a wonder Phoenix hasn't given him a statue. 

In this connection it may be of interest to men- 
tion the means of refrigeration that existed in 
Arizona in an earlier day. To cool drinking water 
there was the olla, or Indian water jar. It was 
made of clay and, baked without a glaze, was quite 
porous. After being covered with several layers 
of gunny sacking or other porous cloth, it would 
be hung in the shade, where the breeze, striking 
the wet and dripping side surfaces, would keep 
the water cool even on the hottest days. A desert 
refrigerator was sometimes made by utilizing the 
same principle. A frame with shelves would be 
covered with coarse cloth and water from a supply 
above would be made to trickle down just fast 
enough to keep the cloth thoroughly wet. Inside 
milk would keep cool and sweet when outside the 
thermometer stood at one hundred. 

The greatest icriticism that could be made 
against the physical aspect of early Phoenix was 
that the sidewalks, except on Washington Street, 
in front of the saloons, and a few other large busi- 
ness houses, were of native earth. This was all 
right during the 325 or so days when it didn't rain, 
but when it did — ! 

Well, we had a friend who was most attentive 
to a young lady. The lady was to sing at a "party" 



ARIZONA CITIES OF TODAY 391 

given by a local "society leader." The evening of 
the party it rained, and the sidewalks of the town 
were one continuous gooey, glutinous mass. A 
"hack" had recently been purchased by an enter- 
prising liveryman and our friend took his lady 
to the party therein. So far everything was as 
lovely as the young lady's smile, or the young 
lady's gown. 

The hack stopped in front of the social leader's 
house. There was no strip of red carpet running 
from the door to the curb. There was, however, 
a narrow path flanked by seas of mud. Between 
the hack and the path ran a small, tricky, irriga- 
tion ditch; in fair weather a delight to the eye — 
now no less than an insult. Young Lochinvar 
planted a foot on each side of the ditch, and held 
out a pair of muscular arms to the young lady. 

"I'll lift you right over," he said pleasantly. 
The confidence he placed in his strong arms was 
not misplaced. He lifted! But, alas, his treach- 
erous legs were standing in still more treacherous 
mud. His right foot started sliding north, the left 
one slid to the south. What happened to the young 
lady? Will the gentle reader kindly join the rain 
clouds in their weeping! The young man, di- 
rected by circumstances wholly beyond his control, 
laid the young lady gently downward, flat on her 
back, in the muddy water of the ditch. 

Later that evening she sang, draped elegantly 
in a lace window curtain, but the coldness between 
the young man and the young woman, induced by 
the dampness, never thawed. 



392 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Ever since 1887 Phoenix has had street rail- 
ways. The first cars were drawn by mules, and if 
a housewife on Grand Avenue had company for 
dinner, the driver was ever ready to stop at Ed 
Eisle's bakery and get a loaf of bread or a dozen 
rolls for her. 

The first newspaper to be published in Phoenix 
was the weekly Salt River Valley Herald, with 
Charles E. McClintock as editor. In 1879 the paper 
was changed to a semi-weekly, and soon after that 
to a daily. After McClintock's death, in 1881, N. A. 
Morford, who later was Arizona's secretary, owned 
and managed the paper until it was merged with 
the Republican in 1899. 

The Arizona Gazette was started as a daily, 
Mondays excepted, in 1880, by H. H. and Charles 
C. McNeal, with W. O. O'Neill as editor. For many 
years after 1887 the paper was edited by John C. 
Dunbar, who, when writing editorials against po- 
litical enemies, it is said, used to fill his ink well 
with vitriol and heat his pen red hot. As a demo- 
cratic evening paper it is now owned by H. A. 
Tritle, son of ex-Governor Tritle, and Charles 
Akers, formerly secretary of the territory. It has 
Associated Press leased wire service. 

The Arizona Republican began its career May 
19, 1890, with Ed Gill as manager and Charles O. 
Zieganfuss, editor. After passing through several 
hands it was acquired by its present owners, 
Dwight B. Heard, one of Arizona's most prominent 
men, and his associates. It is progressive repub- 
lican in politics, and, like the Gazette, has Asso- 



ARIZONA CITIES OF TODAY 393 

ciated Press leased wire service. Through many 
of its years its editor-in-chief has been J. W. Spear, 
one of the ablest newspaper men of the Southwest. 
Several years ago Charles A. StaufTer, its energetic 
manager, did a most notable and commendable 
thing in deleting from the paper's columns all ad- 
vertisements of patent medicines. 

Phoenix has seen the rise and fall of many an 
ably edited and well printed magazine, including 
the Graphic and The Call of the Desert, but which 
were unable to receive financial support to long 
keep them going. The state's present magazine, 
The Arizona, has survived eight volumes and four 
numbers, under the able editorship of C. S. Scott, 
who has served on the staff of both the Herald and 
the Republican, and has been a decided asset to 
the commonwealth. The magazine devotes itself 
exclusively to things pertaining to the Southwest. 

The first railroad to reach Phoenix was the 
Maricopa and Phoenix, whose name indicates its 
termini. It was completed in 1887, and when the 
engine came puffing and perspiring into Phoenix 
on a hot Fourth of July morning the town, in spite 
of the altitude of the mercury, had quite a cele- 
bration. The road is now a part of the Arizona 
Eastern system. 

The Santa Fe, Prescott & Phoenix, building 
down from Ash Fork, arrived in Phoenix in March, 
1895. There was a complication about the road's 
right of way into the town, but one morning in the 
gray of early dawn the trackmen laid the ties and 
rails from the city's edge down to the center of 



394 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

population and had a train in before anybody was 
awake enough to object. Whatever the complica- 
tion was, it was soon forgotten, and the city had a 
regular Tucson flood of oratory in welcoming it. 
Tom Fitch, Arizona's silver-tongued orator, who 
had helped to orate the Southern Pacific into 
Tucson, again burst forth into eloquence before 
an enthusiastic audience of Arizonans, who were 
ever ready to welcome a railroad into its midst 
and abuse it roundly when once it had got it there. 

The modem city of Phoenix may be said to 
have had its beginnings when, on April 7, 1914, it 
adopted a commission form of government. W. A. 
Parish, a very capable civil engineer, was the first 
city manager. Phoenix now has many miles of 
paved streets, and its public buildings, including 
the state capitol, the Federal building, the Public 
Library, the Y. M. C. A., the Water Users' building 
and many handsome churches, would be a credit 
to any metropolis. 

In a state noted for its excellent school build- 
ings those of Phoenix are especially conspicuous. 
Over a million dollars has been spent to provide 
accommodations for its four thousand scholars. 

A genial climate, which permits the growth of 
date and fan palms, of eucalyptus and peppers, 
many semi-tropical shrubs and plants, which keeps 
flowers blooming the winter through, gives wide 
latitude to local landscape gardeners. In conse- 
quence the city's many beautiful dwellings are en- 
hanced by the wealth of greener>^ that surrounds 
them, making them a perpetual delight to the eye. 



ARIZONA CITIES OF TODAY 395 

PRESCOTT 

Modern Prescott is a long cry from the town of 
the pioneer days, of the log cabin and the flimsy 
shack when court wasf held at Fort Misery and 
fried venison was served with chile at the Juniper 
House. It is also a long cry from Mrs. Stephen's 
one-room school of sixty-five to the grammar and 
high school that now adorn Gurley Street and give 
prestige to the city. 

However disastrous it may have been to indi- 
viduals, perhaps the greatest good fortune that 
ever visited Prescott was the fire of July 14, 1900, 
that practically demolished the business section of 
the town surrounding the courthouse plaza, for 
from its ashes were built the modern business 
blocks that set the metropolitan stamp on the new 
city. The fire happened before the end of the 
gambling days, and while the ruins still smoked, 
the saloons of Whisky Row moved to the plaza, 
where a barber shop had been installed in the 
band stand, and here they established their faro 
layouts and roulette wheels under the blue sky. 
The loss occasioned by the fire ran above a million 
dollars. 

The Prescott of today is in many respects a 
model little city. Its new courthouse, built of 
native granite, is handsome in design and splen- 
didly constructed. Its banks have heavy deposit 
lists and occupy handsome buildings. Its business 
houses are second to none in the state, and the 
residence portion of the city is in every way worthy 



396 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

of the business center. Prescott is situated in a 
beautiful basin in the mountains, through which 
runs Granite Creek. On three sides mountain 
peaks, covered with pine, juniper and oak, rise 
high against the sky. The altitude of the town, 
about a mile above sea level, gives a climate that is 
never hot in summer, and at the same time has a 
winter just cold enough to be bracing. 

In the Journal Miner, Prescott has a progres- 
sive, well-edited daily. 

BISBEE 

In Bisbee people live, move and have their 
being in terms of copper, which is as it should be, 
for Bisbee is the home of the Copper Queen, the 
Calumet and Arizona, and other copper mines that 
have helped to make the name of Arizona known 
throughout the world. 

Aside from the buildings themselves most cities 
have only two dimensions, length and breadth. 
Bisbee adds a third, up and down. It is situated in 
a steep canyon which, before the white man came, 
was covered with oaks and vines. Then Jack 
Dunn discovered a copper mine, and as a shaft 
can not be easily moved, even to make a conven- 
ient site for a town, in 1880 the oak trees and the 
vines were pulled down, brick and mortar took 
their places, and Tombstone Canyon, in the Mule 
Pass Mountains, became Bisbee. 

Yet, after all, we doubt if the citizens of the 
town would have its natural conditions different. 



ARIZONA CITIES OF TODAY 397 

It makes for picturesqueness, those terraces up the 
steep slopes, and if one upon looking from his 
door yard can see nicely over the roof of his near- 
est neighbor, certainly there is nothing common- 
place about it. At the bottom of the canyon is Main 
Street, the one continuous thoroughfare of the 
town, which, following the contour of the canyon, 
is almost as crooked as a snake with the colic. No 
one should object to that, however, for we all 
know that a curved line is more beautiful than a 
straight one. 

One must not hastily conclude that because 
Bisbee is a mining camp that there is any atmos- 
phere of instability about the town. Copper mines 
grow richer as they go down, and Bisbee people 
say that the town will be there till the Copper 
Queen and the C. & A. strike China. 

And speaking of China, one of the unique tra- 
ditions of Bisbee is that no member of the celestial 
kingdom may remain in town over night. Many 
of the early miners had lived in Nevada and Cali- 
fornia mining districts, where there had been anti- 
Chinese feeling, and they brought their prejudices 
with them. The rule is still supposed to prevail. 

The year 1908 was an unfortunate one for the 
town. In the summer a tremendous flood carried 
thousands of tons of earth from the western hill- 
side, spilling it into the buildings at the bottom of 
the canyon. In the fall a half million dollar fire 
destroyed a portion of the business district, but as 
was the case with Prescott, the new buildings were 
better than the old. In fact, during the last dozen 



398 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

years all of the leading cities of the state have 
acquired the kind of business houses that in the 
East one would scarcely find in cities of under fifty 
thousand inhabitants. Bisbee's standard in public 
buildings and business houses is high. It has a 
department store that is perhaps the finest estab- 
lishment of its kind in the state. There are also 
the usual good schools and well-built churches. 
The Catholics are now erecting a church building 
that will cost in the neighborhood of $75,000. And 
while we are talking in figures we might add that 
Bisbee put $90,000 into its high school. Lowell, 
Warren and Don Luis are the principal suburbs of 
Bisbee. At Lowell is the "Junction" shaft of the "C. 
& A." Also located here are a bank and theater and 
several club houses. 

Warren is the residential town of the district, 
and boasts of land that is either level or having 
a slope that may be termed "gentle" with resi- 
dences surrounded by lawns, shrubbery and flow- 
ers. Just below Warren is the Country Club, the 
center of the social life of the district. Here are 
found golf links, tennis courts and a rifle range. 

Bisbee has three daily newspapers, the Review, 
the Ore and the Square Dealer. 

DOUGLAS 

Douglas, the fourth city in size in the state, had 
its beginning in 1901, and in the seventeen years 
since then has accumulated a population estimated 
at ten thousand. It is entered by three railroads, 



ARIZONA CITIES OF TODAY 399 

and is the home of the great copper smelters of the 
Copper Queen and the Calumet and Arizona. The 
smelters and the railroads have a combined pay- 
roll of about $400,000 a month. 

Built just north of the international line, to the 
south of the city lies Mexico, and on account of its 
location, Douglas is already one of the important 
gateways between the two republics. 

In common with Arizona's other leading cities, 
Douglas has paved streets, trolley cars, a fine hotel 
and substantial business blocks and dwellings. Its 
banks are full of money and its people are pros- 
perous. Almost any of its citizens will admit, if 
pressed hard enough, that Douglas is destined to 
become one of the great cities of the Southwest. 

The city has two daily newspapers. The Inter- 
national and The Dispatch. 

OTHER CITIES 

The more important mining towns of the state 
not already mentioned individually include Globe, 
with about 7,000 people; Miami, 4,000; Clifton, 
6,000; Morenci, 4,000; Metcalf, 3,000; Jerome, 2,500, 
and Clarkdale with about 1,000. The mining com- 
panies operating in these towns follow the most 
modern methods, and their smelters are among 
the best in the world. 

Globe had its beginning in 1876, and its early 
days were enlivened by a lynching where two men, 
John Hawley and Lafayette Grime, were hanged 
on a big sycamore tree, conveniently located on 



400 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

the main street. The present town, like the others 
mentioned, has lost much of its pioneer aspect, 
and, like them, has many well-conducted and 
well-housed business enterprises. Besides being 
reached by the Arizona Eastern Railroad from 
Bowie, Globe is the eastern terminus of the scenic 
Apache Trail, an automobile highway running to 
Mesa and Phoenix. Its daily newspapers are the 
Arizona Record and the Globe Record. 

Clifton, Morenci and Metcalf, in Greenlee 
County, are all close together and are connected 
by railroads. Clifton is the terminus of the Ari- 
zona and New Mexico Railroad, connecting with 
the Southern Pacific at Lordsberg, N. M. 

Jerome, situated on a steep hill near the upper 
Verde, is the home of Senator Clark's rich copper 
mine, The United Verde, and is connected with the 
Santa Fe, Prescott & Phoenix by a private road. 
It also has a new road to Clarkdale in the Verde 
Valley, where it smelts its ore. 

Kingman is the supply point on the Santa Fe 
for Chloride and other important mining towns in 
Mojave County. 

Nogales is an important Mexican border town, 
being the northern terminus of the Southern Pa- 
cific de Mejico, running through Sonora and 
Sinaloa and tapping rich grazing, mining and agri- 
cultural country. The future of the town is un- 
doubtedly rich with promise. 

Yuma's day is at hand. For years the town has 
been associated only with slanderous tales con- 
cerning the behavior of its thermometers in July 



ARIZONA CITIES OF TODAY 401 

and August. Now with the completion of the 
Laguna irrigation system it glories in its hot sum- 
mer days as much as it does in the balmy ones of 
winter. It is hot sunshine that makes Yuma cotton 
so good, that gives its farmers six crops of alfalfa 
a year, so Yuma's four thousand people with one 
voice say, "Let the sun shine." 

Flagstaff, on the Santa Fe, at an altitude of 
7,000 feet and surrounded by pines, specializes in 
cool summer days. Also, quite aside from its cli- 
matic excellence, it is the center of a very rich 
grazing country, and the beauty of the town, with 
the San Francisco peaks, snow-capped for much 
of the year, is undeniable. It is the home of one 
of the state's two normal schools, and of the fa- 
mous Lowell Observatory. 

Florence, one of the oldest towns in the state, 
is waiting for the day when the San Carlos dam 
will be built, when with plenty of water for the 
irrigating canals in the district, Florence will fol- 
low in the foosteps of Phoenix and Yuma. How- 
ever, the farmers are raising some crops even now. 
It is a patriotic community — no doubt about that. 
In the spring of 1918, when there wasn't enough 
water for both the alfalfa men and the wheat 
raisers, the owners of the alfalfa fields let the grain 
farmers have enough of their water to mature 
their crops and help out Hoover. 

Mesa, Tempe and Chandler are all suburban, 
agricultural towns in the Salt River Valley, sur- 
rounded on all sides by cotton, alfalfa and opulent 
farmers. Chandler, besides its tourist hotel, has 



402 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

the finest golf links in the Southwest, covered 
thick with a grass sod, which in these war times 
gives nourishment to a large flock of sheep, in ad- 
dition to recreation and recuperation to winter 
visitors. 



Chapter XXVI 

ARIZONA'S PART IN THE WORLD'S 
WAR 

THE people of Arizona may well be proud of 
their state's record in the World's War. 
Not only has its achievements, according to 
the percentage of its population in comparison 
with other states, in Liberty loan subscriptions, in 
Y. M. C. A. donations and in Red Cross work, been 
conspicuous in the nation, but in addition it has 
contributed the largest percentage of soldiers and 
sailors to the war, per capita of male citizens, of 
any state in the Union. 

The population of Arizona, according to the 
census of 1910, was 204,354; its population for 
1917, as estimated by the Census Bureau, was 
263,788. Deducting from that 105,551 Indians and 
aliens (mostly Mexicans), leaves a remainder of 
158,237. Arizona's draft was on a supposed popu- 
lation — estimated in the provost marshal general's 
office-— of 409,230. 

At the beginning of the war the Arizona Na- 
tional Guard contributed over 1,000 men to the 
army, but when a new oath was required of the 
militiamen, only something over 600 re-enlisted, 
although most of them joined the service later. 

In addition to this, over 800 of Arizona's young 

403 



404 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

men voluntarily enlisted in the navy and the 
marines. Statistics are not available, at this time, 
giving the number of commissioned officers that 
went into the service from the state, but in pro- 
portion to Arizona's population, the number is 
large. The estimate made by the state's adjutant 
general's office for army and navy enlistments and 
officers commissioned is 895. 

Up to June 1, 1918, the number of men contrib- 
uted by the different counties in the draft was as 
follows : 

Cochise 1,154 

Maricopa 1,328 

Gila 1,037 

Yavapai 825 

Pima 736 

Greenlee 625 

Pinal 462 

Coconino 427 

Yuma 371 

Mojave 320 

Navajo 262 

Santa Cruz 197 

Apache 148 

Not identified 17 

Total 8,355 

These figures, which were later increased to 
10,000, added to voluntary enlistments and com- 
missioned officers, brings the total number of men 
going into service from Arizona as not far from 
twelve thousand out of an available population of 
158,237 people. 



ARIZONA'S PART IN THE WAR 405 

With but few exceptions the men composing 
the Arizona contingent went not only wilhngly 
but eagerly, and the demonstrations, made at their 
departure, from different centers of population 
showed how sincerely the "folks at home" were 
ready to "back them up." Receptions, parades, 
picnics, banquets and balls were given in their 
honor; speeches wishing them Godspeed were 
made by officials from the governor down; flags 
were flown, bands played their most martial 
music, all to the end that honor might be shown 
those who gallantly stood ready to pledge their 
lives that the world might still be kept a fit place 
to live in. 

The one conspicuous case of attempt at draft 
evasion in Arizona was made by Tom and John 
Powers, who not only did not register, but, in com- 
pany with Tom Sissons, an ex-convict, shot to 
death Sheriff Frank McBride, under-Sheriff Mart 
R. Kempton, and Deputy Sheriff Kane Wootan, of 
Graham County, when they came to arrest them 
at the Powers home in Rattlesnake Canyon. 

So outraged were the people of Arizona over 
the crime that special rewards were offered by 
both state and county for the apprehension of the 
criminals, and practically every peace officer in 
that section of the state, aided by hundreds of 
civilian possemen, hunted the men for weeks, 
when they were finally apprehended and taken 
into custody by United States soldiers a few miles 
below the Mexican line. 

America entered the World's War April 6, 



406 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

1917. That same month the obvious necessity for 
unity and cohesion in the many branches of work 
that must be undertaken in this state was met by 
the formation of the Arizona Council of Defense. 
The organization had its birth April 17, at a meet- 
ing of fifty prominent citizens of the state, who 
were called together by Governor Thomas E. 
Campbell. A day later the machinery of the 
Council was put in motion with Dwight B. Heard, 
chairman, and George H. Smally, secretary. 

An executive committee of twelve was ap- 
pointed, and fourteen sub-committees arranged 
for, officered by efficient and well-known citizens. 

One of the first things undertaken by the 
Council, through its various committees, was the 
gathering of statistics concerning the state's re- 
sources and cataloguing the same. 

The information thus obtained concerned crops, 
railroads, automobiles, auto trucks, mining pro- 
duction, labor conditions and other matters. Plans 
for the production and conservation of food sup- 
plies were entered into, the sub-committee with 
this in charge co-operating with the various county 
agents acting under the State Experimental Sta- 
tion. A committee on relief worked with a Red 
Cross committee to assist families, the heads of 
which were in military service; the committee on 
military training encouraged enlistments and aided 
in organizing forces for home defense, while other 
departments assisted in mobilizing boys for farm 
labor, in organizing Papago, Apache and Navajo 
labor, and secured a modification of the immigra- 



ARIZONA'S PART IN THE WAR 407 

tion law that would permit cotton growers to im- 
port pickers from Old Mexico. 

These are but hints of the many activities un- 
dertaken by the Council and successfully carried 
through. When Governor Hunt again assumed the 
duties of governor on December 23, 1917, he be- 
came the ofTicial head of the Council of Defense, 
and ex-Governor Campbell took a place in the ex- 
ecutive committee. 

Early in 1918 the Council increased its zone of 
usefulness by organizing county councils to work 
in connection with the state organization. Some 
of the benefits of this extension work are ex- 
pressed in a letter from President Wilson to the 
state chairman under date, March 13, 1918. 

"Your state, in extending its national defense 
organization by the creation of community coun- 
cils, is, in my opinion, making an advance of vital 
significance. It will, I believe, result, when thor- 
oughly carried out, in welding the Nation together 
as no nation of great size has ever been welded 
before " 

A woman's committee of the Arizona division 
of the National Council of Defense was organized 
with Mrs. Pauline M. O'Neill as state chairman. 
This body also had county committees which did 
not so much plan to organize new work as to assist 
existing agencies. 

The zeal displayed by the people of Arizona in 
the purchase of Liberty bonds and thrift stamps 
and in contributing to the Red Cross and kindred 
organizations was in no wise behind its other war 



408 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

activities. In this work men and women co-oper- 
ated. In the largest cities there would be usually 
a man for chairman, but women took an active 
part in organizing the work, in receiving contribu- 
tions and making house-to-house canvasses. In 
the smaller towns women would often have tables 
in the postofflce and other public places where 
every person who passed would be given a chance 
to contribute. 

In the sale of thrift stamps, school children 
took a very active part. As an example of this, in 
the agricultural district of Chandler, where the 
school enrollment, including the children of Mexi- 
can laborers, was five hundred, in twenty-three 
days in May, 1918, the children bought with their 
own money $1,155 worth of stamps. Most of this 
was earned by personal labor, the children hoeing 
weeds, milking cows, collecting and selling bottles, 
running errands and the like. 

The sale of the first three issues of Liberty 
bonds in the state was as follows: First issue, 
$6,703,400; second issue, $12,092,450; third issue, 
$11,382,200; fourth issue, $15,222,200. 

All of these amounts largely exceeded Arizona's 
quota. 

The same spirit of service was shown in Ari- 
zona's response to the Red Cross drives. The first 
subscription reached $131,490.84. Arizona's allot- 
ment for the second drive made in May, 1918, was 
$200,000. Arizona "went over the top" with $459,- 
195.92. In the purchase of bonds and in making of 
subscriptions, all classes in Arizona seemed to join 



ARIZONA'S PART IN THE WAR 409 

with equal heartiness. Not only did the rich and 
well-to-do contribute, but railroad foremen, man- 
agers of stores and superintendents of mining com- 
panies would often report that every man in their 
employ had participated in the various drives. 

In the manufacture of hospital dressings and 
various garments the Arizona Red Cross is said to 
be one of the best examples of efficiency in the 
entire country. No rural district was too isolated, 
no mining camp too remote, but what knitting 
needles were plied and sewing machines kept busy 
to serve the boys at the front and provide gar- 
ments for the destitute in the battle-scarred regions 
across the Atlantic. Schoolboys as well as school- 
girls, from the grammar grades up, knitted. 

Arizona had its chapter of the United States 
Boys' Working Reserve, and its leader, Lindley B. 
Orme, in May, 1918, reported : "I am proud to say 
that the boys of Arizona are responding with true 
patriotism for enrollment in the Boys' Working 
Reserve." 

The nation-wide organization, known as the 
Four Minute Men, where speakers briefly address 
audiences in theaters and other places on patriotic 
subjects, had its organization in Arizona under the 
direction of George J. Stoneman, state chairman. 
Capable work was done not only in the cities and 
towns, but even in the most remote portions of the 
state forest supervisors, rangers and superintend- 
ents of Indian schools were enlisted either as 
speakers or as agencies for the distribution of 
patriotic literature. 



410 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

The restrictions in food consumption required 
by war's necessities were accepted with willing- 
ness by Arizona's people. M. T. Grier, State Hotel 
Chairman, reports in April, 1918, that over 63,000 
pounds of flour were saved in Arizona for the 
month of March, 1918, and that many of the public 
eating houses in the state were using no wheat at 
all. In May, 1918, bread cards were issued, limit- 
ing each person to six pounds of flour a month. 

To increase Arizona's grains the committee on 
production of the Council of Defense made special 
efforts to increase the production of milo, kaflir 
and feterita, which were formerly used as forage 
grains, but under war necessities were found to 
make very good bread. 

No chapter on Arizona's part in the world's war 
would be complete without mentioning what the 
University of Arizona has done. Since its incep- 
tion the university has been a military school. All 
male students are required to take two years in 
military sciences and tactics. A majority of the 
graduates have taken four. 

"Almost to a man," says President von Klein- 
Smid, "have the students of the university qualified 
and enlisted in Government service, some as offi- 
cers and some as engineers and in ambulance 
corps." Forty of the boys were excused from 
school work for service to the Nation along agri- 
cultural lines. 

Among the women, twenty-two graduates not 
only volunteered their services as members of the 
Red Cross, but completed a course in "first aid" 
training that would qualify them for service. 



ARIZONA'S PART IN THE WAR 411 

In no wise behind the other activities of the 
university has been the work of its agricultural 
extension sei-vice, whose staff of workers include 
agricultural and live stock specialists, organizers 
of boys' and girls' agricultural clubs, and agents in 
each county, who advise farmers as to the best 
methods of crop production. 

In the Arizona State Bureau of Mines Director 
Charles F. Willis compiled statistics concerning 
the mineral resources of the state, and, in different 
ways, tried to stimulate the production of not only 
such staples as copper, lead and zinc, but rarer 
minerals, including chromite, manganese, graph- 
ites, etc., needed in the war. 

During the summer months of 1918 the faculty 
of the university remained on duty instructing two 
companies of selected men from the new National 
army in mechanic arts; and a Students' Army 
Training Corps was organized in the fall of 1918. 

A special session of the Third State Legislature, 
to consider various measures made urgent by war 
conditions, was called by Governor Hunt to meet 
May 21, 1918. When the law-makers convened 
there were two empty seats in the House, those of 
Harold Baxter and C. C. Faires, both in military 
service abroad, and during the session Ernest Hall, 
of the Senate, also left for the front. Their vacant 
places were marked by the display of American 
and service flags. 

Although factional politics for a time seemed 
to threaten the serious purpose of the session, 
when the test came, most of the legislators gave 



412 THE STORY OP ARIZONA 

evidence of appreciating the grave responsibility 
that rested upon them, and bills, although some 
of them were perhaps impaired by a necessity for 
compromise, yet meeting the most pressing of the 
hour's necessities, were passed. 

Chief among these enactments was a bill pro- 
viding for the formation of a legally authorized 
and empowered council of defense to take the 
place of the emergency body created by Governor 
Campbell. Under this law the council was to con- 
sist of the governor, acting as chairman, and 
fourteen members, one to be appointed by the gov- 
ernor from each of the fourteen counties in the 
state, each appointee to receive ratification from 
the board of supervisors acting in his county. 
Among other functions the council was given 
power to initiate all necessary measures to co- 
ordinate the state's war activities with those of 
the national Government, to supervise the solicita- 
tion of funds for patriotic purposes, and to enlist 
the co-operation of officials and private citizens 
in carrying on war work within the state. It was 
also given wide investigational powers. 

A popular enactment was one granting citizens 
of the state in military service, no matter where 
thej^ might be, the right to vote, the ballots after 
being filled out by the soldiers to be mailed back 
to the proper official in Arizona. 

Other bills passed include the following: De- 
fining the crime of sabotage and fixing the penalty; 
prohibiting the giving of aid or employment to 
draft evaders or deserters: an Americanization 



ARIZONA'S PART IN THE WAR 413 

bill providing for night schools for the instruction, 
in the English language and in American ideals, 
of non-speaking aliens; a bill granting to the mem- 
bers of the National Guard credit for the time 
engaged by them in the federal service; an anti- 
vagabondage bill, and a bill making it a special 
crime to give false affidavits to secure an improper 
classification for registration under the selective 
draft. 

After all, if there were some heated discussions 
indulged in during the session, the cause of it need 
not necessarily be laid entirely to politics. It was 
Arizona in June, and during the time the solons 
sat, under the droning electric fans, wiping the 
legislative brow, and, sans coats, pulling apart the 
collars of the senatorial toga, the mercury, even 
in the louver-sided instrument box on top of the 
weather bureau office, registered 113 3-5, breaking 
the record for eight years. When on June 19th 
the session adjourned, with one accord all legis- 
lators living in the cool, mountainous parts of the 
state stayed not on the order of going, nor tarried 
by the wayside, but with one accord, suitcases in 
hands and with nostrils already sniffing highland 
breezes, made a bee-line for the railroad station. 

The State Council of Defense, as provided for 
under the new law, completed its organization in 
July, 1918, with an executive committee as fol- 
lows: I ^V 

Gov. George W. P. Hunt, Phoenix, chairman; 
C. E. Addams, vice-chairman, Ray, Pinal County; 
Mrs. Theodora Marsh, Nogales; W. D. Claypool, 



414 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Claypool, Gila County; Homer R. Wood, Prescott; 
Dwight B. Heard, Phoenix; D. T. MacDougal, 
Tucson. 

The first native Arizonan to give up his life for 
his country in the World War in France was Mat- 
thew R. Rivers, a Pima Indian, who had been 
educated at the Sherman Institute, California. 
Like many other Arizona Indians, he had shown 
his patriotism by early enlisting in the army. How- 
ever, with most of the Indians of the state the navy 
was the favorite branch of service, although many 
of them had lived on the desert all their lives and 
had never seen the ocean until they enlisted. 

The armistice which brought the World's War 
to an end was signed on the private railroad train 
of Marshal Foch at Rethondes, France, at five 
o'clock on the morning of November 11, 1918; in 
Arizona, on account of the ditference in time, it 
was ten o'clock p. m., November 10th. 

The news for which all were waiting with such 
eagerness reached our cities soon after midnight, 
when bells were rung and whistles blown to ex- 
press the joy of those who had stayed up to wait 
the tidings, as well as to apprise the minority who 
had gone to bed that peace had come at last. 

As was the case with much of America, Arizona 
was in the midst of a visitation of the ubiquitous 
"Spanish" influenza. Churches, schools and 
theaters had been closed and public meetings for- 
bidden since early in October, and, as it turned out, 
the ban was to remain in force until nearly the 
end of the year; nevertheless, the enthusiasm of the 



ARIZONA'S PART IN THE WAR 415 

people was too great to be refused communal and 
gregarious expression, even by quarantine regula- 
tions, and on the morning of the 11th the streets 
of towns and cities were soon filled with young 
and old, radiant of face and with shining eyes, who 
made the air vocal with enthusiastic expressions 
of joy and relief. In the hour the austere forgot 
their dignity and the most incorrigible pessimists 
played the part of Sunny Jim. 

Those whose near and dear were in their coun- 
try's service, said in varying words but with com- 
mon thought, 'The boys are coming back !" Those 
whose beloved had paid the supreme price, smiled 
through tears with the bravery of sacrifice to a 
high and noble cause, and in their bereaved hearts 
had the consolation of knowing that those who had 
laid down their lives had not "died in vain." 
Women cried, "We've won ! We've won !" and all 
the ages of man, from schoolboy to "slippered 
pantaloon," chortled in common and commendable 
atavism, in all the keys of human expression, 
"B'gee, we've licked 'em!" 



Chaptee XXVII 

ARIZONA PLANT LIFE 

In collaboration with J. J. Thornber, A. M. 

THERE are places in Arizona, when the sun is 
shining where a man may go coatless with 
comfort in mid-winter. There are other 
places in the state where the camper-out, if he 
would keep the shivers from his back, must have 
an evening fire throughout the entire summer. 
These extremes in temperature are caused by dif- 
ferences in altitude, and as in the lowest altitudes 
the rainfall is not over five inches for the entire 
year, and in places in the mountains it is five or 
six times that amount, the variations in plant life 
are even more striking than the climatic differ- 
ences. 

Topographically, Arizona falls naturally into 
three distinct physical divisions. The southwestern 
part of the state is, for the most part, a flat desert, 
out of which gaunt mountains rise, whose rocky 
surfaces, save where cacti or hardy shrubs find 
footing in fissures in the sandstone or lava rock, 
are devoid of vegetation. In the northern part of 
the state there is a plateau, averaging in height 
about a mile above sea level, with mountains here 
and there, whose snow-capped peaks reach an ele- 

416 



ARIZONA PLANT LIFE 417 

vation of twelve thousand feet. Between these two 
extremes comes the foothill country. 

Each of these divisions has its own particular 
flora, and included among its trees, shrubs, grasses, 
flowers and even ferns are nearly 3,000 species of 
plants, representing almost every plant family in 
our large country. Some of these have been recog- 
nized quickly as worthy of places in our yards, 
gardens and conservatories, and in time many 
others, through merit, are sure to find their way 
into cultivation to become a help to mankind. 
There is almost no season of the year when one 
can not find flowers somewhere in Arizona. 

On the low, desert floor to the south, in order 
to maintain existence, plant life must ever protect 
itself both against the hot, dry, scorching air that 
would wring from it the little water it obtains 
from the infrequent rains, and animals that in a 
country of sparse vegetation seem ready to con- 
sume almost anything that grows. 

The m.ethods the diff'erent plants take in their 
struggle for existence are full of interest. Some 
of the cacti store water in their thick, stalky trunks 
or fleshy stems, others in bulbous roots. Several 
of the shrubs have varnished leaves, which greatly 
lessens evaporation, and on nearly all of the trees 
there is a greatly reduced leaf surface. 

The protection the desert plant has against ani- 
mals is equally efficacious, though botanists tell us 
that desert conditions are largely responsible for 
their characteristic growth. Examine almost any- 
thing that grows on the desert, whether it be shrub. 



418 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

cactus or tree, and you will find that it bristles 
with thorns or spikes that say to the marauder, 
"Beware! Disturb me at your peril!" 

Perhaps the most characteristic growth to be 
found on the desert floor is the creosote bush, 
though it is found to some extent on mesas and in 
the foothills. It stands any amount of heat, and 
covers much of the country from the mountains, 
south and west, beyond the borders of the state. 
The bush is about five feet in height, and its small, 
varnished, glossy leaves feel sticky to the touch. 
Always attractive in appearance, it is at its best 
in March and April, when it is covered with little 
yellow flowers, followed later by white, fluffy seed 
balls. 

Except after winter or early spring rains, the 
ground between the bushes is wholly bare, the 
brown, hard soil looking sterile enough, yet when 
the seeds which lie within its hard crust are quick- 
ened by rains, myriads of flowers and grasses 
spring into life to bloom and seed before the 
scorching sun of summer shall end the short cycle 
of their existence. 

With seasonable rains in the winter and spring 
the barren foothills and semi-desert areas of south- 
ern and western Arizona are carpeted with a 
wealth of golden poppies, purple phacelias, blue 
covenas and larkspurs, orange and yellow mari- 
posa lilies and bright flowered gaillardias and 
paintbrushes. Usually these form a mosaic broken 
here and there, though in more favorable locations 
they grow in vast beds, where the poppies and 



ARIZONA PLANT LIFE 419 

mariposa lilies give their colors of gold and orange 
to the landscape for miles along the foothills. 
Other flowers less in evidence at this season are 
tidy tips, cream cups, anemones, desert stars, dai- 
sies, borages, fairy dusters, gilias, wild flax, even- 
ing primroses and desert holly. There are more 
than two hundred of these early blooming flowers, 
most of them small annuals, growing and flourish- 
ing during the cool, moist weather of late winter 
and spring. 

All through the desert country and foothills, up 
to three thousand feet, among characteristic desert 
growths rises the giant cactus, which the Arizonan 
calls the "suhuaro" and the botanist the "Cereus 
giganteiis" Nothing within the borders of Arizona 
is more picturesque or striking than these senti- 
nels of the plains, which rear their fluted columns 
to a height of from thirty to fifty feet. Their few 
branches, thick and sturdy, rise candelabra-like 
close along the sides of the parent stalk, and, like 
it, are protected with little rosettes of thorns. Dur- 
ing May and June handsome white, wax-like flow- 
ers form at its crown, and from these grow oval 
fruits with crimson flesh and black seeds. This 
great tree of a cactus is unique among plants, and 
its blossom was well chosen as the State Flower 
of Arizona. Woodpeckers make holes high up on 
the trunks of the suhuaro for nests, afterwards 
these holes are often used by the tiny elf owl. 

To the casual observer the bisnaga, or barrel 
cactus {Echinocactus Wislizeni), is sometimes mis- 
taken for a young suhuaro. Even a superficial 



420 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

examination, however, discloses many striking dif- 
ferences, for, while with the suhuaro the thorns 
are straight, in the bisnaga they are curved like a 
fish hook. They have no arms, and are seldom 
more than four or five feet in height. 

The most cruel and menacing of all the desert 
growths are varieties of Opuntia, commonly known 
as the cholla. The most malignant of several sim- 
ilar varieties is the Opuntia fulgida, which grows 
from four to six feet in height, and is a mass of 
spreading, contorted branches covered with cruel 
thorns. Brush them ever so slightly with hand or 
clothing and the little, short terminal branches 
break at their brittle, cylindrical joints, when the 
thorns seem to fairly eat into the flesh. So readily 
will these branches attach themselves to the unfor- 
tunate man or beast who touches them that there 
are many who believe that they jump at one. 

But while the cholla shows its fangs to the 
stranger, it gives protection to its friends. Lizards 
are ever ready to take refuge among loose piles of 
dropped joints, several varieties of birds nest 
among its spiny branches, and desert rats will use 
the thorny branches as the outer wall of a fortress 
around their nest as a protection against those 
who would molest them. The cholla's many plant 
cousins have more or less its same characteristics, 
varying in height from small shrubs to trees higher 
than one's head. 

The well-known prickly pear, or nopal, is also an 
Opuntia, and, as with most cacti, its blossom ma- 
tures into a fruit, of which more will be said 
later. 



ARIZONA PLANT LIFE 421 

Both prickly pears and chollas are forage plants, 
and if the thorns are burned off, which can be 
done easily, the rather succulent branches are 
eaten with avidity by stock. Indeed, a goat, if 
hungry, will eat cholla branches, thorns and all, 
with apparent relish. When other food is scarce 
a wise, old, range cow will sometimes be seen din- 
ing on prickly pear. With one end of a joint in her 
mouth she will beat a branch against the ground 
until, when the thorns are somewhat subdued, she 
will calmly swallow it. 

Of the smaller varieties of cacti there is none 
more interesting than the pincushion (Mamillaria 
Grahami) . It grows in a tiny ball, often not much 
larger than a door knob, and is covered with little 
stars of spines, from which a tiny fish hook rises 
in the center. Its fruit is a bright, scarlet berry 
that grows out like a very tinj^ baby's finger. 

Those mentioned are, of course, but hints of the 
hundred or more varieties of cacti which grow in 
Arizona. Their flowers are among the most gor- 
geous on the desert, but they are not "bouquet 
flowers," and woe is to him who would try to pick 
them. Though cactus flowers last but a day, they 
can easily match every shade of the rainbow with 
their colors of pure white, yellow, orange, pink, 
red, magenta, purple and maroon, to say nothing 
of the indeterminate tints. Arizona's finest flower 
is the rare night-blooming cereus. This wonderful 
blossom is eight or nine inches long and bell- 
shaped, with numerous cream white petals and 
stamens, often tinged with pink and brown. 



422 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

The ocotillo (Foiiquiera splendens), which is 
usually found in the foothills, though not scien- 
tifically a cactus, is often classed with them. It is 
sometimes called the devil's coachwhip, and 
grows in groups of whip-like stalks five to fifteen 
feet or more in height, and, of course, is armed 
with the inevitable thorn. In the spring the ends 
of these whips, which are occasionally clothed 
with soft green leaves, bear hundreds of crimson 
flowers, a striking and wonderful flame of color, 
against a desert background. 

The most prominent trees of the desert are the 
mesquite, the ironwood and the palo verde. These 
trees grow most thriftily when found along washes 
or in depressions in the desert, where, by reason 
of drainage, they are favorably located to collect 
moisture. Although the palo verde, especially, is 
found in sterile soil, the ironwood and mesquite 
reach their best development in rich, alluvial de- 
posits. 

The mesquite, the most valuable to man of all 
the desert trees, is a low-growing, spreading tree 
of the Mimosa family, with finely divided leaves 
and many small leaflets. Bees make beautiful 
white honey from its masses of cream-yellow flow- 
ers, which appear in May and June. Later beans 
are formed, which make valuable stock food. Its 
wood makes excellent fence posts and fuel. From 
a distance old mesquite trees look not unlike old 
apple trees. 

The ironwood (Olneya tesota), which likes the 
desert and low altitudes, is a member of the pea 



ARIZONA PLANT LIFE 423 

or clover family, and late in the spring has a pea- 
like, lavender-colored flower, followed by a pod 
with several seeds. The wood is so heavy that it 
will sink in water. The Pima and Papago Indians 
not only made spades of it, but a mallet or war 
club, with which they would slip into Apache 
camps at night and deftly brain their ancient 
enemies. 

The palo verde is beloved by all who know the 
desert and have an appreciation of its picturesque- 
ness and beauty. Though for much of the year 
this unique tree is wholly devoid of the small 
leaves it bears for a part of the summer, its nu- 
merous branches and twigs spreading gracefully 
from a short trunk are of a soft delicate shade of 
green, and even then form a picture full of charm. 
It is in May, however, that the palo verde becomes 
truly splendid, for then the entire top may be a 
mass of yellow flowers that are fairly dazzling. 

In the river bottoms — such as those of the Salt, 
Gila and Colorado — in the desert country one finds 
the willow and the cottonwood, the latter being 
the noblest tree that grows in the Southwest, often 
attaining a height of ninety feet, with a wide- 
spreading canopy of branches and deep green 
leaves. 

The arrow weed (Pluchca borealis) and the 
"bata mote" {Baccharis glutinosa) inhabit river 
banks and flood plains in the hot lowlands. The 
Indians make excellent arrows from them. 

The desert pampas (Baccharis sarathroides) is 
an interesting desert shrub growing in the river 



424 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

valleys and arid mesas in southern Arizona. Its 
slender, angular, evergreen twigs are almost desti- 
tute of leaves, but in the autumn it produces masses 
of white, cottony down that make it very attrac- 
tive. 

A bush that never fails to attract the attention 
of the traveler is the crucifixion thorn (Holacantha 
Emoryi). It usually grows to a height of from 
four to ten feet. Its bark is smooth and green; 
there is no leaf nor rosette of thorns, but every 
twig ends in a hard, sharp spiny point. As Van 
Dyke says, "The shrub seems created for no other 
purpose than the glorification of the thorn as a 
thorn." It is found on such desert areas as those 
surrounding the Salt River valley. 

The desert flowers which have been noted mostly 
disappear with the dry, hot fore-summer, and the 
landscape is again desolate save for the scattered 
shrubs and low trees, whose foliage is yellowish, 
dull brownish or sage green. Late in July or Au- 
gust the ever-welcome summer showers come; 
these soften and moisten the air and bring life 
anew to the parched mesas and foothills, and an- 
other group of desert flowers spring as if by magic 
into existence, for now the weather is warm and 
growth is rapid. These are represented by the 
showy Mexican poppies or golden caltrops, blue, 
white and scarlet morning-glories, purple four- 
o'clocks, fragrant yellow-flowered martinos or 
devil's claws, besides asters, lemon weeds, zinnias, 
marigolds, verbenas and cassias. Among cacti, 
bisnagas or fish hook cacti, wear crowns of golden 



ARIZONA PLANT LIFE 425 

or orange-red blossoms and large choUas, glisten- 
ing with white spines, are very attractive. Nopals 
or prickly pears are equally showy at this season 
with their abundance of deep red or magenta 
fruits. Creosote bushes, mesquites and acacias 
often bloom profusely for a second time, as if one 
splendid flowering season was not enough. 

In journeying from the lowlands to the high- 
lands of Arizona, as one does, for instance, when 
making the trip from Phoenix to Prescott, even the 
wonderful scenery that on all sides commands 
admiration scarely holds the observer in more 
fascinated attention than does the ever-changing 
panorama of plant life. 

As one gets into the foothills ironwood trees, 
creosote bushes and salt bushes are slowly left be- 
hind. Mesquites are still seen and acacias, cat's- 
claw and brittle bushes, all of which flower in 
April or May. Chollas, too, have disappeared, and 
as the suhuaros grow fewer in number and finally 
no longer show against the rocky hillsides, yuccas 
take their place, and if it be early summer some of 
them will be adorned with tall, white, spire-like 
panicles of most beautiful flowers. A few miles 
farther and on a steep slope there may be seen a 
clump of agaves, similar to the century plant of 
the conservatory, only smaller, and from the cen- 
ter of the bayonet-like cluster of leaves at the 
ground rises a straight stalk ten feet or so, with 
yellow-reddish branches coming out near the top 
and terminating in big yellow flowers — the whole 
effect being that of a great candelabra. 



426 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

At an altitude of about four thousand feet, scrub 
oaks begin to appear and soon cover the ever- 
rising hills. If you pass through a wash where 
trickling water runs, hackberry or ash trees may 
be observed, or perhaps a great Arizona sycamore, 
which is a particularly striking looking tree with 
its large, sharply lobed leaves and its white bark, 
which has the habit of renewing itself annually. 

Finally one comes to the bottom of a tremen- 
dous hill, three, four or even five miles in length, 
and after a long climb upwards through scrub 
oaks, with occasional glimpses of juniper trees, 
he comes to ihe top, and "Presto! Change!" He 
feels quite like Jack of the Bean-stalk must have 
felt when he poked his head up through the floor 
of the Giant's country. 

Everything suggestive of the desert has now been 
left behind. Even in mid-summer instead of 
scorching heat, cool breezes fan the cheek, and if 
the summer rains have begun, the ground will be 
covered with grasses and shrubs, perhaps flowers, 
which are distinct from and also more showy than 
those of the lower mesas and foothills. These will 
include verbenas, painted cups, lupines, yellow 
peas and wild beans, with Indian paintbrushes on 
the hillsides, and all about one rise great pines, 
pointing like cathedral spires to the sky. 

To any one interested in the out-of-doors in gen- 
eral and trees in particular, there are many things 
about the Arizona conifers worth noticing. One 
may follow automobile roads for hundreds of 
miles and be surrounded with pines, junipers or 



ARIZONA PLANT LIFE 427 

firs all the time. Ten varieties, altogether, there 
are of the pines, and the most widely distributed 
of them all in the state is the western yellow pine, 
the Pinus scopulorum, which is to say, "The Pine- 
among-the-rocks." Its majestic size is surpassed 
by few other pines, as it rises to a height of 125 
to 140 feet, with a practically clear trunk of from 
forty to sixty feet. It makes excellent lumber, 
being soft and easy to work, and is suitable for 
both interior and exterior purposes. Remarkable 
as it may seem to the stranger in the Southwest, 
the largest yellow pine forest in North America 
occurs in Arizona. 

The Apache pine is interesting because of its 
rareness, being found but seldom in America out- 
side of the southeastern part of this state. It 
grows fifty feet or more in height, with an open, 
round-topped crown. It is known by its long 
needles. 

The Chihuahua pine is also found in the moun- 
tains in southeastern Arizona, and extends down 
into Mexico. It is smaller than the Apache pine 
and, compared with other associated pines, its 
foliage appears thin and pale. 

Three nut pines grow in Arizona — the Mexican 
pinon, the Pinus edulis and the single leaf pine. 
All have the short needles, characteristic of the 
piiion. They are much smaller than the pine and 
bear in their cones the nuts that are valued almost 
as much by the Americans as they are by the Mexi- 
cans and Indians. 

Two of the most beautiful of all the conifers of 



428 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

the mountain districts of Arizona are the Engle- 
mann spruce and the blue spruce, which are usu- 
ally found at an altitude of over seven thousand 
feet. They are about as tall as the Pinus scopu- 
lorum, and with their blue-green foliage and 
draped as they sometimes are with gray-green 
lichens resembling Spanish moss, their appear- 
ance, towering against the background of a canyon 
wall, is nothing less than majestic. 

Arizona has an unusual and beautiful tree in the 
cork fir, which, growing at an altitude of 8,500 feet 
or higher, is recognized by light-colored, silvery 
bark, which is cork-like and peels off in large, thin 
layers. Its usual height is from 100 to 120 feet, 
with light green foliage. It is common in the for- 
ests about the San Francisco Mountains, in the 
White Mountains and occasionally on the Graham 
and Santa Catalina Mountains. 

The silver fir (Abies concolor), with fine silvery 
or blue-green foliage, is somewhat similar, but 
does not have the cork-like bark. This tree is com- 
mon throughout the mountains of Arizona, at an 
altitude of 7,500 to 8,000 feet. 

There are several varieties of junipers found in 
the mountain regions. They are low-growing trees 
with rounded tops and usually with wide-spread- 
ing branches. They have thick, scale-like leaves 
and interesting, compact little berries, which are 
really made over cones. The fragrant wood is used 
for a variety of things, from posts to pencils, and 
burns without the pitchy smoke of the pines. Juni- 
per, by the way, is but another name for cedar, of 
which there are at least four varieties in the state. 



ARIZONA PLANT LIFE 420 

The Arizona cypress (Cupressus arizonica) is a 
tree that has been transplanted from its mountain 
home, to make an excellent ornamental tree for 
the lawn in the lower valleys. Its leaves are scale- 
like — small, silvery green, and it is readily distin- 
guished from the junipers, in that it is not so wide 
spreading and by the fact that the fruits are com- 
pact, small, thick-scaled cones, and not at all 
"berries." 

No tree in the high mountain country is more 
beautiful than the quaking aspen, which is rarely 
seen lower than seven thousand feet. The aspens 
are found in little groves on mountain slopes, 
where their straight white trunks and their leaves, 
ever trembling in the cool, pure air, present a pic- 
ture of rare loveliness. 

Maple trees find a congenial home in high, 
shadowy mountain canyons, where snows lie in 
winter and brooks trickle in summer. Also here 
and on pine and spruce-covered slopes, where the 
summer air is moist from frequent thunder show- 
ers, are to be found throughout the summer and 
autumn veritable flower beds, where grow painted 
cups, beardtongues, gilias or skyrockets, wild fuch- 
sias, bouvardias and a lobelia, all of which will 
have bright scarlet or red flov/ers, also golden and 
cardinal columbines, tall, blue larkspurs, lupines 
and irises, evening primroses, cardinal and yellow 
monkey flowers, orange and red-flowered milk- 
weeds, golden glow and occasional patches of 
Parry's yellow lily, besides wild roses, honey- 
suckles and spiraeas and a host of smaller flowers. 



430 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

like geraniums, primroses, shooting stars, violets, 
wild peas and vetches, bluebells, buttercups, false 
Solomon's seal, also lady slippers and numerous 
other orchids. 

Among the earliest of the mountain flowers are 
the sego lilies, with blossoms of pale pink, blend- 
ing into lavender. The glory of the autumn is the 
goldenrod. 

To return to our trees: In conclusion let us say 
that in Arizona the pines, firs and spruces are rep- 
resented by about fifteen species; in addition to 
these there are two to several species each of 
junipers, cypresses, alders, oaks, walnuts, willows, 
cottonwoods or poplars, ash trees, maples, wild 
cherries, ironwoods, mesquites, palo verdes and 
elderberries. The birch, hackberry, mulberry, 
soapberry, sycamore, cat's-claw, locust, redbud, 
mountain mahogany, mountain ash, thorn, ma- 
drone and desert willow are each represented by 
one species. 

Wild grapes are common at an altitude of a half 
mile or more in ravines, where water runs in times 
of rain, and in high, moist specially favored spots 
blackberry, gooseberry and raspberry bushes may 
be found. 

The flora of Arizona is also rich in grasses. 
Though widely distributed over the state, grasses 
are most abundant between the altitudes of 3,000 
and 8,000 feet, where the great bunch grass areas 
occur. Grama and mesquite are the most valuable 
of our grasses, and are noted the world over for 
their grazing value. Nearly all the species of these 



ARIZONA PLANT LIFE 431 

grasses growing in our country are found in Ari- 
zona. Though superior at all times to other 
grasses for grazing, grama grasses have the prop- 
erty of curing naturally on the ranges during the 
long, dry falls, and hence are invaluable for winter 
grazing. Other important groups are the blue- 
stem grasses, tripleawn grasses, drop-seed grasses, 
mountain bunch grasses and wheat grasses, the 
two latter growing mostly at high altitudes. Saca- 
ton, galleta or tubosa and desert cracker grass are 
other interesting, though less valuable grasses. 
The six-weeks grasses are small annuals, growing 
on the desert areas and completing their growth 
within a period of from four to six weeks during 
the summer rainy period. 

To those who in their minds have associated 
Arizona only with cacti, sagebrush or creosote 
bushes, it will come as a surprise to learn that 
within the state there are more than fifty kinds of 
ferns, including water ferns growing in ponds, 
desert ferns inhabiting the most arid, uninviting 
rocky foothills, and ferns frequenting cool, moist, 
shady canyons of our high mountains. The finest 
as well as the largest, of our ferns is the great 
chain fern (Woodwardia radicans), which grows 
to a height of five to seven feet, with fronds three 
to four feet long. It has a short, trunk-like caudex, 
which often gives it the appearance of a tree fern. 
The gold and silver fern grows but a few inches 
high in the shade of rocks in low canyons in the 
early spring, and the delicate southern maidenhair 
fern is one of the finest of the group. 



432 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

OLD MADAM NATURE'S CAFETERIA 
CATERING ESPECIALLY TO ABORIGINES 

To the white man only a few of the trees, bushes 
and plants we have been considering would be re- 
garded as productive of food, but to the aborigine, 
whose garden provided him at best with only 
squash, corn and beans, demands for a more va- 
ried vegetable diet, and for fruit, if possible, stim- 
ulated him to experiment with many unpromising 
growths. 

Pine nuts, bellotas, walnuts and wild grapes, 
wild currants, gooseberries, strawberries and rasp- 
berries were naturally all eaten with avidity by 
the highland Indian, nevertheless they were given 
decidedly a second place to the agave. About the 
first of July the stalk that later would have borne 
its wealth of flowers, is very tender, juicy and 
sweet, its heart resembling the sugarcane. From it 
the noble braves made "tizwin," a firewater that 
when imbibed by the redman turned him into 
something akin to a homicidal maniac. 

The heart and bases of the under leaves were 
roasted in pits dug in the ground, the heat being 
supplied by hot stones. After being left in these 
primitive ovens for two days the stalks would be 
reduced to a pulpy, sweetish, glutinous mass, not 
at all unpalatable. 

The southwestern Indian was ever more cleanly 
than the northern members of his race. One rea- 
son probably was that when the thermometer 
stands above one hundred, bathing becomes a 



ARIZONA PLANT LIFE 433 

pleasurable exercise. Another reason may have 
been the familiarity the redman had with the 
properties of the amole (of the Yucca family), 
whose roots make a splendid substitute for soap, 
as well as an excellent hair invigorator. 

But to return to our bill of fare : There is a wild 
parsnip that grows on the higher levels in Arizona 
that in the '50s the Pai-ute women used to collect 
in large quantities in the early months of the year. 
It was dried, ground and stored for future use. 

The fruits of many different kinds of cacti were 
highly prized by the Indians for food. The fruit 
of the prickly pear was eaten by the redmen both 
raw and cooked, and Mexican and American pio- 
neers alike made excellent jelly from it. Berries 
of Arizona's several varieties of manzanito also 
make delicious jelly. 

Preserves, jams and dried sweet meats were 
made from the fruit of the suhuaro, and specially 
prized by the Pimas and Papagos. In the early 
days the Pimas, once a year, would allow a portion 
of the syrup made from the suhuaro fruit to fer- 
ment, and on the liquor thus obtained would go 
on a debauch which would usually last for two 
days, after which they would return to their usual 
life of sobriety for another twelve months. 

Mesquite beans were a staple with the Pimas, 
Papagos, Yumas and other desert Indians. The 
beans were dried and ground, and the meal thus 
obtained would be used for making gruel and 
bread. A meal was also made from acorns. 

Grass seeds were carefully collected by the 



434 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

Apache women. The seeds would be cleaned of 
hulls, ground, stored in pottery jars and used as 
meal. Sometimes the unground seed would be 
used for porridge. 

Perhaps the most valuable of the desert growths, 
not only to the Indian, but in later days to the 
white traveler as well, was the bisnaga, whose in- 
terior is a mass of white pulp, full of moisture. By 
cutting off the top of the plant and mashing the 
pulp, enough watery juices may be obtained to 
sustain life. 

Both Mexicans and Americans cut the pulp into 
cubes, and by boiling it in sugar and other mate- 
rials make a delicious sweetmeat out of it. An 
enterprising Phoenix confectioner has made a na- 
tional reputation by crystallizing and converting it 
into a delicacy de luxe. 

The Mojave Indians, after scraping out the in- 
terior of the bisnaga, used the shell for a cooking 
vessel. They would fill it with water and boil a 
desert rat or rabbit therein with the use of hot 
stones. 

Did the aborigines in Arizona fare well gastro- 
nomically? Except in times of war we may 
assume with reasonable safety that the thrifty ones 
at least did. Do you think you could get along if 
invited to dine with a cliff dweller's family, in Mon- 
tezuma's Castle, for instance, and sat down to 
something like this: 



ARIZONA PLANT LIFE 435 

Grass seed puree 

Quail broiled on the spit 

Roasted Agave ends 

Stewed Antelope 

Beans Squash 

Corn cakes 

Dried prickly pears Pine nuts 

Naturally it is not to be expected that Mrs. Cliff- 
dweller arranged her menu in just this order, but 
as Mr. Cliff dweller sat squatting before his pottery 
bowl eating elegantly with his fingers, assisted by 
a piece of corn cake for a scoop, he did pretty well; 
so did his descendants, the Hopis, before the white 
men exterminated the deer and antelope; so did 
the Indians of the San Pedro valley and the White 
Mountains. Remember how they fed Fray Marcos 
on quail and other delicacies. 

All of the material joys of living are not with 
him who sells soap or nails, or keeps books all day 
and goes home to corn beef and cabbage and to 
sleep, not under the starry vault of heaven, but in 
a stuffy nine by ten bedroom, and imagines, there- 
fore, that he is civilized. 



Chapter XXVIII 
SOME ARIZONA BEASTS AND BIRDS 

UPON first view the wilds of Arizona seem 
destitute enough of animal life. However, 
if one motors in the desert country, not too 
far from water, say in the Gila Valley, or along 
foothill creeks like the Tonto or East Verde, he 
will not go far without seeing a cottontail skurry 
across the road ahead of him, a covey of quail fly 
by from somewhere near at hand, or a long-legged 
jack rabbit start up from behind a clump of sage- 
brush or creosote bush and, with prodigious 
bounds, disappear into the distance. 

If your motor trip be confined to the desert, and 
it is summer, it will be the brownish ground squir- 
rel that will be observed the oftenest. He is a spry 
little chap, about the size of a chipmunk, and 
always seems to be in the act of getting back to 
his hole as fast as legs can carry him. 

In the mountains what you will be most apt to 
see will be the gray squirrel of the rocks, the chip- 
munk or, on an upland plain, colonies of fat 
prairie dogs. 

While the habitat of the ground squirrel is con- 
fined to the desert and the prairie dogs to the high 
plateaus, both the cottontail and the jack rabbit 
are found throughout the entire state, in the cool 

436 



SOME ARIZONA BEASTS AND BIRDS 437 

mountains as well as the hot valleys of the south. 
The one part these rabbits seem to play in nature's 
scheme of things is to provide fresh meat for the 
carnivora of their neighborhood. 

The coyote is particularly fond of rabbits, and, 
though he seldom, if ever, gets a jack on a straight- 
away run, he will often pick up a cottontail as it 
skurries from bush to bush. El Coyote is not fini- 
cal about his meals. When he can't get a rabbit 
he will take almost anything in the way of meat he 
can find, savory or unsavory, or, if nothing better 
may be found on the menu, will make out with a 
piece of dried prickly pear fruit. John Van Dyke 
well calls him the hobo of the desert, for from his 
seedy, moth-eaten aspect, as well as from his im- 
pudent manners and vagrant craftiness, he well 
deserves the name. 

His yelp is distinctive as everything else con- 
cerning him. If you are camping out on the desert 
or foothill, and there has been bacon or beef for 
supper, you may be sure El Coyote picked up the 
scent, even though a half mile away, by the time 
you had your frying pan fairly over the fire, and 
as soon as it is dark he, with perhaps a crony, will 
slip just outside the zone of your fire light, then 
suddenly your ears will be smitten with a yipping, 
eerie howl — a "Yip-yip-yip-e-ow-i-i-i ! ! !" which 
rises to a shrill falsetto that is little short of appal- 
ling the first time one hears it. Two coyotes can 
sound like a score, and, oh, the nerve-racking dole- 
fulness of their yowling ! 

If the coyote is a hobo, his rival in vagrancy, the 



438 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

skunk, is a bandit. No member of Villa's gang 
ever entered a town on a looting expedition with 
more impudent assurance than, on a moonlight 
night, a skunk will swagger, self-invited, into your 
camp. He pays not the least attention to you as, 
awakening from your slumbers, you rise up on 
your cot and look at him. 

He noses around your bread-box and sack of 
bacon with an air of ownership that is almost 
heart-breaking. He knows you are afraid to shoot 
him, and you can say, "Scat!" till you are black in 
the face; he only wiggles his tail in awful menace. 
Even if, upon his exit, at what seems a safe dis- 
tance from the camp, you succeed in shooting him, 
he still gets even with you. 

One word about the hydrophobia skunk. There 
is, of course, no special variety of skunk whose 
bite would convey rabbles. It is undoubtedly true, 
though, that skunks sometimes contract hydro- 
phobia, and pass it on to humans by biting them. 
It is also true that owing to their habits of prowl- 
ing about camp at night, a sleeping camper would 
be more in danger from a bite from a skunk than 
from any other animal, but it is easy enough to 
guard against this danger by sleeping on a cot or 
in a wagon or car, rather than to make one's bed 
on the ground. Also, one might go camping in 
Arizona for a year and never see a skunk. The 
danger is about the same as it would be from being 
struck by lightning in New York or Chicago. 

The fox, like both the coyote and the badger, is 
found in desert and mountain. When in the low- 



SOME ARIZONA BEASTS AND BIRDS 439 

lands, at least, he prefers to live fairly close to civ- 
ilization. The increased hazard of a farmer with 
a shotgun, plus chicken, he prefers to a hole in a 
more isolated section with a diet confined to 
ground squirrels and desert rats. 

Before the white man came, along many of the 
Arizona streams were to be found not only rac- 
coons, but beaver. Now 'coons are scarce and 
beaver almost never seen. A pair at least of the 
latter lived for a while near the Granite Reef dam 
of Salt River, and trees showing the marks of 
beavers' teeth are common along the Arizona 
canal. Badgers are occasionally found both in the 
desert and in the foothills. 

The wildcat is the fiercest hunter of all of the 
carnivora of the state. Wild flesh or tame — he 
takes them both. He will stalk a cottontail or a 
quail with even greater skill than his domesticated 
cousin. The fattened turkey raised by the desert 
farmer he enjoys quite as much as you or I, and 
in the mountains, lodgings near a goat or sheep 
ranch offer possibilities of gastronomic bliss that 
even the dangers of the herder's gun can scarcely 
dim. 

The largest of the predator\^ animals of Arizona 
is the mountain lion. He dwells in the mountains, 
sleeping in some sequestered canyon or hole in the 
rock by day and at night stalking the range calf 
or colt, when one blow of his strongly muscled 
paw will bring down his quarry. The lion is usu- 
ally hunted with the aid of a pack of hounds, 
which, once on a hot trail, have little trouble in 



440 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

getting him up a tree. Cowboys occasionally suc- 
ceed in roping him, and consider him a good deal 
of a coward, but no one can deny his strength or 
muscular grace. 

There are still a few bears in Arizona. Those 
that are left are found in the more remote high- 
lands; a few in the White Mountains, a few on the 
Navajo reservation; in the Kaibab National Forest, 
north of the Canyon, and occasionally on the Mo- 
gollon Mesa. Most of them are black or brown, 
but occasionally even a silver-tip is seen. 

Up to 1860 or '70 antelopes grazed over nearly 
all of the country now known as Arizona, and, 
though preferring the grassy uplands, made them- 
selves at home on the desert as well. In different 
places on the northern plateau, bands of them were 
seen as late as 1885. They could get along on very 
little water, and if grass ran short, made out on 
brush and the tender shoots of trees. Mesquite 
beans were an ideal food for them. In a land of 
Indians and mountain lions, the antelopes' insur- 
ance against early mortality lay in their keenness 
of scent and fleetness of foot, but, though they 
could cope very well with their early enemies, 
when the white man with his Winchester rifle ar- 
rived, he all but exterminated these beautiful 
creatures. 

However, in sequestered spots, in Yavapai, Coco- 
nino and Mojave counties, there are a few left 
which are carefully guarded by the game wardens. 

There also remain a few mountain sheep, which 
keep to the drier and more isolated highlands. 



SOME ARIZONA BEASTS AND BIRDS 441 

Groups as large as fifteen or twenty are occa- 
sionally observed in the mountains of Pinal and 
Yuma counties, as well as in some of the moun- 
tains of the northern counties. 

The mule or black-tailed deer has survived better 
than the antelope, probably for the reason that it 
is more natural for him to keep to cover. He loves 
the solitude of the mountain canyon, grown thick 
with chaparral, where a traveler might pass 
within a hundred yards of his hiding place without 
suspecting his presence. 

White-tailed deer may also be found in different 
parts of the state. 

Arizona now has wise, protective game laws, 
under which elk, mountain sheep and antelope 
may not be hunted at all, and deer only from Oc- 
tober 1st to November 1st, with a bag limit of one 
deer with horns. 

In 1913, under the direction of Dr. W. D. Horni- 
day, a band of elk was brought into the state from 
Jackson's Hole, Wyoming. They are now ranging 
south of Winslow, below the rim along Chevelon 
Creek, where there is plenty of food. A second 
shipment was brought into the state in 1918. 

BIRDS 

Ornithologists, when considering the birds of 
Arizona, divide the state into three sections. The 
Lower Sonoran zone includes the lowlands of the 
south and west, most of the Little Colorado coun- 
try and the Painted Desert. The Upper Sonoran 



442 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

zone takes in the northeast and northwest corners 
of the state, as well as the foothills in the central 
part. The transitional zone embraces the higher 
plateaus and mountains. Each of these districts 
has its own distinctive birds, although in rare cases 
the same bird, like the phainopepla and the 
mourning dove, will be found in all three sections. 

Limited space will permit mention of only the 
most conspicuous of our feathered aviators. Be- 
ginning with the king of them all, we introduce 
the splendid golden eagle, a much more noble bird 
than the bald eagle, which is used to typify the 
nation. His plumage is blackish brown, with neck 
feathers more golden and a tail partially mixed 
with white. They are found in the mountain re- 
gions in the north and eastern parts of the state, 
where their size, strength and beauty in flight 
make them objects of the greatest admiration to 
the Indian, who endows them with supernatural 
powers. Both the Hopis and the Navajos rob the 
nest of the young, keeping them in captivity to 
supply feathers for personal adornment or for 
ceremonials. The bald eagle is also occasionally 
seen in the highlands of the state. 

To most summer visitors in Arizona the buzzard 
will be remembered as the desert's conspicuous 
bird. At close range he is repulsive in habit and 
ungainly in movement, but once on the wing, he 
will soar hour after hour against the pale blue sky, 
the personification of grace. A lift of a wing and 
he mounts upward till he becomes but a dot in the 
sky; a swoop, and again he is the perfect aero- 



SOME ARIZONA BEASTS AND BIRDS 443 

plane, moving without waste of energy or awk- 
wardness of movement — the untiring master of 
his art. 

Quite a different bird on the wing is the hawk, 
though he flies as gracefully, he keeps at it with 
less persistence. After a flight of a half hour or so 
there is apt to be an abrupt drop to the ground 
with a movement much quicker than the buzzard's, 
and when he rises, there will be a mouse or other 
animal or bird in his talons. 

Within the limits of the state are to be found 
most of the western hawks, and while some, by 
reason of their raids on chicken yards, are a pest 
to the farmer, other varieties are most decidedly 
his benefactors. 

The Cooper and the little sharp-shinned hawk 
are the worst poultry raiders, while the Harris, the 
zone-tailed, and the Swainson feed almost entirely 
upon rodents. George Wharton James gives a 
good rule for the hunter to follow when he says: 
"No hawk should be shot which displays red 
feathers on shoulder or tail." 

The owl, most in evidence in the southern coun- 
try, is the little burrowing owl, that takes up his 
dwelling in fox or badger holes, and apparently 
has no objection to renting out a portion of his 
quarters to a gopher, snake or even a rattler. 

A still smaller owl is the tiny elf, which is no 
bigger than a finch, who builds his nest in de- 
serted woodpecker holes in the giant cacti. 

In marked contrast to the elf is the great western 
horned owl, who is both fierce and destructive. 



444 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

and is strong enough to kill not only poultry, but 
squirrels and skunks. In the fall of the year the 
mournful hoot of these nocturnal birds may be 
heard in many a mountain canyon, and must send 
shivers down the spines of whatever rabbits there 
are within the sound of their fear-inspiring tones. 

The most unique bird in Arizona is the chap- 
arral cock, or road runner. He is a slim, brownish 
bird, who never flies unless pursued, and then for 
only a few rods at a time, or when he uses his 
wings to lengthen a jump to the low branches of 
a tree. However, after one has seen him run, 
keeping ahead of a galloping horse with greatest 
ease, he can see that flying would be a rather su- 
perfluous accomplishment. Even more than for 
his running the chaparral cock is noted for his 
fighting qualities. He is the only feathered crea- 
ture known who has the nerve to attack a rattle- 
snake, and he will kill him, too; the lightning-like 
thrusts of his sharp beak being even quicker than 
a diamond-back's strike. Other hors d'oeuvre on 
his menu include lizards, grasshoppers and mice. 

There is no steadier resident of this part of the 
country than the common mourning dove. While 
he is seen in greater numbers during the summer 
months, even in coldest weather there are a good 
many about, and in the early morning hours, just 
before sunrise, he swells out his throat with the 
lament: "Oh! Cold! Cold! Cold!" and he is right 
about it. 

The Mexican ground dove is a tiny little fellow, 
but little over half as big as the mourner, and is 



SOME ARIZONA BEASTS AND BIRDS 445 

friendly enough to fly down in your door yard and 
join the chickens in their morning meal. In spite 
of his diminutive appearance he is not in the least 
a peace dove. In the spring rival tiny cocks will 
abuse and fight each other in a way that for a dove 
is nothing less than scandalous. 

But little larger than the Mexican is the Inca 
dove, the two birds so resembling each other that 
both are locally called Sonoran doves. 

The white wing is a real pigeon. He loves the 
hot weather, staying in Mexico during the winter, 
and when his distinctive and elaborate call is 
heard in the valleys of the Gila and the Salt it is a 
sign that the summer is not far away. He rarely 
ventures into the mountains. 

Arizona boasts of three distinct varieties of 
quail. The commonest is the Gambel — a crested, 
beautiful bird, marked much like the California 
valley quail, but with less brown or buff along his 
sides. The Gambel may be found not only in the 
desert countrj^ where in such districts as the Salt 
and Gila River valleys, with an abundance of food, 
he multiplies prodigiousl3% but also in the moun- 
tains. To the lover of birds there is no cheerier 
music than the call of the quail mother to her 
young — their gentle conversational notes as they 
busy themselves in search of food, or the warning 
note of the cock as he does sentry duty on the limb 
of a convenient tree. 

The scaled quail, a bluish-gray colored bird, 
with a small tuft of whitish feathers on the top of 
his head, is rather common in the southeastern 



446 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

part of the state. The Mearns or fool quail is 
so called from his too confiding disposition, allow- 
ing himself to be almost stepped on before tak- 
ing flight. His plumage is handsome and striking, 
but the markings on his face are decidedly clown- 
like. They are found, among other places, north of 
the Grand Canyon. 

There are more wild turkeys in Arizona now 
(1918) than there have been for years, being most 
plentiful in the White Mountains. Game wardens 
are now trapping them in the Apache National 
Forest, so that they may be reintroduced into their 
old haunts in the mountains in the southeastern 
part of the state. 

Of all the song birds of the Sonoran zone, to the 
thrasher easily belongs first place. If there is a 
lovelier song in all the world that comes from 
feathered throat than the liquid, golden flood of 
these gray Carusos of the desert, we have never 
heard it. The lady next door likens its music to 
the glittering notes of a master violinist. What- 
ever it is, it is love music — a "You-and-I-only-in- 
all-the-world" enchantment, that brings spring to 
the pulse and youth and love to the heart. 

Do not think that in thus honoring the thrasher 
we have forgotten the mocker. The mocker is a 
bird of delight, and he sings from a throat of gold 
and a full heart — but oh ! his fatal versatility! You 
listen while he pours forth a song that almost 
breaks your heart for beauty, then he stops and 
imitates the harsh notes of the cactus wren, or the 
call of a flycatcher. 



SOME ARIZONA BEASTS AND BIRDS 447 

If Melba would pause in the midst of her 
"Addio," from Boheme, and trill a phrase from 
"Turkey in the Straw" you might be vastly amused, 
but you could never take her seriously again. So 
with the mocker — he is frivolous. 

While the thrasher's season of song begins in the 
south, in the last of February, and the mocker per- 
haps a month later, we love the lark because he is 
the first real singer of the year. You can hear his 
cheery notes with which he greets the sun all the 
late winter through. 

The oriole is a summer bird appearing in the val- 
leys to the south as soon as the ash trees are fully 
in leaf, announcing himself with a little bar of 
music full of quaint beauty. You will probably 
hear his song weeks before you see him. Later, 
however, when your figs and apricots are ripe, you 
are able to admire his dazzling cloth of gold with- 
out any trouble whatever. But unless he brings 
too many of his family with him you are willing 
to sacrifice some of your fruit for the distinction 
of his elegant company. 

An exceptionally companionable bird of the 
Lower Sonoran zone is the red-winged black bird. 
You find him all through the Salt River valley, fre- 
quenting, especially, alfalfa fields and city lawns, 
where there is water about. During the winter 
they congregate in great flocks, and, like most 
birds, are at their best in the mating time in the 
spring. It is then that the red epaulets on the 
shoulders of the male are the brightest, and the 
sheen of his black coat the most brilliant. How he 



448 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

does preen and strut before his lady, and his call 
of "Ok-ah-lee-ah!" is certainly the epitome of 
good spirits. 

The yellow-headed black birds make even a 
more striking appearance than the red-wings. 
Their usual habitat is the swamps and tules, but 
occasionally after rains they are seen in distant 
localities, like Tucson and Phoenix, where their 
discordant notes are as unmusical as their plu- 
mage is beautiful. 

Of all of Arizona's long list of handsome birds, 
including the pyrrhuloxia, the bunting and the 
tanager, there is none more beautiful than the 
Arizona cardinal. Though not common in the Salt 
River valley and other desert portions of the 
Lower Sonoran zone, he may be often seen in can- 
yons in the lower foothills, like that at Castle Hot 
Springs, or about the Roosevelt Lake, where he is 
the admiration of all beholders. 

When we reach the mountains practically all of 
the lowland birds have disappeared. Here our 
choicest song birds are the canyon wrens, whose 
rippling, joyous music, as they rollick down the 
scale, is a delight to the heart. They are fearless, 
friendly birds. A pair of them built a nest on a 
beam in our study, rearing a family within eight 
feet of our clattering typewriter. 

Another favorite mountain bird is the black- 
headed grosbeak, who is handsome in appearance 
and has a song both sweet and clear. 

Humming birds are found all through the moun- 
tains. Indeed, altogether in the state, there are 



SOME ARIZONA BEASTS AND BIRDS 449 

fourteen distinct species, and only eighteen species 
in all the United States. 

The hobo of bird land is the blue jay. In Ari- 
zona he lives exclusively in the mountains. If we 
are camping, the Woodhouse jay, a non-crested 
bird, who dresses in gray-blue, will nonchalantly 
drop in on us almost before the provision box is 
opened. 

The first thing he says is: "I'll stay to lunch if 
you don't mind," and in his anxiety to assure you 
that he is thoroughly at home, he will take the 
bacon as it sizzles in the frying pan — if you give 
him half a chance. 

The dark blue, crested jay is also often seen in 
the mountains. He is a handsomer bird than the 
Woodhouse and with better manners. 

Among the few birds that inhabit both the 
mountains and the lowlands is the western robin, 
who, if the season is rainy, is apt to winter in the 
warm valleys of the southern part of the state, 
going into the mountains for the summer. 

The elegant phainopepla, with his gentlemanly 
suit of black and white and neat helmet, also is a 
mountain summer visitor, who spends the late 
winter season in the valleys. 

The busiest birds in the mountains are the wood- 
peckers, after the acorns are ripe. They first bore 
holes in the trunk of a dead pine tree, then each 
gets an acorn and drives it into his hole — not, as 
the uninformed might suppose, to eat the acorn 
afterwards, that would be too simple — later a 
worm comes to eat the acorn, then the woodpecker 
returns to eat the worm. 

29 



450 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

POISONOUS CREATURES 

When, thirty years ago, we were bouncing on a 
stage coach seat en route for Phoenix, Arizona, the 
tedium of the trip was relieved by the conversa- 
tion of our seat-mate. 

The subject under discussion was the various 
venomous creatures of the state. 

"Now when you git to the Lemon House," said 
the Arizonan, "and you take off your shoes to go 
to bed you wanta put 'em tops down. If you don't, 
by mornin' they'll be half full of them centipedes. 
You see, they crawl in after dark to get away from 
the night air." 

He "bit off the end of a plug of Climax and con- 
tinued: "The most interestin' sight, though, is to 
see one of them 'ere fur-bearin' tj'^rantulars a-sittin' 
in his web in the parlor winder a-catchin' flying 
scorpions. They charm 'em by sort of whistling at 
'em. And speaking of rattlesnakes! Why, kid, 
they is that common and sizable in Arizony that 
the Injuns cut 'em up in four-foot lengths and sell 
'em for cord wood." 

The silence that ensued was broken by a timid- 
looking lady on the opposite seat, who asked the 
monologist if they had to split up the largest 
pieces to get them into the stove. 

At the outset, let us assure any stranger contem- 
plating a visit to the state that the man exagger- 
ated! There are rattlesnakes in Arizona — eleven 
varieties, to be exact — ranging all the way from the 
big western diamond-backs, who will, if thor- 



SOME ARIZONA BEASTS AND BIRDS 451 

oughly nourished, attain a length of seven feet, 
down to the horned rattler, about a third of his 
length. This particular variety is locally known 
as a "Side-winder" on account of a peculiar looping 
motion it takes on, which moves the creature in 
an oblique direction. His head looks not unlike 
medieval pictures of the devil, and his character 
rather carries out the verisimilitude. 

Still, to give the devil his due, it must be ad- 
mitted that rattlesnakes usually are busy minding 
their own business, which does not include hunt- 
ing down humans; and all of them are very apt 
to rattle before they strike, which should speak 
largely to their credit. 

Personally, we are inclined to think that the 
rattlesnake family has a more severe indictment 
against us than we have against it. Frequently, 
after a member of the species has apprized us of 
his presence by an apologetic rattle, we have slain 
him for his pains. More than that, we once did 
one a serious injustice. We were raising young 
turkeys, and after missing one or two we found 
a rattler near their yard with a bulge in his mid- 
dle that was more than suspicious. After executing 
on this circumstantial evidence, a post-mortem 
proved the bulge to be a gopher. We had sacri- 
ficed a friend ! 

The only man we ever knew who was killed by 
a rattlesnake was a gentleman who claimed to be 
a snake charmer, and to prove it, pulled off a 
corner of a screen over a box of diamond-backs in 
Barnes & Benham's old curio store, at Phoenix, 



452 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

and attempted to stroke one on the head. They 
buried the man the next day. 

When tramping on the desert or in the moun- 
tains there is little danger from rattlesnakes if one 
minds his step, and when climbing over rocks one 
never puts his hand in a place he can't see. Al- 
though there are few more venomous creatures in 
the world than a rattlesnake, its bite is not neces- 
sarily fatal. When a victim is struck, a ligature 
should be placed above the wound at once. If 
bitten on the finger, ligature only the finger; if on 
the hand or arm, or on the foot or shank, place 
the ligature above the elbow or knee, where there 
is but one bone in the limb. Do not leave a liga- 
ture in place for more than twenty minutes, lest 
mortification sets in. 

As quickly as possible after being struck, but 
only after applying the ligature, cut across the 
fang-punctures for about one inch, both ways, 
deeper than the fangs penetrate. If bitten on the 
finger, cut to the bone at least lengthways. Bleed 
the wound thoroughly and rapidly. After good 
bleeding, wash the wound thoroughly with potas- 
sium permanganate, in enough water to produce 
a deep wine color. This chemical destroys all 
venom with which it comes in contact. If no water 
is at hand, use it dry or with saliva. Now the liga- 
ture may be removed, and if fainting spells of the 
victim indicate its need, a hypodermic dose of 
strychnine may be given. Naturally, if a physician 
can be obtained he should be sent for at once. 

The only other poisonous snakes in Arizona are 



SOME ARIZONA BEASTS AND BIRDS 453 

the Sonoran coral snake and the annulated snake. 
The coral snake is slender, seldom above two feet 
in length, and is found in central and southern 
Arizona. It is marked with black, yellow and red 
bands encircling the body, the black always bor- 
dered on both sides by yellow. The annulated 
snake, though rare, has been seen in the southern 
part of the state. It is rather slender, about two 
and a half feet long, with poison fangs in the back 
of the mouth. Bites from all poisonous snakes 
should be treated as prescribed for rattlers. 

There is a popular conception outside the state 
that the Gila monster is almost as dangerous as a 
rattlesnake. This is pure libel. His bite is dan- 
gerous, but not deadly, the poison glands being in 
the chin. While sluggish, he has been known to 
turn and snap with surprising agility, and then to 
hang on to what he has bitten with the tenacity of 
a bull dog. It is when the jaws are thus fastened 
that the poisonous saliva flows from the swollen 
glands of the chin and is absorbed into the wound. 
Charles T. Vorhies of the University of Arizona, 
who has made an extensive study of Arizona's 
poisonous creatures, reports that he can find no 
authenticated case of death caused by the Gila 
monster bite in humans, or even very severe in- 
jury. When fully grown, the Gila monster is four- 
teen to twenty inches long, and his salmon-pink, 
beaded skin is marked with what a fashion paper 
might call a tasteful design worked out in black 
spots. His feet look uncannily like hands, and he 
has an unpleasant habit of hissing when angered. 



454 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

In captivity his sluggishness seems to increase. 
His favorite food is eggs, raw or boiled, and when 
fasting he is said to live off of his fat tail, which 
grows more and more attenuated until he takes 
up eating again. The females lay from six to thir- 
teen eggs in July and August, burying them from 
three to five inches in the sand. In the winter the 
monster hibernates, burying itself. Aside from the 
Gila monster and a closely related species found 
in Mexico, absolutely no other lizards are poi- 
sonous. 

Next to the Gila monster the largest lizard to be 
found in Arizona is the Chuckawala, which is 
about twelve inches long, broMmish in color, with 
a big, broad head. When young he is olive col- 
ored, spotted with black on his back. He is seen 
most often in rocky foothill country. 

The most beautiful lizard in the state is the 
Collar lizard, beautifully mottled in green, with a 
collar of black, with occasional markings of red. 
Including his long, slim tail, he will often attain a 
length of about a foot. Like the Chuckawala, he 
is usually found in the foothills. 

In spite of our companion of the stage coach, of 
course scorpions do not fly, but they can scuttle 
along a wall at a gait that makes flying almost a 
superfluous accomplishment, also they are not apt 
to be found in hotel parlors — a deserted miner's 
cabin in the foothills would be a more likely place. 
The scorpion carries a lance at the end of its ab- 
domen, and throws it up and forward over the 
back, striking with stinging force. Though it is 



SOME ARIZONA BEASTS AND BIRDS 455 

always ready for business, it does but little more 
damage than the similar weapon of the yellow 
jacket. The whip scorpion, when disturbed, gives 
off an odor resembling that of vinegar, and in 
Texas is called the Vinegarone. It is entirely 
harmless. In Arizona the name is sometimes ap- 
plied to a spider-like looking creature, which the 
Mexicans call the Mata Venado (kill deer). The 
Mata Venado has an abdomen about seven-eighths 
of an inch long, shaped something like a cater- 
pillar, with a head the shape of a big apple seed. 
Its spider-like legs and body are somewhat hairy 
and cream colored. This nocturnal animal is 
greatly feared by the Mexican labor population, 
but observers have allowed themselves to be bitten 
without suffering anything worse than a passing 
pain from the wound. 

Centipedes, like other Arizona venomous crea- 
tures, do not make a practice of tracking down 
humans. If you want to see one, you must look 
him up. Under a board that has lain long in a 
damp place would be a likely place to find one; 
or, if you are in the mountains, under a bowlder. 
The mountain variety is larger than those found 
in the valleys, attaining a length from seven to ten 
inches, and with their greenish scales and many 
wriggling legs, they are not pleasant objects. The 
poison glands in a centipede are within the bases 
of the front pair of legs. Vorhies reports two cases 
of centipede bite; both were painful; one was de- 
scribed as feeling like a hot needle at the instant 
of infliction. Neither case was more severe than 
the pain following a honey bee's sting. 



456 THE STORY OF ARIZONA 

The tarantula, hairy, brownish-black in color, 
like all spiders, is to some extent poisonous, and, 
though his reputation is worse than his bite, it is 
no better than his looks. In full grown ugliness, 
including his legs, he is about the size of a ten- 
year-old child's hand, and always looks as though 
he needed a shave. Though his appearance would 
condemn him in any court, like the centipede, he 
seems quite as anxious to get away from you as 
you are to avoid him. From Dr. Vorhies' investi- 
gations it would seem that while the tarantula's 
bite was more severe than the sting of a scorpion, 
it by no means need inspire terror. In the most 
serious cases on record the local pain lasted but 
a few days, though complete recovery took some 
little while longer. 

No account of Arizona's curious creatures which 
omitted the Agassiz's land tortoise would be com- 
plete. In size his short, broad shell is about nine 
by seven inches. In spite of aquatic traditions, he 
can't abide dampness, and if in captivity his dwell- 
ing place is not warm and dry, he will soon die. 
When found wandering over the desert mountains 
he looks about as suited to his environment as an 
oyster would in the same locality. 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 

ARMSTRONG AND Thornbek. Western Wild Flowers. 

Bancroft^ Hubert Howe. Arizona and New Mexico, 

Barrett, S. M. (Editor). Geronimo's Story of His Life. 
Berard, Father. Ethnologic Dictionary of Navajos. 
Navajo Dictionary. 

Bolton, Herbert. Spanish Explorations of the Southwest. 

BouRKE, John G. On the Border with Crook. 

An Apache Campaign. 

Brown, James Cabell. Calabasas. 

Bureau of Ethnology Reports. See Monographs by Powell, 
Stevenson, Mindeleff, Fewkes, Gushing, etc. 

Casteneda^s Narratiat; of the Coronado Expedition. 
(Translated by Parker Winship.) In Bureau of Ethnol- 
ogy Reports. 

Cremony, John C. Life Among the Apaches. 

CouES, Elliott (Editor and Translator). On the Trail of a 
Spanish Pioneer. (The Diary of Padre Garces.) 

Dellenbaugh, F. S. The Romance of the Colorado River. 

DuTTON, Clarence E. Tertiary Histoiy of the Grand Canyon 
District. 

Eldridge, Zoeth Skinner. Beginnings of San Francisco. 

Farish, Thomas Edwin. History of Arizona. 

Fewkes, Jesse Walter. Various Monographs in Bureau of 
Ethnology Reports. 

Forbes, Robert H. Bulletins of Arizona Agricultural Experi- 
ment Stations. 

Grey, Zane. The Last of the Great Plainsmen. 

The Rainbow Trail. 

Hall, Sharlot M. Cactus and Pine. 

Hinton, R. J. Handbook to Arizona. 

Hough, Walter. Prehistoric Ruins of the Gila and Salt 
Rivers. (In Report of Smithsonian Institution.) 

457 



458 BIBLIOGRAPHY 

Howard, Gen. 0. 0. My Life and Experiences Among Our 

Hostile Indians. 
Ives, Lieut. J. C. Explorations of the Colorado River of 

the West. 
James, George Wharton. Indians of the Painted Desert 

Region. 

Arizona, the Wonderland. 

House Blessing Ceremony. 

Indian Basketry. 

Indian Blankets and Their Makers. 

In and Aromid the Grand Canyon. 

Reclaiming the Arid West. 

The Grand Canyon of Arizona. 

Our American Wonderlands. 

The Indians' Secrets of Health. 

King, Gen. Charles. Campaigning with Crook. 

Sunset Crossing. 

Lewis, Alfred Henry. Wolfville Stories. 

LuMMis, Charles Fletcher. The Land of Poco Tiempo. 

Strange Corners of Our Country. 

Volumes of Land of Sunshine and Out West. 

Matthews, Washington. The Night Chant. 

Navajo Lepends. 

McClintock, James H. Arizona the Youngest State. 

MowRY, Sylvester. Arizona and Sonora. 

Muir, John. Our National Parks. 

Noble, F. L. Shinumo Quadrangle, Grand Canyon. 

Pattie, James 0. Personal Narrative. 

Powell, John Wesley. Canyons of the Colorado. 

Explorations of the Canyons of the Colorado River. 

Prudden, T. Mitchell. On the Plateaus of the Southwest. 
PuMPELLY, Ralph. Across America and Asia. 
Robinson, Will H. The Man from Yesterday. 
Ryan, Marah Ellis. Love Letters of an Indian. 
Simpson, Lieut. J. H. Expedition Against the Navajos. 
White Stewart Edward. Arizona Nights' Entertainment. 
Wright, Harold Bell. When a Man's a Man. 



DEC 231949 




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